Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[kamikat]

Jupitersdarling, wow, thanks for the photoshop help. Changing the shoulder area/sleeve head made all the difference in the world.

 

[Lady Day]

Gee, you look so happy to be wearing that dress

I think the dress looks nice on you, but those sleeves are a bit extreme. Ive always had to trim down the monster sleeves on my 40s numbers. They can be just out of this world.

I think the fit works great on you, maybe add an inch or two to the bust for a more blouse like fit.

If you do make it again, Id recommend a heavier fabric if you are going to make it that form fitting, or a fabric with more drape if you add an inch or two more ease.

Maybe its the pattern? Dont give up on 40s fashions, I think they work for you!

LD

 

[kamikat]

Gee, you look so happy to be wearing that dress

I think the dress looks nice on you, but those sleeves are a bit extreme. Ive always had to trim down the monster sleeves on my 40s numbers. They can be just out of this world.

I think the fit works great on you, maybe add an inch or two to the bust for a more blouse like fit.

If you do make it again, Id recommend a heavier fabric if you are going to make it that form fitting, or a fabric with more drape if you add an inch or two more ease.

Maybe its the pattern? Dont give up on 40s fashions, I think they work for you!

LD

You can always tell when I think something doesn't look good on me.
Adding some to the bust is a good idea. I usually don't have to do a FBA with 50's patterns. I've gotten out of the habit. It started out a size 14, so maybe another inch of ease overall will help.

 

[JupitersDarling]

Jupitersdarling, wow, thanks for the photoshop help. Changing the shoulder area/sleeve head made all the difference in the world.

Sleeve head! I knew there had to be a term for that area, but nothing was coming to me!

y'know, Lady Day brings up a good point. If you give yourself more bust room, it may ease the fit on the sleeves and shoulders and then there would be no need to lengthen the shoulder. (you might still wear shoulder pads though! ) I think you could pull off 40's styles just fine. I rather like this dress, hope you'll finish it or try it again!

but those sleeves are a bit extreme. Ive always had to trim down the monster sleeves on my 40s numbers. They can be just out of this world.

lol They are pretty wide in the photoshop, aren't they? Keep in mind it's a shoop! I thought the sleeves might could hang a bit more perpendicularly, which meant the length went out quite aways, but it's not necessarily what it would look exactly like. Again, the dress may do just fine using pads and more bust room to get a similar but less extreme silhouette. Time for more muslins!

 

[Snookie]

ok, ladies, I'm trying to dip my toe into 40's styles again. I'm just not sure they work for me, though. This dress isn't complete (just pinned up the front, no cuffs, not hemmed, no contrast collar facing) and I don't think I will finish it. What would you suggest I change on the pattern next time to make it more flattering?

Cute dress! I think you should finish this one, too - obviously the next one will be better, but this is certainly good enough to be worn.

I don't have much to add, I just wanted to mention that the waist seam looks like it hits you in a good spot (the skirt join, not the empire seam)- when you do the FBA, try to keep it in the same place. Make the waist/girdle section smaller if you have to.

 

[Snookie]

Did you grade this from a 32B? I'm in complete awe if you did.

 

[Snookie]

Ooh! How did those fit and go together? I've got that pattern and just am waiting for the time to try it. I'm an experienced seamstress, but I've never fit trousers before. Any tips would be great!

I used the new multi-size pattern that she has. The pattern for my size seemed really big, but since I was cutting straight into my real fabric, I didn't mind having the extra to play with. I think I ended up taking out 4" from the waist, 3" from the hips, and 2 1/2" from the bust. I also cut a huge amount off the hem - maybe 4" or 5"? (I'm 5'6") The garment went together VERY quickly, once I had the pants portion stitched up I turned it inside out and pinned out the excess, I was able to remove all the extra from the sideseams, the dart placement still looked decent. The back rise is a little short for sitting, but not enough for me to worry about.

The top of the overalls was a little more tricky, it has a funny bust dart and self-facing at the top. I thought the facing was too much work and that it would be easier and cleaner to line it, so I cut an extra piece, and just cut the facing off the top (leaving seam allowance). I'm happy with that - I think it's more sturdy with the lining and looks better. Sandwich the straps in the neckline seam.

I did a long side zip, I was in a hurry and couldn't be bothered with buttons. I also just stitched the straps to the back, with mock buttons on top.

The waist seam might be a little high if you have a long torso - I'm very short-waisted, and it fit me perfectly (it hits 2 1/2" above my bellybutton).

It took me only about 10 hours, that's REALLY fast for me. If I make any slacks in the future, I will probably use this pattern.

 

[LelaViavonie]

Kimikat
I dont know much about sewing.. but I think u should finish the dress.. u wear it very well
I think the ladies advice would be perfect for the dress! Cant wait to see the finished product

 

[Lauren]

I think it's totally cute. I'd second making a bit more room in the bust. The area that looks like pulling is the bust area, and over bust, and maybe a little at the shoulder. Looks like you just need a bit more room along that grading line from the places where I made these two red lines. You could even taper it off to nothing at the waist on the underarm grade line, but I'd say give it a little of the full width of the one that runs across the whole length, then you can just gather it in at the underbust gathers. I don't remember if that's the right bodice shape (I made this one early this year) but you get the idea.

I wouldn't say heavier fabric or anything... heavier fabrics would make the skirt not lay right for this period. If anything, I'd say use a crepe, but it's such a pain to work with. I made mine in a lightweight cotton and loved the weight, and I think yours looks great, too. It's a super cute dress, and I didn't even notice the pull at the underarm until someone else here pointed it out. But the point is, if you don't like the dress, then wear something you feel better in! I feel absolutely beyond frumpy in anything post 1941, so I totally get that.

 

[Lauren]

Oh, and when I say a bit more, I mean at most 1-1.5" total per side (mirrored 2"-3". I don't think you need more than that, and no more than 1/2" at the shoulder on each side.

 

[MissAmelina]

I am somewhat relieved to read that crepe is hard to work with as I am about to rip out my hair after fueding with the crepe dress I am currently making. And I too had the same appearance with the shoulders---shoulder pads and narrowing the seam allowance made a HUGE difference. Thanks for the tip!!

 

[goldwyn girl]

I have been looking on Craigs List for a dress form. But coming up empty, am I searching by the wrong name? Any suggestions ??

 

[Sickofitcindy]

Reply to Goldwyn Girl

Hi GG,
Have you tried freecycle? They have individual city sites on yahoo. At least in NYC, I've seen a lot of free ones available.

 

[goldwyn girl]

Sickofitcindy, thanks for the suggestion. There is a Las Vegas one.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

I have been looking on Craigs List for a dress form. But coming up empty, am I searching by the wrong name? Any suggestions ??

You've got the right name, but sometimes people don't know the term, and use the word "mannequin" instead.

 

[jtcarrey]

swimsuits

I have a question, someone gave me an old 40's (possibly??) swimsuit and I'd love to wear it, but I definately want to redo the lining, how should I go about doing this? Also, how can I tell the age of it just by it's look?

 

[goldwyn girl]

You've got the right name, but sometimes people don't know the term, and use the word "mannequin" instead.

Thank you, I will also try that.

 

[Mary]

Do what I always do, post photos of it in the tread called: Can you help me date this item?
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=10800

I have a question, someone gave me an old 40's (possibly??) swimsuit and I'd love to wear it, but I definately want to redo the lining, how should I go about doing this? Also, how can I tell the age of it just by it's look?

 

[Mary]

I actually have a question of my own. What fabics do you find easy to use and which ones lead their own lives?

I've heared silk is terribly hard. Is that true of everything silk and are different weaves, chiffon, charmeuse etc equally difficult? I'm sewing some french knickers and I want to have silk ones (of course!) but maybe it should wait till I'm more skilled. And what should I use for all patterns made for silk materials?

I also want to sew a coat and I'm thinking it'll be troublesome because the fabrics will be so thick. An suggestions what to think of?

I've just started my sewingclass today and I have to buy more patterns and fabrics and I find it hard to decide what to buy, especially since I have to buy fabrics online. Any tips or no-no's will be grately appreciated!

 

[LelaViavonie]

I actually have a question of my own. What fabics do you find easy to use and which ones lead their own lives?

I've heared silk is terribly hard. Is that true of everything silk and are different weaves, chiffon, charmeuse etc equally difficult? I'm sewing some french knickers and I want to have silk ones (of course!) but maybe it should wait till I'm more skilled. And what should I use for all patterns made for silk materials?

I also want to sew a coat and I'm thinking it'll be troublesome because the fabrics will be so thick. An suggestions what to think of?

I've just started my sewingclass today and I have to buy more patterns and fabrics and I find it hard to decide what to buy, especially since I have to buy fabrics online. Any tips or no-no's will be grately appreciated!

THat is a great question.. I have the same one!

I will be popping back in to see what the ladies say