Pre 1940s dress hats

[buler]

Thanks, guys. 1920's seems to be a more likely date range for this lid - The crest doesn't say E.A. Mallory & Sons, Inc. which is the header they were using during the time of the advertisement (think they switched to the Mallory Hat Co in 1919-1920). Also, the center crest emblem contains "Beaver Brush Finish" designation but it is unlikely that a beaver colour option from the 1909 ad would warrant its own sweatband punch (never seen a sweatband punch designation based on a colour option). So perhaps this is a later incarnation of that original "X Brush Finish" ad campaign.

Garrett, if you look at the ads in the mADness thread, you'll see the change from EA Mallory happen between 1917 and 1918. They seem to have only used the lower case, cursive, Mallory (like on your hat) in the late teens and switched to the capitalized Mallory in 1920. I'd guess your hat at 1917-1919.

Please ad it to the main Mallory thread when you get a chance. Thanks!

B

 

[Garrett]

I wonder if the earlier "Austrian Brush Finish" simply evolved into "Beaver Brush Finish" a decade or so later? By the 1920's the term may have been changed due to the war. If not then I'm curious how the felt/finish differed from Austrian Brush to Beaver Brush.

 

[Garrett]

Garrett, if you look at the ads in the mADness thread, you'll see the change from EA Mallory happen between 1917 and 1918. They seem to have only used the lower case, cursive, Mallory (like on your hat) in the late teens and switched to the capitalized Mallory in 1920. I'd guess your hat at 1917-1919.

Please ad it to the main Mallory thread when you get a chance. Thanks!

B

Awesome! Thanks, Bill and Steve

 

[mayserwegener]

I wonder if the earlier "Austrian Brush Finish" simply evolved into "Beaver Brush Finish" a decade or so later? By the 1920's the term may have been changed due to the war. If not then I'm curious how the felt/finish differed from Austrian Brush to Beaver Brush.

It's highly possible if it's from the time period Bill suggested. Now you need to find a Austrian Brush example (assuming they were marked).

 

[Dinerman]

Gimbel

 

[hatsRme]

What a find! Spectacular! Terrific photo montage, too, Dinerman.

 

[Joshbru3]

1880's/1890's Derby (part1)

1880's/1890's Derby

There is no makers tag under the sweatband, only a size tag. I believe the makers mark is printed on the liner, but I have never seen this one before. The derby has a very tight curl on the very short brim. The crown is very round and low and is very similar to other 1880's/1890's derbies that I own. The sweatband also has the very early slant stitching.

 

[Joshbru3]

1880's/1890's Derby (part2)

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Gorgeous derby, love the brim flange on those old western style ones.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

French early 1900's square crown bowler.

 

[Joshbru3]

Gorgeous derby, love the brim flange on those old western style ones.

Thank you very much :yo:

 

[Joshbru3]

French early 1900's square crown bowler.

I love the square crowned derbies. They are pretty hard to come by. I read somewhere in an old American Hatter issue that at one time, the square crowned derbies were referred to as "Coach" derbies to be worn by coach drivers. In the same ad they referred to very short and heavily "belled" top hats as coach hats as well.

 

[mayserwegener]

Here are a series of late 1920s Echter Borsalinos from the same Berlin hat shop (Max Eckard). The first and last are the same model but different sizes.

 

[mayserwegener]

Continued.

 

[tommyK]

Mayser, those are stunning! Such amazing preservation. I really like the liner on the second one. Does it seem a higher quality or just a liner variation? I realize it says "Qualita Superiore" like the others but it looks "extra special".

 

[mayserwegener]

Tommy, I think they are of the same quality but the second one is just a different color / finish (it's striking). The gold embossing(?) might be a factor. The third hat is in mint condition. It is hard to judge from photos. All three are beautiful.

 

[se couvrir]

I'm green with envy Steve! Superb.....

 

[mayserwegener]

Mayser Velour, probably late 1930s.

 

[mayserwegener]

S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Velour, probably late 1930s.

 

[mayserwegener]

P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin "Special Qualität" with "Auto Cape**", probably mid 1930s.

**More on "Auto Cape".

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?32103-German-amp-Austrian-Hutmachers&p=1930457&viewfull=1#post1930457