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Pre 1940s dress hats

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
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4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
WOW!! Steve, just unbelievably fantastic hats!! :eusa_clap:eusa_clap

This one takes the cake though.......JUST GORGEOUS

Mayser Velour, probably late 1930s.

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ofcoursemyhorse

Practically Family
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859
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United States
I love the square crowned derbies. They are pretty hard to come by. I read somewhere in an old American Hatter issue that at one time, the square crowned derbies were referred to as "Coach" derbies to be worn by coach drivers. In the same ad they referred to very short and heavily "belled" top hats as coach hats as well.

I think you're right I've seen a few old photos before from the period and I noticed some had the old stagecoach drivers wearing a square topped bowler.

That gold Mayser is something else. Bow work is perfectly executed.
 
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Joshbru3

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4,409
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Chicago, IL
Excellent!

+1!!

Might be early 1900's, but I would venture to say that it could date to the 1890's as well. I have a Howard derby that looks exactly like yours that I am fairly certain based on several factors is a late 1890's hat. The tall and round profile of the crown was very popular in the 1890's and then again in the 1912-18 period when crowns became very tall again. Coupled with the short brim/tall crown combo, early size sticker, and very small over-the-reed sweatband stitching tells me its pretty early. Great find! :eusa_clap
 

ofcoursemyhorse

Practically Family
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859
Location
United States
Thank you gents, I think you're right about the age Josh. It appears to be a pretty close profile match to your old Howard like you said.

Here's a close up of the front of the sweatband with some kind of wavy bit of fabric.

 
Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
Bancroft Genuine Beaver

Save for a Stetson 5X Clear Beaver circa 1940, this is the only pre-WWII beaver fur hat that I have owned or handled. The color is golden silver... much like 19th century top hats that I have seen behind glass. I will share photos in the Side By Side thread comparing this hat to the more common clear nutria longhair. They are similar in many ways, but the beaver fibers are longer and significantly softer. Interesting how different this felt is to the more elegant and refined European velour - long and flowing like the silver hair of an older Wild Bill Cody. American.

Very little marking to go on for era... United Hatters of NA label indicates pre-1934. I think 1920 might be a reasonable estimate. 2 1/2 brim, crown is very straight, here creased to 5", 2" rayon ribbon with boxy bow - not frayed. Liner is raw silk, taped to the body obscuring the manufacturer's tag - likely from a cleaning many years ago. Buler found this Ohio retailer who sold hats and furs... perhaps the source?

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Joshbru3

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4,409
Location
Chicago, IL

Superb! I saw that one on ebay as well. I had hoped that you picked this one up. Beautiful early Longhair which definitely has a different look to it than a long hair Hare or Nutria. It looks like some of the photos I have seen of true Beaver top hats from the 1830's/1840's.
 
Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
Superb! I saw that one on ebay as well. I had hoped that you picked this one up. Beautiful early Longhair which definitely has a different look to it than a long hair Hare or Nutria. It looks like some of the photos I have seen of true Beaver top hats from the 1830's/1840's.

I had the very same thought... this photo was taken at the Genesee Country Museum in 2012:

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