Post War Sears Hecules Jackets

[tmitchell59]

Terry, do you know how is it that the style for the D-pocket motorcycle jacket remained pretty much the same throughout the different eras and manufacturer? Did Sears had the rights on the style / design?
I was never quite able to figure out how did the transition from Hercules to Oakbrook happened, as the jacket remaining very similar.

I just finished the above post when I saw you question.

The jacket I pictured I call the standard for the 50s era for Sears. (as you know they had several other styles including the Buco Interstate Jackets) This is the style that took on the Oakbrook label around 1963. I have never seen an Oakbrook MC with a leather label. I assume they were all steerhide. Many of the other Sears styles during the 50s were steerhide only.

How the design came about I don't know. I do believe different makers were producing the jackets which make for differences in design. From my research I think it is obvious that Appalachian Tanned and Tailored made some of the Hercules, Fieldmaster, Oakbrook jackets. I do not now believe they made the MC jacket in horsehide as I posted above. The reason: the quality of the work and leather.

Tracking down the makers of the "catalog" jackets is a constant question I seek answers to. We know that Monrarch of Milwaukee made the famous iconic Hercules sport jacket and some of the barnstormer jackets from the 30s. I have a 40s Hercules with a makers label, A. Pritzker and sons. Appalachian made Sears jackets. The had "made and Styled in California" sales pitch. Who made these?

I really need to continue my sorting and research on the Sears MC jackets.

Your questions are questions I have thought about.

 

[navetsea]

Fascinating Terry, what strikes me whenever I see these is -

A $28 jacket in 1948 has a rough equivalence of $300 today.
Average length of 26 inches seems long, given the average height of five feet nine.
Nylon stitching for strength/nylon lining for life.
Plastic lined top pocket for your pipe and tobacco.

probably plastic will keep the tobacco oil and smell and possible stain onto your shirt, would make more sense to put them in zip lock bag before putting it into your pocket, but maybe such thing was rarity in that era perhaps.

 

[cdallas]

I just finished the above post when I saw you question.

The jacket I pictured I call the standard for the 50s era for Sears. (as you know they had several other styles including the Buco Interstate Jackets) This is the style that took on the Oakbrook label around 1963. I have never seen an Oakbrook MC with a leather label. I assume they were all steerhide. Many of the other Sears styles during the 50s were steerhide only.

How the design came about I don't know. I do believe different makers were producing the jackets which make for differences in design. From my research I think it is obvious that Appalachian Tanned and Tailored made some of the Hercules, Fieldmaster, Oakbrook jackets. I do not now believe they made the MC jacket in horsehide as I posted above. The reason: the quality of the work and leather.

Tracking down the makers of the "catalog" jackets is a constant question I seek answers to. We know that Monrarch of Milwaukee made the famous iconic Hercules sport jacket and some of the barnstormer jackets from the 30s. I have a 40s Hercules with a makers label, A. Pritzker and sons. Appalachian made Sears jackets. The had "made and Styled in California" sales pitch. Who made these?

I really need to continue my sorting and research on the Sears MC jackets.

Your questions are questions I have thought about.

Terry - I was always under the impression the “Styled and Made in California” label used by both Montgomery Ward and Sears were made by California Sportwear. I’ve had several examples of jackets with the California Sportwear label and other jackets from with Montgomery Ward or Sears with the “Styled and Made in California label that were practically identical.

 

[tmitchell59]

Terry - I was always under the impression the “Styled and Made in California” label used by both Montgomery Ward and Sears were made by California Sportwear. I’ve had several examples of jackets with the California Sportwear label and other jackets from with Montgomery Ward or Sears with the “Styled and Made in California label that were practically identical.

As popular as the California Sportswear Company I have no information about the company. They made jacket from the 30s through the 70s and no information. They made a lot of jackets. They used Hollywood celebrities to endorse their jacket even with the actors name in the jacket. That is California all the way.

I have thought about them as a source since they seemed to be a large operation given the number of jackets they produced. They were not the only maker in California of course.

Some of the Montgomery Ward labels look very much like Los Angeles Sport Tog labels. I don't even know if LA Sport Togs was a maker or label.

I own a lot of California Sportswear jackets, but none of them remind me of a Wards or Sears jacket.

When you have time write me or send me any pics. This is interesting breaking news!

 

[cdallas]

]

As popular as the California Sportswear Company I have no information about the company. They made jacket from the 30s through the 70s and no information. They made a lot of jackets. They used Hollywood celebrities to endorse their jacket even with the actors name in the jacket. That is California all the way.

I have thought about them as a source since they seemed to be a large operation given the number of jackets they produced. They were not the only maker in California of course.

Some of the Montgomery Ward labels look very much like Los Angeles Sport Tog labels. I don't even know if LA Sport Togs was a maker or label.

I own a lot of California Sportswear jackets, but none of them remind me of a Wards or Sears jacket.

When you have time write me or send me any pics. This is interesting breaking news!



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Terry - Here’s one example, I can send you others tomorrow, first picture is the label that was in the jacket below it. The rear design of the two jackets is identical and must be from the same maker. The front is slightly differently in pocket flap shape.

 

[tmitchell59]

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Terry - Here’s one example, I can send you others tomorrow, first picture is the label that was in the jacket below it. The rear design of the two jackets is identical and must be from the same maker. The front is slightly differently in pocket flap shape.

I believe you are on to something. I will evaluate my Cali jackets for similarities with my catalog jackets. I'm not even sure how California Sportswear sold jackets. I have two original boxes from the company. They say Leather Sportswear. Not sure if they made anything else, I have not seen any other materials.

 

[jonbuilder]

Sears Topline

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Any idea of the time frame for the Topline label?

 

[jonbuilder]

I’ve painstakingly brought this Herc back from some pretty rough condition with the help of Dena. My intention is to sell off all but this jacket, the Bates and the Goodgal and add one more Herc to the collection. There is something about these Hercs. They are truly magnificent jackets!
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I think this Hercules is the best fitting jacket I've seen you post.

 

[cdallas]

Here’s another example, Terry I believe you had this Hercules at one point. It has the “Styled and Made in California” label.

This is a California Sportwear and although it’s steerhide instead of cowhide, it is the same pattern.

 

[tmitchell59]

Any idea of the time frame for the Topline label?

Yes, Mentioned in 1941. Bigger display in 1943. Just those two years. I have several Topline jackets. I don't see any of them in the catalog.

 

[tmitchell59]

Here’s another example, Terry I believe you had this Hercules at one point. It has the “Styled and Made in California” label.
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This is a California Sportwear and although it’s steerhide instead of cowhide, it is the same pattern.
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I say you are two for two. They appear to be identical except for the label. Yes, I owned a steerhide like pictured. Light weight leather, light weight lining.

Here is the first mention of California in the 1944, it is mentioned again in the 1948 catalog.

Here is something similar with a rayon lining, but listed as Horsehide. 1952 Catalog. This same light lined jacket continues listing for a few years.

 

[tmitchell59]

California sure is front and center on this label.

I will see what comparisons I can make from my stock.

This labels looks older. There are several other MW Windward labels.

 

[cdallas]

The jacket lettered C in the 1952 ad reminds me of the jacket below. It also looks to have an orange rayon lining. This jacket also has the “Styled and Made in California” label

 

[tmitchell59]

The jacket lettered C in the 1952 ad reminds me of the jacket below. It also looks to have an orange rayon lining. This jacket also has the “Styled and Made in California” label

Yes, You have struck gold again. This does look like a horsehide jacket. The heavier weight is evident compared to the light weight steerhide jackets. Could be some of the lighter weight jackets were only in stores with more moderate temps.

Thanks again for opening this line of inquiry!

 

[ton312]

My spongebob square pocket Herc finally arrived. It’s nice. The steer is actually surprisingly thick! Needs a drink really bad and will get one this afternoon. Fit is decent. Feels like a standard HWM. Pretty cool. What interesting is despite all the surface wear the hardware is original and looks brand spanking new.

 

[tmitchell59]

My spongebob square pocket Herc finally arrived. It’s nice. The steer is actually surprisingly thick! Needs a drink really bad and will get one this afternoon. Fit is decent. Feels like a standard HWM. Pretty cool. What interesting is despite all the surface wear the hardware is original and looks brand spanking new.
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Nice! I've had some pretty heavy Steerhide from 50s Sears jackets.

 

[ton312]

After a big and I mean BIG drink I think the jacket might actually be coffee bean brown. This jacket was so thirsty. I like where it’s going though. Good utility piece.

 

[Seb Lucas]

That's damn cool, ton. Are you able to give us a weight? Is it over 5 pounds?

 

[ton312]

That's damn cool, ton. Are you able to give us a weight? Is it over 5 pounds?

Shipped weight was 6lbs. Stuffed into a small box, rolled and beaten with a stick. Probably right around 5lbs of jacket. I really dig it. Fits like a leather Carhartt Detroit. Lots of room up top and a severe taper at the waist. Really does feel like a workwear leather jacket. I’ll get some fit pics tomorrow.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Can't wait to see the pics. Glad it is like work-wear - for me the trouble with a lot of repop leather jackets these days are they aren't work wear and are more like showcases of high craft - which is fine, but something more aesthetic.