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rogueclimber

Practically Family
Messages
598
Location
Marina del Rey
Direct from Australia (Nine days total processing/shipping -- three of which were in LA...)

Limited Edition Banjo Paterson in Fern

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Randall Renshaw

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,134
Location
Nahunta, Ga.

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,933
Location
Denmark
[/URL]
Just picked this Milan up for $31 make offer.
Anybody know anything about the age of this hat or the brand?
Great buy, Randall!

It looks more like a Boater than a Fedora as it's described in the eBay add. Though the brim seems to be not so stiff as a Boater's.

Love the liner logo. Though it states that the Molinari brothers were hatmakers, I'm thinking it was perhaps more a hat shop.

Age? 30s to 50s range. Be interesting to see any labels under the sweat once you have it.

Just my two cents worth, but I guess Daniele will know much more.
 

Randall Renshaw

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,134
Location
Nahunta, Ga.
Great buy, Randall!

It looks more like a Boater than a Fedora as it's described in the eBay add. Though the brim seems to be not so stiff as a Boater's.

Love the liner logo. Though it states that the Molinari brothers were hatmakers, I'm thinking it was perhaps more a hat shop.

Age? 30s to 50s range. Be interesting to see any labels under the sweat once you have it.

Just my two cents worth, but I guess Daniele will know much more.
Thanks, Steve!
When I get it I’ll post more pics here of anything that may be revealing.
 
Messages
18,588
Location
Nederland
A brand that doesn't show up very often, so always interesting when it does.
Delion Fleuron F fedora in a blue colour I think is called Fulton. Size 59 according to the size label, but it fits more like a 57 to be honest. But it is another one that doesn't fit me. Generous raw edge brim at 7cm and a smidge and the crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Quite sturdy felt and it shows in the weight, which is 142 grams. The hand is lovely though.
Bonus feature is that it is dated: february 1st 1955.

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RickP

One Too Many
Messages
1,077
Having a Hurricane party going here working on hats lol (still have till about 10pm tonight before its totally past.. so far only heavy rain and 40 mph wind gusts... Im 150 miles inland north of the Houston area).

Our brave mailman slogged through the neighborhood to deliver a newbie. It was advertised as a Royal Temple in Nougat, but the ribbons narrower than my other Temples which are Sovereigns. Maybe its just the way the Royal hats came. Its a newer hat so nothing fancy, but its a color other than Black Grey or brown. Nice firm body felt and nice finish... just a little cleaning finger prints off the brim and it should be fine. Brim snaps up and down nicely.

Got a little steaming done on a couple wrinkles, and theres a pizza in the oven (the powers been flickering off and on for an hour or so) Worst comes to worst Ill play with it in the dark lol





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RickP

One Too Many
Messages
1,077
Having a Hurricane party going here working on hats lol (still have till about 10pm tonight before its totally past.. so far only heavy rain and 40 mph wind gusts... Im 150 miles inland north of the Houston area).

Our brave mailman slogged through the neighborhood to deliver a newbie. It was advertised as a Royal Temple in Nougat, but the ribbons narrower than my other Temples which are Sovereigns. Maybe its just the way the Royal hats came. Its a newer hat so nothing fancy, but its a color other than Black Grey or brown. Nice firm body felt and nice finish... just a little cleaning finger prints off the brim and it should be fine. Brim snaps up and down nicely.

Got a little steaming done on a couple wrinkles, and theres a pizza in the oven (the powers been flickering off and on for an hour or so) Worst comes to worst Ill play with it in the dark lol





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Think Ive figured out its a Stetson Downs... not a Temple it was advertised as. As a Royal, its not quite as nice as my Sovereign Temples, but its still nice feeling felt, looks nice, and its a color I didnt have... Sits nicely on the head. It WILL get worn (I did ditch the chicken feather) lol
 

RickP

One Too Many
Messages
1,077
Im wearing the USmail folks out this week! Another new box showed up this morning. ( at least they didnt have to run through the rain like yesterday). Its a little beige Stetson Bristol Hemp... just in time for summer!



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Its definately lighter weight than my Stratoliner Hemps... Its going to be a nice addition and help save the felts from sweatstains lol
 

rogueclimber

Practically Family
Messages
598
Location
Marina del Rey
Picked up a new without tags "Biltmore"

Turns out it was it was neither new nor a Biltmore...

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The sweat stains and worn liner say this ain't quite new and the size inside the liner says the advertised 7 1/4 is also incorrect...

@Steve1857 informed me of the correct description

Tonak post WWII Czechoslovakian well known hat company.

Probably 1950s / early 60s hat.

IsCo is Israel Cohen, the distributor of Tonak Hats in the USA back in the day.


For $31 I'll keep it!
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,146
Location
Germany
German boater ("Kreissäge") of unknown brand
The label looks familiar to me, but I haven't been able
to make the connection to a manufacturer yet.
"Hemdenmatz" should be the seller/wholesaler
(It's a nickname for a small child wearing only a shirt;
but it's also funny because my nickname is Matze)
crown height at 9 cm, brim at 5 cm

The hat itself with the black hat band, the bow treatment
and also the weaving is nothing very special,
but rather the standard boater as it was common
in Central Europe in the 20s and 30s...
What makes it special, however, is the bon ton ivy sweatband
and the wind cord; the hat is also in (almost) unworn condition
and fits me like a glove (I had to search for a long time...)

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Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,933
Location
Denmark
German boater ("Kreissäge") of unknown brand
The label looks familiar to me, but I haven't been able
to make the connection to a manufacturer yet.
"Hemdenmatz" should be the seller/wholesaler
(It's a nickname for a small child wearing only a shirt;
but it's also funny because my nickname is Matze)
crown height at 9 cm, brim at 5 cm

The hat itself with the black hat band, the bow treatment
and also the weaving is nothing very special,
but rather the standard boater as it was common
in Central Europe in the 20s and 30s...
What makes it special, however, is the bon ton ivy sweatband
and the wind cord; the hat is also in (almost) unworn condition
and fits me like a glove (I had to search for a long time...)

48324697lg.jpg

48324696ck.jpg

48324702he.jpg

48324700vy.jpg

48324699gu.jpg

48324698nq.jpg

48324695sn.jpg

48324706mt.jpeg

48324692lf.jpg
Again, congrats Matt on the find.

Not often you see/find a Boater with a wind cord.

So I'd say, all in all, with it's close to antique age, liner logo, Bon-Ton Ivy weave, wind cord, overall look and shape, it's a bit more than "nothing special" :)
 

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,146
Location
Germany
J. Hückel's Söhne "Chamois" in a wonderful dark blue
The pictures are too dark, but one fits in terms of color.
open crown at 14 cm, brim at 5 cm; maybe late 30s
Unfortunately it's small, but my wife chose the hat anyway
(Sorry, Panos, this is the second one, but your stack is not in danger)
I think this is the first pre-war Hückel chamoise we have -
at least I've only found wonderful hats here with this finish
that are from the 50s and well known.
But maybe Steve has something up his sleeve?

The hat was sold at L. R. Zeumer, a shop belonging to the
well-known and traditional family of furriers and hat makers:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/german-austrian-hutmachers.32103/post-1285010
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/84-l-r-zeumer-hutfabrik-mannheim/
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pelzwaren_N._R._Zeumer,_Mannheim_1903.jpg
At the last link there is also a slightly more detailed version of the data
on the Zeumer family that Steve compiled/obtained from the Mannheim archive:
Company history:
According to a document, the Zeumers have been working as hat makers since 1639.
In 1786, at the age of 39, Johann Heinrich Zeumer became self-employed as a hatter
and furrier in Schleiz, Thuringia. He will be 73 years old.
1785 Birth of the son Johann Sebastian, who also learned his father's craft and
was already a master craftsman when he married in 1811.
1821 Birth of his son, Heinrich Gustav, who also took up the profession.
When he married in 1844, he had already passed his master's examination.
In 1857 their son Louis Richard Zeumer was born, who also learned the craft
of furriers and hat makers. After a time in London, he set up his own business
in Mannheim on December 1, 1886 (see advertisement).
In 1888 he moved to Breite Straße.
In 1885 he moved to the last location (1987) at Mannheim H 1, 6.
The renowned Zeumer bathing establishment also opened in 1885.
As part of a contract with the city of Mannheim, this was one of
Mannheim's five private pools until the city's Herschelbad was opened.
The two sons Richard and Arthur also learned the hat making and furrier trade.
In 1921 Richard Zeumer went to America, where, after a number of years of travel,
he ran a renowned fur business in Argentina until 1956.
In 1926, Louis Richard Zeumer took over the H 1, 6-7 business after his father
retired to his retirement home, a farm on Lake Constance, where he died at the age of 84.
In 1927, the Heisel hat shop, located next to H 1, 7, was taken over and connected
to the previous business premises with a major renovation. At the beginning of the 1930s
it was the largest hat and cap shop in southern Germany. Even after the Second World War,
40 waitresses often sold 2,000 or more men's hats on Christmas Saturdays and Sundays,
not counting the caps.
On September 6, 1943, the company building was completely destroyed in a bomb attack.
The relocated machines were soon relocated to a new location, Mannheim S 1, 3,
and fell victim to another bomb attack that same night. After purchasing new machines,
initially installed in S 1 5, then in Mannheim S 1, 2, production of Wehrmacht canine vests
was resumed. The business continued even after the main business was rebuilt,
although it was not satisfactorily profitable due to its unfavorable location.
It was not until 1948, three years after the end of the war, that Arthur Zeumer's son,
Richard, returned from captivity. He had a sister. He studied agriculture before
joining the company. He took over the newly opened branch in Bad Kreuznach,
the former Heinrich Erkenroth store.
In 1949 the first phase of the old, bombed-out house was restored.
In 1966, the completely rebuilt Kreuznach branch was converted into its own company,
and in 1980 it was enlarged as part of another renovation.
In 1966, the former company Janzer + Block in Weinheim/Bergstraße was also taken over.
In 1987, the 7th generation, wholesale and foreign trade merchant Thomas Zeumer,
son of Ingeborg and Werner Zeumer, celebrated the company's 200th anniversary.
The main company had now undergone some major renovations. Henning Zeumer,
son of Richard Zeumer, was supposed to take over the business in Bad Kreuznach.
Richard Zeumer was also chairman of the Bad Kreuznach retail association at the time;
Werner Zeumer Senior master of the Southwest Furriers' Guild and long-standing
board member of the Central Association of the German Furriers' Trade as well as
one of the vice presidents of the Rhine-Neckar Chamber of Industry and Commerce,
as well as a commercial judge and employee in the economic development committee
of the city of Mannheim.

Source (google translation):
M. S.: Zweihundert Jahre Zeumer. In: Die Pelzwirtschaft Nr. 1, 14. Februar 1987,
C. B. Verlag Carl Boldt, Berlin, S. 48 (Bild). --- Pelz-International Januar 1987,
Rhenania Fachverlag Hamburg, S. 26-27, 34 (Ohne Autorenangabe: 200 Jahre Zeumer)
(Firmengeschichte) / Collection G. & C. Franke

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Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,146
Location
Germany
Again, congrats Matt on the find.

Not often you see/find a Boater with a wind cord.

So I'd say, all in all, with it's close to antique age, liner logo, Bon-Ton Ivy weave, wind cord, overall look and shape, it's a bit more than "nothing special" :)
Thanks Steve! Of course you are right and a boater in this condition is always special.
I was referring more to the fact that it doesn't have any fancy weaving or a parrot-colored ribbon,
as we often see on the specimens from across the pond.
Either way: I'm very happy because you'll know how rare they are now here in this size -
and what's more, it's virtually personalized with the logo and nickname :cool:
 

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