One More Time

[Plumbline]

Guys. I have had both in 44" both in 42" and finally have one in a 42" ( Roadster ) and one in a 40" ( highwayman )

The 42" Roadster is slimmer than the 40" Highwayman ???

It's not the same size ...

I have no interest in what the OP buys ... But the size aspect I can state as a fact

In any case speak to the vendors and get the measurements that way you'll get exact measurements. Get yourself measured and make your choice.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Wonder what influenced you to finally select slimmer jackets...

 

[Plumbline]

You know what ....

Today has been an interesting day ........ I've had people calling me names, telling me to stick my jackets up my arse and various other things .....

It's nice to know you have such helpful advice to add to the OP HD ..... well done.


I think I'm done here, phone Thurstopn / Aero and Alexanders OP .. they'll give you measurements and you can make your choice from there, that's probably your best direction.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I suggest going the route of Insurrection's try on jacket as well. They may even direct you to the 30's Highwayman after letting them know how the try on fits..plus work with you on a great selection of hides. Couldn't be more simple.

Good luck
HD

 

[dan_t]

Lots of great advice gentlemen, are there any pics for the OP to actually 'see' the 40" HWM vs a 42" Roadster?
This may be a useful next visual step.
(Have to also claim a personal interest in the topic for a possible future purchase myself).

 

[pawineguy]

I've been following this thread and I can't help but go back to your original post where you have had three HWM already that don't fit how you like them, admittedly due to problems with measurements and not trusting the experts. With that history, the idea of taking some dimensions off an existing jacket and then modifying them sounds like you might end up with a 4th jacket that you don't like. Either maker should be able to make you a terrific jacket, but the Thurston/Insurrection fit jacket will take almost all of the guesswork out of it. The slimmer HWM is now available if you want a trimmer fit.

If you choose to go with AL, don't just send them dimensions, take some pics of one of your current jackets to email to them, tell them what you like and don't like, and follow their advice.

 

[OneEyeMan]

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna send my current Highwayman to Carrie at Insurrection and have them build a new one directly tweaked from it.
Does anybody know if they take trade ins or do consignments?
Lenny

 

[Fanch]

Lenny I think Insurrection does consignments but would pay particular attention to HD's input, including possibly going with the 30's Highwayman rather than the older, boxier iteration. Pawineguy's input of "taking some dimensions off an existing jacket and then modifying them sounds like you might end up with a 4th jacket that you don't like" makes perfect sense too. I feel your frustration as I have been there before and am happy with a jacket made of burlap sack material as long as it fits. Well ... not really but think Insurrection would be your best alternative. Only Carrie can tell you how helpful it would be to send them your current Highwayman or better if they send you one of their test jackets. [huh]

 

[Peacoat]

Lenny, with Wade and Carrie you don't have to send a jacket to them (although they may say it would work). You can send them the measurements of a well fitting jacket. They will then send you a test jacket that is built about the same as the jacket you want to buy, and that is close to the measurements that you supplied. It is a very efficient way to determine exactly what size you need. You can send some photos to Wade of you wearing the test jacket, and he will know exactly how much to add or take away from the jacket to be built for you.

I have been doing it this way for about five years (Insurrection and Johnson Leathers), and it is the only way I will now buy custom jackets. PC.

EDIT NOTE: Fanch, we posted at the same time and said about the same thing.

 

[Fanch]

Yeah Peacoat but you said it a helluva lot better than I did.

 

[OneEyeMan]

Doesn't the 30's Highwayman have higher and slimmer arm holes and slimmer arms.
If so, that's a no starter for me.
I want it easier to put on and take off when I wear long sleeve shirts, not harder.
Perhaps Carrie/Aero can work out a compromise cut, don't know.
I like Peacoat's suggestion the best so far, just send them my desired dimensions and have them send a test jacket and go from there.

 

[Sloan1874]

Sounds a goer. What colour/leather do you have in mind?

 

[winterland1]

I have had an Aero Highwayman, 50' Halfbelt and now an Alexander Roadster and Lost Worlds Ryder.
My Roadster does have a more fitted look compared to the Highwayman and the Halfbelt was more fitted than the Highwayman. Ryder is a little less fitted than Roadster as it is a little bigger in measurements, but same type of fit.

What I have found is the overall measurements that work for a person work with most all leather jackets.
Some jackets just won't have those measurements being they are a certain style. Some are boxier some are slimmer.

You need to find what your measurements are and having a jacket that fits how you like is really the only way to be sure.

If you do some searching on here you should be able to find pictures of the different jackets to compare fits.

Here is a thread about my Roadster. http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?73491-My-New-Alexander-Leathers-4-Pocket-Roadster-Smooth-Steer&highlight=

 

[Fanch]

Doesn't the 30's Highwayman have higher and slimmer arm holes and slimmer arms.
If so, that's a no starter for me.
I want it easier to put on and take off when I wear long sleeve shirts, not harder.
Perhaps Carrie/Aero can work out a compromise cut, don't know.
I like Peacoat's suggestion the best so far, just send them my desired dimensions and have them send a test jacket and go from there.

I can tell you that I wear nothing but long sleeve shirts, and I have no problem whatsoever putting on and taking off my Maxwell and Mulligan - no different than putting on and taking off my Teamster or even my Highwayman(s) now gone. I will say that the sleeves of all my jackets are lined with the somewhat slippery, tough as nails cotton drill that Aero now uses. Might be different with sleeves lined with moleskin, wool, or corduroy. You'll have to ask Carrie or Wade whether the higher arm holes and smaller sleeves might be a problem for you. However, all of the guess work removed if you are sent a test jacket, so the only thing left to fine tune would be body length and sleeve length which might already be worked out with your current Highwayman.

Regarding Aero vs. AL: If you lived in the UK and were vacillating between Aero and AL, I would say you pay your money and take your choice. But you live in the US, and given your prior sizing issues, I would go through Insurrection as nothing else seems to make sense in your case, or at least that't the way I see it as I think I said before - I can't remember. Good luck and let us know how you resolve this!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I always assumed that if you know your ideal pit to pit, sleeve length, shoulder width and back length getting a good fit is almost never a problem. The only thing I've ever screwed up is ask for more shoulder width than I needed. But anything from 19 to 20.5 inches will work fine. Length is felxible too. I can go an inch in either direction without being devastated.

 

[Plumbline]

Oops missed the questions on hides

Alexander's and Aero do a large variety of comparable hides ( as do many of the other manufacturers)

Horween CXL steer is widely available from a number of manufacturers .( including Alexander's / Aero and others) .. And is IMHO the finest jacket leather for the Highwayman style jacket ( all that remains is the choice of colour and most manufacturers have their own unique colour palates )

FQHH is available in chrome tanned and combination tanned from numerous manufacturers from various tanneries. Stu at lost worlds is probably the thickest and smoothest I have seen. Aero specialise in CXL which has a nice hand glazed finish, Alexander's specialise in their "Warhawk" hide which has an identical tankage to CXL without hand glazing ( not my words guys but Nick Horweens so don't shoot the messenger.

I'm not a huge fan of FQHH ... I know many on here are ... but I much prefer steer both from a personal perspective ( my wife has horses and gets a bit touchy with me wearing FQHH) but I also believe that steer develops MUCH mor character and breaks in quicker than FQHH. it also breaks in to a softer hand and shows much heavier graining. There are exceptions to this rule but that's what I've found in 20odd years of jacket collecting.

If you want a hide that drapes .. But with the same thickness of hand ... Then oil pull steer is exceptional and many manufacturers produce in this. Equally veg tanned horse and steer are great options and have a much softer hand but also are more susceptible to staining etc ...

As a last comment don't dismiss Bill Kelso who I believe use some of the finest hides available and have posted at length on here and are hugely knowledgeable re. Hide quality. Equally Gary Eastman has a new range and some stunning hides.

All in all .. Request hide samples ... Compare the quality and try to imagine the hides made into a jacket .... Happy hunting.

 

[OneEyeMan]

Awesome information all, thank you so very much.
I'm gonna work with Carrie at Insurrection to get the perfect fit.
I'm also gonna stay with the regular Highwayman for 3 reasons:
- I like the way the boxy cut looks on me
- I need the wider sleeves and sleeve openings as my shoulders aren't the best
- It's the best chance of getting a perfect fit. I have a feeling that going with the 30's Highwayman is a bit riskier in the fit dept.
As for leather, most likely CXL Steerhide.
But I'm concerned that Aero's Steerhide is even thicker and more restricting than their FQHH.
Comments on that?

 

[Grayland]

I always assumed that if you know your ideal pit to pit, sleeve length, shoulder width and back length getting a good fit is almost never a problem. The only thing I've ever screwed up is ask for more shoulder width than I needed. But anything from 19 to 20.5 inches will work fine. Length is felxible too. I can go an inch in either direction without being devastated.

I agree 100% Seb. Once you get those numbers dialed in, it is quite easy to buy jackets. As long as the seller measures correctly, you are assured of getting a jacket that fits.

 

[Sloan1874]

If that's a concern, why not go MWHH or goat?

 

[OneEyeMan]

If that's a concern, why not go MWHH or goat?

Don't like goat as it really doesn't grain up and develop patina that well.
As for MWHH, I've read that it's nowhere near as nice as the FQHH.
And many have said that the CXL Steerhide, though heavy and stiff at first breaks in very nicely.
I have a Vanson in their competition weight steerhide and really like it.