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Five Star / 5* buttoned half-belt in black waxed premium goatskin

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,867
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East Java
perhaps they have a curving template set made from wood or something for shoulder post and use that same template ruler to draw shoulder sleeve post to any jackets regardless of the spec, Another possible reason is they follow the drawing too closely, I bet most customers who order custom jacket are not pattern maker, so when they draw a jacket design the drawing is not a flat pattern, rather it is how the jacket looked by the eye being worn by an invisible figure basically a 3d object but just non rendered as such, thus as a pattern maker they should adjust how the pattern must be so when the jacket is worn the position of the chest pocket is like in the drawing, meaning they must lower and centered the chest pocket by quite a margin because the body has thickness. I think that is why the chest pocket is always too high on 5*, because they see their customer drawing as a flat pattern template and not just mere illustration about how the jacket should look when being worn.
 

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