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My First Attempt at Making a Fedora.

DarrelMorris

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
Riverside
This is my first attempt at making a fedora. It was blocked on a 5 1/2" Hat Shaper and the brim was cut by hand as well since I don't own a rounding jack. I'd love to hear any suggestions, comments or critiques that you all may offer. I will try and get some more photos tomorrow when the light is better.
DSCF3593.jpg DSCF3594.jpg
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
I can tell you this much, you exhibit more courage than what I have! it looks like what you wanted to do, a Fedora, and for not having what "tools" you could have used, I think for a first time you hit the mark!
 

DOGMAN

One Too Many
Messages
1,625
Location
Northeast Ohio
Good start.I made a rounding jack that I have used to cut about a dozen brims so far.Works pretty good.Can't wait to see your next hat.
 

DarrelMorris

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
Riverside
OK. Here are some more photos from other angles. Feel free to offer any critiques. In fact, please do. I would love to hear about all of the "issues" that you see in my workmanship. I am completely self taught and the only way I can improve my work is with honest feedback.
DSCF3597.jpg DSCF3598.jpg DSCF3599.jpg DSCF3600.jpg DSCF3602.jpg
 
Messages
10,924
Location
My mother's basement
It's an inexpensive plastic hat block for hobbyists. They aren't perfect, but they will work.
http://www.hatshapers.com/

A fine first effort, Darrel. Those hatshaper things are no substitute for "real" blocks, though.

I'm confident that once you've made a hat or three on a proper wooden block (check eBay, and Etsy) you'll never use that hatshaper again. It'll go faster, and easier, and better, really. But before you rush out and buy blocks, carefully consider what style(s) of hat you wish to make, and shop accordingly. And expect to pay more for the more desirable blocks, which are typically the taller, straighter ones, in sizes most of us moderns wear.
 

DarrelMorris

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
Riverside
A fine first effort, Darrel. Those hatshaper things are no substitute for "real" blocks, though.

I'm confident that once you've made a hat or three on a proper wooden block (check eBay, and Etsy) you'll never use that hatshaper again. It'll go faster, and easier, and better, really. But before you rush out and buy blocks, carefully consider what style(s) of hat you wish to make, and shop accordingly. And expect to pay more for the more desirable blocks, which are typically the taller, straighter ones, in sizes most of us moderns wear.

I completely understand. The Hat Shapers are fine for my pirate hats, but I already have plans to make some better blocks. Eventually I will also want to make some flanges too, but I'm on an extremely tight budget so it's got to be one step at a time.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
OK. Here are some more photos from other angles. Feel free to offer any critiques. In fact, please do. I would love to hear about all of the "issues" that you see in my workmanship. I am completely self taught and the only way I can improve my work is with honest feedback.

Okay, but only because you asked. :)

The stitches in the bow are a bit large, but that's the only thing that really sticks out to me.
 

DarrelMorris

Familiar Face
Messages
68
Location
Riverside
Okay, but only because you asked. :)

The stitches in the bow are a bit large, but that's the only thing that really sticks out to me.
Thank you. I know people are reluctant to criticize, but I really do encourage it. I find it's the best way to improve my craft and learn from my more experienced peers.
 

casechopper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,783
Location
Northern NJ
My criticisms would be that:
The tacking on the bow might look nicer if it were a bit more subtle.
The sweatband looks like it's a bit deeper into the crown than it should be. i have a hat that has the sweatband deeper like that and it ends up with a lot more sweat on the felt as there's contact between my forehead and the felt. In my experience you want the sweatband to sit flush with the base of the crown and the reed edge to bend outwards over the under edge of the brim just slightly.
Many on this forum would prefer a fuller, less tapered crown on a hat but there are plenty of people who would prefer the crown shape that you've made as well. These are relatively minor issues but as you've asked for criticism...
 

jbucklin

Practically Family
Messages
977
Location
Dallas, TX
A fine first effort, Darrel. Those hatshaper things are no substitute for "real" blocks, though.

I'm confident that once you've made a hat or three on a proper wooden block (check eBay, and Etsy) you'll never use that hatshaper again. It'll go faster, and easier, and better, really. But before you rush out and buy blocks, carefully consider what style(s) of hat you wish to make, and shop accordingly. And expect to pay more for the more desirable blocks, which are typically the taller, straighter ones, in sizes most of us moderns wear.

Oh Yeah. I just wanted to make sure that that is what you were talking about. I have two of them. I really want to invest in real wood blocks and flanges. Tomorrow I will make a trip to Peter Brothers Hatters to get a brim re-flanged.
 

Preacher Man

A-List Customer
Messages
327
Location
South Central Kentucky, USA
Hey DarrelMorris, you did a good job!! This is an outstanding first hat, keep on learning, keep on working at it, and keep that open mind. I appreciate your willingness, your desire to learn and your obvious talent. Keep going!
 

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