Italian brands hats

[mayserwegener]

Steve, it's very likely you are right, Often in the hats made in Monza it is difficult to recognize the manufacturer. The components used are very similar, as are the shapes and trademarks used (a myriad), so it is difficult to go back to who actually built the hat, the quality remains constant in those, few, that I had in my hands, whether they are of wool or fur

Daniele, Now someone has to find a Pelizzoni and Riva!

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Thank you very much, gentlemen, for all your efforts - even if the hat remains a little mystery...

 

[Steve1857]

I picked this one up yesterday. A Panizza Super. Short brim, wide ribbon, nice dense felt. A bit on the small side at a straight 57, but I expected that with an Italian hat. A few hours on the hat jack and it's almost there.

The liner is sewn in. The paper label is difficult to take a photo of. Apart from some production numbers it says Ruzeno. My searches reveal nothing as to the meaning of this word.

Nice Panizza, nothing particularly special, but I like it as it sits nice after a stretch and has a 50s look to it.

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[milandro]

In Florence proudly consider themselves the inventors of "paglietta o magiostrina" known in Anglo-Saxon countries such as boater .

This is a nice “ Magiostrina” bought from a great Milanese shop, Mutinelli many years ago. I rarely use it . I changed the ribbon from the standard black to this striped black and white which I find a little dapperer

 

[steur]

Here's an interesting one.
Alessandria fedora. Size 56, with the brim at 5,7cm and the crown 10 cm at the center dent. The styling of this hat very much says Borsalino. Judging by the size tag though the most likely maker is Cervo. Not all that odd, because Cervo did on occasion make hats for Borsalino. The styling is all there, but the felt is less refined than a real Borsalino. The sweatband is a cheaper one as well.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Here's an interesting one.
Alessandria fedora. Size 56, with the brim at 5,7cm and the crown 10 cm at the center dent. The styling of this hat very much says Borsalino. Judging by the size tag though the most likely maker is Cervo. Not all that odd, because Cervo did on occasion make hats for Borsalino. The styling is all there, but the felt is less refined than a real Borsalino. The sweatband is a cheaper one as well.

Stefan, I have other proposals regarding this "masked" Borsalino. The first is Vanzina who used the same sizes and was an excellent producer, since 1956 bought by Borsalino and manufacturer of hats on his own or on behalf of the Alessandria company, but above all I believe that a good number of hats were made for the Borsalino by contractors of Alessandria and surroundings, some with materials taken directly from the parent company, others on their own.

 

[steur]

Stefan, I have other proposals regarding this "masked" Borsalino. The first is Vanzina who used the same sizes and was an excellent producer, since 1956 bought by Borsalino and manufacturer of hats on his own or on behalf of the Alessandria company, but above all I believe that a good number of hats were made for the Borsalino by contractors of Alessandria and surroundings, some with materials taken directly from the parent company, others on their own.

Vanzina fits the bill for me! It's not a company I think of immediately, because I've handled very few of their hats. So I have little to compare.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

This hat is an enigma, but it is also an example of the work of an Italian hatter, Alfonso Tenisci, of the past
It is probable the client had an old homburg and wanted to make it more current, so the hatter has redesigned the brim, but it is only a hypothesis. The felt is magnificent and carries the original manufacturer's paper label. It is written by hand, so it is from before the Second World War

The source from which the original hat comes, could be Monza, the capital of hats at that time, or Cappellificio Cervo

It comes from Milan and this is in the thanks that Stefano Anzani - Cappelleria Melegari mentions in his presentation "A thought and a thank you go to all the master hatters from whom I learned this ancient profession. In particular to Franco De Toffoli, hat maker from Novate Milanese, who for a long time unfortunately is no longer with us, to the master hatter Alfonso Tenisci from whom I did real apprenticeship in his workshop workshop in Via Vitruvio in Milan, to the dear Gianni Sala, the historic hatter from Monza, for his help and equipment necessary passatami, thanks also to my friend Sergio Fiori for the hat “he has it in his blood”, to the young hatter Luca Mauri, to the great master Malegori of Monza an authentic “mad hatter” and to the masters Pino, Giorgio and Marco Vimercati , last bastions of an "endangered" world”

The hat is finished inside with a "Brasiliano" lining which is a brand of hats, often wrongly considered one of the Borsalino shadow brands, so it is not and the sweatband is signed by Alfonso Tenisci

The dimensions of the hat are as follows: the brim is 6 cm. the crown 11.5 cm at the lowest point and the ribbon is 4.5 cm.

The enigma is also the real size, considered to have been corrected in pen on the label, unfortunately for me it is a 56 cm.
I let the photographs speak for the hat.
It is "un Signor Cappello" of an Italian hatter of the heyday

 

[mayserwegener]

View attachment 196422 This hat is an enigma, but it is also an example of the work of an Italian hatter, Alfonso Tenisci, of the past
It is probable the client had an old homburg and wanted to make it more current, so the hatter has redesigned the brim, but it is only a hypothesis. The felt is magnificent and carries the original manufacturer's paper label. It is written by hand, so it is from before the Second World War
View attachment 196423
The source from which the original hat comes, could be Monza, the capital of hats at that time, or Cappellificio Cervo
View attachment 196424
It comes from Milan and this is in the thanks that Stefano Anzani - Cappelleria Melegari mentions in his presentation "A thought and a thank you go to all the master hatters from whom I learned this ancient profession. In particular to Franco De Toffoli, hat maker from Novate Milanese, who for a long time unfortunately is no longer with us, to the master hatter Alfonso Tenisci from whom I did real apprenticeship in his workshop workshop in Via Vitruvio in Milan, to the dear Gianni Sala, the historic hatter from Monza, for his help and equipment necessary passatami, thanks also to my friend Sergio Fiori for the hat “he has it in his blood”, to the young hatter Luca Mauri, to the great master Malegori of Monza an authentic “mad hatter” and to the masters Pino, Giorgio and Marco Vimercati , last bastions of an "endangered" world”
View attachment 196425
The hat is finished inside with a "Brasiliano" lining which is a brand of hats, often wrongly considered one of the Borsalino shadow brands, so it is not and the sweatband is signed by Alfonso Tenisci
View attachment 196426
The dimensions of the hat are as follows: the brim is 6 cm. the crown 11.5 cm at the lowest point and the ribbon is 4.5 cm.
View attachment 196427
The enigma is also the real size, considered to have been corrected in pen on the label, unfortunately for me it is a 56 cm.
I let the photographs speak for the hat.
It is "un Signor Cappello" of an Italian hatter of the heyday

Daniele, Great to see this one! The felt looks fantastic. Super find!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Daniele, Great to see this one! The felt looks fantastic. Super find!

Thanks Steve! It is the first time I see a hat "worked" by an Italian hatter who signs the work. The active hatters in Milan and Monza were among the most long-lived of the Italian panorama in the production of hats, both industrial and artisan, some, it seems, are still active. I hope to meet some others again

 

[steur]

View attachment 196422 This hat is an enigma, but it is also an example of the work of an Italian hatter, Alfonso Tenisci, of the past
It is probable the client had an old homburg and wanted to make it more current, so the hatter has redesigned the brim, but it is only a hypothesis. The felt is magnificent and carries the original manufacturer's paper label. It is written by hand, so it is from before the Second World War
View attachment 196423
The source from which the original hat comes, could be Monza, the capital of hats at that time, or Cappellificio Cervo
View attachment 196424
It comes from Milan and this is in the thanks that Stefano Anzani - Cappelleria Melegari mentions in his presentation "A thought and a thank you go to all the master hatters from whom I learned this ancient profession. In particular to Franco De Toffoli, hat maker from Novate Milanese, who for a long time unfortunately is no longer with us, to the master hatter Alfonso Tenisci from whom I did real apprenticeship in his workshop workshop in Via Vitruvio in Milan, to the dear Gianni Sala, the historic hatter from Monza, for his help and equipment necessary passatami, thanks also to my friend Sergio Fiori for the hat “he has it in his blood”, to the young hatter Luca Mauri, to the great master Malegori of Monza an authentic “mad hatter” and to the masters Pino, Giorgio and Marco Vimercati , last bastions of an "endangered" world”
View attachment 196425
The hat is finished inside with a "Brasiliano" lining which is a brand of hats, often wrongly considered one of the Borsalino shadow brands, so it is not and the sweatband is signed by Alfonso Tenisci
View attachment 196426
The dimensions of the hat are as follows: the brim is 6 cm. the crown 11.5 cm at the lowest point and the ribbon is 4.5 cm.
View attachment 196427
The enigma is also the real size, considered to have been corrected in pen on the label, unfortunately for me it is a 56 cm.
I let the photographs speak for the hat.
It is "un Signor Cappello" of an Italian hatter of the heyday

Great history. The hat itself very much reminds me of the Sools hat you found me once. Could be the liner was put in later.

The earlier Brasiliano hats were made by Borsalino. This is one I have.

This was pre-war though. Likely they sold on the brand to another manufacturer.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Great history. The hat itself very much reminds me of the Sools hat you found me once. Could be the liner was put in later.

Yes it is true the Solls and the Tenisci are similar, but the paper label of the Italian hat has the writing in Italian, the color is: Perugia. However the hat is beautiful and enigmatic.
About the Borsalino-Brasiliano I believe this morning to have reached some conclusions. The Brasiliano brand was used for the hats made in Monza for Borsalino and, at a certain point, Borsalino left it so that he continued with other interpreters always in Monza and surroundings

 

[mayserwegener]

The "Brasiliano Extra" sweatband might like a latter addition. I assume there is no crown mark patch.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

For mixed felts they usually sing the praises of Borsalino, but we forget that the mountain hatters, Barbisio and Cappellificio Cervo, have interpreted the theme in a splendid manner
View attachment 197466
Super Bantam Cervo size 60 or 7 1/2 US
View attachment 197467
Felt is a melange of green and some red, called "Loden" in the production workshop in Sagliano Micca - Biella a few years ago
View attachment 197468
The heather felt finish is typical of the mixed with a slight hair, sometimes bristly. The consistency is quite firm
View attachment 197469
The measurements are as follows: 6 cm of brim with a superb overwelted finish, the crown is 11 cm. and the tape at 4 cm.
View attachment 197470
The Bantam brand is also used by Cervo for the construction of Italian Alpine troops hat
View attachment 197471

View attachment 197472
The hat was sold in the depths of southern Italy, in Taranto former cappelleria Pisapia of which I have a large series of special "Bantam" felts produced by Cappelificio Cervo
View attachment 197473

 

[steur]

The "Brasiliano Extra" sweatband might like a latter addition. I assume there is no crown mark patch.

Could be. There's no clue pointing one way or the other I'm afraid other than that the felt shows no obvious signs of wear,

 

[steur]

St. George Cappellificio Monzese fedora in a blue grey. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown 10cm at the pinch. Woolfelt hat that is not in a great condition, but the colour is nice and I got it cheap. Interesting enough to bring it along. I put a new ribbon on it and I may change the liner too. The hatters from Monza were known for their woolfelt hats.

 

[Steve1857]

St. George Cappellificio Monzese fedora in a blue grey. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown 10cm at the pinch. Woolfelt hat that is not in a great condition, but the colour is nice and I got it cheap. Interesting enough to bring it along. I put a new ribbon on it and I may change the liner too. The hatters from Monza were known for their woolfelt hats.

That is indeed a great colour, Stefan. Nice choice of ribbon, too. Really contrasts nicely with the steel blue grey of the felt. Personally, I love that liner as is, despite its flaws. I wouldn't change it at all. Nice find.

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[steur]

That is indeed a great colour, Stefan. Nice choice of ribbon, too. Really contrasts nicely with the steel blue grey of the felt. Personally, I love that liner as is, despite its flaws. I wouldn't change it at all. Nice find.

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Thanks, Steve. The ribbon colour is called tree tan. The liner is likely to stay in there I think as this hat is probably going to be a benchsitter.

 

[Pellie]

St. George Cappellificio Monzese fedora in a blue grey. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown 10cm at the pinch. Woolfelt hat that is not in a great condition, but the colour is nice and I got it cheap. Interesting enough to bring it along. I put a new ribbon on it and I may change the liner too. The hatters from Monza were known for their woolfelt hats.

Nice colours. I wouldn't change the ribbon either. I think it's great the way it is. Nice find

 

[Pellie]

Edit: do i understand it right that you already changed the ribbon??