Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Homburg Nation

Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
What I really don’t need is yet another black homburg….

Biltmore Golden Pheasant black velour size 7 3/4. Not only is the velour finish soft, the felt doesn’t have much of a firm core and the hat is soft and light on the head. Seeing that it’s from Menshats.com I’m guessing it’s from the 1930s. ;)


1D5CF28A-5409-4083-A55E-4263D5AD74DB.jpeg
5709552A-44D6-411E-B78F-67B9380BEADF.jpeg
08F5FF3C-4453-47FA-AF2E-13365DCF9386.jpeg
CA76C785-ED76-4A5E-B8FB-2D5DAA8EFBB5.jpeg
B76E6854-B5E1-4ACC-9AE7-4FB9B3623A66.jpeg
8D497E10-AFCF-4A08-BC25-685A7CBA702A.jpeg
561D99B6-94F7-474F-82F4-320FD5553203.jpeg
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
Berteil homburg in grey colour called 'abbey' on the label. Size 55 with the bound brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. Quite modest proportions for a homburg, which has me thinking it is a bit later one, likely early to mid sixties. The liner is different from the usual Berteil liner logo as well. Sold to me as a size 56, so not too pleased it turned out to be a size smaller, but I'll keep it anyway (it's on the stretcher).
The sweatband states "importé d'Angleterre" (imported from England) and in fact I know who the manufacturer was. It was made by Moores, because they used both the more square labels and the cloth size labels. Berteil used only the best manufacturers, so it is a testimony to the quality Moores could provide that Berteil chose them.

berteil moores_01.jpg

berteil moores_02.jpg

berteil moores_03.jpg

berteil moores_04.jpg

berteil moores_06.jpg

berteil moores_07.jpg

berteil moores_08.jpg

berteil moores_09.jpg

berteil moores_10.jpg

berteil moores_11.jpg
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

mossant angola_01.jpg

mossant angola_02.jpg

mossant angola_03.jpg

mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg

mossant angola_07.jpg

mossant angola_08.jpg

mossant angola_09.jpg

mossant angola_11.jpg

mossant angola_12.jpg
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,816
Location
Denmark
From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

mossant angola_01.jpg

mossant angola_02.jpg

mossant angola_03.jpg

mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg

mossant angola_07.jpg

mossant angola_08.jpg

mossant angola_09.jpg

mossant angola_11.jpg

mossant angola_12.jpg
Super colour, shape, ribbon and bow, Stefan.
PM on its way.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

mossant angola_01.jpg

mossant angola_02.jpg

mossant angola_03.jpg

mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg

mossant angola_07.jpg

mossant angola_08.jpg

mossant angola_09.jpg

mossant angola_11.jpg

mossant angola_12.jpg


Now THAT’S my kind of homburg! Great find, Stefan.
 
Messages
11,635
T
From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

mossant angola_01.jpg

mossant angola_02.jpg

mossant angola_03.jpg

mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg

mossant angola_07.jpg

mossant angola_08.jpg

mossant angola_09.jpg

mossant angola_11.jpg

mossant angola_12.jpg
Tremendous proportions
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
Here is a quick comparison between homburg hats. By coincidence I have three French homburg hats sitting on the hat stretcher. From top to bottom: Mossant (brown), Laubin (grey) and Berteil (grey). The Berteil was made by Moores of Stockport, England, so strictly not French, but that's not the point.
What I wanted to point out was where they are different. From top to bottom you can see subtle but clear difference in the width of the brim. The Berteil ont he bottom has the narrowest brim at 5cm, the Laubin has a brim of 5,5cm and the Mossant has a brim a hair short of 6,5cm. Most common for a homburg is a brim width of 6cm.
Also noticeable is how they differ in the way the brim curves, with the Berteil having a fairly straight brim, the Laubin shows a bit more curve front to back and the Mossant has a quite pronounced and flamboyant curve in the brim. They don't differ much in height: both the Mossant and the Laubin are 11cm at the center dent. The Berteil is slightly lower with 10,5cm at the center dent.
And as a final observation there's a difference in the way the crowns are curved. The Mossant has the least taper (maybe even an ever so slight reverse taper), the Laubin has a bit more and the Berteil has the most pronounced taper and curve to the crown.
These things are not a trivial matter: the proportions make the Mossant an imposing hat, the Laubin is classic and stylish and the Berteil light and modern.

IMG_4109.jpg

IMG_4110.jpg



Berteil
berteil moores_04.jpg

berteil moores_06.jpg



Laubin
laubin brosson_04.jpg

laubin brosson_06.jpg



Mossant
mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,816
Location
Denmark
Here is a quick comparison between homburg hats. By coincidence I have three French homburg hats sitting on the hat stretcher. From top to bottom: Mossant (brown), Laubin (grey) and Berteil (grey). The Berteil was made by Moores of Stockport, England, so strictly not French, but that's not the point.
What I wanted to point out was where they are different. From top to bottom you can see subtle but clear difference in the width of the brim. The Berteil ont he bottom has the narrowest brim at 5cm, the Laubin has a brim of 5,5cm and the Mossant has a brim a hair short of 6,5cm. Most common for a homburg is a brim width of 6cm.
Also noticeable is how they differ in the way the brim curves, with the Berteil having a fairly straight brim, the Laubin shows a bit more curve front to back and the Mossant has a quite pronounced and flamboyant curve in the brim. They don't differ much in height: both the Mossant and the Laubin are 11cm at the center dent. The Berteil is slightly lower with 10,5cm at the center dent.
And as a final observation there's a difference in the way the crowns are curved. The Mossant has the least taper (maybe even an ever so slight reverse taper), the Laubin has a bit more and the Berteil has the most pronounced taper and curve to the crown.
These things are not a trivial matter: the proportions make the Mossant an imposing hat, the Laubin is classic and stylish and the Berteil light and modern.

IMG_4109.jpg

IMG_4110.jpg



Berteil
berteil moores_04.jpg

berteil moores_06.jpg



Laubin
laubin brosson_04.jpg

laubin brosson_06.jpg



Mossant
mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg
Great and interesting comparisons, Stefan. Also, very useful when explaining to people why one needs so many hats :)
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
From a homburg with modest proportions to one with an imposing presence.
Mossant homburg in dark brown colour, called "angola" on the label. Unlined in a size 57 with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sweatband is unusual on this one, because it is both textured (we see this on older hats) and has a thin coating of felt on the inside, which I have not seen before. I'm thinking this is forties, but could be slightly older. It has some battle scars, but because of the colour they're hardly noticeable in real life.

mossant angola_01.jpg

mossant angola_02.jpg

mossant angola_03.jpg

mossant angola_04.jpg

mossant angola_06.jpg

mossant angola_07.jpg

mossant angola_08.jpg

mossant angola_09.jpg

mossant angola_11.jpg

mossant angola_12.jpg
Stefan, Really fantastic!
 

The Shoe

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,145
Location
Wakayama, Japan
With the arrival of my second Homburg, I guess it’s time I contributed to this thread.
My first was a black on black Brummel’s that I purchased from Stefan @steur.
D4195DC0-8831-4022-A246-549D0070CD66.jpeg
2CF13440-CAF6-4688-A0AC-D758540F32FF.jpeg

My second, a Dobbs, arrived today from Brent @deadlyhandsome. It’s a very dark blue with purple ribbon and brim binding.
77BA34A2-9B85-4E96-AD2E-F0DD731F0969.jpeg
86DDC556-4E4A-4ACF-8F43-4F97F4B44978.jpeg

My first impression was that the Dobbs is a less imposing hat that would be an easier one to wear regularly, but placing them side by side, they actually have very similar dimensions. The Brummel’s has a wider centre dent and the Dobbs a little more curl on the brim. Along with the less formal colour, I guess it’s these factors that make the Dobbs seem less imposing.
The brim felt feels very similar, but the crown on the Dobbs is softer and will take pinches without steam.
Here’s a colour comparison, but I think this may be more pronounced in daylight.
01F1520F-8187-4BC8-99B9-DD7023828D22.jpeg
 

Steve1857

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,816
Location
Denmark
With the arrival of my second Homburg, I guess it’s time I contributed to this thread.
My first was a black on black Brummel’s that I purchased from Stefan @steur.
View attachment 415084 View attachment 415085
My second, a Dobbs, arrived today from Brent @deadlyhandsome. It’s a very dark blue with purple ribbon and brim binding.
View attachment 415087 View attachment 415088
My first impression was that the Dobbs is a less imposing hat that would be an easier one to wear regularly, but placing them side by side, they actually have very similar dimensions. The Brummel’s has a wider centre dent and the Dobbs a little more curl on the brim. Along with the less formal colour, I guess it’s these factors that make the Dobbs seem less imposing.
The brim felt feels very similar, but the crown on the Dobbs is softer and will take pinches without steam.
Here’s a colour comparison, but I think this may be more pronounced in daylight.
View attachment 415091
Welcome to the Nation, Gary. You've entered in style. Two great looking Homburgs.
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
With the arrival of my second Homburg, I guess it’s time I contributed to this thread.
My first was a black on black Brummel’s that I purchased from Stefan @steur.
View attachment 415084 View attachment 415085
My second, a Dobbs, arrived today from Brent @deadlyhandsome. It’s a very dark blue with purple ribbon and brim binding.
View attachment 415087 View attachment 415088
My first impression was that the Dobbs is a less imposing hat that would be an easier one to wear regularly, but placing them side by side, they actually have very similar dimensions. The Brummel’s has a wider centre dent and the Dobbs a little more curl on the brim. Along with the less formal colour, I guess it’s these factors that make the Dobbs seem less imposing.
The brim felt feels very similar, but the crown on the Dobbs is softer and will take pinches without steam.
Here’s a colour comparison, but I think this may be more pronounced in daylight.
View attachment 415091
I thought you were a nation member already, Gary! Careful though: homburgs are very addictive, especially if you've been in contact with such nice examples as you have!
 

The Shoe

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,145
Location
Wakayama, Japan
I thought you were a nation member already, Gary! Careful though: homburgs are very addictive, especially if you've been in contact with such nice examples as you have!
It was remiss of me not to post the Brummel’s here when I first got it from you.
I know how you love homburgs. I think to me, you will always be the Homburg guy. Just like @johnnycanuck is the Akubra guy, @quikrick is the Pork Pie guy, @Blare is the stingy guy (wrt brims!) and @Daniele Tanto is the heathered felt guy. Just shows how first impressions stick. I suspect there might be a few members who joined in the last year who think of me as the Hornskov guy.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,009
Messages
3,072,591
Members
54,037
Latest member
GloriaJama
Top