Hidden in Plain Schott: the 613SH Perfecto

[Observe]

Here's a couple pics of my P613S in size L. Can you tell me if this is a "long" style based on the pictures and measurements? View attachment 525384 View attachment 525385 View attachment 525386 View attachment 525387

Here's a couple fit pics of me in the same jacket:

Opinions on fit?

 

[Aloysius]

Will do tomorrow when I'm back home.

Also worth checking out is the 613UHT, made from beautiful Italian horsehide. Much cheaper yet equally nice as the Shinki 613sjh.

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To bring it full circle, this jacket is the JDM version of the 613SH.

 

[Marc mndt]

Would be great if you could measure your 42 and compare to the size chart. Would be really helpful for people interested in this jacket.

The size chart is totally off. According to the chart my size 42 should have a ptp of 53 cm which is just short of 21". It 's actually 23.25" which is what I'd call a regular size 42 ptp. What's slightly small is the shoulder width at 18" yet it doesn't feel that small. The sleeves feel slightly narrow at elbow height but maybe that's because the shinki isn't broken in yet. I'm quite happy with the back length at 24.5" as I hate elongated mc jackets. Overall I'd say this pattern fits true to size.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I was looking at the Perfecto labels through the years, and have a question:

Why is the 60s Perfecto (613US) so popular? Over say the previous Perfectos or the latter ones? Was it just pop cultural or something else?

 

[AHP91]

I was looking at the Perfecto labels through the years, and have a question:

Why is the 60s Perfecto (613US) so popular? Over say the previous Perfectos or the latter ones? Was it just pop cultural or something else?

It is my understanding that Perfectos in the late 50s early 60s are generally considered toward the "peak" of Schott Perfecto craftmanship. I believe I've heard that quality tended to decline in the 70s and 80s, with the rising popularity of the jacket and the demand to keep up with sales. Combined with cultural ties and the rarity of these earlier labels, jackets of this era are sought after today.

I'm sure one of these other experts have a more detailed understanding of the ins and outs of this, but this is my current understanding of the situation.

 

[Aloysius]

The size chart is totally off. According to the chart my size 42 should have a ptp of 53 cm which is just short of 21". It 's actually 23.25" which is what I'd call a regular size 42 ptp. What's slightly small is the shoulder width at 18" yet it doesn't feel that small. The sleeves feel slightly narrow at elbow height but maybe that's because the shinki isn't broken in yet. I'm quite happy with the back length at 24.5" as I hate elongated mc jackets. Overall I'd say this pattern fits true to size.


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Identical measurements to the 613S(H), which should help prospective buyers.

I was looking at the Perfecto labels through the years, and have a question:

Why is the 60s Perfecto (613US) so popular? Over say the previous Perfectos or the latter ones? Was it just pop cultural or something else?

The -US model isn’t quite a repro of the 60s models. The American -S/SH actually goes further by reproducing the labels of that time.

It has the miter buckle, but that was a feature from the 50s until the 80s. Likewise it lacks the underarm footballs introduced in the 80s. So really you could say it’s just a general ‘retro’ Perfecto, as the jacket remained pretty similar through this whole period except for instance the move from horse to steer or the switch from diamond to ring pulls on the pocket zips.

As for pop culture, they do coincide with the emergence in 60s/70s New York of what would later be called punk rock. Certainly this is what drew me to the Perfecto. But like I said it really is a more general design.

 

[jeo]

The size chart is totally off. According to the chart my size 42 should have a ptp of 53 cm which is just short of 21". It 's actually 23.25" which is what I'd call a regular size 42 ptp. What's slightly small is the shoulder width at 18" yet it doesn't feel that small. The sleeves feel slightly narrow at elbow height but maybe that's because the shinki isn't broken in yet. I'm quite happy with the back length at 24.5" as I hate elongated mc jackets. Overall I'd say this pattern fits true to size.


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Thanks man this is really helpful. I kind of figured their measurements are off, but this confirms it for me. I’d definitely be a 36 in this jacket.

 

[Aloysius]

Thanks man this is really helpful. I kind of figured their measurements are off, but this confirms it for me. I’d definitely be a 36 in this jacket.

Ding dong, the old pattern is dead!

 

[jeo]

I was looking at the Perfecto labels through the years, and have a question:

Why is the 60s Perfecto (613US) so popular? Over say the previous Perfectos or the latter ones? Was it just pop cultural or something else?

Because it’s considered “the original”, although it’s not a repro of the 60’s jackets.

Here’s a repro of the late 50’s early 60’s. This was a limited edition. I know they made more with the repro ribbon tag.

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/j1095010151?conversionType=buyee_top_browsing_history

Here are two listings of the repro of the 60’s cactus tag, labeled 613XX

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/o1092060782

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d1087077134

 

[Aloysius]

Because it’s considered “the original”, although it’s not a repro of the 60’s jackets.

Here’s a repro of the late 50’s early 60’s. This was a limited edition. I know they made more with the repro ribbon tag.

http://[URL]https://buyee.jp/item/y...151?conversionType=buyee_top_browsing_history

[/URL]

Here are two listings of the repro of the 60’s cactus tag, labeled 613XX

http://[URL]https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/o1092060782

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d1087077134

[/URL]

I have one of the factory samples of the ribbon tag repro. Very cool jacket even though it doesn't quite fit me. Definitely the coolest label.

 

[hondurasdave47]

So, how do we petition Jason Schott to release the 613SJH outside of Japan?

 

[Aloysius]

So, how do we petition Jason Schott to release the 613SJH outside of Japan?

Wouldn't be surprised if something in that direction were underway, considering the SH now has the repro hardware of the UHT and SJH and those jackets now have the superior pattern of the SH. Some consolidation going on, in a good way.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Not a Schott specific question, but what is the HTC brand? Hollywood Trading Company? Suppose to be LA company but charges in Euro? Also had done collab with both Schott (100 year Michael Perfecto) and Himel on their aviator. And thanks to Jeo’s previous postings there might be a ribbon label French seamed Michael coming my way, fingers crossed.

 

[handymike]

HTC is a guy in LA who makes belts and refurbishes old Boots. He has a good eye and collaborates with people he’s met at Inspiration LA.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Cool video on all the current Japanese One Stars

They offer semi custom Schotts in Japan, why not in US stores?

 

[Aloysius]

Cool video on all the current Japanese One Stars

They offer semi custom Schotts in Japan, why not in US stores?
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A few points.

Schott in the US actually used to offer a full custom service up to and including making a pattern expressly for you (the b-word without saying it!) This has been on pause for a few years now.

They'll also switch out hardware post purchase, on request (This is ongoing and I had it done myself.) They will even do things like make a full shearling liner for you etc.

But probably the biggest difference is this: Schott in Japan, when it comes to the cross-zip Perfecto styles has a far narrower range than in the US, more or less all directly hewing to the aesthetic of a 1960s 618. Where the US has at least four versions of the 613 alone, Japan has about 5 or six Schott cross zips total (all very nice ones, mind you, but generally hewing to black leather, nickel hardware, miter buckle–with some exceptions).

In the US, they are many models you can pick, so if you want a different buckle shape, brass zips vs nickel, blackened vs brass, etc those are all available as part of the existing collection.

Incidentally, I would assume that these semi-custom jackets probably arrive in Japan without their hardware, then the hardware of choice gets installed at the repair workshop Marc saw on his trip to the Schott stores there. That would be the most efficient method.

 

[TREEMAN]

What about the differences in the leather that’s offered ?

 

[Madhouse27]

My “sweet deal“ 618hh arrived on Friday. Other than a glaring issue with a pretty thin, shiny, crinkly piece of leather that was used on the collar, the rest of the jacket is downright impressive (materials and condition wise). Fit-wise there were a few issues which has led me back to the 613sh thread.

I guess my main question is whether the arm holes are higher on the 613sh than the 618hh? These ones work well on my Triumph Speedmaster with its low handlebars but I don’t think I could reach up and get something out of the cupboard with the jacket on. The armholes seem to come out a little too far down the body of the jacket. There also seems to be a bit of extra material in the low lat area of this jacket that might hopefully be a bit trimmer on the 613sh. I‘m not sure if I could go down a size from 44, but this 618HH seems to have a little extra room here and there.

 

[Aloysius]

You’ll have more ease of movement in a 613/618/118 of equivalent size to a 613S(H), but you’re going to face an initial break in period with any of the steer or horse models.

 

[Canuck Panda]

613US repro collab with HTC. Other than the HTC bits, this is the repro of the jacket from this awesome thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...star-perfecto-then-and-now-photo-heavy.96417/

More pics and words to come…