Help with choosing a leather jacket

[Seb Lucas]

A couple of subjective reactions to your jacket idea. The Al half-belt collar is very large already. I have that one and it is substantial. And why remove the half belt and replace it with a bland, three piece mall jacket back? At least get rid of that vertical seam. The back of a half-belt is one of the greatest expressions of leather tailoring. Anyway, just my reaction. If it were me, given your posts, I'd just get a Highwayman. No offence intended.

 

[MuyJingo]

Hi again MuyJingo - I have an AL Arkansas, and I would NOT recommend getting a larger collar. The standard collar is pretty big already - when I turn it up it covers the lower parts of my ears and goes halfway up the back of my head. Great for protection from the wind.

Sounds like you're doing so many customizations that it's not really going to be an Arkansas anymore - it's going to be a MuyJingo jacket!

Ahh, good to know about the collar! really didn't think it looked big at all from the picture, thanks.

I'm not trying to do too many customizations....I just want something plain/minimalist, classic yet still with an identity, if that makes sense.

But all these high quality makers don't seem to have anything like that, rather focusing on replicated specific vintage styles...

A couple of subjective reactions to your jacket idea. The Al half-belt collar is very large already. I have that one and it is substantial. And why remove the half belt and replace it with a bland, three piece mall jacket back? At least get rid of that vertical seam. The back of a half-belt is one of the greatest expressions of leather tailoring. Anyway, just my reaction. If it were me, given your posts, I'd just get a Highwayman. No offence intended.

Hey Seb, thanks, no offense taken

I probably won't be increasing the collar size now that two people who actually own it have told me it's substantial.

So, I'd appreciate if you could elaborate more on why the halfbelt is a positive thing.

As I said earlier....I don't know much about fashion, am not too concerned with vintage styles...I just want something classic/minimalist. I was very happy with my previous mall jacket, and was mainly upset that it degraded...I had no issues with the style.

I guess my reasons for removing the halfbelt are that....(keeping in mind I don't know much about this stuff), I just don't see the point of it. I don't see how it adds functionality or that it has a purpose, and don't tend to liek clothes to have things just for the sake of having them.

I didn't realize that the back I chose is a generic mall jacket back...although I don't know that that is necessarily a bad thing. Honestly, I don't understand the hate for mall jackets...just because they are not vintage designs doesn't mean they are not nice...

I chose the back because while I want a fairly simple/minimalist jacket, I would also like it to have some qualities that give it a unique character/identity.

I'd be open to other suggestions for this, especially stuff that you think would go well with the style of jacket I'm going for.

What about something like the vertical stitch lines close to the zipper ala the Inception jacket? Or the front yoke joining the seams on the arms similar to the layer cake jacket?

As for just getting a highwayman....AL doesn't seem to offer one.

 

[MuyJingo]

Also Bob, Seb, would you guys have pictures of your Arkansas jackets?

What type of fit would you say it is?

 

[ProteinNerd]

The reason the "mall jacket" back is considered inferior is by having the 3 panels, they can be manufactured with smaller, less expensive pieces of leather. Its just more a characteristic of a cheaper production process and is an easy way to spot a cheap jacket.

AL do offer a version of the Highwayman, its called a Roadster and they do it with 3 or 4 pockets as standard. It will be a boxier cut than the Arkansas though.

 

[thor]

AL calls their Highwayman the "Roadster". Same jacket design, different name.

 

[MuyJingo]

Earlier in the thread I asked if anyone had any references for explanations of jacket styles through the decades...I haven't really found anything yet.

What I mean is...do the styles reflect their names? Are the highwaymen jackets so called because highwaymen wore them? Are cafe racer jackets worn because they were used for racing?

Obviously a lot of jackets are flight or military jackets...so those ones are obvious. What about the style of jacket Fonzy or Indiana wore...what were there traditional affiliations?

The reason the "mall jacket" back is considered inferior is by having the 3 panels, they can be manufactured with smaller, less expensive pieces of leather. Its just more a characteristic of a cheaper production process and is an easy way to spot a cheap jacket.

AL do offer a version of the Highwayman, its called a Roadster and they do it with 3 or 4 pockets as standard. It will be a boxier cut than the Arkansas though.

I had heard that before that further panels indicated a lower quality jacket.

What suggestions would you have if I want a very simple jacket, but want a way to "spice it up", so to speak, to give it a bit more character?

Stitching lines was my idea, I'm not sure what else I could do...

When you say a boxier cut, do you mean it isn't a slim fit....as where the arkansas would be more of a slim fit?

 

[Seb Lucas]

Earlier in the thread I asked if anyone had any references for explanations of jacket styles through the decades...I haven't really found anything yet.

What I mean is...do the styles reflect their names? Are the highwaymen jackets so called because highwaymen wore them? Are cafe racer jackets worn because they were used for racing?

Obviously a lot of jackets are flight or military jackets...so those ones are obvious. What about the style of jacket Fonzy or Indiana wore...what were there traditional affiliations?




I had heard that before that further panels indicated a lower quality jacket.

What suggestions would you have if I want a very simple jacket, but want a way to "spice it up", so to speak, to give it a bit more character?

Stitching lines was my idea, I'm not sure what else I could do...

When you say a boxier cut, do you mean it isn't a slim fit....as where the arkansas would be more of a slim fit?

The Arkansas is a slim fit. Like the Aero 1930's half-belt. It fits tight. No room for a beer gut or broad shoulders. I had mine made with an extra 2 inches in the shoulders because I have wide shoulders. No beer gut - I drink whiskey.

You need to choose what you like so sorry if I was trying to flog a design. In terms of the art of leather jackets, the half-belt back is a thing of loveliness, but it is made up of various pieces of leather. It's traditional and for my money the best expression of the art of jacket making.

The names of jackets have no reflection on their character. They are either named after periods, factories, owners or companies.

My tip to you is to not over-think this. I would just get a stock jacket that you like the most and customize the size. Once you get it, you make it your own by wearing it.

 

[Mark]

Thanks Tropicalbob, great name , sounds like an old british bike (Aerial Star i mean but i like yours too!) I will give them a look today. Thanks again.
Mark

 

[Mark]

Thanks Edward, i'm thinking Real Deal is the one to go for. So many of you speak favourably of it.

 

[Capesofwrath]

Earlier in the thread I asked if anyone had any references for explanations of jacket styles through the decades...I haven't really found anything yet.

What I mean is...do the styles reflect their names? Are the highwaymen jackets so called because highwaymen wore them? Are cafe racer jackets worn because they were used for racing?

Obviously a lot of jackets are flight or military jackets...so those ones are obvious. What about the style of jacket Fonzy or Indiana wore...what were there traditional affiliations?




I had heard that before that further panels indicated a lower quality jacket.

What suggestions would you have if I want a very simple jacket, but want a way to "spice it up", so to speak, to give it a bit more character?

Stitching lines was my idea, I'm not sure what else I could do...

When you say a boxier cut, do you mean it isn't a slim fit....as where the arkansas would be more of a slim fit?

No Dick Turpin didn't wear a zip up jacket like that. It gets its name form a fifties British company called Highwayman who made a jacket in that style which was popular with bikers AKA ton up boys. The picture I posted showing ALs black goat is their four pocket Roadster. It runs a truer size than an Aero Highwayman which I also have, and has almost the same measurements in a 44 as the Aero has in a 42.

I think people here are trying gently to steer you away from attempting to design your own jacket from scratch. It takes a bit of experience and skill to get that right and it can go horribly wrong. Angels fear to tread...

I would buy a stock jacket or one with very few changes. Or better still look on eBay and try to pick something up there. You can sell it on at the same price and get an idea of what is going to suit you. Then buy something new having gained some experience of these sorts of jackets.

 

[MuyJingo]

The Arkansas is a slim fit. Like the Aero 1930's half-belt. It fits tight. No room for a beer gut or broad shoulders. I had mine made with an extra 2 inches in the shoulders because I have wide shoulders. No beer gut - I drink whiskey.

You need to choose what you like so sorry if I was trying to flog a design. In terms of the art of leather jackets, the half-belt back is a thing of loveliness, but it is made up of various pieces of leather. It's traditional and for my money the best expression of the art of jacket making.

The names of jackets have no reflection on their character. They are either named after periods, factories, owners or companies.

My tip to you is to not over-think this. I would just get a stock jacket that you like the most and customize the size. Once you get it, you make it your own by wearing it.

Thanks for your input. I didn't take anything you said negatively....I'm interested in everyone's opinions. So thankyou for sharing.

I don't think I'm overthinking it too much....if anything I just want to remove some features from the stock jacket, not add features.

I don't want a breast pocket of zippered/button cuffs, and then I just want something about it that makes it unique as far as stitching goes.

The inception jacket and layer cake jackets are good examples of this, IMO...

Is there any kind of stichting design modification you could suggest to a stock jacket that would be in line with my desires?

I know you've said It's better not to change anything, but I would be interested in your input regardless.

No Dick Turpin didn't wear a zip up jacket like that. It gets it's name form a fifties British company called Highwayman who made a jacket in that style which was popular with bikers AKA ton up boys. The picture I posted showing ALs black goat is their four pocket Roadster. It runs a truer size than an Aero Highwayman which I also have, and has almost the same measurements in a 44 as the Aero has in a 42.

I think people here are trying gently to steer you away from attempting to design your own jacket from scratch. It takes a bit of experience and skill to get that right and it can go horribly wrong. Angels fear to tread...

I would buy a stock jacket or one with very few changes. Or better still look on eBay and try to pick something up there. You can sell it on at the same price and get an idea of what is going to suit you. Then buy something new having gained some experience of these sorts of jackets.

I think my desired jacket..or goals in general for my jacket are contrary to most people on the forum.

I don't care about a vintage style in particular. I want something that I think looks good, that hopefully other people think looks good, that is fairly minimal while having something distinct about it.

I don't think I'm customizing too much as I'm basically just removing the breast pocket, making the cuff plain and adding a yoke to the front..maybe. I was thinking to add distinction with a pattern...

I understand when I break it in and wear it I will have made it mine....but I think the design is just a part of it's identity as how it looks when its worn in.

I'm open to suggestions for things I could change that would meet my desires without detracting from the style...

 

[MuyJingo]

What are peoples thoughts on jackets that have both a front and back yoke?

Is this generally frowned upon, or uncommon?

 

[MuyJingo]

So I just want to clarify something.

Like I said, I'm just looking for a simple, minimal jacket.

This is probably the best example I've found of what I am after.



I want it to be high quality, so I'm happy to spend more money and pay one of these high quality makers (currently 90% it will be AL) to make it.

They don't tend to have any styles as simple as that, which is where customization comes in. Even with the AL Highwayman, it would require removing pockets and lengthening at the least.

I do want to make sure that I don't do something stupid or that I will regret, hence checking with people here for advice and input.


There are some features on other jackets I wanted to ask for input on.

1st: Notice the front yoke on this jacket, it isn't just a straight line. If something liek that was added to a jacket like the Arkansas or Roadster, do you think it would work ok? If not, why not?

2nd: I quite like the stitching that is next to the zipper, ala the inception jacket. Here is a second example worn by Hugh Jackman. So, same question, do you think that would work well as a modification to a jacket like the roadster or arkansas? If not, why not? What about in conjunction with a front yoke, ala inception jacket?

And last, I am curious about the halfbelt. The halfbelt on the Aero and AL jackets seems to actually be an additional piece of leather, as where the halfbelt on this jacket...seems to just be stitched to look that way. Is that a legitimate style of healthbelt, or a cheaper imitation?


I know a lot of my questions are noob questions and potentially annoying, so I really do appreciate all of you who are answering my questions with patience and explaining things. Thank you very much.

 

[Capesofwrath]

I don't think I've seen any jacket that isn't inspired by a previous style. There really is nothing new under the sun. We just repeat ourselves.....

One of the things which I like about today's trends is that anything goes now, but still authentic styles alway stay in fashion. In the seventies for instance classic styles were turned into fashion abortions by fairly small changes. Changes which make a seventies garment stand out now as an unwearable period piece; and it doesn't take a lot either.

There are differences between some pre war styles, some of which can seem a bit vintage, and immediate pre war and post war styles. Many of which are identical in looks to the sort of jackets you can buy anywhere today.

With most design less is more I think...

Hope you find what you're looking for.

 

[Grayland]

Check this jacket out. It's a Goodwear Arcadia. I would imagine that you could request that the chest pockets be left off.

http://www.goodwearleather.com/photos/Californian_Arcadia_No1_42/Arcadia.jpg

 

[HoosierDaddy]

From most of the pics you keep putting up...your desires lean more toward the fashion jacket market. So why not just shop there?
HD

 

[MuyJingo]

From most of the pics you keep putting up...your desires lean more toward the fashion jacket market. So why not just shop there?
HD

Because as I said, I'm concerned with quality. I don't want a jacket that is going to fall apart again, and it seems getting a jacket from one of these high quality makers is the best way to ensure that.

What determines a fashion jacket from a vintage design anyway?

Is the inception jacket vintage, or fashion?

Check this jacket out. It's a Goodwear Arcadia. I would imagine that you could request that the chest pockets be left off.

http://www.goodwearleather.com/photos/Californian_Arcadia_No1_42/Arcadia.jpg

Thanks.

I like that design a lot actually, but since most of their jackets are about $1500 I'm not about to pay it.

What I would like to do is take that design without the breast pockets and apply it to something like the Arkansas....

I'm guessing that may be frowned upon by people here, but I don't think I'd understand why.

I don't think I've seen any jacket that isn't inspired by a previous style. There really is nothing new under the sun. We just repeat ourselves.....

One of the things which I like about today's trends is that anything goes now, but still authentic styles alway stay in fashion. In the seventies for instance classic styles were turned into fashion abortions by fairly small changes. Changes which make a seventies garment stand out now as an unwearable period piece; and it doesn't take a lot either.

There are differences between some pre war styles, some of which can seem a bit vintage, and immediate pre war and post war styles. Many of which are identical in looks to the sort of jackets you can buy anywhere today.

With most design less is more I think...

Hope you find what you're looking for.

Agreed....less is more. That's why I prefer to get rid of breast pockets, have a plain cuff etc.

Just wanting to add a simple tweak to give it a bit more character...something like pictured in the Goodwear jacket Grayland pictured or as seen in the Inception jacket...

Would you have any suggestions along those lines of what might work well as a customization?

 

[gtdean48]

...
I think my desired jacket..or goals in general for my jacket are contrary to most people on the forum.
...

I think you made a very astute observation here.

 

[nick123]

Get out a sketchbook, draw what you want, and Johnson Leathers will make it.

 

[MuyJingo]

I think you made a very astute observation here.

It's not hard....vintage stuff is the fixation here, and I said from the start I didn't want to limit myself to vintage styles.

I don't see the point....but that's me.