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Help with choosing a leather jacket

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
Thanks guys, useful info. I think my budget may determin who i go with for an A2, so that counts out Good wear and any of the U.S makers. Reading other threads it seem ELC jackets are too roomy. I have been considering Aero's Real Deal jacket simply cos its the cheapest! With regards sizing could you not simply go with your next size-up? I briefly had an Aero 38 contract (i think it was) from their sale page. it was in my normal size but was so tight under the arm and accross the shoulders it made it unwearable. Shame as it was a lovely jacket.

Mark

I'd email Aero or give them a buzz Mark. I think the Real Deal is a great looking jacket. If you're not after a stitch for stitch replica of an actual contract it's definitely worth considering.

The BK "House" A-2 looks good as well - got my eyes on one of those myself actually.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,078
Location
London, UK
I think if I was looking for a new A2 at this point, the REal Deal is the one I'd go for - great, generic period look without beng specific to any one contract, reasonable price, across the grander sceheme of things.

The size you need in an A2 will definitely vary with the cut. My 42 contract is just a snug fit on me in a size 42; the earlier contracts, which are less generously cut, would definitely require me to go up to a 44. You'll probably find that some ctracts fit your own body-shape better than others.

FWIW, early on ELC had a reputation for being a bit blousey, but I gather than in recent years they have become more accurate to the original cuts. My Roughwear is certainly a fairly trim fit.
 

MuyJingo

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
nyc
Hi Guys,

I'm very close to choosing my final design for my new jacket, and would appreciate some feedback.

I would like to note I'm not concerned with hisotrical authenticity and just want a design I'm happy with, but would like to avoid general "no no's" or bad design decisions.

I'm planning to start with the Arkansas jacket from Alexander Leathers with customizations : http://www.alexanderleathers.com/vintageclassics/arkansas.html

arkansas_black_jerky_2_.jpg

Customizations would be as follows:

Remove the halfbelt aspect of the back, and have the back look like this instead:

2013-10-24 14_40_45-p1036142.png (PNG Image, 451 × 490 pixels).jpg

Also no straps on the sides for tighetning

Back would be bi-swing.

I would want a bigger collar, something like the following:

collar.jpg

Or perhaps Like the Surrogates jacket: http://www.filmjackets.com/FILM_JACKETS/surrogates/surrogates-001.jpg

Have a yoke on the front (I think I'm using that terminolgy correctly) similar to the Cropduster from Aero

2013-10-24 14_48_47-CROPDUSTER.jpg

Additionally:

No breast pocket
Slightly more angled handwarmer pockets
No button or strap on sleeve cuff
Thinner piece of leather for inside pocket to alleviate any showing through down the road.
Silver zips instead of Brass, although I'm not sure AL have these.

This would be in black goatskin or black jerky horse.

What do you guys think?

Any suggestions or improvements you might make?
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,425
Location
Glasgow
I recall schitzo got AL to build an inside pocket using just cloth - similar to a shirt pocket construction - rather than the standard leather opening, which would avoid the pocket issue.
 

MuyJingo

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
nyc
I recall schitzo got AL to build an inside pocket using just cloth - similar to a shirt pocket construction - rather than the standard leather opening, which would avoid the pocket issue.

I think that's what my last jacket had...what is the advantage of using a piece of leather for the pocket as opposed to just cloth?
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,425
Location
Glasgow
I think the leather one is just more robust. In schitzo's case, the pocket was 'built' on to the lining, rather than cutting an opening in it and inserting the pocket. This is it:

 

wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
To be fair, I'd say that's a good option if you don't want to go the full leather pocket route. Or, of course, a shirt with pockets.
 

IXL

One Too Many
Messages
1,284
Location
Oklahoma
The collar on the Arkansas looks about as large as that shown on the others. You might want to reconsider enlarging it, unless you are going for the '70's disco look. AL should be able to tell you just how large it actually is.
Good luck on your purchase!
 

MuyJingo

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
nyc
The collar on the Arkansas looks about as large as that shown on the others. You might want to reconsider enlarging it, unless you are going for the '70's disco look. AL should be able to tell you just how large it actually is.
Good luck on your purchase!

Hmm, to my eye it looked smaller but I will ask for measurements.

I don't want a disco 70's look, but I do like it a little bit larger than it looks in the pic...
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,425
Location
Glasgow
Appearances can be deceptive Generally, when it comes to proportions I wouldn't mess around too much with a first jacket - the vintage styles look cool as they are, that's why they remain popular. I almost ordered my jacket with 'Japanese fit' narrow sleeves, but, thankfully, that option was cancelled because the standard fit was more than slim-enough.
 

MuyJingo

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
nyc
Appearances can be deceptive Generally, when it comes to proportions I wouldn't mess around too much with a first jacket - the vintage styles look cool as they are, that's why they remain popular. I almost ordered my jacket with 'Japanese fit' narrow sleeves, but, thankfully, that option was cancelled because the standard fit was more than slim-enough.

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind. Asking for the collar measurements for the arkansas and a few other jackets should clear things up.

I'm not too concerned with vintage styles though. There are in fact a bunch of mall jackets, or jackets from various designers that I like more..., it just happens that the style I want is pretty minimal so I can get something high quality and get something customized pretty easily.

Any other comments on the yoke or anything like that?
 

MuyJingo

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
nyc
For the type of collar or look I had in mind, look at Johnny Depps photo here

RememberWhen_Moss_Depp.jpg

The collar on the arkansas seems a lot more narrow to my eye...but I'm not sure.
 

IXL

One Too Many
Messages
1,284
Location
Oklahoma
I think Depp's collar actually fits right in with the others. It appears wider for two reasons. Firstly, it is rolled out: take a look at the zipper just under the collar: it is splayed out as well and isn't vertical. Secondly, Depp is wearing an inner jacket, which also features a collar, beneath the leather one. This jacket's collar is overlapping the leather one. If Depp were to zip up his leather jacket I believe it would appear much smaller.
HER jacket, on the other hand........
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
Hi Guys,

I'm planning to start with the Arkansas jacket from Alexander Leathers with customizations

Customizations would be as follows:

Remove the halfbelt aspect of the back, and have the back look like this instead:

Also no straps on the sides for tighetning

Back would be bi-swing.

I would want a bigger collar, something like the following:

Or perhaps Like the Surrogates jacket:

Have a yoke on the front (I think I'm using that terminolgy correctly) similar to the Cropduster from Aero

Additionally:

No breast pocket
Slightly more angled handwarmer pockets
No button or strap on sleeve cuff
Thinner piece of leather for inside pocket to alleviate any showing through down the road.
Silver zips instead of Brass, although I'm not sure AL have these.

This would be in black goatskin or black jerky horse.

What do you guys think?

Any suggestions or improvements you might make?

If you’re planning this level of changes then I think you will have to go with AL as I believe they allow a far wider range of customisation than Aero do nowadays.

In terms of the collar, I’d have a chat with AL about it but also bear in mind what the other guys here have pointed out. Leather jacket collars also tend to “relax” after some wear usually meaning they sit down and splay out a little more.
 

tropicalbob

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,954
Location
miami, fl
Mark,
Has anyone mentioned Aerial Star to you? They're a new company out of N.Y. specializing in A2's The quality looks fine, the prices are extremely competitive, and the customer service first rate. In fact, there's someone on another thread waiting on a delivery right now, and who should have pictures up in the next few days. You might want to check them out.
 

MuyJingo

One of the Regulars
Messages
142
Location
nyc
I think Depp's collar actually fits right in with the others. It appears wider for two reasons. Firstly, it is rolled out: take a look at the zipper just under the collar: it is splayed out as well and isn't vertical. Secondly, Depp is wearing an inner jacket, which also features a collar, beneath the leather one. This jacket's collar is overlapping the leather one. If Depp were to zip up his leather jacket I believe it would appear much smaller.
HER jacket, on the other hand........

Well, the other two collar pictures are from other jackets on the AL site, where they do look a lot larger...

This one as well looks larger to me than the one on the arkansas: http://www.passionforsavings.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/481.jpg

If you’re planning this level of changes then I think you will have to go with AL as I believe they allow a far wider range of customization than Aero do nowadays.

In terms of the collar, I’d have a chat with AL about it but also bear in mind what the other guys here have pointed out. Leather jacket collars also tend to “relax” after some wear usually meaning they sit down and splay out a little more.

Yep, definitely going with AL. Aero being more expensive and not willing to do customizations doesn't make them attractive to me. The other makers either have a ridiculous wait time, seem overpriced, or don't have the hides I am interested in.

I'll definitely discuss it with AL before making any changes, but so far it seems most of the vintage styles have narrower collars, which I don't like as much..
 

BobJ

Practically Family
Messages
609
Location
Coos Bay, OR
Hi again MuyJingo - I have an AL Arkansas, and I would NOT recommend getting a larger collar. The standard collar is pretty big already - when I turn it up it covers the lower parts of my ears and goes halfway up the back of my head. Great for protection from the wind.

Sounds like you're doing so many customizations that it's not really going to be an Arkansas anymore - it's going to be a MuyJingo jacket! :)
 

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