Help with choosing a leather jacket

[Smithy]

Thanks guys, useful info. I think my budget may determin who i go with for an A2, so that counts out Good wear and any of the U.S makers. Reading other threads it seem ELC jackets are too roomy. I have been considering Aero's Real Deal jacket simply cos its the cheapest! With regards sizing could you not simply go with your next size-up? I briefly had an Aero 38 contract (i think it was) from their sale page. it was in my normal size but was so tight under the arm and accross the shoulders it made it unwearable. Shame as it was a lovely jacket.

Mark

I'd email Aero or give them a buzz Mark. I think the Real Deal is a great looking jacket. If you're not after a stitch for stitch replica of an actual contract it's definitely worth considering.

The BK "House" A-2 looks good as well - got my eyes on one of those myself actually.

 

[Mark]

Thanks smithy.
Mark

 

[Edward]

I think if I was looking for a new A2 at this point, the REal Deal is the one I'd go for - great, generic period look without beng specific to any one contract, reasonable price, across the grander sceheme of things.

The size you need in an A2 will definitely vary with the cut. My 42 contract is just a snug fit on me in a size 42; the earlier contracts, which are less generously cut, would definitely require me to go up to a 44. You'll probably find that some ctracts fit your own body-shape better than others.

FWIW, early on ELC had a reputation for being a bit blousey, but I gather than in recent years they have become more accurate to the original cuts. My Roughwear is certainly a fairly trim fit.

 

[MuyJingo]

Hi Guys,

I'm very close to choosing my final design for my new jacket, and would appreciate some feedback.

I would like to note I'm not concerned with hisotrical authenticity and just want a design I'm happy with, but would like to avoid general "no no's" or bad design decisions.

I'm planning to start with the Arkansas jacket from Alexander Leathers with customizations : http://www.alexanderleathers.com/vintageclassics/arkansas.html



Customizations would be as follows:

Remove the halfbelt aspect of the back, and have the back look like this instead:



Also no straps on the sides for tighetning

Back would be bi-swing.

I would want a bigger collar, something like the following:



Or perhaps Like the Surrogates jacket: http://www.filmjackets.com/FILM_JACKETS/surrogates/surrogates-001.jpg

Have a yoke on the front (I think I'm using that terminolgy correctly) similar to the Cropduster from Aero



Additionally:

No breast pocket
Slightly more angled handwarmer pockets
No button or strap on sleeve cuff
Thinner piece of leather for inside pocket to alleviate any showing through down the road.
Silver zips instead of Brass, although I'm not sure AL have these.

This would be in black goatskin or black jerky horse.

What do you guys think?

Any suggestions or improvements you might make?

 

[Sloan1874]

I recall schitzo got AL to build an inside pocket using just cloth - similar to a shirt pocket construction - rather than the standard leather opening, which would avoid the pocket issue.

 

[MuyJingo]

I recall schitzo got AL to build an inside pocket using just cloth - similar to a shirt pocket construction - rather than the standard leather opening, which would avoid the pocket issue.

I think that's what my last jacket had...what is the advantage of using a piece of leather for the pocket as opposed to just cloth?

 

[Sloan1874]

I think the leather one is just more robust. In schitzo's case, the pocket was 'built' on to the lining, rather than cutting an opening in it and inserting the pocket. This is it:

 

[wdw]

To be fair, I'd say that's a good option if you don't want to go the full leather pocket route. Or, of course, a shirt with pockets.

 

[handymike]

I like Schitzo's solution, but you could finish it off with some kind of button closure.

 

[IXL]

The collar on the Arkansas looks about as large as that shown on the others. You might want to reconsider enlarging it, unless you are going for the '70's disco look. AL should be able to tell you just how large it actually is.
Good luck on your purchase!

 

[simonc]

I like Schitzo's pocket too but its not big enough for his nintendo 3DS though so I dunno why he got it?

 

[MuyJingo]

The collar on the Arkansas looks about as large as that shown on the others. You might want to reconsider enlarging it, unless you are going for the '70's disco look. AL should be able to tell you just how large it actually is.
Good luck on your purchase!

Hmm, to my eye it looked smaller but I will ask for measurements.

I don't want a disco 70's look, but I do like it a little bit larger than it looks in the pic...

 

[Sloan1874]

Appearances can be deceptive Generally, when it comes to proportions I wouldn't mess around too much with a first jacket - the vintage styles look cool as they are, that's why they remain popular. I almost ordered my jacket with 'Japanese fit' narrow sleeves, but, thankfully, that option was cancelled because the standard fit was more than slim-enough.

 

[MuyJingo]

Appearances can be deceptive Generally, when it comes to proportions I wouldn't mess around too much with a first jacket - the vintage styles look cool as they are, that's why they remain popular. I almost ordered my jacket with 'Japanese fit' narrow sleeves, but, thankfully, that option was cancelled because the standard fit was more than slim-enough.

Hmm, I'll keep that in mind. Asking for the collar measurements for the arkansas and a few other jackets should clear things up.

I'm not too concerned with vintage styles though. There are in fact a bunch of mall jackets, or jackets from various designers that I like more..., it just happens that the style I want is pretty minimal so I can get something high quality and get something customized pretty easily.

Any other comments on the yoke or anything like that?

 

[MuyJingo]

For the type of collar or look I had in mind, look at Johnny Depps photo here



The collar on the arkansas seems a lot more narrow to my eye...but I'm not sure.

 

[IXL]

I think Depp's collar actually fits right in with the others. It appears wider for two reasons. Firstly, it is rolled out: take a look at the zipper just under the collar: it is splayed out as well and isn't vertical. Secondly, Depp is wearing an inner jacket, which also features a collar, beneath the leather one. This jacket's collar is overlapping the leather one. If Depp were to zip up his leather jacket I believe it would appear much smaller.
HER jacket, on the other hand........

 

[Smithy]

Hi Guys,

I'm planning to start with the Arkansas jacket from Alexander Leathers with customizations

Customizations would be as follows:

Remove the halfbelt aspect of the back, and have the back look like this instead:

Also no straps on the sides for tighetning

Back would be bi-swing.

I would want a bigger collar, something like the following:

Or perhaps Like the Surrogates jacket:

Have a yoke on the front (I think I'm using that terminolgy correctly) similar to the Cropduster from Aero

Additionally:

No breast pocket
Slightly more angled handwarmer pockets
No button or strap on sleeve cuff
Thinner piece of leather for inside pocket to alleviate any showing through down the road.
Silver zips instead of Brass, although I'm not sure AL have these.

This would be in black goatskin or black jerky horse.

What do you guys think?

Any suggestions or improvements you might make?

If you’re planning this level of changes then I think you will have to go with AL as I believe they allow a far wider range of customisation than Aero do nowadays.

In terms of the collar, I’d have a chat with AL about it but also bear in mind what the other guys here have pointed out. Leather jacket collars also tend to “relax” after some wear usually meaning they sit down and splay out a little more.

 

[tropicalbob]

Mark,
Has anyone mentioned Aerial Star to you? They're a new company out of N.Y. specializing in A2's The quality looks fine, the prices are extremely competitive, and the customer service first rate. In fact, there's someone on another thread waiting on a delivery right now, and who should have pictures up in the next few days. You might want to check them out.

 

[MuyJingo]

I think Depp's collar actually fits right in with the others. It appears wider for two reasons. Firstly, it is rolled out: take a look at the zipper just under the collar: it is splayed out as well and isn't vertical. Secondly, Depp is wearing an inner jacket, which also features a collar, beneath the leather one. This jacket's collar is overlapping the leather one. If Depp were to zip up his leather jacket I believe it would appear much smaller.
HER jacket, on the other hand........

Well, the other two collar pictures are from other jackets on the AL site, where they do look a lot larger...

This one as well looks larger to me than the one on the arkansas: http://www.passionforsavings.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/481.jpg

If you’re planning this level of changes then I think you will have to go with AL as I believe they allow a far wider range of customization than Aero do nowadays.

In terms of the collar, I’d have a chat with AL about it but also bear in mind what the other guys here have pointed out. Leather jacket collars also tend to “relax” after some wear usually meaning they sit down and splay out a little more.

Yep, definitely going with AL. Aero being more expensive and not willing to do customizations doesn't make them attractive to me. The other makers either have a ridiculous wait time, seem overpriced, or don't have the hides I am interested in.

I'll definitely discuss it with AL before making any changes, but so far it seems most of the vintage styles have narrower collars, which I don't like as much..

 

[BobJ]

Hi again MuyJingo - I have an AL Arkansas, and I would NOT recommend getting a larger collar. The standard collar is pretty big already - when I turn it up it covers the lower parts of my ears and goes halfway up the back of my head. Great for protection from the wind.

Sounds like you're doing so many customizations that it's not really going to be an Arkansas anymore - it's going to be a MuyJingo jacket!