Help with choosing a leather jacket

[Sloan1874]

Aero's Pioneer is effectively a 40s half-belt with a front yoke. http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=1920

 

[MuyJingo]

Aeros.....Highwayman= boxy cut : 50s halfbelt= quite boxy: 30s halfbelt =not boxy.

and really MJ, don't worry about cording or not cording or getting "a dog's dinner"...as long as you like it and the people you know think it's cool, and it lasts a thousand years..what the hell ? It's just a jacket ...stop worrying.....

Heh, thanks

I think I'm going to stick with the 30's halfbelt, due to the slimmer fit.

Aside from removing the breast pocket and having plain cuffs, the only modifications I'm going to make will be a front yoke and/or cording.

Basically something like the inception jacket without the breast pocket.

So now it becomes an issue of what cording and yokes to add, and that's it.

Almost there.....

 

[ProteinNerd]

What are peoples thoughts on jackets that have both a front and back yoke?

Is this generally frowned upon, or uncommon?

My teamster has both a front and a back yoke...I think it looks great. It obviously has buttons instead of a zip but have you considered it at all?

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=369

The reason I ask is because the Cobb/Inception jacket that you have mentioned a number of times is a "longer in the body style" closer imo to a teamster or long half belt. In the photo below you can see Di Caprio's jacket is definitely a bit longer sitting a few inches below the belt while Levitt's sitting right on the belt is closer to the length of a typical half belt or highwayman.

 

[Sloan1874]

I like the Inception jackets. Were they done by Aero a few years back?
Was it a Ken design?

I think Joseph Gordon-Levitt's was a straight ahead Aero half-belt, I'm not sure about Leo's - there seems to be some discussion as to whether it was an Aero as it would have been done under the old regime.

 

[MuyJingo]

My teamster has both a front and a back yoke...I think it looks great. It obviously has buttons instead of a zip but have you considered it at all?

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=369

The reason I ask is because the Cobb/Inception jacket that you have mentioned a number of times is a "longer in the body style". In the photo below you can see Di Caprio's jacket is longer sitting a few inches below the belt while Levitt's is closer to the length of a typical half belt or highwayman.

Hi, thanks!

I did look at the teamster back when I was overwhelemed with all the possible styles on the Aero homepage...

I dismissed it initially as I didn't think they would replace buttons with a zip..

I do want a longer in the body style, similar to Leo's, but I had thought a teamster jacket was a lot longer, maybe another 2 or 3 inches to how Leo's looks in that picture...

I'm going with AL because of the customizations...and was planning just to add length to the 30's halfbelt...

Is there any historical meaning or purpose to yokes, or is it just an aesthetic fashion choice?

 

[ProteinNerd]

OK, Just found this for you.



So the back of the inception jacket is a half belt, with what looks like an action back. So its basically a teamster with a zipper instead of buttons or a long half belt with no breast or flap pockets and a front yoke instead.

Not sure if Aero would do that level of customising these days but AL do have their version called a long rider. Might be a good base to start with and I'm sure they would be happy to customise what you want.

I had my teamster made a bit longer to my specification so it is a bit longer than Leo's jacket, not sure what the standard length would be, I'm sure altering the length by 1-2 inches wouldn't be an issue at all.

 

[MuyJingo]

I am wondering if somebody could explain why the halfbelt on this jacket looks different:



The halfbelt does not seem to be raised as much.

Is this because it isn't actually a halfbelt and is just imitating the design, or something else?

 

[MuyJingo]

OK, Just found this for you.



So the back of the inception jacket is a half belt, with what looks like an action back. So its basically a teamster with a zipper instead of buttons or a long half belt with no breast or flap pockets and a front yoke instead.

Not sure if Aero would do that level of customising these days but AL do have their version called a long rider. Might be a good base to start with and I'm sure they would be happy to customise what you want.

Hmmm, thanks.

I wasn't considering the long rider or the teamster because I thought they were a lot longer, more like this length:



But if they are the length of Leo's as shown in the picture then they are an attractive option...

 

[handymike]

Di Caprio's is cut more like my Hercules surcoat (27" long down the back). JGL's jacket looks more 50s inspired with the false cuffs and no chest zip.

 

[Sloan1874]

The Long Half-Belt is a mid-length zippered surcoat (I think that's what Dinerman describes it as) very similar to DeCaprio's. It comes with a bi-swing as standard. My Aero one is about slim fitting as I think you'd want for this style - AL make a similar one, though you'd probably want to wipe the cargo pockets and breast pocket off it though and add the yoke. That could look pretty nice.

 

[ProteinNerd]

You'd have to ask them what the standard length is for your size and then alter it if needed. I specified mine to be 30 inches at the back (I'm 5'11") from the start and never really asked for what the standard length would be and its a bit shorter than the pic you posted above, just short of covering my bum completely. I'm guessing maybe 3-4 inches shorter and it would be about the length of Leo's.

Personally, I'd look into button cuffs (like the Aero half belts) on the AL jacket rather than the standard storm cuffs it appears to come with...but thats just me.

 

[handymike]

Drifter with yokes, and no flaps or chest pocket would just about do it...

 

[wdw]

FWIW a 40" Teamster has a back length of 28", so not that long, and certainly not as long, or as wide, as that brown VDR-alike above.

 

[gtdean48]

The AL Spiegel has your cord piping feature. They would probably make it shorter without breast pocket & change the pockets to slash handwarmers....http://www.alexanderleathers.com/vintageclassics/spiegel.html

 

[MuyJingo]

So many options...just as I thought I was 90% there...

Thank you everyone....now I just have to review and see which jacket is cloest to what I want...and then probably add the inception cording to it.

Could anyone elaborate on the halfbelt from the filmjackets website...It's kind of perplexing me if it considered a halfbelt or not.

FWIW a 40" Teamster has a back length of 28", so not that long, and certainly not as long, or as wide, as that brown VDR-alike above.

Thanks. So Leo's jacket above could certainly be a modified teamster style jacket, at least as far as length goes?

 

[wdw]

Yeah, a Teamster with a zip would be a good description of the Leo jacket. It looks softer than FQHH though.

 

[Edward]

OK, Just found this for you.



So the back of the inception jacket is a half belt, with what looks like an action back. So its basically a teamster with a zipper instead of buttons or a long half belt with no breast or flap pockets and a front yoke instead.

Not sure if Aero would do that level of customising these days but AL do have their version called a long rider. Might be a good base to start with and I'm sure they would be happy to customise what you want.

I had my teamster made a bit longer to my specification so it is a bit longer than Leo's jacket, not sure what the standard length would be, I'm sure altering the length by 1-2 inches wouldn't be an issue at all.

Photo looks like a Halfbelt Deluxe less the patch pockets.

 

[Edward]

The Long Half-Belt is a mid-length zippered surcoat (I think that's what Dinerman describes it as) very similar to DeCaprio's. It comes with a bi-swing as standard. My Aero one is about slim fitting as I think you'd want for this style - AL make a similar one, though you'd probably want to wipe the cargo pockets and breast pocket off it though and add the yoke. That could look pretty nice.

Aha! Missed this before I spoke. Agreed!

 

[MuyJingo]

The Long Half-Belt is a mid-length zippered surcoat (I think that's what Dinerman describes it as) very similar to DeCaprio's. It comes with a bi-swing as standard. My Aero one is about slim fitting as I think you'd want for this style - AL make a similar one, though you'd probably want to wipe the cargo pockets and breast pocket off it though and add the yoke. That could look pretty nice.

Yup, that sounds like pretty much the kind of look I want it to have.

:eusa_clap

I'm getting excited as I get in the final stages...

I'm trying to picture how the vertical cording on the inception jacket would translate to a black jacket, but I'm thinking it would look quiet nice...

What would be the difference of lengthening a 30's halfbelt and customizing an existing long halfbelt? Are there other differences besides the length?

I think I'm going to ask for the halfbelt to be made similar to the jacket from filmjackets above.

No one has said anything negative about it, and I quite like the look of it...

Sounds like it's all coming together now...can't wait to order it.

 

[Sloan1874]

The LHB tends to come with a bi-swing as standard, but that's about it. I think you'd need to talk to AL about how slim you want to go. I can wear a thick-ish sweater under mine but that's about it. If you're looking for DiCaprio's jacket, you might want to look at a mid-weight goat, horse or capeskin, something that will give you a bit of drape straight out of the box - an A-2 or A-1 fabric would probably do you.