Help with choosing a leather jacket

[Fanch]

Personally, I'd look into button cuffs (like the Aero half belts) on the AL jacket rather than the standard storm cuffs it appears to come with...but thats just me.

I too prefer the button cuffs that are leather lined. Both my Teamster and Pioneer have leather lined cuffs, which is one of the factors that make them the two favorite jackets in my collection.

 

[MuyJingo]

By golly I think I've got it!

I think I've pretty much settled on the LHB from AL (depending on length) with the following changes:

• Remove the breast pocket
• Remove flap pockets...just have slash hand warmers
• Add yoke and cords ala inception jacket
• Have the back similar to the filmjackets jacket I posted earlier.
• Less bulky zipper pull, all silver hardware
• No storm cuffs, just leather lined cuffs
• Extra inside pocket on right side.
• Inside pockets zipper instead of stud

In black goatskin or jerky horse hide.

Thoughts?

 

[ProteinNerd]

Looks good but not sure about inside pocket zip instead of stud.

I've got a AL Jerky Horse which is nice but I've heard the goat is even better....

 

[MuyJingo]

Looks good but not sure about inside pocket zip instead of stud.

I've got a AL Jerky Horse which is nice but I've heard the goat is even better....

Why would a zip instead of a stud be an issue?

I just went with that since it's what I was used to....I left it unzipped all the time anyway.

 

[Sloan1874]

A stud will eventually shine through. FL-er Fanch had his inside pockets made without any closure. You could try a button and loop closure, that would do the job, and Schitzo had AL make one for him.

 

[scrawlysteve]

I think no closure may be best--or maybe a velcro thing might be safe. Weigh the options carefully and don't rush into anything.

 

[MuyJingo]

Would a zip show through as well?

These things are still new to me, as the zip didnt show through on my mall jacket after 8/9 years, even after it started being very very worn.

 

[BobJ]

No, a zip will not show through. I have a zip on my right inner chest pocket to keep valuables safe, and an open pocket with no type of closure on the left, for easy, quick access.

 

[MuyJingo]

Awesome, good to know. I might do the same actually...

I'm glad I finally decided on a design.

Now just to pick the hide, weight and length.

I'm looking forward to showing it to you guys when I finally get it.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Good. I don't think can handle any more questions. I have not the slightest concern if you build a jacket that violates a vintage look. I'd just like you to choose something and run with it. As I said earlier, it's extremely unlikely that your first jacket will be your last. Most of us here get 2 or 3 (in my case I had 17 jackets) before we get the one that satisfies. I'm not much into customizing jackets other than the size. Whether it's pure vintage or not doesn't matter all that much to me, I just trust the makers to develop a pattern that works, then all I need to do is get one that fits. Having said that if I were to get a long half-belt I too would get rid of the pocket flaps. I don't like the look of them at all.

 

[Grayland]

Well said, Seb.

 

[MuyJingo]

The only thing I'm looking at now is whether it makes sense to lengthen a 30's halfbelt or shorten the LHB. There is a video showing the LHB on the AL page, and it is longer than Leo's and longer than what I was after.

Is there any difference from shortening one vs lengthening the other? If they both have a similar fit, I guess it wouldn't make much of a difference with the other changes I'm making?

Good. I don't think can handle any more questions. I have not the slightest concern if you build a jacket that violates a vintage look. I'd just like you to choose something and run with it. As I said earlier, it's extremely unlikely that your first jacket will be your last. Most of us here get 2 or 3 (in my case I had 17 jackets) before we get the one that satisfies. I'm not much into customizing jackets other than the size. Whether it's pure vintage or not doesn't matter all that much to me, I just trust the makers to develop a pattern that works, then all I need to do is get one that fits. Having said that if I were to get a long half-belt I too would get rid of the pocket flaps. I don't like the look of them at all.

I know you winked....but I am sorry if I've been a nuisance or annoyed people on the forums.

I know it's a forum for a particular style of jacket and I have been asking a lot of questions looking for something contrary to that style.

Still, I feel that I have learned a lot, and I appreciate everyone's input.

 

[ProteinNerd]

My guess is that only AL will know whether to shorten the LHB or lengthen the reg half belt.

I'm sure they will be happy for you to send them a picture of the inception jacket and tell them thats the length you want. TBH I wouldn't be surprised if they have had that request before.

 

[Sloan1874]

Actually, the LHB is pretty much the same length as DiCaprio's jacket. I don't think you'd have to muck around with that.

 

[Edward]

Yup, that sounds like pretty much the kind of look I want it to have.

:eusa_clap

I'm getting excited as I get in the final stages...

I'm trying to picture how the vertical cording on the inception jacket would translate to a black jacket, but I'm thinking it would look quiet nice...

What would be the difference of lengthening a 30's halfbelt and customizing an existing long halfbelt? Are there other differences besides the length?

I think I'm going to ask for the halfbelt to be made similar to the jacket from filmjackets above.

No one has said anything negative about it, and I quite like the look of it...

Sounds like it's all coming together now...can't wait to order it.

The Thirties Halfbelt pattern was designed to be a short jacket. To lengthen it significantly would require quite a lot of tweaking... it's not as simple as just making the panels longer. Better to start with a longer jacket pattern.

 

[Fanch]

The Thirties Halfbelt pattern was designed to be a short jacket. To lengthen it significantly would require quite a lot of tweaking... it's not as simple as just making the panels longer. Better to start with a longer jacket pattern.

Edward, my impression of the 30's based HB pattens is that the backs are significantly shorter than the fronts, whereas the fronts and backs are more or less equal with 40's (Pioneer) and 50's (HB, DHB, LHB, etc.) jackets that provide much greater flexibility selection of body lengths than the 30's patterns. IMO the 30's jackets seem to be more flattering when worn with high waisted, high rise trousers that were worn by men in that era. Personally, I don't care for the look of a jacket that fits above the belt in the back. However, if a 30's fits below the belt in the back, the front of the jacket appears bunched up around the crotch. :eeek:

 

[handymike]

Fanch, you are so right. there is a tricky balance between back length and front length when there is a 2 1/2- 3" dip in front... I say go for the back length and adjust the front accordingly. I like the way a 24 1/2" back looks with a 2 1/4" dip----but I like a 25 1/2" back. So I would adjust the front dip to 1 1/2- 1 3/4".....
Even my surcoat has a 2" front dip on a 27" back.....

 

[Fanch]

I think most of us have a "sweet spot" for body length, and mine is a 26" to 26 1/2" back (I am 6'2"). Since I am high waisted (not wasted), I am able to pull off a 42" 30's HB with a 25 1/2" back, which falls at the bottom edge of my belt in the back and doesn't bunch up in front. However, someone with a long torso might have more of a problem wearing a 30's HB than I. In any case, my preference is a 40's (Pioneer) and 50's feel and look.

My impression is that if the front is shortened and the back lengthened on a 30's HB, then the final result might be more of a 50's slim fit jacket. I suspect that Ken is somewhat reluctant to do this on his 30's HB since perhaps his original pattern has been corrupted in his eyes. I repeat, that is just my impression, and I cannot speak for Ken since I have not actually heard it directly from him. Any comments?

 

[BobJ]

When I ordered my Arkansas from Alexander Leather, they told me the standard pattern included the angled dip to the front, making it a bit longer than the back, but said they could leave it off and have both the front and back the same length if I wanted. I chose the dip and am glad I did - there is something about actually wearing it that makes the front and back seem more even. Maybe it's my body, but when the front and back are the same length, the front LOOKS shorter when I'm wearing it. Must be the way it hangs on my shoulders.

Point is: AL will do it either way you want. I bet Aero would too.

Bob

 

[wdw]

I'm the same. I thought a lower front looked odd then I realized my straight-hemmed HWM was higher on the front when worn. Now I have a DB on order and reckon it'll look pretty even all round because if the lower front.