Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

Sounds like having a stand might be beneficial. I've only done the handful of builds, but the thing for me was realizing I needed more steam.

Yep, steam is like horsepower and money......could always use more. I use the water immersion method on stiffer western bodies and that works better on them. For standard dress weight I find my Jiffy works fine. I also use a hand steamer to keep it steamed or to give localized steam while I am blocking. Sometimes, even with dress weight, getting the last bit of felt over the shoulders of my no taper, square shouldered blocks requires that last extra application of steam

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I have purchased 2' x 2' plywood, cut out ovals to match 4 sizes of my blocks. ( I can use one size for two blocks sizes with no ill effect) I place the cutout plywood over the still blocked felt which is placed on another 2'x2' plywood and then clamp them together after giving the brim a thorough steaming and steam ironing (with wetted terry cloth cover). I let this sit for 48 hours or so and the brim comes out flat and true. I call these my "flat brim flanges" . I have them in various thickness of plywood and use the appropriate size (3/8", 1/2", & 5/8"depending on how much of the block height I have used. I thne trim the brim when completely dry.

Good idea, I like it and will have to borrow it. I use the pinning method when I need to stretch the felt to get more brim width out of it.

 

[Gobi]

What is your source of steam?

I suppose you are dry blocking the hat too. I have had success with wet blocking, you might give that a try. The idea is to soak the hat body in hot water for an hour or so and then block it. I wrap my block with plastic wrap first. Then once blocked, I let it dry for 2 weeks. It will likely introduce a bunch of waves into the brim, but this too can be handled. I have used a flat flange made from craft wood (Lowe's hardware) and then soaked the brim and steamed it then stretched the brim and pinned it to the wood, let dry another 2 weeks. Takes a lot of pins, about 1 every inch.

What are the dimensions your are going for? 6 inch crown adn what is the finished brim width you want?

I am using a big pot of boiling water, first spraying the crown with a spray bottle, then setting the hat crown down in the pot until steam is coming up through the felt, the crown was saturated when I put it on the block.
As far as dimensions, 6" crown and hopefully 4" brim but I'd be fine with 3 1/2".
I want to lessen the likelyhood of the body shrinking back down, I'm hypothesizing that a hat that is overly stretched will be more likely to un-stretch while a hat that wasn't, wont. If that makes sense.

 

[belfastboy]

Here are pics of my Everyman's Hat Shop.....1st is my Bolero block, 2nd is my #52, The blocking springs are a continuous loop, silicone. strong and slippery, they have a wire core that gives them substance. I need to buy clamps with a longer reach to get more bite closer to the brim on my flat brim flanges.

 

[Gobi]

Here are pics of my Everyman's Hat Shop.....1st is my Bolero block, 2nd is my #52, The blocking springs are a continuous loop, silicone. strong and slippery, they have a wire core that gives them substance. I need to buy clamps with a longer reach to get more bite closer to the brim on my flat brim flanges. View attachment 306560 View attachment 306561 View attachment 306562 View attachment 306563 View attachment 306564

I cant seem to find the blocking springs on the website. Do you have a link?

 

[jlee562]

I cant seem to find the blocking springs on the website. Do you have a link?

https://www.hatblocks.co.uk/product/bspr/

 

[belfastboy]

https://www.hatblocks.co.uk/product/bspr/

Thank you!

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

I am using a big pot of boiling water, first spraying the crown with a spray bottle, then setting the hat crown down in the pot until steam is coming up through the felt, the crown was saturated when I put it on the block.
As far as dimensions, 6" crown and hopefully 4" brim but I'd be fine with 3 1/2".
I want to lessen the likelyhood of the body shrinking back down, I'm hypothesizing that a hat that is overly stretched will be more likely to un-stretch while a hat that wasn't, wont. If that makes sense.

Are you returning to the big pot of boiling water to re-steam the hat body while it is on the block? It is near impossible to steam once and get it blocked in one go. You need to steam it multiple times as you are working it, if you're not then try that. If you are, then you need more steam. You could consider various handheld steamers, steam iron stations, jiffy steamer, etc.

I have yet to experience much shrinkage from steaming and stretching.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

https://www.hatblocks.co.uk/product/bspr/

Thank you!

The GMB website is very interesting when trying to navigate it to buy the blocking springs. Not user friendly. The link provided here takes you to a page that doesn't allow you to choose the size, instead it assumes you are also getting a block with it. If you are not you are supposed to go to the online store which doesn't take you to a different page but right back to the first one anyway. So how do you actually pick the size and buy one?

 

[jlee562]

The GMB website is very interesting when trying to navigate it to buy the blocking springs. Not user friendly. The link provided here takes you to a page that doesn't allow you to choose the size, instead it assumes you are also getting a block with it. If you are not you are supposed to go to the online store which doesn't take you to a different page but right back to the first one anyway. So how do you actually pick the size and buy one?

Hmm...well, they're also on Etsy!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/166538...97d32c8ef7180caf90e59e238d2b467e66a:166538211

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Hmm...well, they're also on Etsy!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/166538211/millinery-blocking-spring?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=blocking+spring&ref=sc_gallery-1-1&plkey=46de397d32c8ef7180caf90e59e238d2b467e66a:166538211

True, but the other thing with GMB is that if you buy from them on Etsy you will pay more for the item and shipping. I figured this out when I bought their curling shackle. You get the better deal by using their website and purchasing directly. The springs will cost you and extra $4 each if going through Etsy. Not too bad but if you are buying 7 of them then it adds up. I know it is only $28 extra, but hey I am cheap and try to get the most out of every dollar.

 

[belfastboy]

The GMB website is very interesting when trying to navigate it to buy the blocking springs. Not user friendly. The link provided here takes you to a page that doesn't allow you to choose the size, instead it assumes you are also getting a block with it. If you are not you are supposed to go to the online store which doesn't take you to a different page but right back to the first one anyway. So how do you actually pick the size and buy one?

Yes, I went through that exact experience. Emailing them cleared it up.

They are a husband and wife team and great to deal with. I request shipping by Post and they comply, much cheaper than courier. I like their felts as well....although the colour selection is not great. I like the Creek colour....a taupe like Granite colour. I would love to buy his blocks but he is pricey. He showed a huge table full of the latest block order from Optimo upwards of a hundred blocks.

 

[Gobi]

Are you returning to the big pot of boiling water to re-steam the hat body while it is on the block? It is near impossible to steam once and get it blocked in one go. You need to steam it multiple times as you are working it, if you're not then try that. If you are, then you need more steam. You could consider various handheld steamers, steam iron stations, jiffy steamer, etc.

I have yet to experience much shrinkage from steaming and stretching.

Yes, I returned to the pot, put lid on to help hold the hat from falling all the way into pot and to hold in the steam. I'm going to wait for the blocking spring and use that to take some of the brim into the crown. It doesn't need much. Probably only about the width of the spring.
I went ahead and ordered a spring and just sent them an email with the size so fingers crossed.

 

[belfastboy]

Yes, I returned to the pot, put lid on to help hold the hat from falling all the way into pot and to hold in the steam. I'm going to wait for the blocking spring and use that to take some of the brim into the crown. It doesn't need much. Probably only about the width of the spring.
I went ahead and ordered a spring and just sent them an email with the size so fingers crossed.

It took 2 weeks via mail, UK to west coast Canada. They ship orders next day latest.

 

[ChicagoWayVito]

Yes, I returned to the pot, put lid on to help hold the hat from falling all the way into pot and to hold in the steam. I'm going to wait for the blocking spring and use that to take some of the brim into the crown. It doesn't need much. Probably only about the width of the spring.
I went ahead and ordered a spring and just sent them an email with the size so fingers crossed.

Just want to make sure, were you using blocking cord? You should be able to take from the brim to add to the crown with cord as well.

 

[belfastboy]

Just want to make sure, were you using blocking cord? You should be able to take from the brim to add to the crown with cord as well.

I have a bitch of a time with thick/stiff western felts. Pushing past the brim break to get more crown takes so much force that my blocking cord releases some of the tension and won't hold. I have no problem with standard dress weights but those westerns are a bitch. That is where I find the blocking spring works so well. I just use the pusher downer with a bit of force and it slides into position and because it is easily done it is much easier getting the blocking even all the way around. I did the western weight in 10 minutes yesterday after giving up after an hour and ordering the right sized blocking spring.

 

[Gobi]

Just want to make sure, were you using blocking cord? You should be able to take from the brim to add to the crown with cord as well.

Yeah I was using the cord but the brim wasnt completely saturated like the crown was so that was probably a lot of the problem and as belfastboy mentioned, it's western weight so even if fully saturated, it would still be nearly impossible just using blocking cord. It seems to slip too easily. The blocking spring seems like a great idea. I'm looking forward to messing around with that.

 

[T Jones]

Yeah I was using the cord but the brim wasnt completely saturated like the crown was so that was probably a lot of the problem and as belfastboy mentioned, it's western weight so even if fully saturated, it would still be nearly impossible just using blocking cord. It seems to slip too easily. The blocking spring seems like a great idea. I'm looking forward to messing around with that.

I do tons of Western weight conversions. Tie your blocking cord with a tight square knot. A Hatters knot will definitely slip where the square knot won't.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I have a bitch of a time with thick/stiff western felts. Pushing past the brim break to get more crown takes so much force that my blocking cord releases some of the tension and won't hold. I have no problem with standard dress weights but those westerns are a bitch. That is where I find the blocking spring works so well. I just use the pusher downer with a bit of force and it slides into position and because it is easily done it is much easier getting the blocking even all the way around. I did the western weight in 10 minutes yesterday after giving up after an hour and ordering the right sized blocking spring.

Hey now, that black western is Clear Beaver...American Hat Co. 3X Clear Beaver, but it’s all the same right?

That felt should make a nice hat. I’m actually thinking of keeping it as my cowboy funeral hat. As odd as it sounds, I need a hat for this purpose. In my position I attend a few funerals a year for work and most of them are for longtime members of the ranching community. Black boots, dark wash jeans, white oxford shirt, and a cowboy cut navy blazer (for some reason hardly anyone wears any sort of necktie etc., and most just come in their shirtsleeves), and of course a black cowboy hat. I wear packer boots as true cowboy boots don’t agree with my feet. I’d love to take some photos and share them here, but it just doesn’t seem right. It’s also strange to see all the old cowboys who run thousands of head of cows and are worth sizable fortunes and they all wear cheap cowboy hats. They also drink cheap beer with Keystone being the most common. It’s always interesting to see how cheap...er...frugal most of these men are.

 

[belfastboy]

Hey now, that black western is Clear Beaver...American Hat Co. 3X Clear Beaver, but it’s all the same right?

That felt should make a nice hat. I’m actually thinking of keeping it as my cowboy funeral hat. As odd as it sounds, I need a hat for this purpose. In my position I attend a few funerals a year for work and most of them are for longtime members of the ranching community. Black boots, dark wash jeans, white oxford shirt, and a cowboy cut navy blazer (for some reason hardly anyone wears any sort of necktie etc., and most just come in their shirtsleeves), and of course a black cowboy hat. I wear packer boots as true cowboy boots don’t agree with my feet. I’d love to take some photos and share them here, but it just doesn’t seem right. It’s also strange to see all the old cowboys who run thousands of head of cows and are worth sizable fortunes and they all wear cheap cowboy hats. They also drink cheap beer with Keystone being the most common. It’s always interesting to see how cheap...er...frugal most of these men are.

The American hat blocked like a dream....it is a great felt and will be a great hat when finished. It is the Bottle Green felt that was horrible to work with.....cardboard stiff even after a lengthy soak in hot water and so thick it would not fit into my flat brim flange cut to 62.5 plus enough to accomodate the felt thickness....this is even thicker. I have to reblock it today as it shrunk up from the stretch and is no longer 6". It will make a nice hat.....eventually!