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Gobi

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
I worked the felt a little more today, I used one cord with a tight square knot and then worked it down, then put on another cord with a slip knot to help hold everything in place once I worked it to the full 6". Now the brim looks silly and short but I'm thinking it'll become more full once it's properly flanged and the actual brim break is established.
20210203_192315.jpg
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
Tennessee
It looks quite simple to me. I’m sure you can become a master in a couple hours. :)
If one can sew, it is pretty simple. Getting it to actually look like a hat is the hard part. :( I haven't given up, I just put them on the back burner for a bit. I'm itching to make some H&H hats (half and half, dualist type). In fact, I just made a side cutting tool to separate the felt body crown from the brim. It's untested and may or may not work.
IMG_1845.JPG
 

Cinzia

New in Town
Messages
2
Hi!!!

I hope someone can help me: I'm desperate ;)

I have a question about leather sweatband and sizing.
At first I must say I'm self-taught, I read tons of stuff online, a couple of books,nothing more.
I couldn't found some serious millinery course, especially about male millinery.
So forgive me if my question could be stupid.


...Ok, it's obvious that hat size changes (get smaller) after had sewed leather sweatband..
But I' don't know how to fix this problem.

Should I block one (or more than one) size bigger?
Or should I stretch felt hat before sewing sweatband? if yes, how much?

Sorry again, but I don't know where else to ask
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,097
Location
San Francisco, CA
Hi!!!

I hope someone can help me: I'm desperate ;)

I have a question about leather sweatband and sizing.
At first I must say I'm self-taught, I read tons of stuff online, a couple of books,nothing more.
I couldn't found some serious millinery course, especially about male millinery.
So forgive me if my question could be stupid.


...Ok, it's obvious that hat size changes (get smaller) after had sewed leather sweatband..
But I' don't know how to fix this problem.

Should I block one (or more than one) size bigger?
Or should I stretch felt hat before sewing sweatband? if yes, how much?

Sorry again, but I don't know where else to ask

The hat block needs to be about 1/4" more in circumference than whatever you need the finished hat size to be. When the sweatband is installed, it should be the correct size.
 

ChicagoWayVito

Practically Family
Messages
699
Hi!!!

I hope someone can help me: I'm desperate ;)

I have a question about leather sweatband and sizing.
At first I must say I'm self-taught, I read tons of stuff online, a couple of books,nothing more.
I couldn't found some serious millinery course, especially about male millinery.
So forgive me if my question could be stupid.


...Ok, it's obvious that hat size changes (get smaller) after had sewed leather sweatband..
But I' don't know how to fix this problem.

Should I block one (or more than one) size bigger?
Or should I stretch felt hat before sewing sweatband? if yes, how much?

Sorry again, but I don't know where else to ask

@jlee562 has given you the correct answser here!
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
If one can sew, it is pretty simple. Getting it to actually look like a hat is the hard part. :( I haven't given up, I just put them on the back burner for a bit. I'm itching to make some H&H hats (half and half, dualist type). In fact, I just made a side cutting tool to separate the felt body crown from the brim. It's untested and may or may not work.
View attachment 307470

Very cool! I’m sure there are several of us who would be interested in either a Milan or a half-and-half.
 
Messages
10,829
Location
vancouver, canada
I was wasting time this morning and had a look (again) at the Leondrexler.com site. Found an interesting photo essay he put together showing him making a hat. Not as good as a video but a fun watch. I found it interesting that there is a distinct absence of equipment in his atelier. Other than a sewing machine for the sweats it is all done by hand. Go to Leondrexler.com click on the "Portfolio" tab from the upper drop down menu. Click on the "Luxemburger" model and in the text there is a link to..."photo essay". I found it interesting.

Steven Temkin is noted for his attention to detail. The two hats I have from his hand sit at the top of my customs in terms of quality.
 

Gobi

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?
 
Messages
11,366
Location
Alabama
I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?

Wire connectors. The type that are crimped.
 
Messages
10,829
Location
vancouver, canada
I'm getting ready to sew in some sweatbands and I realized non of my sweatbands came with the reed ferrules. Any ideas where to get some? Is there something that will work that can be found at a hardware store?
In a pinch I don't use one. When you cut the leather move the plastic reed out of the way and leave it long. after you cut the leather to the correct length leave about 3/4" of the reed on each end and stuff them into the sweat. Then drop a couple of stitches in the sweat just under the reed. With that much overlap the plastic reed ain't going anywhere. If you still want one or two PM me your address and I will pop them in the mail. Will take about two weeks to get to you.
 

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