German & Austrian Hutmachers

[rlk]

Austrian Melone

Either Böhm or E.W. & Co. Prague

 

[mayserwegener]

Interesting! Is it wool?

 

[rlk]

Interesting! Is it wool?

Could be. Very nicely finished but has a wooly feel.

 

[Joshbru3]

1920 Peschel Velour

Well it took me awhile to restore this one because I was looking for NOS ribbon that was somewhat similar to the original. After looking for months, it couldn't be found. I had a 1920's Stetson laying around that was purchased for parts because the felt was just completely trashed. I took off the 1920's Stetson ribbon and transplanted it onto this hat which dates to around 1920-1921. I figured the ribbon is from the same basic time period.

Here's a couple BEFORE PICS

I did a lot of steaming and brushing on this one but really whats most interesting is the nap goes clockwise, NOT counterclockwise like every other of my hats.

Here's the end result......

 

[Chepstow]

Robert, great Melone. Looks very good. Found on German Ebay.?

Josh, very well job done. Looks like new. Fine exemplar. How about a noggin shot?

 

[Joshbru3]

Josh, very well job done. Looks like new. Fine exemplar. How about a noggin shot?

Thanks very much, Manfred! I will try to get a noggin shot later this evening.

 

[mayserwegener]

Josh, Looks fantastic and such unique color. It's great that you were able to use a ribbon/bow from a similar time period. Look forward to the noggin shot. Also please post some under side shots when you get a chance.

 

[alanfgag]

I wondered what had happened to that one... nice, but I'm going to keep an eye out for some vintage ribbon in that original color.

 

[Joshbru3]

Josh, Looks fantastic and such unique color. It's great that you were able to use a ribbon/bow from a similar time period. Look forward to the noggin shot. Also please post some under side shots when you get a chance.

Thanks so much Steve! The color is actually MUCH darker than the pictures showed. The flash really lightened up the color, but I will say that when bright light hits the felt, it does become much lighter.

Here's a picture that show the natural color a bit better:

As far as underside shots, I didn't take any after the refurb, but it hasn't changed since I received the hat. Here's a couple:

 

[Joshbru3]

I wondered what had happened to that one... nice, but I'm going to keep an eye out for some vintage ribbon in that original color.

Thanks, Alan. The difficult thing about finding the original style and type of ribbon is a couple factors. I noticed that the original ribbon wasn't actually peach colored, it was actually a light brown before it faded. Also the ribbon isn't regular grosgrain, its Picot with VERY small end knots. The other thing that made it difficult to find is that it wasn't actually grosgrain at all, its was a VERY lightweight silk and that's why it tore and deteriorated over the years. Those couple factors made it impossible to find.

 

[mayserwegener]

Josh, Thanks! The color is much better without the flash. It is hard to photo the slick look and get the color correct. Notice how the sweat ribbon matches the felt. I can only imagine how nice the liner was (I assume it had one). It's fantastic that the original block and flange are in place. This is such a rare find!

 

[Joshbru3]

Josh, Thanks! Yes the color is much better without the flash. It is hard to photo the slick look and get the color correct. It's fantastic that the original block and flange are in place. This is such a rare find!

I seriously found this hat to be impossible to photograph. Every time I tried without the flash, it appeared dark and dull. When I used the flash, it looked very slick and shinny but also appeared neon green.

The original block is really wonderful. It has the same block profile as my Stetson Pacemaker. The look is very straight, but the sides do have quite a bit of taper. I realized why they did this though....when a center dent is used to bring the crown height down, the crown literally squares up perfectly when it hits a certain height. The open crown height is 5 3/4 and when brought down to about 5 inches or so, its squares up.

The flange was interesting. When I got the hat it was VERY floppy and the brim didn't really look good snapped. I realized that the hat was meant to be worn as an upbrim, but something was missing. I steamed it, and the felt stiffened right up, but is still soft, pliable, and thin. I then pulled the front and back down a bit, which in turn pushed the sides up and in. This gave it that wonderful late teens/early 20's look. It seemed like the brim wanted to go in that direction.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes, fairly straight from the side view with a good amount of taper from the front view. Definitely worn brim up, center crease with mid side dents. Fantastic!

 

[rlk]

The Peschel really turned out well!
I should do something with its chocolate brother(same size likely)

 

[Chepstow]

Yes, fairly straight from the side view with a good amount of taper from the front view. Definitely worn brim up, center crease with mid side dents. Fantastic!

+1

indeed!!

 

[mayserwegener]

Robert, That one is amazing too! What a color! Is this the one that has the AP paper tag but no other identifier?

 

[rlk]

Robert, That one is amazing too! Is this the one that has the AP paper tag but no other identifier?

Had the identical sweatband to Josh's and same appearance but no ribbon or tags. Clockwise swirl too.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thank you for the clarification!

 

[Joshbru3]

The Peschel really turned out well!
I should do something with its chocolate brother(same size likely)

Thanks so much, Robert!!

That color is phenomenal! I can just imagine that hat brushed and steamed.....it would look amazing!

I know that my Peschel was the first clockwise nap hat that I have owned, do you have others in your collection that have a clockwise nap?

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne Plume Melone, size 6 Point, plus hat case. Feather light, flexible and fits perfect (wears like a soft felt).