Formal Wear Primer

[Marc Chevalier]

.
Thanks to the lovely Lounger Idledame, here is a sharper image of last Sunday night's outfit:

 

[Guttersnipe]

Wow, the details really pop in the edited one, I hadn't noticed the waistcoat's lapels before. Black is such a tricky color to photograph. Two questions: are those buttons or studs on the waistcoat, and who made the shirt?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Wow, the details really pop in the edited one, I hadn't noticed the waistcoat's lapels before. Black is such a tricky color to photograph. Two questions: are those buttons or studs on the waistcoat, and who made the shirt?

The waistcoat's detachable buttons, the shirt's studs, and the shirt's cufflinks are all from the same 1920s onyx & white gold matching stud set, made by Krementz for a long-gone store called "Eacret". The set includes two shirt studs, a pair of cufflinks, and six(!) waistcoat button studs.


The shirt is a 1930s German brand labeled "For-Ever". (Yes, it has an English name.) Its front and cuffs are of white cotton pique; the rest of it is plain cotton. It takes two shirt studs. I found it at a used clothing store in Chile.

 

[Chasseur]

Marc,

That is a great black tie set! Top class:eusa_clap

 

[Bugsy]

.
Thanks to the lovely Lounger Idledame, here is a sharper image of last Sunday night's outfit:

So incredible.!!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

.
Finally ... an acceptably clear photo of my tuxedo getup! (I promise it'll be the last one.)

 

[Feraud]

Very nice outfit. Are you left handed?
Just wonderin'..

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Very nice outfit. Are you left handed?
Just wonderin'..

Right-handed, and I've never played a stringed instrument in my life. It's the photographer's prop.

 

[Brunathacliath]

Hi everyone, i just joined the site and with the number of posts above I am not sure whether my question has been covered or not.

I just bought a new dinner suit. The trousers feature a single button sticking out, outside of the concealed button fly (I tried to upload a photo but I get a message saying i don't have enough rights to do so).

I thought it was there to attach a cummerbund but Peter of the black tie guide (who advised me to ask you guys) says that these buttons are usually much smaller and inside of the trousers. I found a post above (i think page 128) that says the latter button has two functions: shirt tab and cummerbund. In my case no button inside but one outside.

Have you seen such a button before?

Thanks in advance

P.S: I will read much more of this thread soon as it is amazing to see so much specialised knowledge on this topic.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

... the latter button has two functions: shirt tab and cummerbund.

It has a third function as well: to hold the tab attached to inside center of a single-breasted evening waistcoat. Hence, the button ends up holding two things at the same time: the shirt tab and the waistcoat (or cummerbund) tab. The waistcoat tab gets buttoned on first, and the shirt tab follows. It takes practice.

(Double-breasted evening waistcoats have two tabs, left and right of center, which are meant to be attached to the two brace buttons on either side of the trouser's fly. Those overworked buttons do double duty: they hold the brace tabs and the waistcoat tabs at the same time.) The waistcoat tabs go on first, and then the brace tabs get buttoned on. And yes, it's tricky and cumbersome to do.


Why all these tabs? To keep the shirt's bosom from riding up and bowing outward; to keep the waistcoat from riding up above the trouser's waistband; and to keep the cummerbund from doing the same.

 

[Brunathacliath]

Thanks Marc for all the info.

Do you reckon my weird button on the outside of the fly is designed to hold all these items? Shouldn't the button normally be indside the trousers?

 

[Two Types]

As someone who favours wider trousers (and has not worn flat front trousers for daywear for over 20 years) I always feel uncomfortable in a dinner suit because the trousers seem so narrow. So imagine my joy at finding a wider legged pair of vintage dinner trousers with double pleats -and button fly - for just £10. And in my size! It was an absolute miracle.

Here is a front view showing the pleats and the rear strap for braces:

Here is the side detail:

Here is a view of the inner front waistband. It has an odd cotton strip that buttons across to an interior button at the top of the fly. You can also just see a strap which has a press stud fastening. I am guessing this is for fixing trousers to the waistcoat. Any ideas on these details?:

 

[Brunathacliath]

How can you guys post pictures on this forum? I keep on getting a message that I don't have sufficient privileges. I wish I could post a picture of my "weird button" which is definitely not the same as yours "two types". Your stud on a strap is even more bizzarre i must say!

 

[Two Types]

How can you guys post pictures on this forum? I keep on getting a message that I don't have sufficient privileges. I wish I could post a picture of my "weird button" which is definitely not the same as yours "two types". Your stud on a strap is even more bizzarre i must say!

Have you checked the FAQ? I did have a problem when I first tried but that was solved by un-checking the box under the URL. Apart from that, I don't know.

 

[Midnight Blue]

Have you checked the FAQ? I did have a problem when I first tried but that was solved by un-checking the box under the URL. Apart from that, I don't know.

Bruno, for some reason I can't post attachments either but I have uploaded the photo you sent me via The Black Tie Guide.

Loungers, any idea what this odd exterior button is for?

 

[Qirrel]

Bruno, for some reason I can't post attachments either but I have uploaded the photo you sent me via The Black Tie Guide.






Loungers, any idea what this odd exterior button is for?

Doesn't it go through the buttonhole on its immediate left?

 

[Brunathacliath]

Aw thanks P. for uploading it!

Of course it is not part of the fly. Actually the buttons on the fly are on the right, this one on the left, on its own. There is no buttonhole in front of it.

Anyways sorry to have bothered everyone with that, it's only a little button afterall!

OK if you don't mind guys another question then: the composition is a blend of cotton and silk. Sold as a two piece dinner suit, satin silk peak lapels. The latter characteristic makes me want to opt for waistcoat rather than cummerbund. I will probably never find a cotton and silk vest. In your opinion would it be acceptable to wear let's say a wool waistcoat with such a suit?

 

[avedwards]

In your opinion would it be acceptable to wear let's say a wool waistcoat with such a suit?

If the colour and texture were a close enough match, then yes. However, if the suit is a cotton and silk blend it's most likely a summer suit in which case a cummerbund would be more appropriate.

 

[Qirrel]

Aw thanks P. for uploading it!

Of course it is not part of the fly. Actually the buttons on the fly are on the right, this one on the left, on its own. There is no buttonhole in front of it.

I'd say there is. What about that conspicuous (unused?) buttonhole, as marked in red? Of course it could be that it is the button to attach the vest to, but I am thinking it is not, as I have seen this very configuration on a pair of trousers before.

 

[Nick D]

Given the length of the thread shank, could it be buttoned to a tab on the waistcoat and then buttoned into the waistband?