Five Star Leather Jackets

[MrProper]

Thanks, looks like really spectacular.

I’m eager to see your next project based on that new shearling.

I still need to clarify what Shawn can do.
I would prefer a Cafe Racer, possibly as a Crosszip.
I don't want any reinforcements on the seams then though, because I can't imagine Shawn having a leather that comes close to the shearling in color and style. French seams would be cool.
Or something like the Schott 683, but with a fur collar.

 

[Berto]

I still need to clarify what Shawn can do.
I would prefer a Cafe Racer, possibly as a Crosszip.
I don't want any reinforcements on the seams then though, because I can't imagine Shawn having a leather that comes close to the shearling in color and style. French seams would be cool.
Or something like the Schott 683, but with a fur collar.
View attachment 355842

Similar to that with mouton collar is my next project with Greg.

 

[Hobbes1]

I still need to clarify what Shawn can do.
I would prefer a Cafe Racer, possibly as a Crosszip.
I don't want any reinforcements on the seams then though, because I can't imagine Shawn having a leather that comes close to the shearling in color and style. French seams would be cool.
Or something like the Schott 683, but with a fur collar.
View attachment 355842

that is a cool idea. I’ll be watching with interest!

 

[Zoo]

20 mm. That’s the shearling for the new Irvin Jackets.

Irvin's? Where is there information on these, please?

 

[MrProper]

Irvin's? Where is there information on these, please?

You can find a few hints in Shawn's Facebook group.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/522007678698277/posts/592428634989514/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/522007678698277/posts/626680918230952/

 

[PilotJens]

Is the brown shearling/ nappalan surface supposed to be multi toned? Like a aged look ?
I dig the dark brown with the "caramel dirt" fur

 

[Webafile]

My patterns came in today and I'm excited. Will post fitment jacket once that gets here

 

[TheDonEffect]

So... This is happening. As per usual 5* lighting not the best but it's the skived CXL brown leather.

Anxious to see how this turns out, nervous about the measurements I sent and if it will even come to fruition, and then there's the concern about how stiff this will be.

Nonetheless, this will likely be my last chromexel jacket.

 

[Webafile]

So... This is happening. As per usual 5* lighting not the best but it's the skived CXL brown leather.

Anxious to see how this turns out, nervous about the measurements I sent and if it will even come to fruition, and then there's the concern about how stiff this will be.

Nonetheless, this will likely be my last chromexel jacket.

Hopefully it will be glorious. Looking forward to your photos

 

[MrProper]

So... This is happening. As per usual 5* lighting not the best but it's the skived CXL brown leather.

Anxious to see how this turns out, nervous about the measurements I sent and if it will even come to fruition, and then there's the concern about how stiff this will be.

Nonetheless, this will likely be my last chromexel jacket.

Judging by the photo, the leather seems way too stiff even in the new version. Or is it still the old CXL?

 

[PilotJens]

Exactly it looks like a plank sitting there.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I was told it's the same that was used for Tony and others jacket. We shall see...

 

[TheDonEffect]

Well to be fair, even Horween cxl can be stiff like that, I remember handing a large hide and it was like thick paper bordering on cardboard.

 

[handymike]

I appreciate Shawn’s willingness to try new hides, but for me that black goat is still the winner.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I appreciate Shawn’s willingness to try new hides, but for me that black goat is still the winner.

Agreed, but the value for his CXL is just too damn compelling, and I think 5* leveraging their in house tannery will give them the most opportunity to grow. Not saying they need to make CXL jackets, because this will probably be my last, CXL just is not comfortable. It's like hot sauce, some people want ghost peppers on everything and love enduring the punishment, me I enjoy spicy food and I can take it, but... why? CXL is sorta the same for me, yeah I can endure it, but... why?

Point is, I hope Shawn keeps learning what people are after, it would not surprise me that in a few years they start offering some great leather options, look at how far they've come already. Their goat is highly regarded, their new Buffalo is looking sharp (and appears to be teacore too), I think the misstep with the CXL was that they referenced that crazy 5oz hide and thought that's what people normally want. I think if your standard FQHH 3oz Horween CXL was sent, their products would have been different. It's why I went with the skived version. So I hope one of you will send them some Shinki, lol.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Agreed, but the value for his CXL is just too damn compelling, and I think 5* leveraging their in house tannery will give them the most opportunity to grow. Not saying they need to make CXL jackets, because this will probably be my last, CXL just is not comfortable. It's like hot sauce, some people want ghost peppers on everything and love enduring the punishment, me I enjoy spicy food and I can take it, but... why? CXL is sorta the same for me, yeah I can endure it, but... why?

Point is, I hope Shawn keeps learning what people are after, it would not surprise me that in a few years they start offering some great leather options, look at how far they've come already. Their goat is highly regarded, their new Buffalo is looking sharp (and appears to be teacore too), I think the misstep with the CXL was that they referenced that crazy 5oz hide and thought that's what people normally want. I think if your standard FQHH 3oz Horween CXL was sent, their products would have been different. It's why I went with the skived version. So I hope one of you will send them some Shinki, lol.

How thin did you ask Shawn to skive the brown CHL down to? 4oz? or thinner like 2.5? The leather crust is good stuff. Cow front shoulders. So there is a lot of good grains. It's just the stiff temper. I think a much thinner version would help speed up the softening process.
But 5* CHL is not same type of leather as Horween CXL though. It's more buffered finish on top vs soaking the whole leather in oil and waxes. This explains why CXL soften when warm but CHL is still stiff and needs true break in to soften.
I actually think Shawn was lead down the wrong road on the CHL. Now experienced two of his CHL leather I would say he has a better opportunity of copying Badalassi Vachetta. It's based on the same type of leather crust as the CHL, but no wax buffering. Just good old dye through and let the grains do the work. If anything I will send him some Badalassi cowhide to copy. Still waiting to see the newest black version first though.
Also I haven't gave up on the stiff brown CHL. Still trying to find the best way to break down those fiber tissues without harming the grain. A good hammering with the tenderizer mallet is in order, from the lining side. That would be a project for another weekend.
Your jacket has been cut so you should get in a week. Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

[Webafile]

This is making me wonder if I should change from the black heavy hide to the premium goat. Damn hard to pick

 

[Canuck Panda]

This is making me wonder if I should change from the black heavy hide to the premium goat. Damn hard to pick

Which jacket design?

 

[Webafile]

Which jacket design?

It's my own design based on 3 different parts from 3 different jackets. It's car coat that I customized to be a bit more form fitting and more simple clean looking hopefully.

 

[Canuck Panda]

It's my own design based on 3 different parts from 3 different jackets. It's car coat that I customized to be a bit more form fitting and more simple clean looking hopefully.

TBH, I don't think the CHL can achieve the drape you need for this coat. It does look a lot softer in Shawn's newest photos. But I can only base my guesses on what I have now. The 1.7mm tan version CHL can get you almost there. The 2.2mm brown CHL definitely NO. The 2.0mm black CHL needs to be as soft or softer than 1.7mm CHL to work for your coat.

Does anyone has an actual sample of the new black CHL? like a small cut piece? Please share!