Five Star Leather Jackets

[KBlake]

This one weighs 5 lbs.

 

[MrProper]

the labor cost/ fee I paid on my jacket in Indonesia is about $100 - $150 between 2014-2021 this workshop has an owner so the fee is cut between the owner and the rest of the workshop crew who worked on my jacket in different proportions I think, the rest is the cost of material which is around $100 ($80 for the hide, and $15 for the lining, and $5 for the YKK hardware), I asked post office about how much to send let say 5kilos package declared as leather jacket and they calculated and gave me a quotation around $100 .

I can buy a custom made leather (sheep) jacket including the material for $100 online here , and I paid $20 for a custom made vest including the material 2 sides with 2 pockets inside full duck canvas, $70 for custom made denim jacket 16oz selvedge (that slant pocket type2 with cinch back) and the same price on double knee jeans in 19oz selvedge with cinch back by local tailor specialized in denim/ workwear, however some jeans brand in my country would also sell their jeans for $150 and upward for their heavyweight variants which is I think 2x the cost if they subcontract it to a workshop or more is they make it in house or order in bulk.
I don't have insider info, just comparing prices based on my own purchases some with rtw local brands and some with local mto workshops both with union special chain stitch, raised belt loop, hidden rivets, peekaboo selvedge thing sticking out a little on the coin pocket all the candies.

I also have longsleeve tshirt with turtleneck made to my drawing and I bring in the fabrics and the street tailor charged me $3 and a half for 2 identical pieces. he own his little stall/ booth on the parking lot of a convenient store.

I think Indonesia (java island) and Pakistan probably within the same economic level perhaps

I read that in 2022, the average salary of a seamstress in Pakistan was between 15,000 rupees and 40,000 rupees per month.
This varies depending on experience and employer.
If you translate that into hours worked, it doesn't add up to much. Top pay for 160 hours is around $3, often certainly less.
This means that the labour cost of a jacket is probably around $30.

 

[navetsea]

Then it is much lower there assuming only 1 person working on that jacket when 1 jacket involving 3 people then it is about the same here

 

[PilotJens]

Interesting to see how this thread progressed lately.
Five star is definitely not the average Pakistani leather jacket company in my opinion having dealt with two factorys in their area .

I can post pictures of the Irvin jacket that I got made for 300$ .
cowhide strips . Sheep leather and faux fur to make a "everyday" easy to wear Irvin.


I have worn my "himmel" inspired cossack quiete a lot and I still think it is one of the coolest jackets I own .I even angered Dave himmel with it to the point that he gets angry on YouTube since I send him a picture on Instagram lol.


I asked Shawn to give the person stitching it a 10$ tip because I am OCD about stitching and they delivered absolute PERFECTION.

Now I do admit that their sleeve pattern isn't really good.It is mostly cost optimized by making the seams as straight as possible.

However the mobility improves with wear and deliberate stretching of the arms to create the lacking shape .


Goatskin stretches way more and is more comfortable because of it .


Still I cannot find anything comparable to Five star as of now that offers you free customization and alterations.

 

[58panheadfan]

Interesting to see how this thread progressed lately.
Five star is definitely not the average Pakistani leather jacket company in my opinion having dealt with two factorys in their area .

I can post pictures of the Irvin jacket that I got made for 300$ .
cowhide strips . Sheep leather and faux fur to make a "everyday" easy to wear Irvin.


I have worn my "himmel" inspired cossack quiete a lot and I still think it is one of the coolest jackets I own .I even angered Dave himmel with it to the point that he gets angry on YouTube since I send him a picture on Instagram lol.


I asked Shawn to give the person stitching it a 10$ tip because I am OCD about stitching and they delivered absolute PERFECTION.

Now I do admit that their sleeve pattern isn't really good.It is mostly cost optimized by making the seams as straight as possible.

However the mobility improves with wear and deliberate stretching of the arms to create the lacking shape .


Goatskin stretches way more and is more comfortable because of it .


Still I cannot find anything comparable to Five star as of now that offers you free customization and alterations.

I did it the same way, adding a tip for the crew and also mentioned to do my jackets with the "best" sewer and 5* delivered! Perfect sewn on both of my jacket, absolutely flawless!

 

[Eddiesuave]

5Star B-7 in its natural habitat ...

I'm 1.90 mtr - 100 kg - size is 46

How is that hide aging? I am curious to see how water, interacts with it. Any staining, top coat coming off? Is it good leather? Please elaborate, I am very interested.

 

[GraceNote13]

Has anyone used their current batch of CHL 2.2mm leather? I'm ordering a double rider in black/brown CHL, but I'm not sure if I want to go with the CHL or Seal HH. I have a 5* premium goat jacket and the heavily pebbled finish turned me off to their goat hides.

 

[MrProper]

Has anyone used their current batch of CHL 2.2mm leather? I'm ordering a double rider in black/brown CHL, but I'm not sure if I want to go with the CHL or Seal HH. I have a 5* premium goat jacket and the heavily pebbled finish turned me off to their goat hides.

I wouldn't use that. 2.2 mm is too much. I had 2mm HH which was wearable but actually too thick. This is more for a Roman breastplate.

 

[Peacoat]

I wouldn't use that. 2.2 mm is too much. I had 2mm HH which was wearable but actually too thick. This is more for a Roman breastplate.

Agreed. 2.2 mm is 5.5 oz. by weight. That would be one thick and heavy jacket.

 

[Eddiesuave]

Has anyone used their current batch of CHL 2.2mm leather? I'm ordering a double rider in black/brown CHL, but I'm not sure if I want to go with the CHL or Seal HH. I have a 5* premium goat jacket and the heavily pebbled finish turned me off to their goat hides.

Their CHL is really bad, avoid it.

 

[JDarwin52]

Just got initial pics of my ‘30s half-belt in Brown “pull up” HH. 1.4mm with a few mild sizing tweaks... I’m allowing myself a degree of giddiness to get it in my hands!

The old man in me (who has read this entire thread) shakes his cane and urges caution. Meanwhile the 19 year old who bought a mall A2 with his last $150 (and wore it religiously for over a decade) assures me “It’s gonna be RAD!”

These 2 sides -constantly arguing in my 53 year old mind- find absolute consensus on my new 5* B6. Two enthusiastic thumbs up. Here’s hoping I can get lucky again venturing into the civilian catalog.

 

[konadog]

The most important photos are the fit photos. Looking forward to those.

 

[PilotJens]

I mean oil pull up leather should be able to stretch quite well in comparison to the steerhide so you should be fine.

Has anyone experience with that hide ?
I want to try the dark brown goat or the pull up horse hide .

Does the horsehide darken when wet ?

 

[konadog]

I have the whisky horsehide. When I applied Pecards antique conditioner, it darkened considerably. I will post comparison photos soon.

 

[JDarwin52]

That looks really good. Can u post a fit pick. I need a B6 like a hole in the head, but would like one at a good price.

Here ya go sir, good luck if you decide to purchase! This ran $610 I believe plus shipping.

 

[Eddiesuave]

Hello All,
I’m ordering a B-3, I was wondering if anybody had some tips on sizing. How much should from a Cotton lined jacket for 20-22mm Shearling? How much should I expect it to flatten? Anything would be extremely helpful. Thank you.

 

[konadog]

Here's the comparison of before (left) and after Pecards Antique dressing:

And here's a close-up of the whisky horsehide grain:

 

[barnabus]

Here's the comparison of before (left) and after Pecards Antique dressing:

View attachment 575740

And here's a close-up of the whisky horsehide grain:

View attachment 575742

@konadog you always look like you're enjoying your jackets so very much in your photos. It's infectiously joyous.

 

[PilotJens]

Looks good so it will patina overtime with oil and UV exposure. I think I try the oil pull up leather and see if it darkens

 

[JDarwin52]

Hello All,
I’m ordering a B-3, I was wondering if anybody had some tips on sizing. How much should from a Cotton lined jacket for 20-22mm Shearling? How much should I expect it to flatten? Anything would be extremely helpful. Thank you.

Back around page 225 a member noted the 22mm had a tendency to flatten. Still warm but comparable to warmth of 10mm thickness.
When ordering my 10mm B6 I used the sizing chart, but wanted to customize pit-to-to-pit, waist, back length and sleeve length. Measured my favorite-fitting standard leather. 10mm =approx. 3/8”. So I added that measurement twice (3/4”) for P2P/waist and once (3/8”) for sleeve and body. Plus added a smidge to length (wanting a longer fit).
Sounds a bit persnickety, but I got a good result.