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Five Star Leather Jackets

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
With all that said I always wear my jacket open even in winter it barely gets cold in Florida and my weight fluctuates too much to worry about a tight fit. So now I will worry about getting the sleeves and body length right and make sure I’m not swimming in the waistline
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,676
@Damon141

I think most of our first horsehide jacket was a cafe racer. In my case, it also didn't work out. I paid £710 for a custom Aero, sent it back as soon as I open the box. Return shipping was $100. Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
Aero Cafe Racer Mk2 Sold.jpg

I learned my lesson.

My second jacket was a stock Aero Daytona with riding sleeve length (+1"), which is the only Greg Field jacket I still have today, in Aero pattern.
Aero Daytona 40.jpg


It wasn't until a year or more later, I came across a Good Wear HB in the Classifieds, it is now part of my standard for pattern sizing.
GW Standard Chest Angle.jpg

It was also around this time I started taking fit photos at stomach level instead of chest level, for my own database:
GW Standard Stomach Angle.jpg

And as luck have it, I've found another standard for pattern sizing, stock Johnson M500.
JL Standard Stomach Angle.jpg

I stopped taking chest angle photos one jacket after this jacket.
JL Standard Chest Angle.jpg

A few things I am trying to say, is that, I've been there.
I've also misunderstood many info and photos.
But there are very good stock patterns out there. You will find one that's right for you, and everything will be clear then.

Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.

5Star is really a place to come to after too many expensive jackets.

Cafe Racers / J100 Racing Shirts are hard to get the fit you want if you have taper more than 5" drop chest to waist. This is where alteration comes in. Motorcycle jackets are by design to have longer and not slim sleeves, especially at bending points. (The good ones) do tighten in all the right spots to stop back flow.

A good read here is Carlos Database

And pointy shoulders won't round. It's the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice. Athletic guys benefits from rounded shoulder slope (not flat), but not necessary rounded sleeve attachment. Rounded shoulder slope works best with slight angled sleeve attachment. One day you'll find a jacket that will show you this way, or just go through Carlos posts.
round vs point.jpg

Check out Carlo's database. It's a shame the guy doesn't update it with his current jacket anymore. The best source of solid intel on jackets.

Godspeed.
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
Good info. I think my best fit on a J 100 style jacket is going to be Field‘s leather which I’m on the waiting list for, I’m also in the works for a sooner jacket with Lewis Leather, No. 68 super sportsman which I think will have a little bit more give with the waist tensioner’s and drape better than a typical Mandarin style collar jacket, I’d also be open to buying vintage jacket if it was close to my size and possibly have the sleeves altered which is a must with my height and weight
 
Messages
11,148
Location
SoCal
@Damon141

I think most of our first horsehide jacket was a cafe racer. In my case, it also didn't work out. I paid £710 for a custom Aero, sent it back as soon as I open the box. Return shipping was $100. Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
View attachment 417244
I learned my lesson.

My second jacket was a stock Aero Daytona with riding sleeve length (+1"), which is the only Greg Field jacket I still have today, in Aero pattern.
View attachment 417245

It wasn't until a year or more later, I came across a Good Wear HB in the Classifieds, it is now part of my standard for pattern sizing.
View attachment 417246
It was also around this time I started taking fit photos at stomach level instead of chest level, for my own database:
View attachment 417247
And as luck have it, I've found another standard for pattern sizing, stock Johnson M500.
View attachment 417249
I stopped taking chest angle photos one jacket after this jacket.
View attachment 417250
A few things I am trying to say, is that, I've been there.
I've also misunderstood many info and photos.
But there are very good stock patterns out there. You will find one that's right for you, and everything will be clear then.

Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.

5Star is really a place to come to after too many expensive jackets.

Cafe Racers / J100 Racing Shirts are hard to get the fit you want if you have taper more than 5" drop chest to waist. This is where alteration comes in. Motorcycle jackets are by design to have longer and not slim sleeves, especially at bending points. (The good ones) do tighten in all the right spots to stop back flow.

A good read here is Carlos Database
[/URL]

And pointy shoulders won't round. It's the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice. Athletic guys benefits from rounded shoulder slope (not flat), but not necessary rounded sleeve attachment. Rounded shoulder slope works best with slight angled sleeve attachment. One day you'll find a jacket that will show you this way, or just go through Carlos posts.
View attachment 417251
Check out Carlo's database. It's a shame the guy doesn't update it with his current jacket anymore. The best source of solid intel on jackets.

Godspeed.
I hope you kept that GW!
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,316
Location
Europe
Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
Aero Cafe Racer Mk2 Sold.jpg
I guess it was too tight for your taste? For the first try I find it top. I would like them like this. On the other hand... if you can't move around in it…

Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.
5* is a producer, not a designer.
Give them exact instructions and they will build you 5000 exact copies. Only on the basis of body measurements create a pattern, is a less good idea. I can't speak from my own experience, but can only judge from pictures of others.
But still, they seem to know their business, that they can build well-fitting and comfortable jackets based only on my specifications.
And pointy shoulders won't round.
Exactly. I think the advantage of round shoulders is that the shoulder width can vary more.
If the shoulder width is a little wider, it is less visually noticeable than with pointed shoulders.
If pointed shoulders are too wide, I like it less.
In the meantime I know how to instruct 5* to get round shoulders in a new pattern. lol
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
I emailed Shawn this am. Would like this jacket made in his seal brown cow if he can.
I’ll be curious to see what he says.
View attachment 263933 View attachment 263934
I love that coloring. Is it one if your vintage jackets?

It looks like one of those hand dyed leather products made to look like patina.

I wish I could try to dye my Cognac goat.

I don’t know whether I want to start with just a Saphir cream or a paint on dye like Fiebings.

I actually bought and returned a Coach Leather Jacket because of a video on YouTube showing a patina color. Actual jacket that arrived looked nothing like it so back it went and bought a Schott.
 

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MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,316
Location
Europe
I wish I could try to dye my Cognac goat.

I don’t know whether I want to start with just a Saphir cream or a paint on dye like Fiebings.
Somewhere here in the thread Tony described how he first gave a 5* jacket an acetone cure and then re-dyed it.
I might want to try that with my michachocolate colored trucker.
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
@Damon141

I think most of our first horsehide jacket was a cafe racer. In my case, it also didn't work out. I paid £710 for a custom Aero, sent it back as soon as I open the box. Return shipping was $100. Got a remake, suffered with it for a year, then let it sat in the closet for another year, then sold it for $350.
View attachment 417244
I learned my lesson.

My second jacket was a stock Aero Daytona with riding sleeve length (+1"), which is the only Greg Field jacket I still have today, in Aero pattern.
View attachment 417245

It wasn't until a year or more later, I came across a Good Wear HB in the Classifieds, it is now part of my standard for pattern sizing.
View attachment 417246
It was also around this time I started taking fit photos at stomach level instead of chest level, for my own database:
View attachment 417247
And as luck have it, I've found another standard for pattern sizing, stock Johnson M500.
View attachment 417249
I stopped taking chest angle photos one jacket after this jacket.
View attachment 417250
A few things I am trying to say, is that, I've been there.
I've also misunderstood many info and photos.
But there are very good stock patterns out there. You will find one that's right for you, and everything will be clear then.

Unfortunately I really don't think 5Star is a good place for pattern learning, that's why I asked about your Himel.

5Star is really a place to come to after too many expensive jackets.

Cafe Racers / J100 Racing Shirts are hard to get the fit you want if you have taper more than 5" drop chest to waist. This is where alteration comes in. Motorcycle jackets are by design to have longer and not slim sleeves, especially at bending points. (The good ones) do tighten in all the right spots to stop back flow.

A good read here is Carlos Database

And pointy shoulders won't round. It's the way the sleeves are attached to the bodice. Athletic guys benefits from rounded shoulder slope (not flat), but not necessary rounded sleeve attachment. Rounded shoulder slope works best with slight angled sleeve attachment. One day you'll find a jacket that will show you this way, or just go through Carlos posts.
View attachment 417251
Check out Carlo's database. It's a shame the guy doesn't update it with his current jacket anymore. The best source of solid intel on jackets.

Godspeed.

The guy is still working on it....
Expect an updated version this summer!

(I am actually going to paint a wall grey so that i have a good backdrop for the next batch of pics!)
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,493
Location
Chicago
I love that coloring. Is it one if your vintage jackets?

It looks like one of those hand dyed leather products made to look like patina.

I wish I could try to dye my Cognac goat.

I don’t know whether I want to start with just a Saphir cream or a paint on dye like Fiebings.

I actually bought and returned a Coach Leather Jacket because of a video on YouTube showing a patina color. Actual jacket that arrived looked nothing like it so back it went and bought a Schott.
That jacket was a knock of an RRL piece actually. That was my first 5 Star. “The Learning Curve” jacket. LOL.
 

Gr8Lakes

Familiar Face
Messages
72
Location
Mid-Michigan, USA
It certainly wasn’t. Shawn did exactly as I asked. The problem was what I asked for. LOL.
I have anxiety about this! I gave very detailed instructions, so I’ll be getting precisely what I asked for.

I’m extremely grateful for the advice given by @Canuck Panda , and have read so much of what the others have advised about proper fit, so I’m confident(ish). But, this is my first truly bespoke jacket, versus an adjusted test jacket. So… It’s a little bit of nervous anticipation.
 
Messages
17,493
Location
Chicago
I have anxiety about this! I gave very detailed instructions, so I’ll be getting precisely what I asked for.

I’m extremely grateful for the advice given by @Canuck Panda , and have read so much of what the others have advised about proper fit, so I’m confident(ish). But, this is my first truly bespoke jacket, versus an adjusted test jacket. So… It’s a little bit of nervous anticipation.
If you aren’t nervous about a custom made jacket, regardless who made it, then you know something nobody else on the planet does! Nerves are good. Keeps it lively.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,849
Location
East Java
I understand completely because more of your back muscles will be included if the p2p is higher.
I am not sure if it has high arm holes but sleeve diameter seems large for Japanese models. Maybe You might be able to tell if they look higher.

I just appreciate the attention to details like like French seams along the arms and where the kidney panel attaches really just makes in love with it. I’m wont buy without proper research. But as far as J100 sizes run, this is the only model I know which isn’t really long in the body for the larger size I require.
I would have to alter the sleeves because you see how my sleeves fit on my 5star @ 61 cm and 49cm shoulder.
The beck has 51cm shoulder and 66cm sleeves.
● Product name: TMJ1728 Toys McCoy
● Materials : Horsehide
● Tanning: Vegetable Burgrome combination
● Finish: Pigment
● Zipper: TALON

● 36S size: Shoulder width 43, Sleeve length 62, Length 60, Width 51
● 38M size: Shoulder width 45, Sleeve length 63・ Length 61 ・ Width 53
● 40L size: Shoulder width 47 ・ Sleeve length 64 ・ Length 62 ・ Width 55
● 42XL size: Shoulder width 49 ・ Sleeve length 65 ・ Length 63 ・ Width 57
● 44XXL size: Shoulder width 51 cm・ Sleeve length 66 cm・ Length 64 ・ P2P Width 59 cm, hem is 55cm

● Wearing model
Height 168 cm Weight 60 kg
We are wearing 36S size in a normal system.
honest personal opinion here, I'm not impressed with the fit at all worn by the model there.

on the + side
I think the shoulder slope looks good, the collar looks fit and the length of the jacket is fine, chest pocket placement is fine too.

on the - side
the back is just a mess on him I don't know if the model is posing with exaggerated chest flaunt to pull the jacketup to look neat from the front or what, but in that rear shot it was a mess there, and the upper sleeve circumference is just too big, and also how the chest zip closing to the side instead of closing to the center.
 

Damon141

Practically Family
Messages
928
honest personal opinion here, I'm not impressed with the fit at all worn by the model there.

on the + side
I think the shoulder slope looks good, the collar looks fit and the length of the jacket is fine, chest pocket placement is fine too.

on the - side
the back is just a mess on him I don't know if the model is posing with exaggerated chest flaunt to pull the jacketup to look neat from the front or what, but in that rear shot it was a mess there, and the upper sleeve circumference is just too big, and also how the chest zip closing to the side instead of closing to the center.
Ofcourse 100% agree, terrible model for the cut. If it is the picture I’m thinking of I just added it to show that it looks a little more generous in the bicep area than some Japanese cafe racers. I think the model was like 5’6” 120lbs also
 

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