Five Star Leather Jackets

[Damon141]

No unfortunately it is from Japan so no returns and with my mistake With a non custom Himel, I refuse to do that again.
I believe the chest would fit and fit loosely with extra cardiovascular work.
BUT those shoulders are (51cm) 2cm wider than the 5 star (49) and truthfully I probably would look better with 46-46cm shoulders.

The price is $500usd less than the great RMC J100 but has those extra little details that make it unique in comparison.
A perfect world the body would fit and I could have the sleeves altered by great leather for $15O and still be lower than the J100.

Too but of a risk?
I don’t want my heart to lead my head.

 

[MrProper]

No unfortunately it is from Japan so no returns and with my mistake With a non custom Himel, I refuse to do that again.
I believe the chest would fit and fit loosely with extra cardiovascular work.
BUT those shoulders are (51cm) 2cm wider than the 5 star (49) and truthfully I probably would look better with 46-46cm shoulders.

The price is $500usd less than the great RMC J100 but has those extra little details that make it unique in comparison.
A perfect world the body would fit and I could have the sleeves altered by great leather for $15O and still be lower than the J100.

Too but of a risk?
I don’t want my heart to lead my head.

Of course, only everyone can decide that for themselves. Personally, the risk would be too high. The probability that it won't fit is not that small. And if you prefer narrower rather than wider shoulders, then it just doesn't fit.

 

[Rugby]

If it’s Horween Vermont HH then it will work very well with buttons. CXL No.
Bison is usually 5oz +, but the button holer machine max out about 3.5oz. Talk to the guys at Johnson and see what they say. I changed my 5oz trucker to snaps because of the button holer limitation. Anything is possible but I didn’t wanna risk it.

That's good to know. Thank you. It seems that I've got a bunch of changes to ask of them. It's ok though because they said it'll take a few months and three fittings for the car coat.
But I'm really itching to get that cossack from 5*, before they jack their prices up.

 

[MrProper]

 

[Canuck Panda]

Strange. For me it's the other way around. The higher the armholes, the more P2P I need. The lower the armholes, the less P2P is needed.
Which is logical from my measurements, though. A V-shape has more circumference at the upper part of the V than at the middle part.
From the freedom of movement, however, I agree with you that a deep armhole may still need more P2P, because the jacket must also move more with each arm movement.
However, I'm assuming really deep armholes, which are more likely to be found in 80s/90s jackets.

Everyone's body is not the same. I was strictly pointing out the way stock patterns are cut. With 5Star custom pattern there is no limits of what can be done.
Aero 50s pattern blocks are low arm holes. So are every American motorcycle jackets (LW, Vanson...etc). I would think these patterns were from the 40s and onwards. I have not experienced a real 30s pattern so I don't know yet. Thedi on the hand has very high arm holes, so their XL has P2P 22.5", same as the 5Star size 44. But the size 44 GW has 23.5", so does the Vanson Highwayman in 44. Just different ways of attaching the sleeves, and only applies to stock pattern jackets. Custom doesn't follow these rules, although my theory is that most custom jackets are nip / tucks of stock patterns. Very time consuming to create bespoke. But some 5Star photos seems to be full on bespoke. Cheaper labor rates helps.

 

[Canuck Panda]

That's good to know. Thank you. It seems that I've got a bunch of changes to ask of them. It's ok though because they said it'll take a few months and three fittings for the car coat.
But I'm really itching to get that cossack from 5*, before they jack their prices up.

When the leather is too thick for the modern button holers it will fray with wear, like on this 4.5oz jacket:

There is an old method of hand sewing the button holes. But no one really does it anymore. It doesn't look pretty, but will work no matter how thick the material is. Ancient wisdom:

There is also the tiny welt pocket method which Lewis Leather uses on the archive patterns, which I think Johnson can do, and if anyone ask for a thick 5Star cossack could consider this type of construction instead of the modern button holer:

 

[MrProper]

I once wanted the handmade ones from FiveStar. And they have delivered.

 

[Canuck Panda]

^^^ Get this people! It takes the button jackets up a whole new level. The main reason I went back to back Lewis jackets were because the way they did the button holes. I didn't know Shawn did them like this too.

@MrProper You just sold me a 5Star Cossack, Shawn need to cut you a check.

Had I known about this I would've gotten buttons on my 2mm jackets...

 

[unhatted]

The suspense! Apparently should be here by weds. Any UK 5*ers know if 5* jackets tend to incur UK customs fees?

 

[Rugby]

When the leather is too thick for the modern button holers it will fray with wear, like on this 4.5oz jacket:
View attachment 416881

There is an old method of hand sewing the button holes. But no one really does it anymore. It doesn't look pretty, but will work no matter how thick the material is. Ancient wisdom:
View attachment 416882
There is also the tiny welt pocket method which Lewis Leather uses on the archive patterns, which I think Johnson can do, and if anyone ask for a thick 5Star cossack could consider this type of construction instead of the modern button holer:
View attachment 416883

I will definitely ask them about that. The details! I'm going full @MrProper on my orders and using your data/pictures. I want my next 5* to be perfect. I'm not worried about Johnson because we get at least two fittings before the final go.

 

[Gr8Lakes]

View attachment 416810

This is really exceptional craftsmanship. It makes me wonder if Shawn has multiple sewing pros, or if the custom jackets go to a more qualified person. Either way, I've yet to hear any complaints about jacket construction.

I've had my custom CR in process for a few weeks now, so I'm inclined to believe 5* is pretty busy right now. Each communication with Shawn has been via email Shawn.fivestarleather@gmail.com, and usually takes a couple days for a response. I'm quite patient and chill, so that's a good response time considering vastly different time zones.

 

[Canuck Panda]

View attachment 416907
The suspense! Apparently should be here by weds. Any UK 5*ers know if 5* jackets tend to incur UK customs fees?

Yes, but not a lot. He declares lower value. You will get a notice to pay duty from DHL didn't you? I usually get the notice to pay duty when the box is still in Sialkot. My last 5Star jacket DHL charged me 40 Canadian dollars in customs and duty. So Shawn must've declared its value under USD100 because it's 15 dollars just for DHL process fee.

 

[Damon141]

Everyone's body is not the same. I was strictly pointing out the way stock patterns are cut. With 5Star custom pattern there is no limits of what can be done.
Aero 50s pattern blocks are low arm holes. So are every American motorcycle jackets (LW, Vanson...etc). I would think these patterns were from the 40s and onwards. I have not experienced a real 30s pattern so I don't know yet. Thedi on the hand has very high arm holes, so their XL has P2P 22.5", same as the 5Star size 44. But the size 44 GW has 23.5", so does the Vanson Highwayman in 44. Just different ways of attaching the sleeves, and only applies to stock pattern jackets.

I think the way MrPropers question to me on of the jacket I had in mind had high arm holes was to see if I could get away with a slightly smaller p2p. I’m my case if the arm holes are high then the chest measurements will be higher and include a greater amount of back muscle where low arm holes could include less back muscle leading to a lower p2p.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think the way MrPropers question to me on of the jacket I had in mind had high arm holes was to see if I could get away with a slightly smaller p2p. I’m my case if the arm holes are high then the chest measurements will be higher and include a greater amount of back muscle where low arm holes could include less back muscle leading to a lower p2p.

@Damon141 I am going against the flow but only with intend for you to get a better jacket.

IMHO, your Himel J100 fitted just fine in the upper part of the upper body. Period.
All it needed was a nip and tuck at the waist. That's it. Even with the boxed out waist your Himel fitted you better than the 5Star from the neck down to the waist.

Forget about all the high arm hole low arm hole and their relation to P2P.

I have a Himel in stock size 44L, below pic compared to the 5Star 44R. Himel P2P is 23.5" and 5Star is 22.5". Both have same 19" ish shoulder, but fit very differently. The Himel cut fits your muscle frame better. A customized 5Star either based on their low or high arm hole block just won't do it.

Left Himel 44L, Right 5Star 44R

I would seriously suggest to just copy your Himel measurements exactly, but with smaller waist and hem measurements and different lengths.

 

[Damon141]

@Damon141 I am going against the flow but only with intend for you to get a better jacket.

IMHO, your Himel J100 fitted just fine in the upper part of the upper body. Period.
All it needed was a nip and tuck at the waist. That's it. Even with the boxed out waist your Himel fitted you better than the 5Star from the neck down to the waist.

Forget about all the high arm hole low arm hole and their relation to P2P.

I have a Himel in stock size 44L, below pic compared to the 5Star 44R. Himel P2P is 23.5" and 5Star is 22.5". Both have same 19" ish shoulder, but fit very differently. The Himel cut fits your muscle frame better. A customized 5Star either based on their low or high arm hole block just won't do it.

Left Himel 44L, Right 5Star 44R

I would seriously suggest to just copy your Himel measurements exactly, but with smaller waist and hem measurements and different lengths.

Funny because I actually regretted selling it almost immediately. Like you said just some alterations would have given me a fine jacket. The sleeves were too bulky looking but also 3” too long so if I would have had JL or Dena shorten them and bring the 43” hem to 21”. It would have fit fine. The shoulders were pointing but that would have went away or a could have rounded then myself.

I bought it from someone that didn’t like it for $1,900 and unloaded it to a member here for $1,200, such a loss and a great deal. The guy I sold it to didn’t even respond back when I politely asked if he received it okay. Like he was upset.

 

[MrProper]

Funny because I actually regretted selling it almost immediately.

In my opinion, unnecessary.
I don't know much about alterations to jackets, but I would imagine that if a sleeve needs to be massively shortened, the bend at the elbow may no longer fit (if the sleeve has a bend). When shortening the jacket, the proportions may no longer be correct. E.g. breast pockets may be too far down.
Your jacket was certainly too long for this style.
Many years ago I had massive alterations made to some garments and then never wore them because somehow it didn't look the way it was supposed to. Since then I let such things be and change only slightly.

 

[Damon141]

Sleeve did have quite the curve. They were 27” accross the outside and would need atleast 3-4” to fit properly.

If you had to shorten a sleeve what is the maximum you would remove without worrying about the the fit ?

 

[MrProper]

Sleeve did have quite the curve. They were 27” accross the outside and would need atleast 3-4” to fit properly.

If you had to shorten a sleeve what is the maximum you would remove without worrying about the the fit ?

I think I would tuck the sleeves in to the desired length and then see how it looks in the different positions.
Like it, go. If not, then I leave it ;-)

 

[Rugby]

Sleeve did have quite the curve. They were 27” accross the outside and would need atleast 3-4” to fit properly.

If you had to shorten a sleeve what is the maximum you would remove without worrying about the the fit ?

Damon, that jacket was about 88% you. I'm not a professor like @MrProper, but I think the needed alterations would've been minor to have any affect in the general look and fit of the jacket. To be honest with you, if we liked cafe racer type jackets (and the shoulders were wider), I would've picked it off of your hands. The length was spot on.

 

[Damon141]

Damon, that jacket was about 88% you. I'm not a professor like @MrProper, but I think the needed alterations would've been minor to have any affect in the general look and fit of the jacket. To be honest with you, if we liked cafe racer type jackets (and the shoulders were wider), I would've picked it off of your hands. The length was spot on.

You know this was when I first joined the board and had not a clue about jackets. I still don’t but I have learned a lot.

I thought they all had to fit like this j100 picture. Then I saw in real life that people really were not always wearing them so tight.
Look at Bradley Cooper and Dennis Leary.

Then see this custom Himel Kensington which from his build and the gym in the background I’m assuming he works out and might be too bulky to pull off the skin tight look.

Then there is John Chapman a great maker of jackets abs his is close but not tight

The next 2 are of the ELMC J100 which are 2 of my favorite fit pictures

If you go too tight and have weight on you then you end up with this last one