Marc mndt
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Goodwear stitching:
If this was my jacket I would have sent it back.
(I'm not saying/implying all GW jackets are like this, but this example is pretty bad)
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Five Star Leather Jackets
- Thread starter TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead
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If this was my jacket I would have sent it back.
(I'm not saying/implying all GW jackets are like this, but this example is pretty bad)
I wonder if it’s these guy just getting a little older. Older usually means eyesight going possible steadiness of hand. My Himel was the same, for that price I would expect absolute perfection.
I’d be horrified if I waited 4 years for that.
From what I’ve seen is Lost World has great stitching atleast from my eyes viewing pictures.
I’d be horrified if I waited 4 years for that.
From what I’ve seen is Lost World has great stitching atleast from my eyes viewing pictures.
Marc mndt
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I don't know I'm not a machinist so this is mere speculation. But I don't think this (the puckering, sloppy stitching) has to do with eyesight. An experienced machinist will rely on muscle memory.
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That's absolutely brutal! My worst, cheapest junk jacket, never looked that bad. I wonder what would cause the transistion from even to micro spaced stitching? I'm not a stitching nut by any means but that is abhorrent!
morrison2951
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I wonder if it's more noticeable because of the red thread.
For sure it is....black hide and thread and it would disappear. Surprised that made it out of QC though.
@MrProper is spot on with his observations on how the jacket drapes depending on body type and proportions. I have found it difficult to convey to makers how I would want the jacket to fit me. If they provide fitting options, such as a mock jacket, it is fine, otherwise it's a bit of a gamble. @MrProper has a PhD in body measurement/fit communication. I feel I am at college sophomore level. I will be sending back my 5* jacket for alterations. Not only does it have a wide waist but also the neck opening is 27". My thigh fits through that. But since this is the first one at that price, I am not completely bummed out. I am going to make another attempt with 5* and I'm sure this time it'll be fine.
I think that the leather jacket professors on this forum, @MrProper, @Canuck Panda and @ton312, should coauthor a consumer's guide to ordering the perfect custom leather jacket
I’ve got a 1.2mm black goatskin jacket currently in progress which I think they are basing on this pattern - I had emailed asking for a stripped down perfecto type and they sent what I’m pretty sure are their own shots of this!
I‘ve sent them images of a 3sixteen X Schott 519 (was this an inspiration for yours?) and asked them to tweak the pocket sizes and placement based on those dimensions, but with a Vanson C2 for collar shape reference (not a fan of Schott’s shallow angle on the bottom lapel) and measurements based on a couple of jackets which fit well. If they get it right it will be my platonic ideal of a double rider - now the tense wait for QC photos followed by a tenser wait to see how it fits…
Canuck Panda
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@Rugby The waist info:
Waist (below chest, above belly button) dimensions reference:
My motorcycle fit (The slimmest I can go and still be functional) is relaxed waist measurement plus 4.5". There is roughly a 1.5" expansion when I inhale fully. The more athletic guys will have maybe 2" breathing expansion.
My regular fit (relax fit consider by most), is relaxed waist measurements plus 7". It seems a lot, but that's what these truckers measure at the waist, with a soft tape going all the way around.
These truckers, one is 5 star, one is Aero, both measures 42" around the diaphragm area.
Shawn's trucker pattern by default bags out at the center of the torso. Mine was already nipped a few inches from original. This is where the half belt style or anything with a high waist cinch will inherently work better by design.
Keep running those 20m drills!
Waist (below chest, above belly button) dimensions reference:
My motorcycle fit (The slimmest I can go and still be functional) is relaxed waist measurement plus 4.5". There is roughly a 1.5" expansion when I inhale fully. The more athletic guys will have maybe 2" breathing expansion.
My regular fit (relax fit consider by most), is relaxed waist measurements plus 7". It seems a lot, but that's what these truckers measure at the waist, with a soft tape going all the way around.
These truckers, one is 5 star, one is Aero, both measures 42" around the diaphragm area.
Shawn's trucker pattern by default bags out at the center of the torso. Mine was already nipped a few inches from original. This is where the half belt style or anything with a high waist cinch will inherently work better by design.
Keep running those 20m drills!
Oh that's interesting! Were they these photos?
Yeah, I slightly misplaced and mis-sized a few things. I was just going off memory from an old 519 I had. Live and learn I guess haha. I also wanted a more stripped down perfecto and had always wanted the 3sixteen x schott version haha.
Despite some of my mess ups, the fit is absolutely perfect on mine and really is a pleasure to wear.
I like the choice of the Vanson C2 collar shape alot! The Vanson C2RN was another one I thought about copying.
Really hope your jacket works out, be sure to specify and be precise about as many things as impossible and it will fit amazingly.
Attachments
That's really good documented information. Thank you!
Shawn replied to my email requesting how to go about getting alterations done, and asked me to send them fit pictures of the jacket. Hopefully the whole thing will be rectified. Oh yeah, by the way, the neck opening is huge as well.
How does the Aero leather, if it's HH, compare to 5*? I think the Aero looks damn good. Actually they both look good.
20m...more like 10 at this point. After one joins the over 55 club, things start hurting...
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I like that one.Ordered the 1930s halfbelt in 2mm HH
If Shawn gets my sizing in order I'm going to get that and the cossack.
Ordered the 1930s halfbelt in 2mm HH
You ordered recently? I had asked him about the 2 mm HH but he said it was all gone
Canuck Panda
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More on my fit discoveries:
Shoulder slope / sleeve attachment angel will affect (the feel of) overall back length, and the feel of overall movement.
Shoulder imo is the most important fit on anything. Everything else can be nipped and tucked, but shoulder is what the garment hangs on and it also dictates how well everything moves.
The way I measure my shoulder is by going around the shoulder curve. Easiest way to do this is to measure the best fitting dress shirt (non stretch), along the curve, not straight across, between seam to seam. Mine works out to be 18.75" around the curve. And I've found shoulders measured 19" straight across or more works. Shoulders that measured in the 18" straight across can also work only if there is full action back. The curve measurement will always be a bit longer than the straight across.
There are two types of shoulders, square and rounded. Most of the leather jackets on Instagram have square shoulders. I personally prefer rounded because it doesn't angle up when turning, and thus does not pull the leather from the upper and lower back. I wouldn't call this a mobility thing. Both types works well, just different looks, and different spots getting tight when moving.
The 5star trucker has "square" shoulders. The Aero trucker has "rounded" shoulders. The Johnson biker has the middle of the two and additional full swing back. Notice how the leather pulls when arm rotated in the photo.
That's all I've got. I measured up a bunch of my jacket last night, and found this. The 5Star and the Aero has almost identical measurements, but feels so different. Looks very different just laying flat. But wears different, feels different. I've always thought they had different armholes. But both measured out the same, and that drove me nuts, but also lead me to this post.
I've got two different Johnson truckers coming. Will find out if there is even more difference between all the truckers.
This post is simply showing the differences. I am not saying which is better or worse. I am keeping both so obviously I dig both just the way they are. Just sharing info.
Shoulder slope / sleeve attachment angel will affect (the feel of) overall back length, and the feel of overall movement.
Shoulder imo is the most important fit on anything. Everything else can be nipped and tucked, but shoulder is what the garment hangs on and it also dictates how well everything moves.
The way I measure my shoulder is by going around the shoulder curve. Easiest way to do this is to measure the best fitting dress shirt (non stretch), along the curve, not straight across, between seam to seam. Mine works out to be 18.75" around the curve. And I've found shoulders measured 19" straight across or more works. Shoulders that measured in the 18" straight across can also work only if there is full action back. The curve measurement will always be a bit longer than the straight across.
There are two types of shoulders, square and rounded. Most of the leather jackets on Instagram have square shoulders. I personally prefer rounded because it doesn't angle up when turning, and thus does not pull the leather from the upper and lower back. I wouldn't call this a mobility thing. Both types works well, just different looks, and different spots getting tight when moving.
The 5star trucker has "square" shoulders. The Aero trucker has "rounded" shoulders. The Johnson biker has the middle of the two and additional full swing back. Notice how the leather pulls when arm rotated in the photo.
That's all I've got. I measured up a bunch of my jacket last night, and found this. The 5Star and the Aero has almost identical measurements, but feels so different. Looks very different just laying flat. But wears different, feels different. I've always thought they had different armholes. But both measured out the same, and that drove me nuts, but also lead me to this post.
I've got two different Johnson truckers coming. Will find out if there is even more difference between all the truckers.
This post is simply showing the differences. I am not saying which is better or worse. I am keeping both so obviously I dig both just the way they are. Just sharing info.
Wow, that really sounds like a lot. I have 89 cm and my best fitted jackets are 98 cm. So about 3.5 inches more. But I also like it rather tight.
I had ordered them for some time, but did not yet know which jacket it will be. Now I have it fixed.
Ha, we clearly have similar taste in double riders! Interestingly it was not those photos, but I’m fairly sure it’s the same jacket - they look like they were taken with the intention of listing it as a stock item in future perhaps? It’s style no. 36572, apparently!
I sent pretty detailed measurements with an image for reference as below - as long as they measure in the same way I did (tape indicated by red line) it should fit perfectly, but there’s always the fear something will get lost in communication! I will be very happy if it fits as well as yours does.
Ha, we clearly have similar taste in double riders! Interestingly it was not those photos, but I’m fairly sure it’s the same jacket - they look like they were taken with the intention of listing it as a stock item in future perhaps? It’s style no. 36572, apparently!
I sent pretty detailed measurements with an image for reference as below - as long as they measure in the same way I did (tape indicated by red line) it should fit perfectly, but there’s always the fear something will get lost in communication! I will be very happy if it fits as well as yours does.
It does look like the same jacket! Yeah, the more measurements the better. If you wanted the collar a certain way, best to indicate measurements on that too if you have them
Canuck Panda
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Aero doesn't really do custom measurements, not on the trucker at least. But it's the only one that can come with a red tab like Levis. Be default it is also a more relaxed fit. They have quite the selection of leathers.
That's same as my moto fit. If I take in account of my breathing expansion, there is only 3" left (39.5"-35"-1.5"). And it's 4.5oz leather double lapel quilted lining. It feels next to skin.
That's why I prefer designs with waist cinches. Only truckers I know that comes with those are the Lee Rider designs.
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