Five Star Leather Jackets

[Canuck Panda]

2mm horsehide. Stock pattern/sizing, upgraded hardware.

Bad news first:
Stock sleeves are very slim. Same size as the slimmest Aero sleeves I have. I don't have big arms. That Aero slim sleeve jacket took me months to train (the rolls). This 2mm is softer than CXL but still, I had wished for regular sized sleeves that tapers down at the middle of the fore arm. The stock version of this jacket has 7.5" biceps, 6.5" elbow, I wish the sleeves were 8.5" bicep, 6.5" last 1/3 of the fore arm. The arm is bendable, but it pinches out of the box.

Good News:
Doesn't smell like gas like my first 2mm trucker, which still smells like gas. It could be the lining. This one has cotton lining, not synthetic.
This 2mm leather is really something. It's like a tea core (Shinki/Vicenza/Vermont) on steroids. It is not jet black though. Dark charcoal.
Contrasting top stitching are quite clean, for 5oz leather.
The new upgraded brass hardware is a must. Might not be period correct, but cast brass feels more solid than the flimsy metal ones.

Will shoot a few outside pics tomorrow when the sun comes out.

The 2mm horsehide is very much worth it. It is not a direct CXL replacement. It has the tea core grainy surface, but dark grey core. Soft, but thick. Very good stuff.

 

[ojaw]

That stuff is monstrous, have fun being broken in by it!

 

[Rugby]

2mm horsehide. Stock pattern/sizing, upgraded hardware.
View attachment 414965 View attachment 414966 View attachment 414967 View attachment 414968

Bad news first:
Stock sleeves are very slim. Same size as the slimmest Aero sleeves I have. I don't have big arms. That Aero slim sleeve jacket took me months to train (the rolls). This 2mm is softer than CXL but still, I had wished for regular sized sleeves that tapers down at the middle of the fore arm. The stock version of this jacket has 7.5" biceps, 6.5" elbow, I wish the sleeves were 8.5" bicep, 6.5" last 1/3 of the fore arm. The arm is bendable, but it pinches out of the box.
View attachment 414970

Good News:
Doesn't smell like gas like my first 2mm trucker, which still smells like gas. It could be the lining. This one has cotton lining, not synthetic.
This 2mm leather is really something. It's like a tea core (Shinki/Vicenza/Vermont) on steroids. It is not jet black though. Dark charcoal.
Contrasting top stitching are quite clean, for 5oz leather.
The new upgraded brass hardware is a must. Might not be period correct, but cast brass feels more solid than the flimsy metal ones.
View attachment 414972

Will shoot a few outside pics tomorrow when the sun comes out.

The 2mm horsehide is very much worth it. It is not a direct CXL replacement. It has the tea core grainy surface, but dark grey core. Soft, but thick. Very good stuff.

That IS a jacket. That's it. I'm gonna get the '30s HB in that leather.
Is that a #10 zipper? YKK?

 

[Gr8Lakes]

I know. There’s detailed… then there’s “MrProper Detailed“.

2mm horsehide. Stock pattern/sizing, upgraded hardware.
View attachment 414965 View attachment 414966 View attachment 414967 View attachment 414968

Bad news first:
Stock sleeves are very slim. Same size as the slimmest Aero sleeves I have. I don't have big arms. That Aero slim sleeve jacket took me months to train (the rolls). This 2mm is softer than CXL but still, I had wished for regular sized sleeves that tapers down at the middle of the fore arm. The stock version of this jacket has 7.5" biceps, 6.5" elbow, I wish the sleeves were 8.5" bicep, 6.5" last 1/3 of the fore arm. The arm is bendable, but it pinches out of the box.
View attachment 414970

Good News:
Doesn't smell like gas like my first 2mm trucker, which still smells like gas. It could be the lining. This one has cotton lining, not synthetic.
This 2mm leather is really something. It's like a tea core (Shinki/Vicenza/Vermont) on steroids. It is not jet black though. Dark charcoal.
Contrasting top stitching are quite clean, for 5oz leather.
The new upgraded brass hardware is a must. Might not be period correct, but cast brass feels more solid than the flimsy metal ones.
View attachment 414972

Will shoot a few outside pics tomorrow when the sun comes out.

The 2mm horsehide is very much worth it. It is not a direct CXL replacement. It has the tea core grainy surface, but dark grey core. Soft, but thick. Very good stuff.

Congrats! Well, at least we know where all the 2mm is going. Shawn didn’t have enough to do my jacket either, but we both figured the lighter HH would work better for the lightweight jacket I’m desiring.

But that’s a fine looking HB. Hard to tell from photos, but I’m guessing the stitching matches the lining. Just fantastic. If I were you I’d be turning the heat off and sleeping in it for the rest of winter/early spring. It needs to be broken, and then it’ll look even more amazing.

And I think the fit is phenomenal. Perfect amount of cinch, excellent length and width, and even the width of the arms looks cool. Hopefully you can a fit long-sleeve button up shirt into the arms without creasing the heck out it. Hate for this to be a short-sleeve-shirt only jacket.

But, it’s great looking. The grain is cool, color is cool, hardware is superb… I’d be very happy if I were you. As for the arms, I read something about a tapered, insulated, Thermos stretching some forearms (anxious to see the fit results of that @Damon141 ). What can we think of that’s bicep shaped? Then again, you’d probably blow out stitching before stretching that beastly hide! I’m betting it’ll give a little with wear and body heat.

Great jacket. Better stop buying and start breaking them in. Too many new jackets. (1st world problems, right?). Congrats again.

…. I mean, really, wouldn’t you be worried if you were in the high priced, bespoke leather jackets industry right now? These are great value! Great jackets for very fair prices. Not cheap, but not luxury cost. Just fair leather price, with custom fit. Shawn is just crushing it by putting up with the extra work of dealing with customer’s personal requests, and sometimes corrections. 5* customer service is just phenomenal.

 

[MrProper]

2mm horsehide. Stock pattern/sizing, upgraded hardware.
View attachment 414965 View attachment 414966 View attachment 414967 View attachment 414968

Bad news first:
Stock sleeves are very slim. Same size as the slimmest Aero sleeves I have. I don't have big arms. That Aero slim sleeve jacket took me months to train (the rolls). This 2mm is softer than CXL but still, I had wished for regular sized sleeves that tapers down at the middle of the fore arm. The stock version of this jacket has 7.5" biceps, 6.5" elbow, I wish the sleeves were 8.5" bicep, 6.5" last 1/3 of the fore arm. The arm is bendable, but it pinches out of the box.
View attachment 414970

Good News:
Doesn't smell like gas like my first 2mm trucker, which still smells like gas. It could be the lining. This one has cotton lining, not synthetic.
This 2mm leather is really something. It's like a tea core (Shinki/Vicenza/Vermont) on steroids. It is not jet black though. Dark charcoal.
Contrasting top stitching are quite clean, for 5oz leather.
The new upgraded brass hardware is a must. Might not be period correct, but cast brass feels more solid than the flimsy metal ones.
View attachment 414972

Will shoot a few outside pics tomorrow when the sun comes out.

The 2mm horsehide is very much worth it. It is not a direct CXL replacement. It has the tea core grainy surface, but dark grey core. Soft, but thick. Very good stuff.

Congratulations. It may be tight, but it looks pretty darn good.
I'm looking forward to mine. Copied/ordered your hardware, by the way.
Should you order this model again, I would move the chest pockets down a bit. But is of course a matter of taste.

 

[Yamahana]

2mm horsehide. Stock pattern/sizing, upgraded hardware.
View attachment 414965 View attachment 414966 View attachment 414967 View attachment 414968

Bad news first:
Stock sleeves are very slim. Same size as the slimmest Aero sleeves I have. I don't have big arms. That Aero slim sleeve jacket took me months to train (the rolls). This 2mm is softer than CXL but still, I had wished for regular sized sleeves that tapers down at the middle of the fore arm. The stock version of this jacket has 7.5" biceps, 6.5" elbow, I wish the sleeves were 8.5" bicep, 6.5" last 1/3 of the fore arm. The arm is bendable, but it pinches out of the box.
View attachment 414970

Good News:
Doesn't smell like gas like my first 2mm trucker, which still smells like gas. It could be the lining. This one has cotton lining, not synthetic.
This 2mm leather is really something. It's like a tea core (Shinki/Vicenza/Vermont) on steroids. It is not jet black though. Dark charcoal.
Contrasting top stitching are quite clean, for 5oz leather.
The new upgraded brass hardware is a must. Might not be period correct, but cast brass feels more solid than the flimsy metal ones.
View attachment 414972

Will shoot a few outside pics tomorrow when the sun comes out.

The 2mm horsehide is very much worth it. It is not a direct CXL replacement. It has the tea core grainy surface, but dark grey core. Soft, but thick. Very good stuff.

Looks awesome, what is the cuff? 5.5"?

 

[Canuck Panda]

That IS a jacket. That's it. I'm gonna get the '30s HB in that leather.
Is that a #10 zipper? YKK?

Yes #10 YKK.
Make sure Shawn gets your size fit right on the trucker first. That’d be your fit jacket at 5star.

I know. There’s detailed… then there’s “MrProper Detailed“.

Congrats! Well, at least we know where all the 2mm is going. Shawn didn’t have enough to do my jacket either, but we both figured the lighter HH would work better for the lightweight jacket I’m desiring.

But that’s a fine looking HB. Hard to tell from photos, but I’m guessing the stitching matches the lining. Just fantastic. If I were you I’d be turning the heat off and sleeping in it for the rest of winter/early spring. It needs to be broken, and then it’ll look even more amazing.

And I think the fit is phenomenal. Perfect amount of cinch, excellent length and width, and even the width of the arms looks cool. Hopefully you can a fit long-sleeve button up shirt into the arms without creasing the heck out it. Hate for this to be a short-sleeve-shirt only jacket.

But, it’s great looking. The grain is cool, color is cool, hardware is superb… I’d be very happy if I were you. As for the arms, I read something about a tapered, insulated, Thermos stretching some forearms (anxious to see the fit results of that @Damon141 ). What can we think of that’s bicep shaped? Then again, you’d probably blow out stitching before stretching that beastly hide! I’m betting it’ll give a little with wear and body heat.

Great jacket. Better stop buying and start breaking them in. Too many new jackets. (1st world problems, right?). Congrats again.

…. I mean, really, wouldn’t you be worried if you were in the high priced, bespoke leather jackets industry right now? These are great value! Great jackets for very fair prices. Not cheap, but not luxury cost. Just fair leather price, with custom fit. Shawn is just crushing it by putting up with the extra work of dealing with customer’s personal requests, and sometimes corrections. 5* customer service is just phenomenal.

Yes. Good eye. Olive cotton lining. It’s thick like the drill but smooth surface.
The sleeve on this one is slim but my arm still fits through just fine. It’s when I bend the arms the rolls digs into the skin. its Still wearable but I’d prefer looser arms like for the utility purpose.
This is it for me. Unless a dark seal 2mm horsehide leather becomes an option.
Most US brands guarantees their sales. And that means free remake sometimes. It’s tough. Shawn doesn’t offer free remakes but his prices reflects that. This thread shares a lot of info to increase our odds at getting the right jacket.

Congratulations. It may be tight, but it looks pretty darn good.
I'm looking forward to mine. Copied/ordered your hardware, by the way.
Should you order this model again, I would move the chest pockets down a bit. But is of course a matter of taste.

Thanks And no problem. I copied many of your details all the time! Thanks for sharing.
Yes the pockets are set high. I hope I get use to them with wears. I would almost want to tilt them so they look lowered but still provide the deep pocket.
i think you’ll like this 2mm leather. It’s feels a bit thicker than the CXL but softer to wear. Had I seen your PDF file before I would’ve remembered to ask for soft shoulder.

Looks awesome, what is the cuff? 5.5"?

Thanks.
No, cuff is only 5” flat when zipped. This is stock, and probably one of the slimmest ones in his offering.

 

[Bahabp100]

.
i think you’ll like this 2mm leather. It’s feels a bit thicker than the CXL but softer to wear.

With all the talk about trucker patterns I’d thought I’d share a Wrangler trucker variant I have and am thinking for Shawn to recreate in horsehide and shearling . This version has double riders style collar and snaps all the way up . What do you all think . 124 MJ Sherpa variant

 

[Aloysius]

The green is the color I most wanted but I showed my wife and she freaked out. She is 27 years old and if doesn’t say Lois Vuitton, Chloe, Burberry etc, it can’t be any good. I tried to explain the difference between a bespoke jacket and a mass produced handbag with a designer label and it goes straight over her head.

In this year wait for a Field Leather jacket I wanted another custom, probably mandarin collar because that’s what she likes but I’m not spending what Himel charges, Goodwear (4 year wait) JL Dont like his current designs with mandarin collars, that leaves LL super sportsman or LW J100. I can’t think of anyone else.

Just tell her that Lewis Leathers is the jacket partner of Commes des Garçons. (It's true!)

Goodwear stitching:

If this was my jacket I would have sent it back.

(I'm not saying/implying all GW jackets are like this, but this example is pretty bad)

View attachment 414727

There's a reason for this. Good Wear will do jackets replicating all the flaws of the mass produced war A-2s. There's a name he has for it, which I'm forgetting.

There's a division among collectors of those repros, over whether those elements should be improved or not. Ken is pretty firmly of the school that the patterns should be accurate, but the stitching choices that came out of mass production and wartime shortages should not be replicated. People get angry at him for this though. GW caters to both sides.

That’s the 3sixteen X Schott! They do look pretty similar though - your drawings from memory must have been good…

This is yours, right?

You should have someone take a picture, with measuring tape, of an actual Perfecto's ticket pocket so yours doesn't come out looking disproportionately skimpy like this one did. I would have volunteered (and attached a pic to this very post) but I've sent my Perfecto to Schott for a repair.

 

[Marc mndt]

There's a reason for this. Good Wear will do jackets replicating all the flaws of the mass produced war A-2s. There's a name he has for it, which I'm forgetting.

There's a division among collectors of those repros, over whether those elements should be improved or not. Ken is pretty firmly of the school that the patterns should be accurate, but the stitching choices that came out of mass production and wartime shortages should not be replicated. People get angry at him for this though. GW caters to both sides.

I have a hard time believing that these flaws were made intentionally. This is a pre war jacket design. These were not made with cost efficiency in mind like the A-2 contracts. Double topstitch, buttoned flap pockets combined with handwarmer pockets, cuff straps, center back gusset etc etc. This is a fancy jacket, not a utilitarian design.

 

[Monitor]

There's a reason for this. Good Wear will do jackets replicating all the flaws of the mass produced war A-2s. There's a name he has for it, which I'm forgetting.

Occasionally I wonder who came up with this brilliant excuse. Must've been DD and GW 'cause I can't think of any other maker dishing out jackets that were as badly made as theirs.

In any case, I am of a strong belief that a repro should be as accurate in pattern and technically perfect in execution as possible because that's what the originals supposed to have been and indeed occasionally were.

Faking something unintended is a deeply flawed, ridiculous lie.

 

[ton312]

2mm horsehide. Stock pattern/sizing, upgraded hardware.
View attachment 414965 View attachment 414966 View attachment 414967 View attachment 414968

Bad news first:
Stock sleeves are very slim. Same size as the slimmest Aero sleeves I have. I don't have big arms. That Aero slim sleeve jacket took me months to train (the rolls). This 2mm is softer than CXL but still, I had wished for regular sized sleeves that tapers down at the middle of the fore arm. The stock version of this jacket has 7.5" biceps, 6.5" elbow, I wish the sleeves were 8.5" bicep, 6.5" last 1/3 of the fore arm. The arm is bendable, but it pinches out of the box.
View attachment 414970

Good News:
Doesn't smell like gas like my first 2mm trucker, which still smells like gas. It could be the lining. This one has cotton lining, not synthetic.
This 2mm leather is really something. It's like a tea core (Shinki/Vicenza/Vermont) on steroids. It is not jet black though. Dark charcoal.
Contrasting top stitching are quite clean, for 5oz leather.
The new upgraded brass hardware is a must. Might not be period correct, but cast brass feels more solid than the flimsy metal ones.
View attachment 414972

Will shoot a few outside pics tomorrow when the sun comes out.

The 2mm horsehide is very much worth it. It is not a direct CXL replacement. It has the tea core grainy surface, but dark grey core. Soft, but thick. Very good stuff.

My GOD I hope he restocks this leather. I missed it and bought another Browns Beach instead. I need an HB in this. Looks superb!

 

[Aloysius]

Occasionally I wonder who came up with this brilliant excuse. Must've been DD and GW 'cause I can't think of any other maker dishing out jackets that were as badly made as theirs.

This isn’t fair because people specifically request it. Likewise people specifically request Aero A-2s to be made by apprentices to be closer to the skill level of a wartime factory employee.

DD learned about A-2s from GW but the two are not in the same quality tier at all.

 

[nottommykay]

Their

hey everyone.

I've seen this brand pop up in a few random threads. Great looking photos, very stylish fits. What am I missing? Are they good for the money or just flat out good?

I might order something to test out, but that D1 Mechanics jacket keeps catching my eye at sub $400. That's quite a discount to any of the higher end bombers from Schott, Aero, etc.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/coll...ilot-aviation-flight-sheepskin-leather-jacket

Also, the sizing seems weird. If you don't mind, post some jackets you picked up, what size and how that compares to other sizing you've done with other brands. TIA.

I would advise ignoring their sizing system. I had ordered a size 40 half belt jacket and it ended up being comically large. Long story short, I ended up going getting an in store credit and ordering a size 36 (my true chest size). I would assume their steer hide is corrected, but it is pretty darn thick. The jacket ended up weighing around five pounds. Although real snug at first, my new jacket has conformed to my body very well. I think their jackets have tremendous value, and pay homage to the Hercules brand and Monarch of Milwaukee in my opinion.

hey everyone.

I've seen this brand pop up in a few random threads. Great looking photos, very stylish fits. What am I missing? Are they good for the money or just flat out good?

I might order something to test out, but that D1 Mechanics jacket keeps catching my eye at sub $400. That's quite a discount to any of the higher end bombers from Schott, Aero, etc.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/coll...ilot-aviation-flight-sheepskin-leather-jacket

Also, the sizing seems weird. If you don't mind, post some jackets you picked up, what size and how that compares to other sizing you've done with other brands. TIA.

 

[Marc mndt]

Likewise people specifically request Aero A-2s to be made by apprentices to be closer to the skill level of a wartime factory employee.

This jacket has nothing to do with the production of war contract A-2's.

This isn’t fair because people specifically request it.

I wonder whether someone requested his GW jacket to be sloppily made. Aero charges less for their flawed apprentice made jackets. Does GW do so too?

 

[ton312]

The original Admiral Byrd jacket did not (and would not) feature this level novice stitching. To be fair, NONE of my jackets from the 40's and 50's show that degree of error. It's quite obviously an "oops" not a design element ot attempt at authentcity. The military jackets were produced under entirely different circumstances. There is no comparison to the two that bears any relevance whatsoever. It's just an 'f up. Plain and simple.

 

[Canuck Panda]

With all the talk about trucker patterns I’d thought I’d share a Wrangler trucker variant I have and am thinking for Shawn to recreate in horsehide and shearling . This version has double riders style collar and snaps all the way up . What do you all think . 124 MJ Sherpa variant View attachment 414989 View attachment 414990 View attachment 414991 View attachment 414992 View attachment 414993 View attachment 414996 View attachment 414998

I've also got a 70s size 46 I wanted to send him. His trucker offerings could use some authentic expansion...

 

[Aloysius]

@unhatted, Schott let me know they finished the work on my jacket early. I should have it back next week and can take measurements/measuring tape photos of the coin pocket.

 

[Entropindigo]

I believe in previous posts it was stated that the black leathers used by 5* are struck through. Has anyone found a black that is "tea-core" from them (preferable HH)?

 

[Griemersma]

I got some leather samples from Shawn and thought I'd post some pictures here for reference. I asked him for an assortment of different browns. Here are some of them.

Indoors, window light:

Outdoors, slightly overcast:

Russets. Left to right, Goat, HH, Steer:

Seal Hides: