Five Star Leather Jackets

[Canuck Panda]

Slim fit or any kind of fit, is still fit, which means that when measurements are provided and there is a ratio between shoulder width, chest circumference and waist circumference, those ratios should be followed and applied to the garment ± any bias due to construction. I am no tailor or leathersmith, but just saying that that's why we provide dimensions and don't buy something that has a lot of XXXs and hope for the best.

Sorry. I meant no disrespect. I will now try to use rugby terms to explain myself.

If we were on the same rugby team, you're likely postion 1,3,4 or 5. More likely props than locks. Every one of my scrum teammates had trouble with their stock issue jersey. They've always chopped off the sleeves and / or used a lot of tape. I was always 11, 12, or 13, and only chopped off the sleeves to stay cool, and only used tape on my cleats.

What I was trying to say was, you would need different (sized) components from at least two to three differently sized jackets, smashed into one jacket, to get the fit. Even with online MTM, it will take a few tries.

 

[Rugby]

Sorry. I meant no disrespect. I will now try to use rugby terms to explain myself.

If we were on the same rugby team, you're likely postion 1,3,4 or 5. More likely props than locks. Every one of my scrum teammates had trouble with their stock issue jersey. They've always chopped off the sleeves and / or used a lot of tape. I was always 11, 12, or 13, and only chopped off the sleeves to stay cool, and only used tape on my cleats.

What I was trying to say was, you would need different (sized) components from at least two to three differently sized jackets, smashed into one jacket, to get the fit. Even with online MTM, it will take a few tries.

No need to apologize, especially since you're a member of the brotherhood of the dented head. I know what you're saying, I'm just a bit confused about at what degree do they use body measurements to make the garment. I suspect they just eyeball it and go with their established design. Now like @MrProper said after his first jacket with 5* they got it right. I emailed 5* about wanted to have some alterations done, but no response yet.
Oh, by the way, my usual position in rugby union was 5,6 or 8, although at a couple of times I filled in as a 12. In rugby league I was 11,12,or 13.
Where did you play, if I may ask?

 

[Canuck Panda]

No need to apologize, especially since you're a member of the brotherhood of the dented head. I know what you're saying, I'm just a bit confused about at what degree do they use body measurements to make the garment. I suspect they just eyeball it and go with their established design. Now like @MrProper said after his first jacket with 5* they got it right. I emailed 5* about wanted to have some alterations done, but no response yet.
Oh, by the way, my usual position in rugby union was 5,6 or 8, although at a couple of times I filled in as a 12. In rugby league I was 11,12,or 13.
Where did you play, if I may ask?

High school, 30 years ago. I tried out at the local club (Meraloma) afterwards, but didn't continue. One of the few things I wished I had done differently in life choices.
It also makes a lot of sense now. Flanker sized guy running down the center at winger speed. Explains the fit. Sorry I had mistaken you for a dad bod doing bench presses.
That 5Star trucker just isn't gonna cut it for you, especially in stock size. Shawn needs to take a good look at the measurements and give you a custom pattern.
I would suggest to give him your fit pic and your actual waist measurements, and let him know you like a close fit there, usually just +1" at the actual waist for a trim fit. The term athletic build gets marketed so much none of the stock patterns are actually cut for athletes. You might actually be Shawn's first rugby player customer. Not gonna sugar coat this, there is a lot more work to be done with your custom pattern than just pulling the waist in. The shoulders would also need more slope for the upper arms to work. I'll take a compare photo of my Aero trucker and 5Star trucker when I get home. The way Aero does the shoulders will fit your athletic frame better, but the bodice still needs more taper. Online MTM is not the same as in person MTM. There might be another "alteration" needed after this coming one.

 

[Rugby]

High school, 30 years ago. I tried out at the local club (Meraloma) afterwards, but didn't continue. One of the few things I wished I had done differently in life choices.
It also makes a lot of sense now. Flanker sized guy running down the center at winger speed. Explains the fit. Sorry I had mistaken you for a dad bod doing bench presses.
That 5Star trucker just isn't gonna cut it for you, especially in stock size. Shawn needs to take a good look at the measurements and give you a custom pattern.
I would suggest to give him your fit pic and your actual waist measurements, and let him know you like a close fit there, usually just +1" at the actual waist for a trim fit. The term athletic build gets marketed so much none of the stock patterns are actually cut for athletes. You might actually be Shawn's first rugby player customer. Not gonna sugar coat this, there is a lot more work to be done with your custom pattern than just pulling the waist in. The shoulders would also need more slope for the upper arms to work. I'll take a compare photo of my Aero trucker and 5Star trucker when I get home. The way Aero does the shoulders will fit your athletic frame better, but the bodice still needs more taper. Online MTM is not the same as in person MTM. There might be another "alteration" needed after this coming one.

Ok. The Meralomas up in Vancouver. Awesome! That's a big athletic club.
...bench presses. The exercise I do the least.
Well, I thought that after 5* got the measurements would at least make something following the ratio. I think a seasoned garment maker should be able to make a garment using just one major body measurement, for example shoulder width, and the ratio of that measurement to all the others. JL made a great jacket for me, so would have LW had he listened to me. Even two Schott OTR with just sleeve lengthening fit not badly. Not great, but better than a square. But I digress.

 

[Damon141]

@Rugby @Damon141

I'm not trying to be rude, just my observation.
You guys have the body builder type of body, there is no way you can get the slim fit guy look. It's like asking Arnold or Rock to look like Deadpool. Not possible.

I am slowly learning. Notice Arnold in his younger role as terminator in a Schott. He was jacked in that movie but it doesn’t show through the moderately think leather of the Schott perfecto.
Clearly you can see the Rocks arms through that jacket but I’d put everything that it’s super thin lamb skin leather. Not going to happen with thick leathers I’m learning. I will be happy if I can get one to just drape properly.

I used to be 25lbs heavier of straight muscle so I’m glad I’ve lost some due to life changes or I would never find a jacket.

My next one is going to be 24” back length (taking MrPropers advice) also widen the waist and hem and arms slightly. That way it’s not bunched up on my lower back and skin tight on the arms.

 

[Aloysius]

I am slowly learning. Notice Arnold in his younger role as terminator in a Schott. He was jacked in that movie but it doesn’t show through the moderately think leather of the Schott perfecto.

FWIW, Arnie wore a Bates Highwayman (sort of a Perfecto/CHP hybrid, not unlike the Schott 525 that I posted a crazy deal of earlier today) in the first film, then a Bates version of a Buco J-24 (which they now sell as the Bates Terminator) in the second.

 

[Damon141]

Bates looks good, I’ve not seen to much about them. For the not terminator style. The price is good for made to measure

 

[Aloysius]

Bates looks good, I’ve not seen to much about them. For the not terminator style. The price is good for made to measure

Yeah, the 'Terminator' branded one is a much less interesting jacket, even apart from the markup. A million companies, from Five Star to Aero to Field make a J-24. Very few make a jacket like the other one.

 

[MrProper]

My next one is going to be 24” back length (taking MrPropers advice) also widen the waist and hem and arms slightly. That way it’s not bunched up on my lower back and skin tight on the arms.

Please do not have the expectation that the back then becomes smooth as a baby's bottom. Even with good length and width, it can still lie somewhere on. For example, a beer belly or a lot of chest muscle can lift the jacket more in the front and then tighten it in the back. Then it could lie on again and you get wrinkles.
I wear my pants mostly low waist and the optimal back length of the jacket for me is that the belt loops are just covered. But that depends on how big/small the front drop is. Optimally I have 67 cm back length and +2 cm front drop. But if there is no front drop (e.g. Lewis leather) then the jacket must be longer in total, otherwise it will be too short in the front. My formula is: back length + front drop = 69 cm. Then the front will just cover the belt buckle.
But the longer in the back, the higher the risk of bulging with a tight waistband.

Wrinkles:

 

[Damon141]

@MrProper
I did another drawing and dropped 2.5 cm off the back after reviewing my pictures with the belt line. I also added 4cm to the abdomen and 4cm to the hem. I’m thinking it won’t sit on my lower back so much with those changes.

Below is the Himel which was just way too long in the 26” back and 27” sleeves for my height at about 173 cm. It managed to have a flat back despite the length due to the design I’m guessing and it had a 23” hem

Is that your Lewis Leather? I loved that one.

 

[MrProper]

@MrProper
I did another drawing and dropped 2.5 cm off the back after reviewing my pictures with the belt line. I also added 4cm to the abdomen and 4cm to the hem. I’m thinking it won’t sit on my lower back so much with those changes.

Below is the Himel which was just way too long in the 26” back and 27” sleeves for my height at about 173 cm. It managed to have a flat back despite the length due to the design I’m guessing and it had a 23” hem

Is that your Lewis Leather? I loved that one.

The brown one? Yes, that is the Lewis Leather Corsair.
In your picture, everything hangs down smoothly because the jacket is wide enough. It's like a coat then. If the waistband was tight, it would sit on the hip and push everything up.
I think 2 inches less would look good on this jacket.

 

[Damon141]

That makes me want a Corsair or Dominator. From the price range with custom measurements, they are a good value. Not too many custom makers out there if you think about it.

 

[MrProper]

That makes me want a Corsair or Dominator. From the price range with custom measurements, they are a good value. Not too many custom makers out there if you think about it.

To whet your appetite

 

[Damon141]

The green is the color I most wanted but I showed my wife and she freaked out. She is 27 years old and if doesn’t say Lois Vuitton, Chloe, Burberry etc, it can’t be any good. I tried to explain the difference between a bespoke jacket and a mass produced handbag with a designer label and it goes straight over her head.

In this year wait for a Field Leather jacket I wanted another custom, probably mandarin collar because that’s what she likes but I’m not spending what Himel charges, Goodwear (4 year wait) JL Dont like his current designs with mandarin collars, that leaves LL super sportsman or LW J100. I can’t think of anyone else.

 

[MrProper]

LL super sportsman

+1
And these then either in veg tanned cow or navy blue sheep
With the right stature but also an Aero Cafe Racer can come into question.

 

[Damon141]

You know I’ve went back and forth through this forum a million times thinking about Aero, but more often than not it seems like people are 50/50 on them and many seem to sell them to upgrade to others. Since I will in 12 long months have a Field Route 66 (could be called the ultimate Aero)

I was leaning towards LL because people seem to hang on to them, they are iconic.
The LW Buco intrigues me with the heavy hide but I’ve read nothing but horrified people talking about their interactions with Stu and I don’t know if he would do even the simplest of modifications like bring in the waist.

 

[MrProper]

You know I’ve went back and forth through this forum a million times thinking about Aero, but more often than not it seems like people are 50/50 on them and many seem to sell them to upgrade to others. Since I will in 12 long months have a Field Route 66 (could be called the ultimate Aero)

I was leaning towards LL because people seem to hang on to them, they are iconic.
The LW Buco intrigues me with the heavy hide but I’ve read nothing but horrified people talking about their interactions with Stu and I don’t know if he would do even the simplest of modifications like bring in the waist.

With a Route 66, you don't need aero anymore, that's true.
If you want a jacket in a relatively short time, then definitely LL.
Rip specifies 12 week, but often this is undercut. Communication with him is great.
Important to know is that only certain parameters can be changed. Basis is always a standard size. This can then be lengthened or shortened. The waistband can be tapered, but always only V-shaped from P2P downwards and not Y-shaped.
This is a pity, because so I still have a lot of material around the belly, despite tight waistband. But the LL are super comfortable for it, at least in sheep leather (others I do not know unfortunately).

 

[Damon141]

I see what you meat about the extra material but it doesn’t look bad to me, it somehow looks natural to me. The classic style.
You immediately had me searching for the navy sheep which looks amazing.
Everything I have is navy blue, my car, wallets, key covers, another jacket.

I wish more makers had affordable J100, I can’t buy off the rack because the waist and sleeve will be 3+ Inches longer by the time I fit my P2P.

I saw Dave Sheeley jackets the other day and was blown away by the details. I wish he offered a cafe racer style.

 

[MrProper]

I can’t buy off the rack because the waist and sleeve will be 3+ Inches longer by the time I fit my P2P.

Same thing with me, only the other way around.
When I adjust P2P, everything is too short. Lol
That's why I like 5* so much, because I can customize everything there. And I'm only waiting three weeks for my jacket.
My new jacket would be a 10/10 if they had stuck to the collar measurements I wanted. From the fit insane.

 

[Damon141]

The price can’t be beat and like you have shown it really can fit well. Call me crazy but the stitching on these are better than some high end makers. I said a page or so back that someone like John with Goodwear leather should recruit one of 5stars guys, he could literally sponsor a person on a work visa that wanted to relocate because leather jacket making us a dying art. A million people want to make wallets and cardholders on Etsy but nobody wants to take it to a level like jackets.

My 5 star jacket cuff is currently giving birth to a insulated metal cup.
I wet it down with lexol and kept the cup in one sleeve and it is stretching it out. Idk if it will stay or shrink back.