Five Star Leather Jackets

[Rugby]

Most Western clothing patterns are based off the 5'10" model and Asian ones are based off the 5'8" model. But you work out a lot so that is the challenging part for fit. Every off rack Large will need tailoring at the waist.

Shawn copied the 2mm horsehide because of Y2. The first prototype was a car coat just like Y2. The second trucker is mine. Shawn doesn't have Y2's different trucker styles though. Levis Type 1 and 2. Shawn only has the type 3.

I didn't want to name the names but yes, both Goodwear and Greg Field offer best bang for buck for Shinki. But they are both LONG wait. Simmonsbilt also offers "Japanese horsehide" but they don't say if it's Shinki or not. I think it is. They also have Type 3 trucker pattern, and they do custom, and they are hated here for many reasons. I just think their sizing can be tricky, I had hit and miss with them so buyer beware.

If you like thick leather truckers I got some cooking at Johnson. Will post pics when I get them. They are not Shinki, but they got 5oz US made goatskins and deer/elk/bison for reasonable prices. Not as good resale on eBay as it seems but they cost a lot less than Himel or the brands from Japan. There is a Johnson leather thread here worth checking out. Although the new YahTaHey beast just smashed everything into the ground.

Johnson offer exotics like elk and bison?

 

[Rugby]

Your trucker was the one I was admiring. I thought so. For the price it amazing. Honestly the stitching is better than I’ve seen on other brands. Before I sold it I spoke with Johnson leathers and they had very reasonable prices for alterations and I almost went that route but for a new jacket no way would I pay $1,000 plus for one. To my untrained eye their patterns just look off and the stitching looks like utter crap on many. Just look at this picture below. Imagine receiving that for $1,000

When I am ready for a trucker I’m going your route with 5star. Remind me, did you send him the 2mm horsehide or did he acquire it?

Stitching View attachment 413187

That does look a bit amateurish. My experience with them though is all positive. The stitching was great, and the whole construction was fantastic. Aero, Vanson or Schott may be your best bet for $700-$1050

 

[red devil]

Johnson offer exotics like elk and bison?

Yes, they do. Here is Bison

@Damon141 , what do you mean by pattern exactly?

 

[Damon141]

That does look a bit amateurish. My experience with them though is all positive. The stitching was great, and the whole construction was fantastic. Aero, Vanson or Schott may be your best bet for $700-$1050

I have two separate jacket deposits for Fields Leathers so it’s become more like a hobby than I actually need. have had Schott and they are not perfect but the quality was great but obviously the fit was boxy. At the Aero price I’d just stick with Fields. But a Vanson might seems like the best bang for the buck coming from here in the USA. One day I’ll probably have one in my closet

 

[Rugby]

Yes, they do. Here is Bison

View attachment 413197

@Damon141 , what do you mean by pattern exactly?

Damn!

 

[Canuck Panda]

Your trucker was the one I was admiring. I thought so. For the price it amazing. Honestly the stitching is better than I’ve seen on other brands. Before I sold it I spoke with Johnson leathers and they had very reasonable prices for alterations and I almost went that route but for a new jacket no way would I pay $1,000 plus for one. To my untrained eye their patterns just look off and the stitching looks like utter crap on many. Just look at this picture below. Imagine receiving that for $1,000

When I am ready for a trucker I’m going your route with 5star. Remind me, did you send him the 2mm horsehide or did he acquire it?

Stitching View attachment 413187

About the 2mm horsehide - That's Shawn's own source. There is an extra for shipping because of the weight.

About Johnson - That's a bad photo. But their top stitching game isn't as strong as say Field Leathers or Thedi. Still very solid jackets though. Most American brands isn't keen on top stitching. They will double stitch the blind stitch for riding but not a lot of care is put into top stitching. The posh brands is the opposite, better top stitching but not built like tank (comparatively speaking) underneath. Lost Worlds will be the cleanest top stitch (while still built like a tank) in America, but it's Himel priced, with limited house leather options.

 

[Damon141]

Yes, they do. Here is Bison

View attachment 413197

@Damon141 , what do you mean by pattern exactly?

I probably have my terms wrong but I guess just the designs don’t appeal to me, I’m not an expert as I learned everything from you more experienced members and I don’t want to offend anyone but the jackets just look off when compared to a release from a brand like Freewheelers. This is purely from a visual standpoint from looking at pictures and the attention to detail. And just style.
Like that above picture looks like an eyesore where as something like below just screams cool to me.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Johnson offer exotics like elk and bison?

Yeah they do, just like RedDevil Jacket. And thick too. I will post more about that when I get my Johnson delivery.
It's tricky with JL, but with a slight change in approach the result can be very rewarding.

Not to derail the 5Star thread, but yeah, Shawn needs to get thicker deer than his current thinner one.

But that's really the difference between US made and Imports though. The US tannery are not in the business for split suede leather, so the hides are generally thicker, top grain 2.5oz plus bottom suede 2.5oz all in one 5oz package. While the imports win on labor cost they will want to make more jackets by splitting the hide into two 2.5oz top grain and 2.5oz bottom suede.

So Shawn is stepping out of the box BIG time by going 2mm full thickness horsehide.

 

[Rugby]

Yeah they do, just like RedDevil Jacket. And thick too. I will post more about that when I get my Johnson delivery.
It's tricky with JL, but with a slight change in approach the result can be very rewarding.

Not to derail the 5Star thread, but yeah, Shawn needs to get thicker deer than his current thinner one.

But that's really the difference between US made and Imports though. The US tannery are not in the business for split suede leather, so the hides are generally thicker, top grain 2.5oz plus bottom suede 2.5oz all in one 5oz package. While the imports win on labor cost they will want to make more jackets by splitting the hide into two 2.5oz top grain and 2.5oz bottom suede.

So Shawn is stepping out of the box BIG time by going 2mm full thickness horsehide.

I was under the impression that US makers (eg. JL, LW) use full grain leather and others (eg. Vanson, Schott) use top grain

 

[Canuck Panda]

I was under the impression that US makers (eg. JL, LW) use full grain leather and others (eg. Vanson, Schott) use top grain

That's just marketing jumbo mumbos. But every US brands will use top quality material, unless they use imported material, which non of the US leather makers are AFAIK. It's labor cost thats too much here in North America. So the American makers will try to cut corners on top stitching aka labor hours. This was very evident in my vintage Lees, especially from union made to not. I'll post about that sometimes.

 

[red devil]

About the 2mm horsehide - That's Shawn's own source. There is an extra for shipping because of the weight.

About Johnson - That's a bad photo. But their top stitching game isn't as strong as say Field Leathers or Thedi. Still very solid jackets though. Most American brands isn't keen on top stitching. They will double stitch the blind stitch for riding but not a lot of care is put into top stitching. The posh brands is the opposite, better top stitching but not built like tank (comparatively speaking) underneath. Lost Worlds will be the cleanest top stitch (while still built like a tank) in America, but it's Himel priced, with limited house leather options.

LW is not yet Himel price thankfully, but they did increase their prices regularly since I have known them. The appeal of LW, is the quality of construction, toughness, pattern and unique leathers.

If you would compare makers to cars, and tanks, LW would probably be a heavy duty tank made with aerospace grade construction.

I probably have my terms wrong but I guess just the designs don’t appeal to me, I’m not an expert as I learned everything from you more experienced members and I don’t want to offend anyone but the jackets just look off when compared to a release from a brand like Freewheelers. This is purely from a visual standpoint from looking at pictures and the attention to detail. And just style.
Like that above picture looks like an eyesore where as something like below just screams cool to me.

No worries, hence why I was asking you to clarify.

We generally mean by pattern, how well the jacket is designed to fit a human being., how much mobility it gives you etc.
Vanson and Langlitz are know here to be in the top range for patterns.

Freewheelers and RMC are difficult to get a good fit in, you need to be a certain body type to get best results.

When it comes to Johnson leather, I have gone the custom route with all jackets apart from this one

It has armour for the motorbike

 

[Marc mndt]

I don’t want to offend anyone but the jackets just look off when compared to a release from a brand like Freewheelers. This is purely from a visual standpoint from looking at pictures and the attention to detail. And just style.
Like that above picture looks like an eyesore where as something like below just screams cool to me.

Check out this Johnson Leathers :

What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

Yesterday.

www.thefedoralounge.com

 

[ton312]

Your trucker was the one I was admiring. I thought so. For the price it amazing. Honestly the stitching is better than I’ve seen on other brands. Before I sold it I spoke with Johnson leathers and they had very reasonable prices for alterations and I almost went that route but for a new jacket no way would I pay $1,000 plus for one. To my untrained eye their patterns just look off and the stitching looks like utter crap on many. Just look at this picture below. Imagine receiving that for $1,000

When I am ready for a trucker I’m going your route with 5star. Remind me, did you send him the 2mm horsehide or did he acquire it?

Stitching View attachment 413187

Ooof. That collar looks ROUGH.

 

[Damon141]

@Marc mndt That’s a nice one. I actually really like that. I should not have implemented they are all bad. I was particularly interested in a cafe racer style hence my Kensington and now my deposit on a Route 66. His cafe racer isn’t fit me and I’m sure he has better stitching than the earlier picture I showed but if I were him I would have remade that.

 

[Damon141]

When it comes to Johnson leather, I have gone the custom route with all jackets apart from this one

View attachment 413208

It has armour for the motorbike

That is a nice look and very well fitting. Ofcourse the choice of armor brings it to a balance between looks and fit and functionality. I actually really like the details in the belt portion with the zipper angle on that one.

 

[Rugby]

LW is not yet Himel price thankfully, but they did increase their prices regularly since I have known them. The appeal of LW, is the quality of construction, toughness, pattern and unique leathers.

If you would compare makers to cars, and tanks, LW would probably be a heavy duty tank made with aerospace grade construction.



No worries, hence why I was asking you to clarify.

We generally mean by pattern, how well the jacket is designed to fit a human being., how much mobility it gives you etc.
Vanson and Langlitz are know here to be in the top range for patterns.

Freewheelers and RMC are difficult to get a good fit in, you need to be a certain body type to get best results.

When it comes to Johnson leather, I have gone the custom route with all jackets apart from this one

View attachment 413208

It has armour for the motorbike

LW has priced himself off the market. I too love his work and materials though.

 

[Damon141]

How much was LW previously?

What the word needs is more bespoke jacket makers, when you think about it, the independent makers are astonishing low.

I guess we should feel blessed for 5star and their fair prices and willingness to take custom measurements and even the designs that experienced members have created

 

[Rugby]

How much was LW previously?

What the word needs is more bespoke jacket makers, when you think about it, the independent makers are astonishing low.

I guess we should feel blessed for 5star and their fair prices and willingness to take custom measurements and even the designs that experienced members have created

LW was about 30% less just as recently as March 2021

 

[Damon141]

Ouch that’s a steep increase. Justified possible with the economic conditions but as a business owner myself it is less of a blow to the customer if you offer something in exchange for a price increase of that magnitude. For instance maybe a cotton fit mock up jacket like Fields or less expensive leather choice.

 

[Rugby]

Ouch that’s a steep increase. Justified possible with the economic conditions but as a business owner myself it is less of a blow to the customer if you offer something in exchange for a price increase of that magnitude. For instance maybe a cotton fit mock up jacket like Fields or less expensive leather choice.

No, nothing like that. I asked him if it would be ok for me and my son to go over at his shop so that he could take our measurements himself, although we live in Maryland, but he was not very cooperative.
But I gotta admit that my son's test jacket is a real beast. He tells me that it fights him when he wears it. And it is really well made 5+ oz HH.
He lost our business.