Five Star Leather Jackets

[Rugby]

Fit question for you guys: I think my HB fits pretty well. However, when I raise my arms in front of me, like you would when riding a bike or holding a steering wheel, there is some tightness across my shoulders in the back-- right under the back yoke. Is this normal-- does it just need to break-in/ stretch a little bit, or should I consider changing my measurements if I order another jacket?

Also, those of you that have Five Star jacket with shoulder gussets like these: View attachment 412974

do you feel like they would help with this? Are they truly functional, or more just decorative?

Also considering a center gusset like this:

View attachment 412977
Would that be effective?

For more comfortable movement you might want to ask for bi-swing back. It is more functional than gussets. Some people like the way gussets look, I prefer full action bi-swing back.

 

[KBlake]

Is it possible to stretch the forearms on a 5* HH jacket? My new 30s HB fits like a glove but from the elbow down it fits like a tournequet.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@canuck-panda.
I did ask for the premium or grade A but I didn’t press the issue like other members that asked to see the thickness. (I wish I had)I hope it is the thicker.
As for the Kensington, that is the one single measurement I never took, I believe the sleeves were much wider looking back at the pictures, hence why I took a risk on a close fit on the FiveStar.

As long as you asked for premium goatskin it should do. There is a noticeable difference between the thinner and thicker goatskins. The thicker isn't heavy but just feels better.
About your sleeves, I think it will work. The bicep portion will work as long as the arm can slip through. It's the elbow/forearm portion that limits the bending movement. But goatskin has a stretch. Horse hides are less forgiving.
I find that the hardest part (of this jacket hobby or any online orders) is the wait. The pics always come a week before the package actually arrives.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Is it possible to stretch the forearms on a 5* HH jacket? My new 30s HB fits like a glove but from the elbow down it fits like a tournequet.

You can always try to wet stretch it. But horsehide in my experience is the least stretchy hide. Some would say this is better for abrasion resistance, but the bike jackets all have HUGE arms. Huge.
My early 5Stars has these problems too. I spec the forearm too slim. It's fine if I don't move, but most of the movement happens from the elbow and down a few inches.
Then I changed to slim at the cuff and not from elbow/forearm. But then wearing a watch doesn't work.
Now I just say screw it and stick with stock sleeves.
One thing we have to keep in mind is that leather jackets, especially from Shawn (because of the compact flat packaging), will not be 3 dimensional when new, so the fit will seem off. But once the leather get some moisture or wear, it totally changes. I will try to document this on my next new one from Shawn and post here.

 

[MrProper]

Mine are about 41 cm right now and I ordered 44 cm circumference so they will be a little tight. I’m a little worried now, I might have to diet a little and get in some cardio.
This will help me figure out the size for the next one.

I love that trucker. That is for sure my next choice.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it won't be too tight.

My arms are rather thin and when I bend/tighten them, I just get to 40 cm or so. Even if the sleeves of my jacket then feel tight, I actually still have minimal space.
So if 5* really keeps to your 22 cm, then it should just about do it for you. You must not tense the arm, otherwise you can see the veins through the leather LOL

If in doubt, do not tighten the arm

Which lining did you order? I have heavy cotton lining, which certainly makes the sleeve tighter than, for example, satin.

 

[MrProper]

Also, those of you that have Five Star jacket with shoulder gussets like these:

do you feel like they would help with this? Are they truly functional, or more just decorative?

After all, my CR is more on the tight side, and that's where I think the gussets definitely help.
I think the 5* gussets work well and are more than decoration.
However, I have other jackets without gussets that work just as well.
But yes, if it's too tight for you over the back, try the gussets.
Bi-Swing is certainly the best, but I don't like it.

 

[ton312]

^ these are both my jackets and the gussets definitely do add some degree of mobility. That said if the jacket is too tight in the shoulders, the gussets won’t make them less so.

 

[SaintsNorth]

As long as you asked for premium goatskin it should do. There is a noticeable difference between the thinner and thicker goatskins. The thicker isn't heavy but just feels better.
About your sleeves, I think it will work. The bicep portion will work as long as the arm can slip through. It's the elbow/forearm portion that limits the bending movement. But goatskin has a stretch. Horse hides are less forgiving.
I find that the hardest part (of this jacket hobby or any online orders) is the wait. The pics always come a week before the package actually arrives.

Hoo boy. I have a Cossack in premium goat that is a great weight. Not super thick but substantial. So I ordered a cafe racer in premium goat last month and it is most definitely not the same at all. It's about as thin as a mall jacket. I was hoping I wouldn't have to get into requesting a particular thickness but it looks like that's what you have to do to get some consistency. Really disappointing.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Hoo boy. I have a Cossack in premium goat that is a great weight. Not super thick but substantial. So I ordered a cafe racer in premium goat last month and it is most definitely not the same at all. It's about as thin as a mall jacket. I was hoping I wouldn't have to get into requesting a particular thickness but it looks like that's what you have to do to get some consistency. Really disappointing.

If you paid for premium you should get premium. Mistakes happens. I'd get with Shawn to reach a resolution. The quality difference (feeling) is night and day between the premium goat and the mall goat.

 

[Rugby]

Gents just lay off the goat, premium or otherwise. Go with HH, steerhide. And honestly after I saw and touched jackets made out of buffalo and deer hides, I was really impressed. But 5* does not offer these "exotic" choices.

 

[Canuck Panda]

5oz deer / elk / bison are very nice. Shawn's 2mm horsehide can compete in the big boys league.

The lower cost (premiums) goat can serve as a purpose for pattern fits. It cost about the same as using the fit jacket service, but you get to keep the goat as a pet, even the fit doesn't work out.

Shawn once told me he can get anything if there is demand. I love soft 5oz deers/elk/bisons (I get these from US makers), but I don't think there is enough demands for Shawn to do them.

His Irvin fur is another good example of very high quality material, but he would only stock them if it makes business sense for him.

 

[Rugby]

The lower cost (premiums) goat can serve as a purpose for pattern fits. It cost about the same as using the fit jacket service, but you get to keep the goat as a pet, even the fit doesn't work out.

That's a good idea! Get a cheapo fit jacket first. Unfortunately I didn't think of that so my fit 5* jacket is my first 5* HH jacket. But the only maker I've dealt with who provides a sort of bespoke jacket with their "basted fitting" jacket they send, is Johnson Leathers

 

[Canuck Panda]

Fingers crossed your first 5 Star fits just how you wanted. Then you got not just a fit jacket but an actual one!

The Johnson way works too. I think they send you the liner as a mock up, at least from what I've seen from the Johnson threads. I went your 5star way with Johnson and luckily it worked out. So the same could apply to your 5Star trucker...

 

[Rugby]

Fingers crossed your first 5 Star fits just how you wanted. Then you got not just a fit jacket but an actual one!

The Johnson way works too. I think they send you the liner as a mock up, at least from what I've seen from the Johnson threads. I went your 5star way with Johnson and luckily it worked out. So the same could apply to your 5Star trucker...

Yeah I hope so, but either way I will know for next time.
But You've got me thinking about that SB elk jacket now...

 

[Damon141]

I wish he had some stiff horsehide. With the Japanese denim/trucker style models coming in at $1,300 to $2,000.
There is a site for hat pops up on Google that sells Shinki, has anyone ever thought of sending Shinki?
Probably the retail price of the Shinki and shipping would defeat the point.

If only Shawn could find someone locally that could duplicate the process. I guess those leather secrets are not shared with many

 

[Canuck Panda]

I wish he had some stiff horsehide. With the Japanese denim/trucker style models coming in at $1,300 to $2,000.
There is a site for hat pops up on Google that sells Shinki, has anyone ever thought of sending Shinki?
Probably the retail price of the Shinki and shipping would defeat the point.

If only Shawn could find someone locally that could duplicate the process. I guess those leather secrets are not shared with many

Don't do it! I've done it, sort of. Here was the math:

Shinki leather from japan will cost just under $600 shipped. $10 to 12 dollars per square foot, about 40 to 45 square foot depending on actual leather pieces sizes, plus fedex shipping. If you buy from US resellers like RML its a lot more money. If any places is selling for less it's likely a scam. Don't buy from Europelle!

Then you would need to ship that leather to Shawn. If you get lucky there isn't import custom fees on the Pakistan side. If you are not, things can get out of hand very fast.

Not counting the shipping cost to Shawn, which even with the low USPS rates you are still looking at 100 plus dollars.

And the resale value. Most Japanese brands will have higher resale value than 5Star. This may change down the road, but not right now.

So the best deal for an actual Shinki jacket, imo, is from a Western jacket maker in the 1200 to 1500 dollars range. At the end of the day you get a Shinki jacket that has relatively high resale value if things don't work out. Plus most American makers in that price range will just take the jacket back. Easy Peasy.

It will take a bit time, but eventually Shawn will develop the full horsehide offerings to match what the major brands are doing. He's done best work when he has an actual sample to copy.

 

[Damon141]

I looked at that sane company, thank you for the information. I don’t know how much I will like them down the road but lately I’ve been coveting a trucker like that Y’2 but me being so short under 5’10” with short arms and wide upper tires I’d be forced to buy a larger size and send it for alterations. But that 2mm trucker that a member ordered really looks great and I bet Shawn could change the design to to accommodate me.

You’re very right about the resale value, if you buy a freewheelers or RMC they seem to hold their value well. I wish Himel Bros didn’t charge so much for his bespoke. Manufacturers are entirely entitled to their own price but from what I gather he learned much from John at Goodwear leather and is much newer and his stitching is no where near the level of the Japanese brands but he charges $1,000 more, resale from my experience and sold listings are not good either.

I also have two deposits down for 2 fields leather jackets which seems to be the best option for Shinki. That’s a year away though . I will keep them to the end or atleast till I get too fat to wear them

 

[Griemersma]

Thanks for the info, everybody. I don't like the full bi-swing look, so might go with the shoulder gussets if I do another order. The shoulder fit is good already. Judging from the back measurement of my vintage jacket, I just need about half an inch to an inch more right across the back yoke area, so that might fix it.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I looked at that sane company, thank you for the information. I don’t know how much I will like them down the road but lately I’ve been coveting a trucker like that Y’2 but me being so short under 5’10” with short arms and wide upper tires I’d be forced to buy a larger size and send it for alterations. But that 2mm trucker that a member ordered really looks great and I bet Shawn could change the design to to accommodate me.

You’re very right about the resale value, if you buy a freewheelers or RMC they seem to hold their value well. I wish Himel Bros didn’t charge so much for his bespoke. Manufacturers are entirely entitled to their own price but from what I gather he learned much from John at Goodwear leather and is much newer and his stitching is no where near the level of the Japanese brands but he charges $1,000 more, resale from my experience and sold listings are not good either.

I also have two deposits down for 2 fields leather jackets which seems to be the best option for Shinki. That’s a year away though . I will keep them to the end or atleast till I get too fat to wear them

Most Western clothing patterns are based off the 5'10" model and Asian ones are based off the 5'8" model. But you work out a lot so that is the challenging part for fit. Every off rack Large will need tailoring at the waist.

Shawn copied the 2mm horsehide because of Y2. The first prototype was a car coat just like Y2. The second trucker is mine. Shawn doesn't have Y2's different trucker styles though. Levis Type 1 and 2. Shawn only has the type 3.

I didn't want to name the names but yes, both Goodwear and Greg Field offer best bang for buck for Shinki. But they are both LONG wait. Simmonsbilt also offers "Japanese horsehide" but they don't say if it's Shinki or not. I think it is. They also have Type 3 trucker pattern, and they do custom, and they are hated here for many reasons. I just think their sizing can be tricky, I had hit and miss with them so buyer beware.

If you like thick leather truckers I got some cooking at Johnson. Will post pics when I get them. They are not Shinki, but they got 5oz US made goatskins and deer/elk/bison for reasonable prices. Not as good resale on eBay as it seems but they cost a lot less than Himel or the brands from Japan. There is a Johnson leather thread here worth checking out. Although the new YahTaHey beast just smashed everything into the ground.

 

[Damon141]

Your trucker was the one I was admiring. I thought so. For the price it amazing. Honestly the stitching is better than I’ve seen on other brands. Before I sold it I spoke with Johnson leathers and they had very reasonable prices for alterations and I almost went that route but for a new jacket no way would I pay $1,000 plus for one. To my untrained eye their patterns just look off and the stitching looks like utter crap on many. Just look at this picture below. Imagine receiving that for $1,000

When I am ready for a trucker I’m going your route with 5star. Remind me, did you send him the 2mm horsehide or did he acquire it?

Stitching