Five Star Leather Jackets

[ton312]

What do you think is a good lining for 5* new CXL leather?
I thought if I should give quilted lining a try.
Or should I stick with heavy cotton drill?

I’m going heavy drill in the body, satin/poly in the sleeve.

 

[MrProper]

I’m going heavy drill in the body, satin/poly in the sleeve.

Many thanks.
have you already ordered? lol
which CXL? dark or natural?
I will probably take the natural

 

[ton312]

Many thanks.
have you already ordered? lol
which CXL? dark or natural?
I will probably take the natural

Not yet. I’m going with the dark brown and Shawn told me to wait as they are revising the color and I want to be dead on sure of what it is. I do have the spec sheet ready though. Not too far off from the jacket you asked about earlier. Very simple.

 

[FL2021]

What do you think is a good lining for 5* new CXL leather?
I thought if I should give quilted lining a try.
Or should I stick with heavy cotton drill?

 

[FL2021]

Not yet. I’m going with the dark brown and Shawn told me to wait as they are revising the color and I want to be dead on sure of what it is. I do have the spec sheet ready though. Not too far off from the jacket you asked about earlier. Very simple.

Not yet. I’m going with the dark brown and Shawn told me to wait as they are revising the color and I want to be dead on sure of what it is. I do have the spec sheet ready though. Not too far off from the jacket you asked about earlier. Very simple.

What I cannot figure out, this thickness of leather, how does it translate into the feel, the drop, the fitting? Is it something that you would like wearing? Can someone fill me in on this?

 

[Grasp loo paper]

I’ll let you know when I receive mine.

what do you mean they are revising the color? Is it only about the dark brown or also natural? What will be the difference?

 

[ton312]

What I cannot figure out, this thickness of leather, how does it translate into the feel, the drop, the fitting? Is it something that you would like wearing? Can someone fill me in on this?

Seems to be thicker than CXL. If you’ve ever had or handled a CXL jacket, it would make sense. TbH I’d be pleased if the hide were simply a nice, dark brown, pull up hide in 3-3.5. I don’t need the weight.

 

[ton312]

Fieblings alcohol based leather dye, cordovan.
Full sun and freshly waxed:

Indirect light:

The dye was consistent during it application but had wildly varied color tones depending on where it was applied. Not sure if that is user error or just the nature of the skin and what was left of the previous coat. It certainly kept me busy and entertained. I feel overall it was a success but having learned a few things throughout the process I’m sure I could do better the next time around. I hope there never is one though.

 

[ton312]

I’ll let you know when I receive mine.

what do you mean they are revising the color? Is it only about the dark brown or also natural? What will be the difference?

The dark brown. I think they are still fine tuning the recipe for that one. I suggested it be as dark as possible.

 

[Riu]

Fieblings alcohol based leather dye, cordovan.
Full sun and freshly waxed:
View attachment 334482
Indirect light:
View attachment 334483
The dye was consistent during it application but had wildly varied color tones depending on where it was applied. Not sure if that is user error or just the nature of the skin and what was left of the previous coat. It certainly kept me busy and entertained. I feel overall it was a success but having learned a few things throughout the process I’m sure I could do better the next time around. I hope there never is one though.

Looks nice in the sun, I get what you mean by those varied tones, not very noticeable in the shade. It's got some nice warm autumnal tones.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Hi Folks, This Thread is so awesome it brought me out from lurking from under a rock...
I also ordered a jacket from Shawn using his "pull up" leather. Basically a Highwayman front, plain half belt back, and cafe racer fit. The past few post got me a little anxious because I was expecting the "Natrual CXL" brown but now am assuming I might be getting "Brown CXL". I was hoping there are still some lighter brown hides left from the A1 ish Cossack jacket Shawn just made, but I will see what I get.
I would also like to share my Goatskins experience from Shawn. I got the three colors, Russet, Conic and Seal. They are all about 2.5 oz, varying between 2 to 3 oz panel to panel. Shawn's goatskin is very stretchy and grainy. Medium Soft temper, like an Aero CXL jacket without the wax. They all seem to be combination tanned, chromed to get it soft and vegged to transform the blue into the light brown color crust. The Seal is the best color out of the three IMO. It's a very dark charcoal, almost black. I think Shawn's Seal Goat starts its life as Conic, then Russet, then Seal. Same way Costco sells their beef by the whole loin first, then cut it up in steaks and ends up ground beef over period of time. What I'm trying to say is that the Seal will wear VERY FAST, with reddish russet showing through. And I am still waiting for the Conic to peek through from that russet but so far nothing. Get the Seal Goat, you won't be dissapointed.
I've also bought some Horween Seconds Horsehides from Maverick Leather to send to Shawn. I will do a write up about that once they get there and gets turned into actual jackets. It would really about the math of doing things this way.
Anyways, very anxious about my upcoming Shawn's CXL jacket, in a positive way. Brown or Natural? Regardless of what brown I get in the mail I will post a comparison color photo when I get it.
Also attaching this interesting video about pull up leather. Not sure what the rules is about posting videos here. This is not my video so I am not promoting anything. I do wish I actually work there though... haha...

Just had an idea... why no one makes pull up goatskin? like goatskin with wax and oil ironed into it... Horween has actually done this "pull up" wax thing to their deer hides, making thinner 2/3 oz deer hides medium temper instead of soft... anyways, another time I suppose... Pull up cowhide first...

 

[Canuck Panda]

Fieblings alcohol based leather dye, cordovan.
Full sun and freshly waxed:
View attachment 334482
Indirect light:
View attachment 334483
The dye was consistent during it application but had wildly varied color tones depending on where it was applied. Not sure if that is user error or just the nature of the skin and what was left of the previous coat. It certainly kept me busy and entertained. I feel overall it was a success but having learned a few things throughout the process I’m sure I could do better the next time around. I hope there never is one though.

That finish looks awesome! Perhaps this could be Shawn's color 8...

 

[PilotJens]

I tried to transform my conic goat piece into pull up leather .I think the grain structure is too tight .It doesn't really push through like on steer/cow

Hi Folks, This Thread is so awesome it brought me out from lurking from under a rock...
I also ordered a jacket from Shawn using his "pull up" leather. Basically a Highwayman front, plain half belt back, and cafe racer fit. The past few post got me a little anxious because I was expecting the "Natrual CXL" brown but now am assuming I might be getting "Brown CXL". I was hoping there are still some lighter brown hides left from the A1 ish Cossack jacket Shawn just made, but I will see what I get.
I would also like to share my Goatskins experience from Shawn. I got the three colors, Russet, Conic and Seal. They are all about 2.5 oz, varying between 2 to 3 oz panel to panel. Shawn's goatskin is very stretchy and grainy. Medium Soft temper, like an Aero CXL jacket without the wax. They all seem to be combination tanned, chromed to get it soft and vegged to transform the blue into the light brown color crust. The Seal is the best color out of the three IMO. It's a very dark charcoal, almost black. I think Shawn's Seal Goat starts its life as Conic, then Russet, then Seal. Same way Costco sells their beef by the whole loin first, then cut it up in steaks and ends up ground beef over period of time. What I'm trying to say is that the Seal will wear VERY FAST, with reddish russet showing through. And I am still waiting for the Conic to peek through from that russet but so far nothing. Get the Seal Goat, you won't be dissapointed.
I've also bought some Horween Seconds Horsehides from Maverick Leather to send to Shawn. I will do a write up about that once they get there and gets turned into actual jackets. It would really about the math of doing things this way.
Anyways, very anxious about my upcoming Shawn's CXL jacket, in a positive way. Brown or Natural? Regardless of what brown I get in the mail I will post a comparison color photo when I get it.
Also attaching this interesting video about pull up leather. Not sure what the rules is about posting videos here. This is not my video so I am not promoting anything. I do wish I actually work there though... haha...

Just had an idea... why no one makes pull up goatskin? like goatskin with wax and oil ironed into it... Horween has actually done this "pull up" wax thing to their deer hides, making thinner 2/3 oz deer hides medium temper instead of soft... anyways, another time I suppose... Pull up cowhide first...

View attachment 334614 View attachment 334615

 

[Canuck Panda]

What do you think is a good lining for 5* new CXL leather?
I thought if I should give quilted lining a try.
Or should I stick with heavy cotton drill?

Shawn's quilted lining is relatively thin. it's like one heavy weight poly fabric sandwiched between two mid light weight poly fabric. And it's very stretchy. Very different quilted lining than what Field Leather offers, his is puffier and has more loft.

Shawn's quilted lining is thin but still somewhat warm though...

I use quilted lining on all my jackets from Shawn. I am bias in this way though as I prefer softer materials when it comes to direct contact with skin, so I avoid rashes on my arms. I've found that waxed horsehide gives awesome arms creases at a cost when trying to break things in with a t shirt on.

You could ask Shawn for a detachable quilted liner if you want more versatility outta your jacket. This is something I haven't tried but would like to, and am probably gonna do to my longer Aeros, like an aftermarket add on thing.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I tried to transform my conic goat piece into pull up leather .I think the grain structure is too tight .It doesn't really push through like on steer/cow

Man the more I read on this thread the more excited I get... I better go take a cold shower now... or lunch...

 

[PilotJens]

I want to have a detachable liner on my next jacket .I just have to find out how to secure it without the zipper .I want to do it with buttons or something that won't irritate or annoy me like a unused zipper .I wonder if he has bad shearling hides with too many outside flaws to use as double sided leather .A detachable shearling liner with quilted sleeves would be cool .I wonder if he could make something nicer looking than the quilting .It reminds me of cheap functional rain gear.
I am hopeful for a nice dark brown cxl for my project .
I also want a D1 redskin but the weather is clearing up .Hmm maybe I just pull the trigger before prices jump up lol.

 

[MrProper]

Shawn's quilted lining is relatively thin. it's like one heavy weight poly fabric sandwiched between two mid light weight poly fabric. And it's very stretchy. Very different quilted lining than what Field Leather offers, his is puffier and has more loft.

Shawn's quilted lining is thin but still somewhat warm though...

I use quilted lining on all my jackets from Shawn. I am bias in this way though as I prefer softer materials when it comes to direct contact with skin, so I avoid rashes on my arms. I've found that waxed horsehide gives awesome arms creases at a cost when trying to break things in with a t shirt on.

You could ask Shawn for a detachable quilted liner if you want more versatility outta your jacket. This is something I haven't tried but would like to, and am probably gonna do to my longer Aeros, like an aftermarket add on thing.

Many thanks for your thoughts.
I decided to stick on the heavy cotton drill because I have good experience with it in all my jackets.
I just sent the details to Shawn. Will be a simple jacket made of natural CXL. I'm excited.

 

[Riu]

What do you think is a good lining for 5* new CXL leather?
I thought if I should give quilted lining a try.
Or should I stick with heavy cotton drill?

Having tried both I can say the quilted lining is more comfortable than the heavy cotton. And it's also keeping me quite warm. Probably it's just a matter of preference, I personally find the quilted lining more pleasant to wear.

 

[Catullus]

I haven't heard much about the 5* suede. When I'm ready to try my next one, I was eyeing something something like the Aero Majestic. How much have people enjoyed the suede from 5* so far?

 

[MrProper]

I mean, someone on the forum has tried suede, but I don't remember who.
In terms of the data, it is too thin for me. therefore uninteresting for me.
On my daughter's 5* jacket there is suede in black, but I've never seen it in real life (the jacket lol)