Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:

[Flanderian]

Hmmm. Maybe I will make this one my official FL profile image.

A great illustration of some great clothing, well worn, and nicely illustrated. The bush jacket is a handsome and useful classic that goes in and out of fashion, but 85 years later is still sought out by many. I think it's an iconic illustration.

One last essential Esquire link on the subject, and then I will cease and desist regarding the topic of you-know-who.

https://classic.esquire.com/authors/ernest-hemingway

Did I ever mention that I am enjoying this thread? Well done.

Don't desist, they're great links!

Gratified the posts are enjoyable.

+1 to Tiki Tom's, and others commenting how they enjoy this thread. It is glorious!

I have tuned in a couple of times and truly love the month by month of the many illustrations. The illustrations are dramatic and eye catching. But the frosty topping on this treat are the written word beneath the illustrations. The words provide the pictures more color and personality. Ah, a real pleasure to read this thread!

I have re-read many of the posts and have compared given months from year to year. My curiosity was piqued to see changes over the short term (1 year). It was also interesting to see how the text reflected that the magazine viewers had provided comments asking for outfits they would more readily wear. I saw a small change reflecting the requests. Very interesting.

All in all this is one of the best threads in a long time! I truly appreciate the time and effort of the OP. The comments have been fun to read. Thanks to one and all from my neighborhood in Minnesota, USA. I tip my hat brim in your direction this morning.

Cheers, Eric -

I'm delighted they're pleasurable! It's remarkable that while fashion has obviously changed many times since they were drawn, many of the essential forms still persist 85 years later. I think these illustrations and accompanying text are of unique and lasting value to any interested in sartorial topics. And these are the years when Esquire was at the top of its game. As the years progressed, their original focus as a "civilian" version of Apparel Arts drifted farther and farther from its original intent and artistic values.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's illustrations from August 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

This is perhaps tangential, but some might be curious. I attempted to offer a brief synopsis in the introduction to this thread of the differences between the publications, Apparel Arts, and Esquire. It included what I suspect is an inadequate description of the nature of Apparel Arts as Esquire's older sister publication and inspiration.

There's an active collectors market in old copies of Apparel Arts, particularly those from the '30's, and even copies not in very good condition can sell for surprising sums. And most survivors aren't in great condition because despite the lavish nature of its printing and binding, it was never originally intended to last into the future.

Surviving copies are periodically sold via the Internet and sellers sometimes include a photo of the cover and a few pages to illustrate the content and condition to prospective purchasers. One such example I've happened upon is a remarkably well preserved copy of an issue that was resold to a collector in 2019. It's the Fall 1936 issue which is listed as Vol. VII No. 1. I'm offering this here because it provides a glimpse into the nature of Apparel Arts, especially the lavish and eye-catching cardboard covers, which unfortunately are disintegrated on most survivors, and into some of the differences in content between it and Esquire.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's illustrations for September 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

This is the balance of September 1936.

Edit: This is something I find remarkable, and thought might interest others who enjoy this subject: the third illustration from the top of the post directly above is a photo of a variety of sartorial accessories attractively displayed. It's Esquire's page 130. Two ties are pictured. The one to the left is an orangey, straw colored homespun tweed, the tip of which is left cut and unfinished. I have this tie! But what is notable is that it didn't originate from 1936. It was purchased new roughly 25 years ago from Polo.

I had long read that the talented group of designers assembled by Ralph Lauren spent lots of time pouring over old sartorial publications, as well as other sources such as bunches, from which to derive their inspiration. I think my tie serves as material evidence of the accuracy of these reports as it differs solely from the original in that its shape is that of 1995, rather than 1936's. Otherwise, it appears to be identical.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's illustrations for October 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's November 1836 illustrations.

 

[Fading Fast]

...
Edit: This is something I find remarkable, and thought might interest others who enjoy this subject: the third illustration from the top of the post directly above is a photo of a variety of sartorial accessories attractively displayed. It's Esquire's page 130. Two ties are pictured. The one to the left is an orangey, straw colored homespun tweed, the tip of which is left cut and unfinished. I have this tie! But what is notable is that it didn't originate from 1936. It was purchased new roughly 25 years ago from Polo.

I had long read that the talented group of designers assembled by Ralph Lauren spent lots of time pouring over old sartorial publications, as well as other sources such as bunches, from which to derive their inspiration. I think my tie serves as material evidence of the accuracy of these reports as it differs solely from the original in that its shape is that of 1995, rather than 1936's. Otherwise, it appears to be identical.

A good friend of mine worked for Ralph Lauren for years and she absolutely confirms what you've read and experienced: yes, Ralph's designers constantly study old design books, ads, general pictures, etc. for inspiration.

Over the years, so many things I've seen Ralph put out, I've also seen or, later, will see in movies from the '30s and '40s.

I even noted recently that you can see the inspiration for some of Ralph's style of advertising in old pictures and movies: #27802

 

[Flanderian]

A good friend of mine worked for Ralph Lauren for years and she absolutely confirms what you've read and experienced: yes, Ralph's designers constantly study old design books, ads, general pictures, etc. for inspiration.

Over the years, so many things I've seen Ralph put out, I've also seen or, later, will see in movies from the '30s and '40s.

I even noted recently that you can see the inspiration for some of Ralph's style of advertising in old pictures and movies: #27802

Thanks for the first-hand confirmation!

While elements of the huge business that Polo became may be rightly derided, I am personally pleased to see this period serve as an inspiration for new goods. It's my favorite era of style, and much of what many consider classics originated therein. And at least much of what they've produced has been of reasonable quality.

Great movie stills!

During the era 30 or 35 years ago when I couldn't pass a shop window without purchasing a tie, I found a couple Polo ties whose aesthetic originated in that era, though I would tend to believe neither is an actual copy. Not for business, both are very large scale prints, one being an Art Deco red and orange design on a purple ground in wool challis, and the other a life-like cream and brown equestrian motif on rust silk. With the right tweed or corduroy, they look rather nice.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations for Esquire December 1936.

 

[Fading Fast]

Thanks for the first-hand confirmation!

While elements of the huge business that Polo became may be rightly derided, I am personally pleased to see this period serve as an inspiration for new goods. It's my favorite era of style, and much of what many consider classics originated therein. And at least much of what they've produced has been of reasonable quality.

Great movie stills!

During the era 30 or 35 years ago when I couldn't pass a shop window without purchasing a tie, I found a couple Polo ties whose aesthetic originated in that era, though I would tend to believe neither is an actual copy. Not for business, both are very large scale prints, one being an Art Deco red and orange design on a purple ground in wool challis, and the other a life-like cream and brown equestrian motif on rust silk. With the right tweed or corduroy, they look rather nice.

Like you, I don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good: I'm glad Ralph Lauren is out there being Ralph Lauren. For many years, as you note, he was the closest thing to "Esquire/Apparel Arts" clothing you could just walk into a store and buy. Also, like you, I have several Art Deco ties of his that look like they walked off the pages of those magazines.

I also had a Purple Label cashmere herringbone dark-grey three-piece suit bought on an insane sale that also looked liked it came straight out of the magazines. Unfortunately, as can only happen in real life, during a move and renovation, we had it stored (in a cotton suit bag with cedar chips) in our apartment basement storage unit when the basement had a bad fire and a good chunk of my wardrobe, literally, went up in flames.

No one was hurt in the fire and the building survived, so que sera sera.

 

[Flanderian]

And this is the balance of December 1936 illustrations.

 

[Flanderian]

Like you, I don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good: I'm glad Ralph Lauren is out there being Ralph Lauren. For many years, as you note, he was the closest thing to "Esquire/Apparel Arts" clothing you could just walk into a store and buy. Also, like you, I have several Art Deco ties of his that look like they walked off the pages of those magazines.

I also had a Purple Label cashmere herringbone dark-grey three-piece suit bought on an insane sale that also looked liked it came straight out of the magazines. Unfortunately, as can only happen in real life, during a move and renovation, we had it stored (in a cotton suit bag with cedar chips) in our apartment basement storage unit when the basement had a bad fire and a good chunk of my wardrobe, literally, went up in flames.

No one was hurt in the fire and the building survived, so que sera sera.

Sounds like a beautiful suit, what a shame! Very depressing! Distressing for anyone, but for those of us with an especial fondness for our treasures, a disaster. I know full well that many of the items I now possess will likely not be worn (By me anyway! ) again. But I should feel as if I had lost a close friend loosing them.

Reminds me of an old Jack Benny gag; a stick-up man sticks a gun Jack's face and demands, "Your money or your life!" And Jack responds thoughtfully, "Let me think."

 

[Fading Fast]

Sounds like a beautiful suit, what a shame! Very depressing! Distressing for anyone, but for those of us with an especial fondness for our treasures, a disaster. I know full well that many of the items I now possess will likely not be worn (By me anyway! ) again. But I should feel as if I had lost a close friend loosing them.

Reminds me of an old Jack Benny gag; a stick-up man sticks a gun Jack's face and demands, "Your money or your life!" And Jack responds thoughtfully, "Let me think."

It wasn't fun, but the fire was pretty extensive and could have easily caused injury or loss of life, which, thankfully, it didn't. It also could have destroyed an irreplaceable 1928 apartment building, which it, also, thankfully didn't. I think we were so relieved by all of that, that we knew complaining about destroyed clothing was a bit much. So, and I'm being honest here, we, pretty much, took it in stride.

Yes, even today, almost five years later, I sometimes think about an item I miss, but that fire could have been so much worse (and was really close to being so much worse) that I know and genuinely feel lucky.

It was part of the process of aging and maturing about my clothes. I love some of them to this day, but am much less passionate overall about them. I think I enjoy talking about them with you and others on this site and AAAC more than I care about the clothes themselves.

 

[Flanderian]

It wasn't fun, but the fire was pretty extensive and could have easily caused injury or loss of life, which, thankfully, it didn't. It also could have destroyed an irreplaceable 1928 apartment building, which it, also, thankfully didn't. I think we were so relieved by all of that, that we knew complaining about destroyed clothing was a bit much. So, and I'm being honest here, we, pretty much, took it in stride.

Yes, even today, almost five years later, I sometimes think about an item I miss, but that fire could have been so much worse (and was really close to being so much worse) that I know and genuinely feel lucky.

It was part of the process of aging and maturing about my clothes. I love some of them to this day, but am much less passionate overall about them. I think I enjoy talking about them with you and others on this site and AAAC more than I care about the clothes themselves.

Well, it is a blessing that any injury was avoided, not necessarily least to a heritage structure.

Though were it in the 'burb's it would have been knocked down ages ago and replaced with a strip mall.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations for Esquire January 1937.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations for Esquire, February 1937.

A particularly nice Fellows' illustration in the ad below, I think.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the Esquire illustrations for March 1937.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's illustrations for April 1937.

 

[Flanderian]

This is the balance of illustrations for April 1937.