Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:

[Flanderian]

Then as now: it helps if you are quite slim!

BTW, I just visited the website of the current incarnation of Esquire Magazine. Oddly enough, I don’t think I have ever visited it before. Doesn’t seem too bad. After a ten minute look, my main comment would probably be that it is hard to tell the difference between genuine style advice on the one hand, and them just trying to sell stuff on the other. (Same as it ever was, eh?) The one article I read was littered with “buy it now” buttons, which made me wary. Other than that, the magazine seemed o.k., but not wow. I guess I’ll add it to the list of periodicals that I scan regularly, and see if it passes the test of time.

Who owns it now? Does it have any link to its golden era, other than its venerable name? And that it is generally a men’s magazine?

Esquire is currently owned by The Hearst Corp. That is its 5th owner. Pretty much the only things that remain of the original are its name, and that it's still printed on paper.

Each succeeding owner attempted to remake it in its own image, and employed whatever publishing practices were deemed fashionable at the time. In an era when few wish to read more than can be fitted into a Tweet, it's not an easy business.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations from Esquire February 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

This is the balance of February 1936's illustrations.

 

[Flanderian]

These are Esquire's illustrations for March 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

The balance of March 1936.

 

[Tiki Tom]

Beautiful pics!

I just have to contribute another tale about Esquires top writer. In 1935 Hemingway was in the Bahamas in pursuit of blue marlin. His 40 foot boat is, and looks like, a fishing boat. After a day at sea, Hem is hanging out on his boat in ratty shorts, a local hat woven from palm fronds, and he is barefoot. In sails an elegant 53 foot white cruising yacht named Storm King. The boats owner, Mr Joe Knapp, is dressed in crisp tropical whites and knows Hemingway by reputation and proceeds to pick a fight, calling Hemingway a fraud and a “big fat slob”. (Truth be told, Hemingway was not completely blameless; he and his friends and some locals were making a lot of noise in celebration of the days catch.) Finally Ernest has Taken enough verbal abuse and knocks Mr Knapp out with a few quick punches. Next morning Storm King sets sail to take Knapp to hospital in Miami. Joe Knapp does not press charges and admits that he started it... there were dozens of witnesses. In the Bahamas the story of the fight becomes legend and quickly is immortalized in a calypso song that is, as far as I know, still popular in Bimini today. Now for the rest of the story... it turns out that Knapp’s father owned Colliers, another well known magazine of the 30s and —in that regard— a competitor of Esquire. There is no way that Knapp did not know that Hemingway was writing for “the competition”. Ironically, just 2 years later, Colliers Magazine would hire Hemingway to go to Spain and write about the Spanish Civil War. The complete story about Knapp vs EH is here:
http://spoonercentral.com/knapp/Bimini.html

The story is one small piece of the relationship between Esquire and Hemingway and the magazine’s balancing act regarding class. Oh, and here is Storm King:
http://spoonercentral.com/2005/StormKing.html

 

[Flanderian]

Beautiful pics!

I just have to contribute another tale about Esquires top writer. In 1935 Hemingway was in the Bahamas in pursuit of blue marlin. His 40 foot boat is, and looks like, a fishing boat. After a day at sea, Hem is hanging out on his boat in ratty shorts, a local hat woven from palm fronds, and he is barefoot. In sails an elegant 53 foot white cruising yacht named Storm King. The boats owner, Mr Joe Knapp, is dressed in crisp tropical whites and knows Hemingway by reputation and proceeds to pick a fight, calling Hemingway a fraud and a “big fat slob”. (Truth be told, Hemingway was not completely blameless; he and his friends and some locals were making a lot of noise in celebration of the days catch.) Finally Ernest has Taken enough verbal abuse and knocks Mr Knapp out with a few quick punches. Next morning Storm King sets sail to take Knapp to hospital in Miami. Joe Knapp does not press charges and admits that he started it... there were dozens of witnesses. In the Bahamas the story of the fight becomes legend and quickly is immortalized in a calypso song that is, as far as I know, still popular in Bimini today. Now for the rest of the story... it turns out that Knapp’s father owned Colliers, another well known magazine of the 30s and —in that regard— a competitor of Esquire. There is no way that Knapp did not know that Hemingway was writing for “the competition”. Ironically, just 2 years later, Colliers Magazine would hire Hemingway to go to Spain and write about the Spanish Civil War. The complete story about Knapp vs EH is here:
http://spoonercentral.com/knapp/Bimini.html

The story is one small piece of the relationship between Esquire and Hemingway and the magazine’s balancing act regarding class. Oh, and here is Storm King:
http://spoonercentral.com/2005/StormKing.html

Great, colorful story! Thanks for retelling it.

And thanks for the links.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations from Esquire, April 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations for May 1936.

 

[Flanderian]

The balance of May 1936.

 

[Steepleman]

Does anyone know what the “pencil test” is in relation to the advert for Nettleton's shoes?

 

[Faux Brummell]

Perhaps it’s this.

Does anyone know what the “pencil test” is in relation to the advert for Nettleton's shoes?

 

[Flanderian]

Does anyone know what the “pencil test” is in relation to the advert for Nettleton's shoes?

View attachment 259204 Perhaps it’s this.

I can only surmise based upon the sketch included in the ad.

My prior familiarity with the term derived from an entirely different context. But a little research suggests it's a not an uncommon term used to illustrate the proper relationship of foot and ankle when going on pointe in ballet. which is done by placing the pencil atop the plane of these in that posture.

The hockey shoe use is illustrated below, but I don't think it would pertain for dress oxfords.

Looking at how the term is illustrated in the ad, I suspect it's intended to show the comparative flatness of the Nettleton sole on the finished shoe, a desirable quality then and now. Though it's more commonly evaluated longitudinally (For an absence of toe-spring.) rather than horizontally across the sole.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the illustrations for Esquire, June 1936.

The ad illustration below is one of my favorites because it shows the great variety of pocket styles and back treatments available, and which were then common in that era. And how each variety could be used with others to create specific aesthetic effects.

 

[Tiki Tom]

Ahem, yes, indeed. The pencil test. Apparently my friends in college were doing it all wrong.

“Clothes that are typically American” got a little chuckle out of me.

 

[Flanderian]

Ahem, yes, indeed. The pencil test. Apparently my friends in college were doing it all wrong.

“Clothes that are typically American” got a little chuckle out of me.

 

[Flanderian]

These are the Esquire illustrations for July 1936.

 

[Tiki Tom]

Hmmm. Maybe I will make this one my official FL profile image.

 

[Tiki Tom]

One last essential Esquire link on the subject, and then I will cease and desist regarding the topic of you-know-who.

https://classic.esquire.com/authors/ernest-hemingway

Did I ever mention that I am enjoying this thread? Well done.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

+1 to Tiki Tom's, and others commenting how they enjoy this thread. It is glorious!

I have tuned in a couple of times and truly love the month by month of the many illustrations. The illustrations are dramatic and eye catching. But the frosty topping on this treat are the written word beneath the illustrations. The words provide the pictures more color and personality. Ah, a real pleasure to read this thread!

I have re-read many of the posts and have compared given months from year to year. My curiosity was piqued to see changes over the short term (1 year). It was also interesting to see how the text reflected that the magazine viewers had provided comments asking for outfits they would more readily wear. I saw a small change reflecting the requests. Very interesting.

All in all this is one of the best threads in a long time! I truly appreciate the time and effort of the OP. The comments have been fun to read. Thanks to one and all from my neighborhood in Minnesota, USA. I tip my hat brim in your direction this morning.

Cheers, Eric -