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Esquire’s Complete Golden Age Illustrations:

Flanderian

Practically Family
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833
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Flanders, NJ, USA
These are the May 1937 illustrations for Esquire.


Esq053705.jpg



Esq053701.jpg



Esq053702.jpg



Esq053703.jpg



Esq053706.jpg



Esq053707.jpg



Esq053708.jpg



Esq053704.jpg



Esq053709.jpg



Esq053710.jpg
 
Messages
17,272
Location
New York City
In the dictionary, next to "fluid body," should be a picture of the woman in this illustration. Also, it's a very F. Scott Fitzgerald scene:
Esq033701.jpg



Yes, yes, excellent raincoats, but the curved mullion windows of the store are beautiful architecture (and reflect outstanding illustrating skills):
Esq043705.jpg
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
In the dictionary, next to "fluid body," should be a picture of the woman in this illustration. Also, it's a very F. Scott Fitzgerald scene:
View attachment 260860

Yes, yes, excellent raincoats, but the curved mullion windows of the store are beautiful architecture (and reflect outstanding illustrating skills):
View attachment 260861

The top is one of my favorite Fellows' illustrations.

Leslie Saalburg did the 2nd, and has often been described as the most "painterly" of Esquire's illustrators. Born in England to American parents, his orientation was always the Old World, and he passed away in Paris in '73.

In his later years -


Saalburg.jpg
 

Flanderian

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Flanders, NJ, USA
Fellows isn't even being that subtle anymore. This has a real "Brideshead Revisited" echo. BTW, I like the tan suit with the white bucks.
View attachment 261067

Great illustration of great clothes! I particularly fancy the forest green socks, and such illustrations are making resisting my snazzy sock purchasing compulsion daily more difficult to resist. I find it sadly humorous that several years ago the men's fashion industry entirely confused the smart, vibrant and classic colors and patterns of the socks depicted here and elsewhere during this period, and began instead making ones that were both dumb and ugly, believing that simply being garish was the essential desirable attribute.

I once read a report that J. C. Leyendecker took an interest in the welfare of his junior colleague Fellows, and encouraged him in dealing with their common difficulties of life.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,272
Location
New York City
Great illustration of great clothes! I particularly fancy the forest green socks, and such illustrations are making resisting my snazzy sock purchasing compulsion daily more difficult to resist. I find it sadly humorous that several years ago the men's fashion industry entirely confused the smart, vibrant and classic colors and patterns of the socks depicted here and elsewhere during this period, and began instead making ones that were both dumb and ugly, believing that simply being garish was the essential desirable attribute.

I once read a report that J. C. Leyendecker took an interest in the welfare of his junior colleague Fellows, and encouraged him in dealing with the common difficulties of life.

Spot on about the socks. Today's men's fashion industry completely misunderstood the '30s socks and instead "sold" men on the story that garish socks were a way to show they were a nonconformist rebel at heart. One, it's just a stupid idea and, two, the result were a bunch of otherwise reasonable well-dressed and mainly younger businessmen wearing ugly looking cartoon socks.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
Spot on about the socks. Today's men's fashion industry completely misunderstood the '30s socks and instead "sold" men on the story that garish socks were a way to show they were a nonconformist rebel at heart. One, it's just a stupid idea and, two, the result were a bunch of otherwise reasonable well-dressed and mainly younger businessmen wearing ugly looking cartoon socks.

Many previous bastions of style and taste such as Paul Stuart even succumbed. My idea of an interesting casual sock is more in tune with such.


Pedemia01.jpg
 
Messages
17,272
Location
New York City
Many previous bastions of style and taste such as Paul Stuart even succumbed. My idea of an interesting casual sock is more in tune with such.


View attachment 261192

Funny you mention Paul Stuart as that is where (on sale) I bought most of my nice, more-interesting and Apparel-Arts-like socks. But they weren't garish or loud; they didn't make a statement or say "I'm a rebel;" they just enhanced an outfit, like the one in your pick, through texture, or pattern or color, but always, harmonized with the rest of the outfit.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
Funny you mention Paul Stuart as that is where (on sale) I bought most of my nice, more-interesting and Apparel-Arts-like socks. But they weren't garish or loud; they didn't make a statement or say "I'm a rebel;" they just enhanced an outfit, like the one in your pick, through texture, or pattern or color, but always, harmonized with the rest of the outfit.

Stuart was my sartorial lodestone and style mentor for much of 30 years, but still, I can only recall purchasing 4 suits from them. But far, far too many socks, ties, PS, and suspenders, most of which I still have to this day. A pique pattern English sock like that above, but in loden and bright camel wool purchased in the '70's finally bit the dust not long ago.
 
Messages
17,272
Location
New York City
The diamond pattern is a beautiful pattern that seems to have been forgotten today:
Esq093704.jpg


Back in the summer of 2018, I went to a Brooks Brothers 100-year anniversary exhibit at Grand Central Station that included this 1940s suit from its collection:
Suit 2 Sack Suit-2.JPG


And a close-up of the pattern:
IMG_5288-2.JPG



I have nothing but respect for Fellows' work, but he might have lost a bit of control of his scale on the man and women to the far left, note the shoulders on each (great polo coat though):
Esq093705.jpg
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
The diamond pattern is a beautiful pattern that seems to have been forgotten today:
View attachment 261502

Back in the summer of 2018, I went to a Brooks Brothers 100-year anniversary exhibit at Grand Central Station that included this 1940s suit from its collection:
View attachment 261501

And a close-up of the pattern:
View attachment 261503


I have nothing but respect for Fellows' work, but he might have lost a bit of control of his scale on the man and women to the far left, note the shoulders on each (great polo coat though):
View attachment 261504

The tweed at top is lovely, and the suit made from it a handsome classic.

Perhaps Fellows was using models from the NBA and WNBA? ;)
 

Tiki Tom

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,409
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Oahu, North Polynesia
I very much like the generous cut of the trousers in the 30s, and that they are high-waisted. Generally, menswear seemed a little looser and more comfortable back then. I disagree that that relaxed cut was prone to look sloppy in real life. But then again, my biggest complaint about the last few year’s styles is in regard to skinny cut trousers on men. Regarding the socks, I agree completely: a subtle and interesting texture goes a long way.
 

Flanderian

Practically Family
Messages
833
Location
Flanders, NJ, USA
I very much like the generous cut of the trousers in the 30s, and that they are high-waisted. Generally, menswear seemed a little looser and more comfortable back then. I disagree that that relaxed cut was prone to look sloppy in real life. But then again, my biggest complaint about the last few year’s styles is in regard to skinny cut trousers on men. Regarding the socks, I agree completely: a subtle and interesting texture goes a long way.

I think so too. While anything can be carried to comical excess, generous, but properly fitted trousers that sit at the actual waist are what I find most comfortable and handsome. The original fashion gained notoriety under the term, Oxford Bags for which comical excess was often the object.


OxfordBags.jpg



I prefer a traditional full cut pair of trousers, but one having a noticeable taper from kneed to cuff.
 

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