Cross zip nation

[handymike]

@tmitchell59 has the only original R-P collar I’ve seen.
Congratulations on your new acquisition!

 

[J Leather Investigater]

I went in with an open mind, hoping to find and purchase a cross-zip . . . and I failed miserably.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well. I also tried on an Addict cross-zip at Butterscotch. The leather was too rigid and the fit was awkward.

Last week, I tried on the Flat Head Delraiser and FCL Leon at SE. Predictably, the shoulders on the Delraiser were way too broad and the sleeves were too short. The Leon was too long, the shoulders were too broad, and it was generally too bulky (I couldn't zip up the smaller size).

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.

Given my general hesitancy concerning cross-zips, and my lack of familiarity with cross-zip sizing, I am unwilling to roll the dice with a new cross-zip jacket unless I try it on and confirm the fit in advance. Unfortunately, that limits my options.

At least I tried, albeit without success.

Flat Head Delraiser

View attachment 324836

FCL Leon

View attachment 324838

Perhaps otr jackets is the issue here?

 

[J Leather Investigater]

I went in with an open mind, hoping to find and purchase a cross-zip . . . and I failed miserably.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well. I also tried on an Addict cross-zip at Butterscotch. The leather was too rigid and the fit was awkward.

Last week, I tried on the Flat Head Delraiser and FCL Leon at SE. Predictably, the shoulders on the Delraiser were way too broad and the sleeves were too short. The Leon was too long, the shoulders were too broad, and it was generally too bulky (I couldn't zip up the smaller size).

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.

Given my general hesitancy concerning cross-zips, and my lack of familiarity with cross-zip sizing, I am unwilling to roll the dice with a new cross-zip jacket unless I try it on and confirm the fit in advance. Unfortunately, that limits my options.

At least I tried, albeit without success.

Flat Head Delraiser

View attachment 324836

FCL Leon

View attachment 324838

Perhaps otr jackets is the issue here?

 

[ton312]

I went in with an open mind, hoping to find and purchase a cross-zip . . . and I failed miserably.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well. I also tried on an Addict cross-zip at Butterscotch. The leather was too rigid and the fit was awkward.

Last week, I tried on the Flat Head Delraiser and FCL Leon at SE. Predictably, the shoulders on the Delraiser were way too broad and the sleeves were too short. The Leon was too long, the shoulders were too broad, and it was generally too bulky (I couldn't zip up the smaller size).

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.

Given my general hesitancy concerning cross-zips, and my lack of familiarity with cross-zip sizing, I am unwilling to roll the dice with a new cross-zip jacket unless I try it on and confirm the fit in advance. Unfortunately, that limits my options.

At least I tried, albeit without success.

Flat Head Delraiser

View attachment 324836

FCL Leon

View attachment 324838

You need something with a more pronounced Halfbelt/hourglass shape. Those jackets look to go straight down to the hem from the pits with no taper anywhere. If you spend the next two years eating cheeseburgers at in and out you might be OK in those. Personally I’d put you in a badlassi hooch or moonshiner and watch this forum implode. But I understand you have rules.

 

[Superfluous]

Personally I’d put you in a badlassi hooch or moonshiner and watch this forum implode.

Funny you should say that. There is a Badalassi Hooch for sale right now in the Classifieds that I had contemplated -- even reached out to the seller. However, the seller just revised his measurements and, what was perhaps too large is now likely too large.

 

[ton312]

Funny you should say that. There is a Badalassi Hooch for sale right now in the Classifieds that I had contemplated -- even reached out to the seller. However, the seller just revised his measurements and, what was perhaps too large is now likely too large.

Stay the course. I do think an HB back is the right path for your all but inevitable crosszip journey, regardless of the maker.

 

[regius]

Funny you should say that. There is a Badalassi Hooch for sale right now in the Classifieds that I had contemplated -- even reached out to the seller. However, the seller just revised his measurements and, what was perhaps too large is now likely too large.

I need to seek my wife's permission to post a cross zip I made for her, it's obviously a man's pattern adjusted to her torso shape/length, and had some slight mismatch of lapel panels (next time this error will be corrected), and the leather is not very good (the thin version of the Schott HH), but i think as far as hourglass is concerned, it's a hit.

 

[regius]

Greatest cross zip photo (and jacket) of all time. GCZOAT...well

 

[Monitor]

I went in with an open mind, hoping to find and purchase a cross-zip . . . and I failed miserably.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well. I also tried on an Addict cross-zip at Butterscotch. The leather was too rigid and the fit was awkward.

Last week, I tried on the Flat Head Delraiser and FCL Leon at SE. Predictably, the shoulders on the Delraiser were way too broad and the sleeves were too short. The Leon was too long, the shoulders were too broad, and it was generally too bulky (I couldn't zip up the smaller size).

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.

Given my general hesitancy concerning cross-zips, and my lack of familiarity with cross-zip sizing, I am unwilling to roll the dice with a new cross-zip jacket unless I try it on and confirm the fit in advance. Unfortunately, that limits my options.

At least I tried, albeit without success.

Flat Head Delraiser

View attachment 324836

FCL Leon

View attachment 324838

First jacket fits you very well and sure, even though the sleeves might be considered a bit low, I wouldn't agree that this is the case as it's a moto inspired jacket thus cuffs should stop right at your wrist, regardless of ever-present preference for the sleeves that cover half of your hand (something that I like, too, but that doesn't make it right). Second jacket is way too long and awkward looking.

Why not try on Real McCoy JH-1? It is one of @Carlos840's best fitting jackets and a really good way to start (and possibly even end) your cross-zip journey with.

 

[Superfluous]

First jacket fits you very well and sure, even though the sleeves might be considered a bit low, I wouldn't agree that this is the case as it's a moto inspired jacket thus cuffs should stop right at your wrist, regardless of ever-present preference for the sleeves that cover half of your hand (something that I like, too, but that doesn't make it right).

I don't need the sleeves to cover half of my hand. That said, I don't do sleeves that expose my wrists. I think that looks terrible.

Why not try on Real McCoy JH-1? It is one of @Carlos840's best fitting jackets and a really good way to start (and possibly even end) your cross-zip journey with.

I like the JH-1 . . . with the significant exception of the belt. Moreover, I am not willing to spend $2,500+ without trying it on first, and risk an immediate $1,000+ loss. I can take that risk with straight zips because I am very good at evaluating measurements and the corresponding fit. Cross-zips are a different animal and I have no confidence in my ability to translate measurements to fit.

 

[Monitor]

I don't need the sleeves to cover half of my hand. That said, I don't do sleeves that expose my wrists. I think that looks terrible.



I like the JH-1 . . . with the significant exception of the belt. Moreover, I am not willing to spend $2,500+ without trying it on first, and risk an immediate $1,000+ loss. I can take that risk with straight zips because I am very good at evaluating measurements and the corresponding fit. Cross-zips are a different animal and I have no confidence in my ability to translate measurements to fit.

I hear you regarding risk getting the wrong size, though most stores do allow returns/refunds, right? But undoubtedly, that belt is... There. I too would prefer a regular square buckle or having it deleted altogether. This style of belt was utilized by a couple of makers in the past, most notably GuideMaster by Wolf but I guess Buco, as well.

But, right! I just recalled what happens to be the only jacket in recent years that I really actually liked, though photos is all I had to go on but from the looks of it, it could be it. I'd buy this in a nanosecond if I could. 44 would, I believe, work for you length-wise.

https://www.snakeoilprovisions.com/.../products/deviant-horsehide-motorcycle-jacket

 

[red devil]

I went in with an open mind, hoping to find and purchase a cross-zip . . . and I failed miserably.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well. I also tried on an Addict cross-zip at Butterscotch. The leather was too rigid and the fit was awkward.

Last week, I tried on the Flat Head Delraiser and FCL Leon at SE. Predictably, the shoulders on the Delraiser were way too broad and the sleeves were too short. The Leon was too long, the shoulders were too broad, and it was generally too bulky (I couldn't zip up the smaller size).

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.

Given my general hesitancy concerning cross-zips, and my lack of familiarity with cross-zip sizing, I am unwilling to roll the dice with a new cross-zip jacket unless I try it on and confirm the fit in advance. Unfortunately, that limits my options.

At least I tried, albeit without success.

Flat Head Delraiser

View attachment 324836

FCL Leon

View attachment 324838

Glad to see you are looking at the next step!

Flat head are known for having difficult shoulder to chest ratio, so it was bound not to work for you. On the other hand, you were succesfull with RMC, I suspect you would be able to fit in one of their crosszips.

I was thinking about it today and as far as I can see it, try to find an RMC locally to try it on... or the only other option I could think of, would be to actually go with Thedi. You have been eyeing them for a while, and if I were to recommend a model, the first one to come to mind is the zipped version of the mtc-127915

This is @HoosierDaddy grey one:

You are currently at the edge of the crosszips swimming pool, you dipped your toe and found it to be cold. That's ok, it is pretty normal. My advice is to just jump in, sure it will feel cold at first but as you get used to the temperature, you will not want to get out of that pool anymore

You can get it in black shinki if you want or ask what other leathers he has available if you feel like changing... I have been thinking of one in blue deerskin for a while now

I think you already made the most difficult decision which is to get a crosszip, now the fun part begins, which is to choose the one you will end up with

Edit: cleaned up the text

 

[tmitchell59]

The jacket still appears on the site, but I have a tracking number, it should be "en route" to France.
You will find some other pics there, until the seller removes them : https://mensvintageclothes.com/product/x371950-60svintage-black-leather-motorcycle-jacket380/

This is the black Steerhide label that used after the short lived Green label. This label is used all through the 40s into the early 50s. I have a jacket a similar jacket in this style. The zipper can date it 40s or 50s.

 

[handymike]

Glad to see you are looking at the next step!

Flat head are known for having difficult shoulder to chest ratio, so it was bound not to work for you. On the other hand, you were succesfull with RMC, I suspect you would be able to fit in one of their crosszips.

I was thinking about it today and as far as I can see it, try to find an RMC locally to try it on... or the only other option I could think of, would be to actually go with Thedi. You have been eyeing them for a while, and if I were to recommend a model, the first one to come to mind is the zipped version of the mtc-127915

This is @HoosierDaddy grey one:

You are currently at the edge of the crosszips swimming pool, you dipped your toe and found it to be cold. That's ok, it is pretty normal. My advice is to just jump in, sure it will feel cold at first but as you get used to the temperature, you will not want to get out of that pool anymore

You can get it in black shinki if you want or ask what other leathers he has available if you feel like changing... I have been thinking of one in blue deerskin for a while now

I think you already made the most difficult decision which is to get a crosszip, now the fun part begins, which is to choose the one you will end up with

Edit: cleaned up the text

I agree here. This Thedi jacket is a really nice way to go. You could even try one from Carrie to get a sense of the style on you.
Even I liked this cut.


Pherrows made a less-biker looking one in both brown and black:


Another option might be Phigvel:

 

[Superfluous]

But, right! I just recalled what happens to be the only jacket in recent years that I really actually liked, though photos is all I had to go on but from the looks of it, it could be it. I'd buy this in a nanosecond if I could. 44 would, I believe, work for you length-wise. https://www.snakeoilprovisions.com/.../products/deviant-horsehide-motorcycle-jacket

That was the first cross-zip I tried on.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well.

Flat head are known for having difficult shoulder to chest ratio, so it was bound not to work for you.

I knew beforehand that the FH would not fit because of the unusually wide shoulders. Hence the reason I wrote "predictably, . . ."

I was thinking about it today and as far as I can see it, try to find an RMC locally to try it on.

I would love to, but there are no local RMC retailers. Does anyone in SoCal have a RMC cross-zip in a 42 or 44 that I can try on?

or the only other option I could think of, would be to actually go with Thedi.

I don't know how to spec a proper fit and would end up eating a large loss.

You are currently at the edge of the crosszips swimming pool, you dipped your toe and found it to be cold. That's ok, it is pretty normal. My advice is to just jump in, sure it will feel cold at first but as you get used to the temperature, you will not want to get out of that pool anymore . . . I think you already made the most difficult decision which is to get a crosszip, now the fun part begins, which is to choose the one you will end up with

Truthfully, I have not yet made a firm decision to purchase a cross-zip and, based on my initial testing, I am far from convinced that a cross-zip is for me. I wanted to find a proper fit to see how it drapes and decide whether a cross-zip is something I feel comfortable wearing. The awkward fits of the four jackets I tried on moved me in the opposite direction. I am still open to the idea but, unless and until I try on a cross-zip that sings to me, I am still firmly uncommitted.

 

[Wildhorses]

This is the black Steerhide label that used after the short lived Green label. This label is used all through the 40s into the early 50s. I have a jacket a similar jacket in this style. The zipper can date it 40s or 50s.

View attachment 324963 View attachment 324965 View attachment 324964

Hi, this jacket is really close to the one I bought. Most différences are : no baby Pocket (a zipped one on chest instead), no laces, and a simpler black, and you have a like new jacket! With the fur collar!
I like yours a lot more, but at this point I can only buy what I am able to find, at my size.
About the goatskin one, I got an answer, but I still Don't know if it will ever be for sale.
I am pretty sure you had already found the site where it is shown : Workers (e-workers.net)
But that may just be the part of a personal collection, not for sale. Anyway, I knwo I couldn't afford it, knowing how pricey they are in Japan. And it may be too small too, looks like a size 40, I may be wrong. Thanks for your answer, when will you open the Ralphs Pugh thread, I know you were working on it ?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Why not ask Thurston Bros. to send you a Thedi fit try on jacket.
They nailed my cross zip fit for me....or the way I like mine to fit....

I added a little sleeve and body length to the stock Thedi.

 

[Superfluous]

Why not ask Thurston Bros. to send you a Thedi fit try on jacket.
They nailed my cross zip fit for me....or the way I like mine to fit....
View attachment 324979 View attachment 324980
I added a little sleeve and body length to the stock Thedi.

TB does not have any Thedi cross-zips in stock in my size.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

They sent me a Thedi shawl collar button up for fit but I was able get my desired size, sleeve and body length nailed down. Sent them a photo and they ordered my Thedi cross zip to agreeable specs. It came out the way I wanted it. Thurston Bros. knows Thedi's sizing comparable to U.S. sizing.

 

[tmitchell59]

Hi, this jacket is really close to the one I bought. Most différences are : no baby Pocket (a zipped one on chest instead), no laces, and a simpler black, and you have a like new jacket! With the fur collar!
I like yours a lot more, but at this point I can only buy what I am able to find, at my size.
About the goatskin one, I got an answer, but I still Don't know if it will ever be for sale.
I am pretty sure you had already found the site where it is shown : Workers (e-workers.net)
But that may just be the part of a personal collection, not for sale. Anyway, I knwo I couldn't afford it, knowing how pricey they are in Japan. And it may be too small too, looks like a size 40, I may be wrong. Thanks for your answer, when will you open the Ralphs Pugh thread, I know you were working on it ?

`

We can do more on the RP thread when you get your jacket. There are a few RP jackets in shops in Japan. I have not tried to buy any other jackets from Japan. I have through yahoo auction.

I notice this jacket is near a size 44? That is a nice size to own. I just have not seen one quite like this, so it will be exciting.