Cross zip nation

[Monitor]

That was the first cross-zip I tried on.

Christ... Right. I didn't recognize it. I really am not well. I guess I wanted to post this one and then forgot Double Helix and I dunno...

https://standardandstrange.com/products/beta-leather-jacket-black-horsehide?variant=37853551132845

 

[Wildhorses]

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We can do more on the RP thread when you get your jacket. There are a few RP jackets in shops in Japan. I have not tried to buy any other jackets from Japan. I have through yahoo auction.

I notice this jacket is near a size 44? That is a nice size to own. I just have not seen one quite like this, so it will be exciting.

The 46 PTP chest measurement leads to 42-44, the shoulders at 19,5 says 44.
I know it would fit ypu perfectly. I am the same height as you, if I'm not mistaken (175cm), but I only weigh 76 KG, with a 41 inches chest. I will probably have to wear it over a shirt or a sweater, that's nice for me, as I Don't want to wear this kind of heavy jacket over only a Tee. If it's wearable…
Anyway, when I get it, I may take any pics to share here, of course.

 

[red devil]

I knew beforehand that the FH would not fit because of the unusually wide shoulders. Hence the reason I wrote "predictably, . . ."

Oups, missed that word. Yes, it was indeed to be expected

I don't know how to spec a proper fit and would end up eating a large loss.

I have never dealt with Thurston Bros, but they do have a reputation for getting the fit very close to the customer's requirements.
I can add that Theo is really impressive at getting a good fit, I have never given him any other numbers apart my body measurements.

The pattern of that jacket is also terrific, I got it when I was heavier and it still fits me well after losing 15kg.

Truthfully, I have not yet made a firm decision to purchase a cross-zip and, based on my initial testing, I am far from convinced that a cross-zip is for me. I wanted to find a proper fit to see how it drapes and decide whether a cross-zip is something I feel comfortable wearing. The awkward fits of the four jackets I tried on moved me in the opposite direction. I am still open to the idea but, unless and until I try on a cross-zip that sings to me, I am still firmly uncommitted.

That's pretty much in line with the swimming pool analogy, "you dipped your toe and found it to be cold"

Hence why I recommend you to just jump in and see how you get on

There is indeed always a price to pay to get to know something, you had to experiment to get to know what you wanted out of half belts. It is the same here, there is still an element of risk, albeit a much reduced one, thanks to your experience - even if you feel unconfortable with the differences.

I get the feeling that you really want a crosszip, it is just a matter of making it work for you

 

[navetsea]

I wonder if there is a proportion guide where to ideally fold the lapel? Do you just wear and follow the prefolded lapel done by the manufacturer, or do you try to find your own folding line, I suppose the one with snaps is more or less predecided by the manufacturer. I think the folding line when the crosszip jacket worn half zipped looked a bit too high for the time where these jacket worn open.

do I have to follow the golden ratio 1.618 from the total length of the zipper? 1 open : 1.618 zipped and fold the lapel there,
and the other way around fold it at 1.618 from the top of the zip when worn open

 

[Monitor]

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.
View attachment 324838

This keeps nagging at me; What makes you think that? First time I've heard anything like this ever being mentioned. Whatever numbers that work for one style of jacket for me, work just as fine for any other.

 

[Marc mndt]

I don't care that much about numbers anymore. I've bought jackets with 21.5 ptp that (judging by the numbers) should have been too small but ended up being a perfect fit, and I've bought jackets with 23' ptp that felt tight and restrictive.

Lately I just go by intuition and somehow that works great for me.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Superfluous,
The cross zip in your photo looks odd. Excessively long in the body with short sleeves. You should try other brands. My cross zips are normally the same size that I wear in my other jackets.
HD

 

[Superfluous]

I don't care that much about numbers anymore. I've bought jackets with 21.5 ptp that (judging by the numbers) should have been too small but ended up being a perfect fit, and I've bought jackets with 23' ptp that felt tight and restrictive.

Lately I just go by intuition and somehow that works great for me.

Numbers do not always work, but they are a very good start when deciding whether to purchase a jacket online. I do not purchase jackets online that fall outside my established numerical ranges because, more often than not, they do not fit and I am not interested in flipping a dozen poorly fitting jackets so that I might find one unicorn that defies the numbers. Perhaps I miss a couple of numerically defying jackets, but I also avoid selling many jackets along the way and all the associated hassles.

 

[Superfluous]

Superfluous,
The cross zip in your photo looks odd. Excessively long in the body with short sleeves. You should try other brands. My cross zips are normally the same size that I wear in my other jackets.
HD

Thanks HD. I will keep poking around locally.

 

[TREEMAN]

Super , keep up the search.. you are on the rite track. Getting warmer and warmer ....that perfect cross zip shall soon be yours !!

 

[navetsea]

I think with crosszip (just a theory since I only have cross snaps and cross toggle lock jacket lol) if you plan to wear mostly open you should get one with p2p just big enough to zip up but feel tight fully zipped (perhaps a size smaller than your centerzip), so when worn open there's not much overlapping on the front,
but if you plan to wear it half zipped most of the time, then you need something that feel and look fitted zipped but still comfy to be worn like that allday (your normal centerzip sizing) but with a side adjuster you can cinch in for the time you wear it open to not flaring out.

 

[Marc mndt]

I think with crosszip (just a theory since I only have cross snaps and cross toggle lock jacket lol) if you plan to wear mostly open you should get one with p2p just big enough to zip up but feel tight fully zipped (perhaps a size smaller than your centerzip), so when worn open there's not much overlapping on the front,
but if you plan to wear it half zipped most of the time, then you need something that feel and look fitted zipped but still comfy to be worn like that allday (your normal centerzip sizing) but with a side adjuster you can cinch in for the time you wear it open to not flaring out.

This Aero Bird of Prey has a 24" ptp which seems huge compared to what I usually wear (22"-22.5"). Yet I think it looks great both zipped and unzipped.

 

[navetsea]

This Aero Bird of Prey has a 24" ptp which seems huge compared to what I usually wear (22"-22.5"). Yet I think it looks great both zipped and unzipped.

View attachment 325733

I think because it is almost an off center straight zip than really cross, the more slanted the zip the wider overlapping panel underneath to keep the same lapel for both sides unless it is a fencing jacket with asymmetrical collar

the opening on that aero is Y shaped, while the ones with more slanted cross right from the bottom typically have X shaped opening from what I see

 

[Monitor]

This Aero Bird of Prey has a 24" ptp which seems huge compared to what I usually wear (22"-22.5"). Yet I think it looks great both zipped and unzipped.

View attachment 325733

It does look great. Better than that. Numbers aren't really all that important, I've been saying that for a while now. I'm again much more inclined to put my faith only in a general size number and take it from there. If the jacket fits, P2P can vary a good two inches.
Actually, just put the jacket on and see if it fits the way you like it. If it does, that's that.

 

[navetsea]

I imagine if that aero BoP has a brand new panel real flat , then probably a wearer with many other jackets to choose from will see it is slightly too big and move it on, but since it is now already worn in and sagging naturally it looks good and more effortless than something really tailored perfect fit with zero room for drape.

I only know a minimum number that I can't fit around my chest anything between 46cm to 52cm PtoP works on me. I would go to smaller side of the range if the leather is thinner since thin leather creases more and make uglier thin creases, but if the leather is thick I can wear the full range from 92cm around chest to 104cm around chest and imo looking good in it as long as the waist is waisted ) ( and not a shapeless square | |

if the waist is square like many modern type3 then I really have to go with tight fit around the chest even pushing it a bit into 45cm P2P if the jacket is buttoned (since the button would be pulled to the edge and button hole will stretch easily adding 1 or 2 cm extra room).

 

[Marc mndt]

There's an Aero BoP listed in the classifieds section which I think looks great (although I'm not a fan of the print on the back). I think this design is underrated. Why aren't we seeing more of these?

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...acket-lederjacke-sz-36-s.103799/#post-2801838

 

[navetsea]

how come the pocket position and the collar spread looked different than yours?

angry kakatua on the back is rad.. why didn't they draw a flying bird pose instead

 

[dannyk]

The “issue” with measurements is there’s a lot of factors that are not measured or can’t be. The size of the armholes, the angle of them, where the stitching is placed, angle of the shoulders, thickness and drape of the leather. Brand new or worn in. There’s a range I think we all kinda know in a general sense. But I’ve had numbers that should work that don’t and ones that shouldn’t that do based on all these other factors.

 

[Marc mndt]

how come the pocket position and the collar spread looked different than yours?

angry kakatua on the back is rad.. why didn't they draw a flying bird pose instead

I think it's because unlike mine, the above is made from hh which is stiffer and therefore the lapels stay in shape much better.

 

[Monitor]

There's an Aero BoP listed in the classifieds section which I think looks great (although I'm not a fan of the print on the back). I think this design is underrated. Why aren't we seeing more of these?

View attachment 325739

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...acket-lederjacke-sz-36-s.103799/#post-2801838

That's a really great looking jacket. IMO, best thing Aero's done. Lapels are just about as perfect as it gets, pocket setup & angles are right, lovely color and those button cuffs are great call, instead of zips... Can't find anything on this jacket that I find either too much or too little. Tame-ish style when you're not feeling wearing a loud cross zip or whatever and still fun enough you won't get bored.