Cross zip nation

[jonbuilder]

Very Nice! I found the jacket with the original Ralphs-Pugh label. This label was first used c.1938. This is not my jacket.

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I would like to hear more about this Ralphs Pugh Terry, Is this yours? I like the D-pock and the leather

 

[tmitchell59]

I would like to hear more about this Ralphs Pugh Terry, Is this yours? I like the D-pock and the leather

No, that is not my jacket. I have only the picture of that jacket. I have several of their jackets from the early 1950s.

I have many notes on the company which I intend to put in some order. I have a notice of RP incorporation which I recall is from 1928. I gather they worked in rubber, leather, and cloth making all manner of clothing. They were advertised in the West, but make appearances at retailers around the country. H&L Block was very similar only it seems they were more national in their reach perhaps a larger concern. They too made a variety of outerwear and other garments.

Your home, The Bay Area, was home to many makers and the large California Tanning industry of the day. This adds up to some very fine leather outerwear.

Go down the coast and you have Trojan, Star Glove, California Sportswear and other makers long gone. There is little information on these makers, but more comes up.

 

[handymike]

Their main business was/ is manufacturing of conveyor belts and parts. The jackets were a “side hustle” which became larger during the “war years” according to the granddaughter. Unfortunately, she doesn’t have a collection of jackets.

 

[Wildhorses]

This great thread has thus far been pushed to six feet under. Here’s a new score, well, shelled out a lot of money but I think the leather condition is exceptional for its age. Front zip replaced obviously and shoddy lining job but it’s a very beefy jacket and fits me! This is the kind of double stitch faux D pocket, I actually like it, heart shaped.

This great thread has thus far been pushed to six feet under. Here’s a new score, well, shelled out a lot of money but I think the leather condition is exceptional for its age. Front zip replaced obviously and shoddy lining job but it’s a very beefy jacket and fits me! This is the kind of double stitch faux D pocket, I actually like it, heart shaped.

Hi everyone, I am new here, but I've been reading a lot of infos on TFL. Excuse my english, I am from France. Crazy knowledge to be seen from many loungers. I am now looking for some Ralphs Pugh too, and I have seen some of the nice jackets from Terry's collection, just incredible. Regius jacket I had seen on Etsy, and I was wondering if the same seller had any other cross zip, he's got these (poor condition) ones, but not sure if they are RP.

I have found other better looking jackets too, I will post later if interested.

 

[Wildhorses]

There are not many of these Ralphs Pugh available, maybe it's easier to find in the US, or in Japan now. I know they were mostly steerhide, some were horsehide, and I just saw this one in goatskin.
I am still waiting to get more info on it.

 

[tmitchell59]

Their main business was/ is manufacturing of conveyor belts and parts. The jackets were a “side hustle” which became larger during the “war years” according to the granddaughter. Unfortunately, she doesn’t have a collection of jackets.

When I first read her comments I thought they made sense, but not so much anymore. RP was probably considered an essential business by supplying industrial parts for war time production. They should have been doing well with no need for a "side hustle". If anything, the clothing production would have been reduced.

RP was incorporated in 1918. They are advertised as makers of wet weather garments in 1920. There are RP jacket ads from the 20s through the early 50s. They are listed along with HL Block, Levi, Sierra and others in the same ad. They were not unknown.

The business is still owned by the family. I emailed one of the owners and they knew very little about the jacket production.

Ralphs-Pugh, despite what the company believes, was a significant maker of leather jackets and other garments. I don't know how all this could have been lost.

 

[Wildhorses]

Some pics more

 

[tmitchell59]

There are not many of these Ralphs Pugh available, maybe it's easier to find in the US, or in Japan now. I know they were mostly steerhide, some were horsehide, and I just saw this one in goatskin.
I am still waiting to get more info on it.
View attachment 324803

I have pictures of that jacket. Did not know it was for sale. This is a beautiful jacket. This is the jackets label

Steerhide seems to be their primary leather in the 30s and 40s with Horsehide dominant in the early 50s. Like most leather makers they catered to Police and Motorcycle riders. Their "civilian" garments are harder to find. They made some very unique jackets.

I bought a RP jacket in Japan and a RP vest. The others I have purchased here. They don't come around that often.

 

[tmitchell59]

Hi everyone, I am new here, but I've been reading a lot of infos on TFL. Excuse my english, I am from France. Crazy knowledge to be seen from many loungers. I am now looking for some Ralphs Pugh too, and I have seen some of the nice jackets from Terry's collection, just incredible. Regius jacket I had seen on Etsy, and I was wondering if the same seller had any other cross zip, he's got these (poor condition) ones, but not sure if they are RP.

I have found other better looking jackets too, I will post later if interested.

The Brown jacket is unusual being a police jacket and brown. I don't think it is a RP. The black jacket is possible a RP with added snaps on the front lapels. Not sure what is going on with the back

 

[Wildhorses]

I have pictures of that jacket. Did not know it was for sale. This is a beautiful jacket. This is the jackets label

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Steerhide seems to be their primary leather in the 30s and 40s with Horsehide dominant in the early 50s. Like most leather makers they catered to Police and Motorcycle riders. Their "civilian" garments are harder to find. They made some very unique jackets.

I bought a RP jacket in Japan and a RP vest. The others I have purchased here. They don't come around that often.

That's this one, I was almost wondering if there were already repros of these on the japaneses market...
I saw some of the ones you got, Terry, amongst many (so many) great jackets you show in your videos. If I ever find some civilian one, or even a police jacket like yours, in horsehide, it would be great. For the moment I found an MC one in steerhide, I just bought it, hopefully I won't regret it, it should arrive in a few weeks. I came across it by accident, the name was not in the title nor in the description, I did like the leather first, and then I saw the used STEERHIDE tag.

 

[regius]

I am eager to reproduce one of the cross zip. it'd be my next pattern development project, currently finishing off a civilian flight jacket.

 

[Wildhorses]

I am eager to reproduce one of the cross zip. it'd be my next pattern development project, currently finishing off a civilian flight jacket.

These jackets have Something special, not only the big collar, that makes them attractive.
Any pic of a repro would be appreciated, especially if it's without buckle/belt, and without zip sleeves.

 

[regius]

to me the elongated collar, downward lapel and the two sunburst box pleats at the waist is most attractive.

 

[handymike]

The pocket stitch detailwork should be corded/ raised somehow to show it off better.
The cuffs and collars are perfect, as is the drop. I wish the sleeves were slimmer and 1” added to the back...tweaks over.

 

[tmitchell59]

That's this one, I was almost wondering if there were already repros of these on the japaneses market...
I saw some of the ones you got, Terry, amongst many (so many) great jackets you show in your videos. If I ever find some civilian one, or even a police jacket like yours, in horsehide, it would be great. For the moment I found an MC one in steerhide, I just bought it, hopefully I won't regret it, it should arrive in a few weeks. I came across it by accident, the name was not in the title nor in the description, I did like the leather first, and then I saw the used STEERHIDE tag.
View attachment 324810

That one looks like it has a green steerhide label. I'm anxious to see more this one. Earliest I have seen in this style of jacket. Very interesting.

 

[Wildhorses]

That one looks like it has a green steerhide label. I'm anxious to see more this one. Earliest I have seen in this style of jacket. Very interesting.

The jacket still appears on the site, but I have a tracking number, it should be "en route" to France.
You will find some other pics there, until the seller removes them : https://mensvintageclothes.com/product/x371950-60svintage-black-leather-motorcycle-jacket380/

 

[handymike]

I think you should have a furry collar made for it!

 

[Wildhorses]

I think you should have a furry collar made for it!

It sure had it when new, but no mention of it now. I think the seller is not aware of what he exactly has exactly for sale, he's got too many clothes. Anyway if the jacket is still wearable, I will prefer without the fur collar, even if the leather on the collar is not great looking. I will see when it arrives here.

 

[Superfluous]

I went in with an open mind, hoping to find and purchase a cross-zip . . . and I failed miserably.

Two weeks ago, I tried on a Double Helix cross-zip at SOP. It was way, way too short and did not fit well. I also tried on an Addict cross-zip at Butterscotch. The leather was too rigid and the fit was awkward.

Last week, I tried on the Flat Head Delraiser and FCL Leon at SE. Predictably, the shoulders on the Delraiser were way too broad and the sleeves were too short. The Leon was too long, the shoulders were too broad, and it was generally too bulky (I couldn't zip up the smaller size).

I am discovering that cross-zips fit very differently and the measurements I traditionally use with great success for straight zips do not translate to cross-zips.

Given my general hesitancy concerning cross-zips, and my lack of familiarity with cross-zip sizing, I am unwilling to roll the dice with a new cross-zip jacket unless I try it on and confirm the fit in advance. Unfortunately, that limits my options.

At least I tried, albeit without success.

Flat Head Delraiser

FCL Leon

 

[J Leather Investigater]

I am eager to reproduce one of the cross zip. it'd be my next pattern development project, currently finishing off a civilian flight jacket.

I'm listening regius! Because now your talking to me