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Can you help me date this item??

KittyT

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hotrodmama0201 said:
but that sucks. I'm dissapointed :( I guess I need to train my eye more and do some additional reading on here about identifying stuff better. I hate thinking I've brought a "gem" home only for it to be some 70's or 80's POS. Guess I've got something to do tonight!

You'll get used to dating stuff. As Lady Day said, first look at the fiber content (if it's marked on the tag), the zipper and the seams. You'll learn the styles eventually as well - the 50s Hawaiian dresses almost always have sarong or circle skirts with straps or halters, often removable. They rarely have sleeves and those flutter sleeves, which were popular in the 30s, didn't have a re-emergence until the 70s.
 

Miss_Bella_Hell

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hotrodmama0201 said:
Thanks for your help ladies....

but that sucks. I'm dissapointed :( I guess I need to train my eye more and do some additional reading on here about identifying stuff better. I hate thinking I've brought a "gem" home only for it to be some 70's or 80's POS. Guess I've got something to do tonight!

You'll definitely get used to it. Metal zippers are a big indicator (roughly, zip placement on the side of a dress indicates 40's and on the back indicates 50's). If there is a fabric content tag with cleaning instructions, it's also more than likely modern. And if there's no union tag, more than likely modern. Oh, and if there's a size tag, it will seem way wrong. I take an 8 modern and a 16 in vintage, for example.

Of course, tags do fall off, and there are also more nuanced ways like the stitching and finishing, but I don't know how to describe it, only how to look for it!! lol

Also, don't fret too much about 70s/80s stuff. When it's newer you can alter it with abandon and not worry about destroying a piece of history!! :) In the 70s and 80s there were copies of 40s and 50s stuff made, so it can look authentic with just a few alterations.
 

Laura Chase

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It will also help you a lot to study some golden era dresses, I found that once I got one of these in my hands, I really got better at determining if something is post or pre 70's. As the other ladies have said, the quality of the fabric, the finishing, the zipper...

Also, apart from what the other ladies have said, I think what Lady Day said has helped me a lot, namely looking at how the seams are finished. I don't know when dresses with overlocked seams started being made, but I don't have any golden era dresses that have this.

Don't worry about it, most of us collecting vintage have tried this, especially in the beginning. Also, you can get 70's dresses that really do look inter-war and can definitely be accessorized to give the illusion. The fabric is really the deal breaker - if you can find cotton dresses, you're ready to go!
 

KittyT

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Laura Chase said:
I don't know when dresses with overlocked seams started being made, but I don't have any golden era dresses that have this.

Overlocked seams started in the late 50s, but you would only see them in a dress that was store-bought/factory made, not in anything hand sewn.

Eventually you'll learn how to tell if something's vintage, Hotrodmama, though it may not be easy to tell exactly when it's from! For example, I have a wiggle dress with overlocked seams and a metal side zipper. Side zippers were commonly 40s but this dress obviously isn't. You'll learn how to weigh the different aspects of a dress to get a better idea of how to date it.
 

hotrodmama0201

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Thanks Everyone!

Miss_Bella_Hell said:
If there is a fabric content tag with cleaning instructions, it's also more than likely modern. And if there's no union tag, more than likely modern. .

Hmm.....Union Tag?? I thought that meant something.....how about this one?? I tried to get a good pic of it, but couldn't. The tag is red, white and blue and says "International Ladies' Garmet Workers Union" Also, there is no fabric care instruction tag and no size tag. Metal zipper though.....and another thing that throws me off is the polyester. Was is completely non-existant before the 70's? This dress is confusing me :)

2008_1216ttp0015-1.jpg
 

KittyT

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hotrodmama0201 said:
Hmm.....Union Tag?? I thought that meant something.....how about this one?? I tried to get a good pic of it, but couldn't. The tag is red, white and blue and says "International Ladies' Garmet Workers Union" Also, there is no fabric care instruction tag and no size tag. Metal zipper though.....and another thing that throws me off is the polyester. Was is completely non-existant before the 70's? This dress is confusing me :)

2008_1216ttp0015-1.jpg

This dress is most likely 50s, though it's hard to tell without really being able to see the shape. Chances are it's some kind of synthetic, possibly a rayon blend, that you're mistaking for polyester.
 

Lady Day

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The Graphic design of the tag hanging in the middle o the dress looks 50s (mid to late) to me as well.

*Side note*
If graphics use heavily the font Helvetica as opposed to a more script and/or serif font (for title and body copy), its late 50s.

LD
 

Foofoogal

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Miss Bella Hell

Why do you think your coat is not faux? If it is because of the cleaning label I have a Tissavel coat that is faux with a professional cleaning for instructions. Looks like a warm coat anyway.
 

Miss_Bella_Hell

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Foofoogal said:
Miss Bella Hell

Why do you think your coat is not faux? If it is because of the cleaning label I have a Tissavel coat that is faux with a professional cleaning for instructions. Looks like a warm coat anyway.

Well, that was part of it. But it feels real to me, and I have a pretty good ability to tell the difference. Is there a way to be sure?

And yes it's VERY warm, I wore it today and was snuggly warm in the snow.
 

hotrodmama0201

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KittyT said:
This dress is most likely 50s, though it's hard to tell without really being able to see the shape. Chances are it's some kind of synthetic, possibly a rayon blend, that you're mistaking for polyester.

Well.....the tag says.....
2008_1216ttp0014.jpg


That's why I was confused.
 

LizzieMaine

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hotrodmama0201 said:
and another thing that throws me off is the polyester. Was is completely non-existant before the 70's? This dress is confusing me :)

Polyester fabrics were first marketed in 1954, most often under the brand name "Dacron," so it's entirely possible to have a genuine '50s garment with some polyester content. It was most often blended with wool, rayon, or cotton, although "all-Dacron" fabrics were also around then. The fact that the label doesn't use the trademark name of Dacron suggests a later date to me -- likely after the expiration of the Dacron patents in the mid-60s.
 

KittyT

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Foofoogal said:
Why do you think your coat is not faux? If it is because of the cleaning label I have a Tissavel coat that is faux with a professional cleaning for instructions. Looks like a warm coat anyway.

This is true. I have a fake fur leopard coat that has a tag specifying "clean using traditional fur method"
 

KittyT

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hotrodmama0201 said:
Well.....the tag says.....
2008_1216ttp0014.jpg


That's why I was confused.

Could be early 60s. Any way you can post a picture of you modeling the dress? It looks lovely and I'm sure many here would love to see the detail on the bodice!
 

Lady Day

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hotrodmama0201 said:
Thanks for your help ladies....

but that sucks. I'm dissapointed :( I guess I need to train my eye more and do some additional reading on here about identifying stuff better. I hate thinking I've brought a "gem" home only for it to be some 70's or 80's POS. Guess I've got something to do tonight!


It takes a lot of work. There is more dreck than gems now a days. That reminds me of coming across this:

IMG_0172.jpg


I almost passed it by as 80s does 40s, until I, well, looked at the color scheme and touched the fabric. SO heavy, so I pulled it out. Hand made. The fabric had been pinked, the seam allowance was a good 1 1/2". The lining had been hand sewn in. That pocket treatment, and those glass buttons. WOW

Simple A line skirt (4 gored) metal zipper on the side (but looked like it had been replaced.

IMG_0173.jpg


IMG_0174.jpg


I think it was an early teen's suit (12-15 years old), because it was like a 21" waist. Whatever lol But it was tough to pass up. I just hope it went to a good home.

Am I dating that right? It feels war time but perhaps earlier?

LD
 

hotrodmama0201

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KittyT said:
Could be early 60s. Any way you can post a picture of you modeling the dress? It looks lovely and I'm sure many here would love to see the detail on the bodice!


It looks lovely on, actually. I'll do that. I'll also snap some pics of the inner seams for you, LC.
 

Lily Powers

Practically Family
hotrodmama0201 said:
The tag is red, white and blue and says "International Ladies' Garmet Workers Union"

Does the ILGWU label look like this?
ilgwu.jpg

This label was used between 1974 and 1995.

You mentioned your dress didn't have a fabric care label, and those labels weren't required by the FTC until 1971. I'll bet when you post a photo of the dress on, someone with more experience in vintage clothing will narrow it down for you. :)
 

KittyT

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Lily Powers said:
Does the ILGWU label look like this?
ilgwu.jpg

This label was used between 1974 and 1995.

One thing to keep in mind: items from a particular period may still have a union label in them from an earlier time period (it was common for older labels to still be in stock in the factories), so dating by the union label isn't always accurate.
 

Sunny

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Lady Day said:
It takes a lot of work. There is more dreck than gems now a days. That reminds me of coming across this:

IMG_0172.jpg


I almost passed it by as 80s does 40s, until I, well, looked at the color scheme and touched the fabric. SO heavy, so I pulled it out. Hand made. The fabric had been pinked, the seam allowance was a good 1 1/2". The lining had been hand sewn in. That pocket treatment, and those glass buttons. WOW

Simple A line skirt (4 gored) metal zipper on the side (but looked like it had been replaced.

<snip>

I think it was an early teen's suit (12-15 years old), because it was like a 21" waist. Whatever lol But it was tough to pass up. I just hope it went to a good home.

Am I dating that right? It feels war time but perhaps earlier?

LD
Wow, that's such a pretty fabric! I think it's later, actually. Just an overall feel from the way it drapes; also the shawl collar, how very high it buttons up, high breast pockets with flaps, and the shorter jacket length are all things I see on later 40s suits. I love the bias binding!
 

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