Cal-Leather

[tmitchell59]

Same year of his death, 1955.

https://www.artsy.net/artwork/phil-stern-james-dean-on-motorcycle-sitting-on-front-los-angeles

I was 3 or so. He also wore a JC Penney Sportclad with a black lining.

@tmitchell59 pretty sure I found the conmar Paperclip zipper is from 1951.

Featured on the 1951 M-51 Field Jacket and fishtail Parker.

Talon paperclip might be different date.

​

thanks

I have a paper clip on one of my SGs the other two have Crowns

What year did the Star Glove label end?

Paper clips were used in the early '40s. When I restore garments for my local aviation museum, I saw many Paper clip zippers used in (talon, crown, and conmars) 40's military garments. In true honesty, as I stated before, Conmar made excellent #10 military zippers. Durability-wise, conmar and talons have it over spring-loaded crowns. Reliability-wise, the none spring crowns are in the same level as the conmar and talon. However, The strongest military paper clip Zipper I have ever seen is still RiRi#10 with the metal riveted ends and the super strong wide teeth Talons. Lastly, the 50's military garment industry saw a vast use of #10 zippers used in the American field jackets. Ideal, serval, and others produced excellent zippers that are still in working order despite 60 to 70 years of us.

Thanks, Just been thinking about something.

thanks for all the responses, each piece adds up.

 

[jonbuilder]

What year did the Star Glove label end?

I believe it was 1949 per the current Cal Leather owner. The Paper clip zip might be an early jacket, the Crown was not available to the public until the end of WW2

 

[Leigh H]

I believe it was 1949 per the current Cal Leather owner. The Paper clip zip might be an early jacket, the Crown was not available to the public until the end of WW2

It's say 1945 on their Instagram, but i've also heard 1947 in the past.

 

[photo2u]

I believe it was 1949 per the current Cal Leather owner. The Paper clip zip might be an early jacket, the Crown was not available to the public until the end of WW2

Many of the Crown zippers were developed in the late '30s. In the late 40s and early 50s, the American arm forces garment providers drastically increased the use of crown zippers in their production. It is clearly seen in their use of flight garments during the Korean War.

 

[Leigh H]

Came across a suede Star Glove today. Condition wasn’t great, it was too small for me. Interesting to see though.

 

[photo2u]

Came across a suede Star Glove today. Condition wasn’t great, it was too small for me. Interesting to see though.

Beautiful jacket! I was wondering, do you have the name of the place that is selling it? Do they have a webpage or Instagram?

 

[Albe64]

Old CAL refreshed with a huge amount of Pecard....

 

[Leigh H]

Beautiful jacket! I was wondering, do you have the name of the place that is selling it? Do they have a webpage or Instagram?

Dandy Vintage in Hastings. They have some Items on Depop but not everything. I couldn’t see the jacket online. They wanted £400 for it.

Vintage Retro Clothing Shop | Dandy Vintage | England

We are Dandy Vintage. A vintage and retro clothing shop in Hastings Old Town stocking a vast array of vintage clothing and homewares including an entire room dedicated to military clothing and paraphernalia.

www.dandyvintage.co.uk

 

[photo2u]

Dandy Vintage in Hastings. They have some Items on Depop but not everything. I couldn’t see the jacket online. They wanted £400 for it.

Vintage Retro Clothing Shop | Dandy Vintage | England

We are Dandy Vintage. A vintage and retro clothing shop in Hastings Old Town stocking a vast array of vintage clothing and homewares including an entire room dedicated to military clothing and paraphernalia.

www.dandyvintage.co.uk

Thanks so much for the info brother. I will check them out.

 

[Kubatu]

Never seen a Cal with chest pockets like this before. Gorgeous jacket!

 

[Wildhorses]

Never seen a Cal with chest pockets like this before. Gorgeous jacket!

Either the maker was drunk , or the owner wanted reverse pockets.
These are not handwarmer pockets anymore.

 

[Jasonissm]

Either the maker was drunk , or the owner wanted reverse pockets.
These are not handwarmer pockets anymore.

I never use handwarmer pockets for my hands, just putting stuff in, especially for shorter jackets, I just don't think its comfortable. I think the original customer has a similar use case?

 

[Will Zach]

I think the original customer has a similar use case?

 

[Bluechel]

Big question….exactly how can you tell when the Star Glove became red label Cals if many don’t have labels? Collar size, but is that foolproof?

 

[Bluechel]

I did notice that the red label tags leave a glue residue, no?

 

[axlepressbutton]

I bought a late 50's early 60's CAL off market place a few months ago for $200. Perfect fit (42) and leather in great condition.
It had a few issues so I sent it to CAL leather in CA to bring it up to spec.

They put new lining in the sleeves and replaced the fur in the cuffs.
They replaced the main zip and a zip on one sleeve but used most of the old hardware.
They also fixed an issue with one of the lapels where it wasn't folding back correctly and repaired the lining in the back of the neck.
Lastly I had them make me up a mouton color in dark brown with some vintage mouton I sent them with the jacket.
They even put an age appropriate label in it as it didn't have one.

I received it back today after being with them for about 4 weeks. Super happy with the results and I think the jacket is now worth more than I have in it.
No more issues, a great fit and a great work horse of a jacket without the worry of damaging something older / more exotic.

 

[Bluechel]

I bought a late 50's early 60's CAL off market place a few months ago for $200. Perfect fit (42) and leather in great condition.
It had a few issues so I sent it to CAL leather in CA to bring it up to spec.

They put new lining in the sleeves and replaced the fur in the cuffs.
They replaced the main zip and a zip on one sleeve but used most of the old hardware.
They also fixed an issue with one of the lapels where it wasn't folding back correctly and repaired the lining in the back of the neck.
Lastly I had them make me up a mouton color in dark brown with some vintage mouton I sent them with the jacket.
They even put an age appropriate label in it as it didn't have one.

I received it back today after being with them for about 4 weeks. Super happy with the results and I think the jacket is now worth more than I have in it.
No more issues, a great fit and a great work horse of a jacket without the worry of damaging something older / more exotic.

View attachment 554912 View attachment 554913 View attachment 554914

Well you know we all want to know how reasonable the cost was!

 

[Al 916]

Could those that have had comms with Cal directly please advise.
Are they generally good at replying to emails?

I have emailed a couple of times to ask about a custom Collar.

It may be they are more a call type of business?

 

[Al 916]

Either the maker was drunk , or the owner wanted reverse pockets.
These are not handwarmer pockets anymore.

Long arms?

 

[axlepressbutton]

Well you know we all want to know how reasonable the cost was!

$520 shipped back.