Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Jasonissm]

Anyone know about this Oregon label? Made in Australia apparently 50s from the listing. Kind or regret not bidding on this one, it looked nice.

 

[Marc mndt]

Anyone know about this Oregon label? Made in Australia apparently 50s from the listing. Kind or regret not bidding on this one, it looked nice.

View attachment 477998 View attachment 477999 View attachment 478000

The zipper indicates it's indeed 50s

 

[Observe]

Does anyone generally know if wearing a jacket with a zip out liner minus the liner can lead to the exposed zipper damaging clothes worn underneath the jacket? Oddball question I know, just considering a certain jacket with a missing zip out liner and wondering about possible issues.

 

[ton312]

Does anyone know If HPA is still operating?
https://www.historypreservation.com

 

[Observe]

Does anyone know If HPA is still operating?
https://www.historypreservation.com

Yes, I was corresponding with Charles via email as recently as Monday.

 

[Aloysius]

Does anyone know If HPA is still operating?
https://www.historypreservation.com

In fact, he recently stocked something that made me think of you.

 

[ton312]

In fact, he recently stocked something that made me think of you.

GET OUT OF MY BRAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL...literally just looked at that today, and the pea...he is well below what others are charging. I know Charles had some family related difficulties a few years back and haven't seen him post in a very long time, so I wasn't sure if anyone had done any business of late. I'm glad to hear he's still at it. I always appreciated his passion for this stuff.

 

[Observe]

I only recently became aware of HPA but I have to say Charles has been incredibly helpful in my contact with him, even when it became apparent that his answers to my questions would not lead to a sale for the item in question. Seems like a solid guy.

 

[Aloysius]

GET OUT OF MY BRAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL...literally just looked at that today, and the pea...he is well below what others are charging. I know Charles had some family related difficulties a few years back and haven't seen him post in a very long time, so I wasn't sure if anyone had done any business of late. I'm glad to hear he's still at it. I always appreciated his passion for this stuff.

Yeah his prices are great and his customer service unbeatable.

He told me in an email a year and a half ago that he had some big upcoming plans for the store though I imagine they were derailed a bit by supply chain/COVID issues. Hopefully they’re back on.

I only recently became aware of HPA but I have to say Charles has been incredibly helpful in my contact with him, even when it became apparent that his answers to my questions would not lead to a sale for the item in question. Seems like a solid guy.

He even gave me fit advice on BR items that he doesn’t sell.

 

[Damon141]

Victory Leather from Bill Kelso

I just wanted to ask here if there is a source for this?

I didn’t want to start a whole thread or dig up a Kelso thread.

I really like the graining and the color, I’m guessing it’s available if you’re able to find it because these makers seem to embellish the branding or marketing of their leather.
Much like Himel oil tanned Shinki, I imagine it is full aniline Shinki and considering they run with one person stitching jackets, and the other variety of leather available, I just can’t imagine Shinki providing a “special leather” for a small maker but who knows.

 

[58panheadfan]

Looking for cool shops in las vegas (usa) selling vintage inspired repros and american classics like filson, pendelton etc. I don't mean thrift stores or anything like that... asking for a friend.

 

[Aloysius]

anyone have any examples of a flattering A2. I've seen many A2s, but I swear it is one of the most unflattering silhouettes you can buy, so I want to see if it is possible to have it look slim / fitted

Why not just get an M-422A/AN-6552/G-1 type jacket?

The A-2 is definitely a cool jacket but the overall design was devised because of its minimal cost. The naval jackets on the other hand had a higher budget and much better pattern. It’s not as minimalist as the A-2, but again the minimalism of that jacket wasn’t due to a design decision. (Wartime pilots were thrilled when their fairly useless A-2s were replaced by the B-10, a wool-lined jacket with a fur collar.)

If the fur collar is too much, you can get an ANJ-3 to get both in one (it’s essentially a G-1 without the fur collar). Aero used to make the A-2 style version (I.e. epaulettes and windflap) for an upcharge (and I was ready to order one) but they’ve discontinued that as of the new site launch.

Victory Leather from Bill Kelso

I just wanted to ask here if there is a source for this?

As in the tannery name?

 

[handymike]

I think the Victory came from Victoria Tannery in Italy.
https://conceriavictoria.it/en/home-en/

 

[newtojackets]

Why not just get an M-422A/AN-6552/G-1 type jacket?

The A-2 is definitely a cool jacket but the overall design was devised because of its minimal cost. The naval jackets on the other hand had a higher budget and much better pattern. It’s not as minimalist as the A-2, but again the minimalism of that jacket wasn’t due to a design decision. (Wartime pilots were thrilled when their fairly useless A-2s were replaced by the B-10, a wool-lined jacket with a fur collar.)

If the fur collar is too much, you can get an ANJ-3 to get both in one (it’s essentially a G-1 without the fur collar). Aero used to make the A-2 style version (I.e. epaulettes and windflap) for an upcharge (and I was ready to order one) but they’ve discontinued that as of the new site launch.



As in the tannery name?

Agreed that the G1 looks better, this was more just curiosity rather than me looking to buy one

 

[Observe]

I like the JH1 look but not the RMC prices. Is there anywhere I can get the same or similar look?

 

[Aloysius]

I like the JH1 look but not the RMC prices. Is there anywhere I can get the same or similar look? View attachment 478821

Aero used to have a J-107 model, which is somewhat similar. Same pattern block as the J-106. It would be worth asking them.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Victory Leather from Bill Kelso

I just wanted to ask here if there is a source for this?

I didn’t want to start a whole thread or dig up a Kelso thread.

I really like the graining and the color, I’m guessing it’s available if you’re able to find it because these makers seem to embellish the branding or marketing of their leather.
Much like Himel oil tanned Shinki, I imagine it is full aniline Shinki and considering they run with one person stitching jackets, and the other variety of leather available, I just can’t imagine Shinki providing a “special leather” for a small maker but who knows.

My best guess is that it's from the Maryam tannery. There just isn't that many tannery that does horse (which is usually bi product of the shell business).
Maryam only does custom runs for the wholesale market and I wasn't able to buy in smaller square footage.
Dapper's Japan is doing a Trojan in the Maryam leather but it might be OEM'ed by Y2 and that isn't worth the high prices they are asking for imo. But I am just guessing this.
Regius has Maryam samples and he has confirmed that they are jerky and aniline, but he hasn't put an order through I don't think.
I believe BK charges so much for it because 1) no one knows who the source is, 2) aniline horsehide tends to have very high waste in cutting. Langlitz horsehide surcharge is also $1200 in comparison.
There is just not that many Victory hide jacket on the used market either. I haven't seen one. There is Victory sheep but Lewis already scratched that itch for me. Hard to beat Lewis' veg sheep from France.
My current BK order is using Badalassi. Victory Horse just too much. Still trying to find an alternative to scratch that itch.
There is one more question I have, is about Thedi's horsehide. I've only got his jackets in cowhides. But given his location, he could source from Maryam too. From photos, his current horsehide looks like the Victoria SRL semi aniline one that most makers use, except he wash and wax his.
I believe a black overdye would solve all the scars and marks associated with veg aniline and that can increase the square footage in cutting and bring the jacket price down to a more affordable level.

 

[Damon141]

My best guess is that it's from the Maryam tannery. There just isn't that many tannery that does horse (which is usually bi product of the shell business).
Maryam only does custom runs for the wholesale market and I wasn't able to buy in smaller square footage.
Dapper's Japan is doing a Trojan in the Maryam leather but it might be OEM'ed by Y2 and that isn't worth the high prices they are asking for imo. But I am just guessing this.
Regius has Maryam samples and he has confirmed that they are jerky and aniline, but he hasn't put an order through I don't think.
I believe BK charges so much for it because 1) no one knows who the source is, 2) aniline horsehide tends to have very high waste in cutting. Langlitz horsehide surcharge is also $1200 in comparison.
There is just not that many Victory hide jacket on the used market either. I haven't seen one. There is Victory sheep but Lewis already scratched that itch for me. Hard to beat Lewis' veg sheep from France.
My current BK order is using Badalassi. Victory Horse just too much. Still trying to find an alternative to scratch that itch.
There is one more question I have, is about Thedi's horsehide. I've only got his jackets in cowhides. But given his location, he could source from Maryam too. From photos, his current horsehide looks like the Victoria SRL semi aniline one that most makers use, except he wash and wax his.
I believe a black overdye would solve all the scars and marks associated with veg aniline and that can increase the square footage in cutting and bring the jacket price down to a more affordable level.

Thank you for the detailed response. I don’t want to pay the extreme surcharge either.
Same with Langlitz, I would just settle on cowhide.
Surcharge; when they charge that much extra for one particular leather, it makes me question the value of their regular leather options, basically are they getting them for nothing, because they should be removing the cost of the original which leads me to believe they should not have such expensive surcharges for any leather. (I hope that came out understandable)
The jump is crazy, the price for shinki seems to be about what it cost a manufacturer to make a Shinki jacket, but it should be less because they are not using the base Liberty hide (just a guess based on Goodwear & Fields, we will leave Himel out of this equation )
Then look at Victory hide £900 I can’t find any leather online that cost that much given the info on the average SQ Footage it takes to make a jacket.



Yes the Brucaito Horsehide, it’s my favorite hide Thedi offers, I think you are right on point with Maryam Tannery because Viberg has a Bruciato HorseButt service boot that’s been available for a while and it looks just like Thedi’s Bruciato minus the weathering treatment he uses.
There is a jacket maker in China on Taobao (Guofu)that makes jackets from Maryam, 1.5mm thick and looks every bit, he stands out because his prices are way more expensive than anything else besides imported products, $1,800 for full bespoke sizing. I was and am tempted to use him and his turn around time was like 2 weeks. The work looks really good, he makes a Mullholland clone and a LeatherTogs D pocket. What worries me is the language barrier and I know there is more to making a jacket than what I can see, like sleeve inset and rotation, the way the panel’s connect, how the sleeves are made to form a curved tunnel.
The Maryam he uses doesn’t have much grain almost glass smooth, like Horsebutt, i know that’s just how he orders it though.
I wonder what Maryam does to produce the grainy kind.

 

[TartuWolf]

I found this cool Vanson for sale : https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/c...ets/945425444-blouson-en-cuir-vanson-leathers
The thing I'm struggling with is how can it have such measurements for a size 38?
~42cm shoulders - ???
~47-48cm pit to pit - ???
~43cm waist - ???
~61cm arm length - OK
I'll ask to measure again with it being as flat as possible and give me the back length.
But all the measurements seem so small! More like a 34 than a 38.
Is it because it's a cafe race (very trim/slim) and has a full action back?

 

[Aloysius]

Should wear perfectly fine for a true 38. Racing shirts are close fitting on the surface but good patterning (Vanson’s specialty) especially with an action back will mean good range of motion.