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[Aloysius]

Anyone know where schott sources their steerhide?

US for steer/cow, Italy for horse. Exceptions like Shinki or Horween will be explicitly stated, but their in-house leathers are US and Italy.

I have a schott jacket made of their steerhide, and it has a finish which I've seen many people here call plasticky (which I agree with). How long does it usually take for this finish to fade?

Going to tag @Monitor if that's ok, know you're the resident schott expert

The topcoat? I love it. It's not plasticky–it looks that way because your jacket has barely broken in yet. Within a few weeks of wear, as the hide breaks in, it'll be like a coating on the creases and grain. It won't go completely matte… but I don't think you want it to.

Schott's standard leathers get dismissed by many so-called enthusiasts, but they're actually a lot more like actual vintage motorcycle jacket leathers than most consciously-repro leather.

At left is a 60s Perfecto, which I acquired in mint condition. At right is my modern 613SH. It's thicker and glossier, but otherwise you can tell these were tanned similarly. The 60s jacket at left feels like my steerhide modern Perfecto but it's barely broken in so this is a better comparison.

 

[newtojackets]

US for steer/cow, Italy for horse. Exceptions like Shinki or Horween will be explicitly stated, but their in-house leathers are US and Italy.


The topcoat? I love it. It's not plasticky–it looks that way because your jacket has barely broken in yet. Within a few weeks of wear, as the hide breaks in, it'll be like a coating on the creases and grain. It won't go completely matte… but I don't think you want it to.

Schott's standard leathers get dismissed by many so-called enthusiasts, but they're actually a lot more like actual vintage motorcycle jacket leathers than most consciously-repro leather.

View attachment 476253

At left is a 60s Perfecto, which I acquired in mint condition. At right is my modern 613SH. It's thicker and glossier, but otherwise you can tell these were tanned similarly. The 60s jacket at left feels like my steerhide modern Perfecto but it's barely broken in so this is a better comparison.

Really useful, thanks! I’m already seeing the break in you mentioned in some parts of the jacket, but oddly one of the sleeves seems to be completed unchanged (while the other sleeve is). Guess I just need to keep wearing it.

 

[Observe]

Anyone have sizing charts or measurements for the Eastman Californian? Been eyeing one in either a 42L or 44L, depending on measurements. ELC does not provide measurements on their website. History Preservation appears to show them, but I'm not sure if anyone has any experience with that retailer, or how reliable their measurements are: https://www.historypreservation.com...fornian-vintage-style-half-belt-jacket-black/

Going off their chart, it would seem I'm in the ballpark of the 42L. If any of you have first-hand experience handling this jacket in a similar size, please share.

Does anyone know if ELC keeps their Long sizes in stock, or would it be an MTO situation?

 

[Marc mndt]

any of you have first-hand experience handling this jacket in a similar size, please share.

Here's my size 42R... The L versions are 1" longer in body and sleeves.

As with most makers there's some variance, my Havana is slightly longer.

Does anyone know if ELC keeps their Long sizes in stock, or would it be an MTO situation?

MTO

 

[Observe]

Here's my size 42R... The L versions are 1" longer in body and sleeves.

View attachment 476739 View attachment 476740 View attachment 476741 View attachment 476742

As with most makers there's some variance, my Havana is slightly longer.

View attachment 476743


MTO

Thanks for the quick and helpful reply. I sent an email to History Preservation and ELC directly about the jacket, we will see who gets back first. There may be some delay, given the time of year. Do you find the bi-swing back provides any noticeable ease in range of motion? I had an RMC Nelson but sold it due to short sleeve length and the inability to raise my arms in it. I'd be happy to hear your general impressions of the jacket, if you haven't already made a more detailed post about it elsewhere.

I'm still on the hunt for a proper half-belt/sports jacket style, it seems. I don't think I can go with Aero; their neck shapes and positioning on the jackets are all too far "forward" for me and cause the neck hanging phenomenon. It's unfortunate, because I love their styles, and their customer service is amazing. I have spent hours poring over this forum, eBay, and various retailers for many different brands, narrowing down my options. I currently have an LVC half-belt jacket I got off a member here, but it feels a bit flimsy like a movie prop and I am not a fan of the artificial distressing. I'll try and post a fit pic later as I plan to wear it out tonight. The lining is also quite low quality and has ripped in two places after only a few wears. Disclaimer: this paragraph is less a question to be answered and more a stream-of-consciousness ramble based on my last few weeks of jacket hunting. I'm sure many of you have found yourselves in the same spot, if you aren't currently here with me.

 

[Marc mndt]

Do you find the bi-swing back provides any noticeable ease in range of motion?

The range of motion is good. Given that I have a 23" chest and these have a 22.5" ptp I'd say the gussets -even though they're not very deep- are definitely functional.

I'd be happy to hear your general impressions of the jacket

Build quality is good. I'd say similar to RMC. Leather is thinner than what RMC uses though. Thin but certainly not flimsy.

One thing that's important to know is that the upper sleeves might be narrower than what you're used to. This is not a jacket for guys with huge guns. Some variance there as well, sleeves on my black Californian are slightly wider than on the Havana.

 

[Observe]

The range of motion is good. Given that I have a 23" chest and these have a 22.5" ptp I'd say the gussets -even though they're not very deep- are definitely functional.

Build quality is good. I'd say similar to RMC. Leather is thinner than what RMC uses though. Thin but certainly not flimsy.

One thing that's important to know is that the upper sleeves might be narrower than what you're used to. This is not a jacket for guys with huge guns. Some variance there as well, sleeves on my black Californian are slightly wider than on the Havana.

View attachment 476753 View attachment 476754 View attachment 476755 View attachment 476756 View attachment 476757
View attachment 476764

Thanks again. What is your height? I'm about 6'4 and range from 190-200lb, with around a 42.5" chest. I find I'm a 40 or 42 in most jackets. I'm a long, slender guy which makes these older styles a tough fit for me, as I'm not the typical build of that era. Hard to get the length and width on point for me; if one is good then the other is off. One thing I do hope is that with the Long pattern that the placement of the belt and handwarmer pockets are adjusted proportionately, as the pockets in particular are quite high as it is, and would look rather silly with an extra inch added in length underneath them. I would like to add that I like that you have flattened out the front of the collar for a more "Italian" look to it, as opposed to the "M" shape that stock photos show.

 

[Marc mndt]

What is your height? I'm about 6'4 and range from 190-200lb, with around a 42.5" chest.

I'm 5'11 175 lbs

One thing I do hope is that with the Long pattern that the placement of the belt and handwarmer pockets are adjusted proportionately, as the pockets in particular are quite high as it is, and would look rather silly with an extra inch added in length underneath them.

Maybe @Carlos840 can chime in here, he owns a 42L

 

[Observe]

The guy from History Preservation got back to me and confirmed that the Long size in the Californian does not change the pocket placement, and that the length in the body is just added underneath. I'm afraid this would throw the proportions of the jacket off, which makes this jacket much less appealing to me. Still would like if anyone with a Long size in this could post to show what it looks like if possible.

 

[Monitor]

I have a schott jacket made of their steerhide, and it has a finish which I've seen many people here call plasticky (which I agree with). How long does it usually take for this finish to fade?

Going to tag @Monitor if that's ok, know you're the resident schott expert

I'm hardly an expert. I can't really tell you for sure, it all depends on the finish & how, when and where you wear your jacket but usually it takes from some two years to never for it to dull.

 

[Marc mndt]

I'm afraid this would throw the proportions of the jacket off, which makes this jacket much less appealing to me. Still would like if anyone with a Long size in this could post to show what it looks like if possible.

Here's pics of a size 38L. Proportions don't look off to me.

Too bad they don't show how it looks from the back when worn.

 

[navetsea]

is that leather supposed to be brand new predistressed/ washed leather or was that his personal jacket that has been "broken in" someway unnatural like bundled into a ball and seated on or something?

 

[Marc mndt]

is that leather supposed to be brand new predistressed/ washed leather or was that his personal jacket that has been "broken in" someway unnatural like bundled into a ball and seated on or something?

Good point, mine doesn't look anything like that. That's a pic from a stockist, should be a brand new jacket.

 

[Aloysius]

History Preservation appears to show them, but I'm not sure if anyone has any experience with that retailer, or how reliable their measurements are: https://www.historypreservation.com...fornian-vintage-style-half-belt-jacket-black/

HPA might be the only western stockist of this kind of clothing that I actually like, lol.

 

[Marc mndt]

Hard to get the length and width on point for me; if one is good then the other is off.

You might also want to check the Double Helix classic 1930s. The jackets are made in Japan yet suited for the western physique. Body length will probably work for you as they're longer than the ELMC. I'm not sure about the sleeve lenght though.

 

[newtojackets]

Has schott ever been known to use European sizing?

I’ve come across a schott (made in usa, not cheaper European variant) and it’s tagged as a size 48 but has a 22inch pIt, which sounds more like a 38 to me (albeit slightly big for a 38)

 

[Viking752]

Has schott ever been known to use European sizing?

I’ve come across a schott (made in usa, not cheaper European variant) and it’s tagged as a size 48 but has a 22inch pIt, which sounds more like a 38 to me (albeit slightly big for a 38)

I have been chasing Schott jackets for a few years and I found the same problem In fitment. I currently own 3 and they fit me as they should. Here’s what I gathered with a lot of research, depending on the decade determines the fit. The older patterns were cut for a smaller sized audience. Not sure when the patterns changed but my model 118 built in 2019 is very different than one built in the 90’s for example. Longer length and more generous in the chest and waist area. While still being the same tag size.

 

[newtojackets]

I have been chasing Schott jackets for a few years and I found the same problem In fitment. I currently own 3 and they fit me as they should. Here’s what I gathered with a lot of research, depending on the decade determines the fit. The older patterns were cut for a smaller sized audience. Not sure when the patterns changed but my model 118 built in 2019 is very different than one built in the 90’s for example. Longer length and more generous in the chest and waist area. While still being the same tag size.

So just trust the measurements not the size on the tag?

 

[Viking752]

So just trust the measurements not the size on the tag?

Yes

 

[Canuck Panda]

Has schott ever been known to use European sizing?

I’ve come across a schott (made in usa, not cheaper European variant) and it’s tagged as a size 48 but has a 22inch pIt, which sounds more like a 38 to me (albeit slightly big for a 38)

Could be Made in USA but for the EU market. Italian 48 is US 38. But I agree what Viking said above. Many brands change their fitting through out the years. So if just following the tag size on vintage stuff can be misleading, unless you know exactly when it was made and know what sizing they were then. Very confusing. But mostly just one up or one down.

I remember your Schott Perfecto. Don't over think it. It's perfect.