A Menswear PREDICTION

[Jovan]

... where did that come from?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I hope you're not going to tell me that that's all a lie too.

You mean the "windsor" spread? You had it right first time when you said he "popularised" the collar. Meaning that he was seen wearing it and then everyone else did.

As for the pointed collar coming back, i fear it will not happen in Britain. Though i have no beef with the omnipresent widespread (i have, and wear, a couple of them), i wish people would vary these things a bit. It gets boring. I just don't understand the impulse to own and wear the same style of shirt collar every day, and the same goes for tying knots.

bk

 

[FedoraGent]

It's rather funny that I should see this thread...

Marc and other Loungers,

It's strange that I should see this thread whilst looking for ideas on how to refresh my casual clothing collection. Recently, I was at one of my tailors for a fitting for the suit that I'm going to wear to our upcoming wedding. It's great, as some of you are know, to speak about fashion trends and your needs with a great tailor. Bespoke...alas is a beautiful thing and shouldn't be expensive...but I digress...my tailor told me that modern fashions are starting to head towards peak lapels and more 30's lapels. Case in point, this same tailor does all of the show clothing for Tom Waits. He also does all the clothing for Stanlee Gatti. In both cases, and ironically in mine...this tailor is starting to see some 30's fashion trends creep up within the last year. Therefore, I think that Marc has something there.

FG.

 

[Senator Jack]

I'm addicted to these shirts - 3 inch European Collar from Hemrajani/My Tailor.

Following the narrow/narrow - wide/wide composition, they seem to go better with Continental suits than they do DBs.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

i wish people would vary these things a bit. It gets boring. I just don't understand the impulse to own and wear the same style of shirt collar every day, and the same goes for tying knots.

I think this may be due to the fact that guys are told a collar/knot combo should be right for their face. Once they find the combo that works for them, they're inclined to stick with it as this is seen as the safe bet.

 

[Jovan]

Heh. I use the four in hand with little variance all the time. Maybe a half-Windsor once in a while.

 

[Dagwood]

my tailor told me that modern fashions are starting to head towards peak lapels and more 30's lapels. Case in point, this same tailor does all of the show clothing for Tom Waits. He also does all the clothing for Stanlee Gatti. In both cases, and ironically in mine...this tailor is starting to see some 30's fashion trends creep up within the last year. Therefore, I think that Marc has something there. FG.

Can you bring that tailor with you to Los Angeles?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Au Contraire. There are a many shirtmakers, a dozen in the U.S. alone, who are up to the task. In your neck of the woods, I would recommend Anto and Freddie Vandecasteele.

Thanks for those names, Tomasso!


Honestly, I've no doubt that they can make the collar if I give them the exact dimensions, show them pictures, and bring them a vintage collar to examine. However, I have little faith that such shirtmakers already offer a '30s collar model in their repertoire.


Where are the U.S. shirtmakers that can show me the '30s collar that I want, without my having to "train" them (and hence risk inaccurate results)?

.

 

[Tomasso]

However, I have little faith that such shirtmakers already offer a '30s collar model in their repertoire.


Where are the U.S. shirtmakers that can show me the '30s collar that I want, without my having to "train" them (and hence risk inaccurate results)?

.

Well, Anto is known for thier movie work so they could probably swing it without any handholding.

And, one of the Gamberts in NJ must have some old patterns as they've been in the biz since the 30's.

 

[FedoraGent]

Can you bring that tailor with you to Los Angeles?

The great thing is...I will be coming up to SF for business occasionally as I have an office in Santa Clara. So I won't need to, but he does come to LA occasionally so I'll be good. That, and he has a studio in West Hollywood.

FG.

 

[FedoraGent]

Can you bring that tailor with you to Los Angeles?

The other thing is that he has had a lot of younger "as in 20 somethings..." folks ask for the 30s styles as well... saw him yesterday.

FG.

 

[DavidVillaJr]

I predict the return of the Neru Jacket and cod pieces.

Worn together in a tasteful ensemble I hope....


Or maybe in coodinating fabrics and patterns?


Could be CAMEO-TASTIC!!

WORD UP!!!

dv

 

[Dagwood]

...folks ask for the 30s styles as well...

Does anyone know if shirts in the 30's and 40's usually had a pleat(s) in the back?

 

[Tomasso]

Does anyone know if shirts in the 30's and 40's usually had a pleat(s) in the back?

That would be a question for Marc Chevalier.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Did someone ring?


I've seen '30s dress shirts with no pleats, with side pleats, with a center box pleat, with gathered pleats at the yoke, and even a version from Oviatt's that had long multiple verticle darts (in the photos below). Great variety!

.

 

[Dagwood]

Did someone ring?


I've seen '30s dress shirts with no pleats, with side pleats, with a center box pleat, with gathered pleats at the yoke, and even a version from Oviatt's that had long multiple verticle darts (in the photos below). Great variety!

Thanks Marc! I knew you would come through.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I predict the return of the Neru Jacket and cod pieces.

Ah, a doubting Thomas!

I'm currently working in China where most of the outsourced mass-production is done and I can TELL you that Marc is correct in his prediction...

Well, well, well! [Gloats happily]


.

 

[Orgetorix]

I think this may be due to the fact that guys are told a collar/knot combo should be right for their face. Once they find the combo that works for them, they're inclined to stick with it as this is seen as the safe bet.

Maybe...but I'm more inclined to think it's because they just wear whatever they think is "in" at the moment.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Maybe...but I'm more inclined to think it's because they just wear whatever they think is "in" at the moment.

Agreed.

.

 

[carter]

Originally posted by Matt Deckard
I predict that black will take over in the fashion industry as the new black.

I'm sure it will, except that it'll be called "the new [whichever color was formerly the new black]."

.

It'l be called either 'Anthracite' or 'Carbon'.

I just love older threads.