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  1. Nick D

    Detachable Collar Shirts... from TM Lewin?

    I've taken to measuring collars to see their true size. Size 15 collars I've had have ranged from 15 to 16 1/2. Very frustrating when I've found a perfect collar that claims to be my size but is much too big.
  2. Nick D

    Ladies Spats

    My wife wears spats I made her (and I wear spats, too, men's ones). She wears them with skirts. They're low-calf length, but I'm going to make her a pair of knee-high ones as soon as I feel up to making a couple dozen keyhole buttonholes by hand.
  3. Nick D

    Making a 3 piece suit

    Whatever you get, I'd estimate high just in case. A double breasted waistcoat will take more than a single, mainly because of the lapels. If they're laid on with a lining backing this is reduced a bit. In any case, say 3/4yd of double width. I usually assume ~2yds for trousers and ~2 1/2 for...
  4. Nick D

    Black tie trousers

    The 30s trousers are very wide, and without the cuff would probably not work for formal trousers. I've got a photo of them made up. I got the fabric off eBay, though I don't remember the seller. It comes up from time to time.
  5. Nick D

    The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

    Yes, I saw the gimp, but the spacing made me think that perhaps it was intentional, giving two straight lines of stitches without the end. Also, they appear to be the same on each lapel.
  7. Nick D

    Show us your suits

    Full linings aren't unusual for the period, but partial linings were much more common than they are today. Cuffs often had a vent and sham buttonholes, or no vent but still with the sham holes. Also possible was for the first button or two to be functional but not the others. A short coat...
  8. Nick D

    Black tie trousers

    I believe Mr Tsua has done braid on trousers. Are you thinking of the 1940s EvaDress pattern? I'm going to use that one without cuffs for morning dress trousers.
  9. Nick D

    The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

    Thanks. That's an interesting treatment on the end of the buttonhole. Would you say it was made that way, without the fan at the end?
  10. Nick D

    Pinch Pleats

    Interesting look. Imagine if the line of the darts had been carried over to knife pleats on the patch pockets? Not something I've seen, but something I would imagine of some 1930s designers.
  11. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Thanks, David. I have made up a jacket and waistcoat from this fabric, but it was my first jacket so it has fit issues. I'll just wear them as odd trousers. As I posted above, I'll make them up as a suit in linen. They took about a week to make, maybe longer because I have less time to sew...
  13. Nick D

    Your complete 4-part country solution...

    How did this miss Marc's Holy Grail list??? And working leather covered cuff buttons!
  14. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Qirrel, is this jacket going to have square front quarters, or are you going to trim them before finishing the fronts? Do you have a scan of the draft? Bugsy, thank you! In the near future I'll use this pattern, with some alterations (wider, longer), along with a jacket and waistcoat out of...
  15. Nick D

    The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

    Outstanding suit. I like the colour combination, too. A detail question, is the top buttonhole on the trousers worked all the way through, or only through a facing to hide the top button? Also, could you provide a closeup of the lapel buttonhole?
  16. Nick D

    The Moustache

    If you're using Clubman it will, because it's water based. Most of the better waxes are beeswax and petrolatum so they withstand the water much better. Hndlebars (that's how it's spelled) is very water resistant, as is Firehouse.
  17. Nick D

    The Lounge's Best Vintage Suit Seller

    The thread is a place for male FLoungers to show and discuss projects, both sewing and otherwise, as a counterpart to the ladies thread in the Powder Room. I think the idea would be a place to post questions about and discuss tailoring and related topics, and perhaps the making and construction...
  19. Nick D

    Worth the tailor or for sale?

    It looks like the bagginess is more in the back than the front. An alterations tailor may be able to take it in at the back, sides, and side darts if it has any. Front darts would be a last resort because you'd have to put a donlon wedge into the canvas as well, but is still probably doable...
  20. Nick D

    The Moustache

    Akubra Man, I've been growing mine for over two years, and it is currently the longest it's been at 7.6" tip to tip as waxed here. In those two years I've ocassionally trimmed back the ends, usually only 1/8"-1/4" at a time to keep them even, but I've just been leaving it to grow lately.
  21. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Another finished project, a 1930s jacket pattern for an 8-year-old, which I made for my son. He's not 3 yet, but I have several vintage patterns for older children I'll make for him years in advance so he can grow into them.
  22. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Here's a project I finished a little while ago. A pair of plus-fours made from EvaDress pattern Sp20-3906. The pattern is from the '20s, so they're narrower in the leg and with less blousing over the knee than with 30s-era plus-fours. They have a cut-on rear fishtail waistband, back strap...
  23. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Excellent fabric, and I particularly like how you've matched the lining to one of the flecks. That's something I often do with linings. You can get little gizmos to make a fabric-covered button for the top as well.

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