Black tie trousers

[Edward]

Has anyone ever had someone run them up some trousers from a pattern, for black tie wear? I've just discovered that one pair of trousers I keep for black tie, which I was going to repaired (fraying on the hems) probably is at the end of its life (shiny bum syndrome, that well know killer). Shame - probably 1950s, but when they're done they're done.... So I'm keeping an eye out for some replacements. Toying with the idea of having a seamstress run me up a few pairs in black barathea (easily found), based on an Eva dress pattern or copying a pair I have. Just wondered if anyone has tried this and had success. Specifically, I wanted to know whether anyone has discovered some hidden problem I've missed in relation to attaching the side-trim??

 

[Two Types]

If you want old, heavy dinner suit trousers it's worth trying 'Savvy Row'. http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/types?q=Evening+Trousers&qf=1 They have lots of old dinner suit trousers in various sizes, including some larger sizes. The pair I bought had a label that looked very old, possibly pre-war but I couldn't be certain. I think they were £33. For that price, I assume it would be much cheaper than getting a pair made up.

 

[Edward]

If you want old, heavy dinner suit trousers it's worth trying 'Savvy Row'. http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/collections/types?q=Evening+Trousers&qf=1 They have lots of old dinner suit trousers in various sizes, including some larger sizes. The pair I bought had a label that looked very old, possibly pre-war but I couldn't be certain. I think they were £33. For that price, I assume it would be much cheaper than getting a pair made up.

Good point, I'll check them out. Just a little bit wary of vintage by mail as I've had to send a few things back in recent months. Really nice pair of white tie trousers arrived recently, described on eBay as "flawless".... turns out they've had a four inch triangle of material added in to widen the waist. This doesn't look bad in itself, but whoever removed the original stitching has made large holes in the fabric. I thought it was mothing at first!

 

[Two Types]

When I dealt with 'Savvy Row' the service was very good. I phoned him one day, and the next day the trousers arrived with me. They were exactly as described. I would recommend phoning him and asking about the trousers, he seemed very approachable. I think he points out flaws on the website.

 

[Edward]

Yes, they look to be much better that way than others. there are a few eBay sellers of whom I have learned to be wary!

 

[undertaker]

I bought my wool blend striped trousers from him and I have been very pleased with them. As a matter of fact, I am wearing them today with a solid black Jacket and waistcoat. For the price they are great.

Regards,
J.S.

 

[Chasseur]

I've had Indy Magnoli run up two sets of formal trousers for me, one for white tie to match a vintage tailcoat I found, and an identical one with a single stripe to wear with a white dinner jacket. They were able to match the material VERY close to the jacket. The only difference was the fabric while identical in weave and color/sheen was slightly lighter weight. They did an excellent job.

 

[Nick D]

I believe Mr Tsua has done braid on trousers. Are you thinking of the 1940s EvaDress pattern? I'm going to use that one without cuffs for morning dress trousers.

 

[Edward]

I bought my wool blend striped trousers from him and I have been very pleased with them. As a matter of fact, I am wearing them today with a solid black Jacket and waistcoat. For the price they are great.

Regards,
J.S.

What's the fit like on those? They look quite good, but I find so many modern production trousers too narrow on the thigh. I like 'em still to have a big of bagginess on the thigh when sitting down, not tightened up...

I've had Indy Magnoli run up two sets of formal trousers for me, one for white tie to match a vintage tailcoat I found, and an identical one with a single stripe to wear with a white dinner jacket. They were able to match the material VERY close to the jacket. The only difference was the fabric while identical in weave and color/sheen was slightly lighter weight. They did an excellent job.

Yes, I've considered that option, though I'm wary of having anything done at a distance in case measurements don't go quite right.

I believe Mr Tsua has done braid on trousers. Are you thinking of the 1940s EvaDress pattern? I'm going to use that one without cuffs for morning dress trousers.

Either that one or the thirties pattern, not sure yet - I've not seen the latter made up, so I don't really have an idea as to how broad they are. I have a pair of HeyDay Gallipolis that I love, but I think they're definitely too wide to look quite right with black tie.

Incidentally, on the matter of morning trousers, where did you find the cloth?

 

[undertaker]

Here is a picture of me wearing the striped trouser from Savvyrow. I don't know how much you can tell from the photo. Like I said I have been very pleased with them and wear them often. They are long rise. My only complaint, like most modern trousers, is that the zipper is a little short. There ia ample room in the seat and thigh and yet they are not too large at the ankle. I think I will not be quiting my job for a career as a model.

You can tell more about the pattern here.

Regards,
J.S.

 

[Edward]

Thanks, JS - those do look great. Not too skinny at all. My big bugbear with modern trousers is they tend to be too narrow and low on the waist - sounds and looks like these avoid either problem. Do the come with braces buttons? Are those button boots you're wearing, or am I mis-interpreting spats? Look good either way! I have my eye on a pair of Herring lace-up boots in black with black sued over black calf.

 

[undertaker]

Thanks, JS - those do look great. Not too skinny at all. My big bugbear with modern trousers is they tend to be too narrow and low on the waist - sounds and looks like these avoid either problem. Do the come with braces buttons? Are those button boots you're wearing, or am I mis-interpreting spats? Look good either way! I have my eye on a pair of Herring lace-up boots in black with black sued over black calf.

They did not come with buttons for braces but that is easily fixed. These were new and cost right at 50 pounds (about $75.00 USD). I knew of a Funeral Home near here where the employees all wore black Swallow tail coats and black waistcoats with striped ties and hickory stripe trousers sadly that tradition ended when "Papa Rose", the owner, died (seems he was almost 100), but I have always admired the old "uniform" and sort of tried to recreate it. These were the closest I could find to their trousers. About the shoes...those are spats in the first picture. That was before I looked through the mail and found the button boots had arrived today. I was just trying them on. They come from Indy Magnoli and are just wonderful. I have black lace ups but I thought the contrast was neat and they don't make the noise the spats do.., The spats "squeak" and drive me up a wall. I have also been admiring some lace-ups that are tweed over black calf.

Regards,
J.S.

 

[Nick D]

Either that one or the thirties pattern, not sure yet - I've not seen the latter made up, so I don't really have an idea as to how broad they are. I have a pair of HeyDay Gallipolis that I love, but I think they're definitely too wide to look quite right with black tie.

Incidentally, on the matter of morning trousers, where did you find the cloth?

The 30s trousers are very wide, and without the cuff would probably not work for formal trousers. I've got a photo of them made up. I got the fabric off eBay, though I don't remember the seller. It comes up from time to time.

 

[Chrome]

Has anyone ever had someone run them up some trousers from a pattern, for black tie wear? I've just discovered that one pair of trousers I keep for black tie, which I was going to repaired (fraying on the hems) probably is at the end of its life (shiny bum syndrome, that well know killer). Shame - probably 1950s, but when they're done they're done.... So I'm keeping an eye out for some replacements. Toying with the idea of having a seamstress run me up a few pairs in black barathea (easily found), based on an Eva dress pattern or copying a pair I have. Just wondered if anyone has tried this and had success. Specifically, I wanted to know whether anyone has discovered some hidden problem I've missed in relation to attaching the side-trim??

I have old book about housekeeping and it says that shinyness of wool trousers can be lessened with mixture of winegar and water. Mild mixture was prefered but stronger solution could be done if results wouldn't be sufficient. If your trousers are gone otherwise what you have to loose? even bit of matt finish can be really good.