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Worth the tailor or for sale?

Chrome

One of the Regulars
Messages
252
Location
Hyvinkää, Finland
For some time I have looked plain black DB suit jacket and haven't come across one and now I'm quite tired of searching and want it now.

I've had this too big jacket and I thought to ask you is it worth of seamstress trip or better of selling and just waiting. My jacket is from fifties as I have jacket with similar buttons dated to 1957, it looks older style cut with vertical pleats. Cross between navy blazer and suit jacket, it's made in place where is canal :)
Because of it's propotions and the fact that it misses front dart, I think I can have some fashionable tricks to it like DB in this topic's AD. http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?36799

And next the pics damn hard to photo black flannel:
Front
IMG_7729.jpg


Back
IMG_7730.jpg



Little detail
IMG_7732.jpg


Lining
IMG_7738.jpg


On me:
IMG_7783.jpg


Tail:
IMG_7785.jpg
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Chrome, you could definitely add some darts of the type in the link... as long as you find an alterations tailor you can trust it shouldn't be too difficult (darts are easy to try out before stitching in permanently anyway). the back looks quite loose, but if you add front darts and take in the side seams a little it should work.

remember you can always undo the lining and/or side seams, try this stuff out with pinning or basting and if it's not working... sew the seams and lining back up again. easy. ;)
 

Nick D

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,166
Location
Upper Michigan
It looks like the bagginess is more in the back than the front. An alterations tailor may be able to take it in at the back, sides, and side darts if it has any. Front darts would be a last resort because you'd have to put a donlon wedge into the canvas as well, but is still probably doable. It's a nice jacket, and I understand how hard they are to come by. I finally found one that was mislabled as a dinner jacket so it flew under the radar and I got it for a song.
 

Chrome

One of the Regulars
Messages
252
Location
Hyvinkää, Finland
Thanks for the responses. Bagginess is in the front, it's so heavy that it pushes back side away. I took some more photos to view (as I should have done in first place).

Here is the Backside
IMG_7802.jpg


And from side
IMG_7799.jpg


Front piece comparison to one my other jacket
IMG_7801.jpg

As you can see front piece is much bigger (back seam to pocket, pocket to button)

Backside of the other jacket
IMG_7804.jpg


As you hopefully can see the backsides are nearly same (bit diiferent cutting style) but pieces are nearly identical in width. Bummer that jackets are black and you can't see seams of the striped jacket and my dog made that cardboard mess to the floor, not me :)
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Chrome, thinking about it again (as there's virtually nothing to lose from the back) the only way you could do it would be to take about 2 inches maximum off the side seam (front part only) and deepen the rear front dart.
you could add a dart to the front but darts are normally made before the pocket is cut, so a new dart would have to stop right at the top of the pocket which would limit how deep it could be before it puckered.
you could add a front dart that goes right off the bottom of the jacket, but it would have to be in front of the pocket (and you'd have to dart the canvas too, or rather, remove that amount from the canvas). jackets were made this way, but normally with the long dart as the rear one to make it less visible. a long dart in front of the pocket would be unconventional. you could also move the buttons a bit (provided there were no visible marks left underneath).

to be honest, it sounds like a lot of work.

edit: here's an illustration of the above options:


IMG_7799.jpg
 
Last edited:

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
it's not as hard as it looks.... i once had an alterations tailor take the arms off a jacket and move them in 3/4 of an inch each side, and narrow the whole body.
a few years later he had a nervous breakdown (not joking).
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
If you do that alteration, your jacket is going to end up with a chest like a coat from the mid 19th century. As the jacket is far (and i mean far) too big for you, the only real option is a recut, which requires knowledge of patterns and cutting, and is very expensive.

I noticed it has a label. Do you have a picture of it?
 
Last edited:

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Sell it. Doctoring it up will only serve to produced a relatively expensive piece of mediocrity.
 

Chrome

One of the Regulars
Messages
252
Location
Hyvinkää, Finland
Hmm... I guess you're right. Any buyers :D

I had one jacket altered and it came very great. I'm really happy with it. Jacket had and still has trousers but I didn't have those altered (too big operation). She is really good and have other alterations made since.

But for the jacket.

First it was previously altered from DB to SB. metal button and chalk mark is my doing for my mock up.
IMG_6990.jpg


Next is original skirt width, measurement was taken when I have marked new button placement. I moved them 3cm more apart from original positioning and still skrirt was 57cm wide
IMG_6954.jpg


Waist was 48cm with new button positions.
IMG_6956.jpg


Backpiece half width was 16cm roughly from waist
IMG_6964.jpg


New sizes are skirt 54cm, waist 45cm and back half is 14,5cm and reborn jacket is below

IMG_7787.jpg

IMG_7788.jpg

IMG_7790.jpg


Sleeves were taken in a bit, but I wanted to have it longer. Jacket is winter weight and with vest it easily keeps warm to near zero centigrade. Longer sleeve is nice with gloves. That new "project" is bigger challenge but I thought to ask :D
 

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