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  1. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    HBK, that jacket is superb.
  2. Nick D

    Mislabelled summer suit?

    The lapels don't appear to be faced with satin or other usual material for a dinner suit, nor is the jetting on the pockets which one usually finds on modern dinner suits with flaps. Also no trouser braid and the material is cotton. On balance I'd say that it's a summer suit, not an...
  3. Nick D

    Peak Lapel Overcoat

    Another vote for vintage. Picked up this gem in perfect condition for £25:
  4. Nick D

    Deodorant Question

    Tom's of Maine doesn't have Al.
  5. Nick D

    FS: two top hats, 1 black silk, one grey

    No easy answer to that. Since this one is mid-century it's worn a bit lower than ones from earlier, which can have an effect. All I can say is I do my best to give an accurate measurement instead of just a hat size.
  7. Nick D

    FS: two top hats, 1 black silk, one grey

    It's really 22". Silk toppers are constructed differently from felt hats and unfortunately can't be stretched.
  8. Nick D

    ebay.co.uk vintage pages gone awry ?

    Just noticed how they've split out some of the categories. Ugh.
  9. Nick D

    ebay.co.uk vintage pages gone awry ?

    The decade filters are still there, but there's hardly anything in them, most things are unspecified. It looks like they've re-formatted the subcategories. Possibly not as bad as the last time but it may take a week or so for the dust to settle.
  10. Nick D

    FS: two top hats, 1 black silk, one grey

    One day left on these toppers!
  11. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    High armholes allow for ease of movement without shifting the body of the jacket. It's one of the defining features of vintage and quality tailoring versus modern suits.
  13. Nick D

    Toppers Unite

    Thanks, gents! As requested:
  14. Nick D

    "The Chap" magazine

    I've gotten that, but I've never subscribed.
  15. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    After the earlier discussion I machine stitched the roll-line: Padstitched: Stretched and pressed: First try: You can see the bulge a bit more on the right. It was much greater when in wear and with the top-collar on. I cut the bottom edge of the fall (and fixed that left bridle!)...
  16. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Linen canvas. Thinking about it again I think part of the problem was I didn't lay the top collar on quite right, but even without it on I could see the slight bulge on the sides of the canvas. This is also the first time I've used a straight collar instead of a crooked one, but I don't know...
  17. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    The fabric is rippling, but it's the canvas, not the top-collar itself. I've re-cut the collar but haven't put the top collar back on yet.
  19. Nick D

    Summer Suits Advice/Opinion

    I have a tropical weight wool suit, I find it as good but no better than my linens. It doesn't wrinkle as much, though.
  20. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    And speaking of collars, I've been fighting with one all day. I've just basted on the top collar for a suit jacket and the collar just refuses to lay perfectly smooth on the sides. I think it's the depth of the fall, but I even trimmed it before I put on the top collar and thought it was...
  21. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I'll take a look tonight and put up a photo for comparison in the morning. My '50s tailcoat has the same collar construction as that blue one.
  22. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    The people I bought it from recently doubled the price. I'm using the last of what I have right now. That and collar canvas. I think the Lining Company still has decent prices, though, or they did the last time I looked.
  23. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    The commercially avaliable patterns reduce it to little more than dressmaking. Taped edges, padding, stays, full canvases, they're all replaced with quicker methods or abandoned.

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