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  1. Nick D

    Hats - tilt to left or right?

    Tilt to the same side as the hand that put on the hat (so usually the right). But the hat also follows the sun.
  2. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    I found some vintage heavy (22oz!) houndstooth fabric from the personal stock of a retired costuming tailor, and made up these trousers. The fabric even has a couple moth-nibbles. I used a curved metal trouser zip, proper brace-buttons, vintage-style sateen lining, and non-sew trouser hooks...
  3. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    Very nice work, Fastuni! Do you have any 'before' pictures of the fedora? I've brought a few hats back from the dead, it's always satisfying to turn something around like this.
  4. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Qirrel, I've gone through the grading book and it's perfect for grading down the front and back of the pattern. But he only gives grading sleeves from two patterns, not one! I'll either have to divine how to do it from what he does say or figure it out from another draft.
  5. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Thanks for the title, I haven't seen that one. I know how to grade but don't have much experience actually doing it, nor how to do a two-piece sleeve. I think I've gotten a good handle on the actual sewing, the next area I really (really) need to work on is fit, as with here, and more...
  7. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Cheers, gents. Fastuni, this fabric was indeed almost impossible to shrink or stretch. The next go will be better fabric. Qirrel, here's the pattern: I checked my chest measurement, and it's smaller than I thought. The last time I checked it had been 40", but now it's 37.5", so you're...
  8. Nick D

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    I'm thinking of making another suit, and I need to adjust the pattern I used when I made the blue one. In addition to re-drafting the collar and moving the roll line back a bit, there's too much fullness in the chest and shoulders. I didn't dart the canvas at the shoulder (mea culpa), but...
  9. Nick D

    Show us your suits

    It flares out, but again not a lot. Here's a couple (poor) photos of it on, though without a waistcoat. I just put it on over what I was wearing. It may be a possibility, but sometimes it's more trouble than it's worth. I have a lot of projects ongoing at the moment, not to mention work...
  10. Nick D

    Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

    I don't think there's really that much risk of that, there won't be that much tension and friction/trajectory would protect parts. For what it's worth, I've read (somewhere on the FL, I think) that if the stay is wrapped around the leg, say from back of the shirt to front of the sock or...
  11. Nick D

    Holy Grail of vintage suits

    Quite right, for some reason (possibly not enough coffee) I was remembering the other photos wrong.
  13. Nick D

    Holy Grail of vintage suits

    It looks like the belt is cinching them on to a small mannequin.
  14. Nick D

    Show us your suits

    The shoulders are not heavily padded, though they do not slope a lot. Now that I have it pressed out I'm wondering about the fit. It fits perfectly in the arms, shoulders, and length, but the waist is rather baggy, probably for a man my height but significantly more weight around the...
  15. Nick D

    Show us your suits

    I went into a local 'vintage' shop the other day, and found this sb stroller jacket for £18. This shop has very expensive tweed jackets and not-very-vintage, trendy stuff, and this went in the bargain bin. Any ideas on date and origin? My first thought was late '20s German. As found...
  16. Nick D

    Vintage German Double Breasted suit - 1920s

    Great button spacing. Interesting watch pocket, too. I suspect it's to make access easier with a closed double-breasted.
  17. Nick D

    Formal Wear Primer

    It was court dress.
  19. Nick D

    Oxford Bags

    My great-grandpa was a railroad man in rural Michigan, working in the yards. On the weekends he wore three-piece suits and spats.
  20. Nick D

    Crazy Lapels Suit - 1940's?

    The pattern matching is very poor, even in the 70s a tailor would have lined things up better. I'd say stage costume, probably for a stock spiv character. A theater company could get a lot of mileage out of that suit.
  21. Nick D

    Detachable Collars

    They don't look like c. 1900 collars, looks more like the '30s, probably, with the lower stand and the soft roll. They seem to be in very good condition.
  22. Nick D

    1930s Pinstripe suit - 3 piece - Ebay BIN £130

    I would have thought that was a regular.
  23. Nick D

    Ralph Lauren knit vest with patch pockets

    I like the first one best. I was watching a vintage four-pocket sweater vest on eBay that had the proper waistcoat-shaped front, but missed the end and it went for something like £4. It's why I don't usually wait for the last second to bid anymore.

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