I posted this over in the Mallory Mile, too, but thought I'd add it here.
A Mallory homburg, the felt is in excellent condition. The sweatband was shot so I bought a new roan leather sweat and sewed it in.
New sweat
I removed the old sweatband from the Mallory homburg I posted a few weeks ago and replaced it with a new roan leather sweat. The original was unreeded, but the new one is.
Before:
After:
This is the first time I've sewn in a sweat, so there were a couple false starts, but I got it on...
Update for the linen suit
Canvas and chest piece. The smaller piece has a dart on the long edge and slashes at the shoulder.
Covered with a piece of flannel and padstitched, as well as the lapels, taped, and the facings sewn on with the inside pockets.
Nearly completed fronts
And a poor...
Yes, the double breast pocket looks excellent with a tweed like this.
What about pleated front darts? It would require a welt breast pocket, but it's an idea.
Johnny O, there may be enough left over for a bowtie, especially if the seller really does cut as generously as described. I'll let you know. This first run is to determine just how much can be got out of a yard.
Thanks, Matt. I've got the canvases finished and need to baste them onto the fronts now.
GHT, that's a nice cabin! I really like the double doors. Any views of the interior space?
Given that DamianM first brought this up, I'll defer to him and suggest the first one be #13. It isn't the one I would choose for myself, though. Anyone else who likes #13, message here or PM me. If more than three are interested, we can get more yardage at the same time.
It takes about 3 hours to make a tie, I would request $30 labour for each tie. That covers the time and other materials needed besides the silk (thread and tie interfacing).
I would suggest an initial limited run, perhaps pick a silk, three people to cover the cost (one would be me for the...
Okay, here's the stats on my pattern, which is a McCalls from 1941. 1 yard of 24" straight cut material will yield two ties of 47" in length, constructed from two pieces. There is also a 45" long tie which is constructed from three pieces, to be made with the extra triangle of material that is...
I did up the mockup of the other pattern, and the fit is better. It's hard to tell the fit of a jacket with a muslin, though, since the fit and shape will be affected by canvas and padding. I'm not sure how well the back is going to turn out, either, but I think the only way to know for sure...
Well, the grading of the jacket did not go as well as hoped. I did a mockup, but it wound up being 42" in the chest (actual circumference). I've got another '40s pattern for a sportcoat that's a 38 chest, though I would have to work on the waist to get the profile I'm looking for.
I originally tried doing it with a rolled hem foot, but the end of an unlined tie must be much more precise. I roll by hand, press, and baste the hem before sewing.
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