Soldat, from what I have seen around this forum, Indy Magnoli can do it mail order, and Rocaca in London looks fairly good. But it depends what you mean by vintage, because that could cover anything from 1900 to about 1965 (others can correct me here). For what it is worth, my own experience...
I used to have starched collars, but found that it was very difficult to put a tie under them. The next best is detachable soft collars, which work out well given that collars are the first thing to go on a shirt. My father tells me that in London in the early 50s, wearing a soft collar to work...
This is an interesting question. We have to keep in mind that just as shops in the 80s were still selling 70s styles up until the mid 80s (flares, etc), at least they were in my home town, it is likely that 40s styles were being worn by people into the early 50ss. I think the best source might...
Yes, a black hat needs a certain kind of suit, or it looks out of place and too formal. Evening is probably the right time, with a black suit or tuxedo. It may seem extravagant to get a suit made just so as to wear a hat, but that might be necessary.
Brendan, I may try to get the pants enlarged, but will have to check how much cloth there is along the inside seams. While not bespoke, the suit was certainly made to last. If I pull at the arm seems, there is no daylight between the cloth edges. We need to remember that suits were everyday wear...
Thanks again. You are right, you get what you pay for. I might try eBay, just never bought shoes online before, and find that sometimes my usual size 9 is too small, and sometimes it is too big. Something to do with the shape of the shoes. This forum is a great place for advice, though.
Thanks for the advice regarding Stacy Adams. I checked online, and there is an Italian firm called Old Woogie, which makes replica shoes. The Magnoli shoes look great, but my wife and kids would probably not approve of the price. Have to start saving up!
On the subject of vintage, as opposed to modern suits, I have been checking some designs and wondering about gorges. In the picture attached, from the 49 Sears catalogue, the gorge looks quite low (the seam between collar and lapels is fairly low, and points diagonally, rather than...
Eddie, I think that suit turned out very well. I am curious; what is it about the button stance that you think is off? The trousers could have been a little wider in the thigh and knee, possibly, but overall it seems the tailor did a good job.
Brendan, like many other members here, you are a veritable mine of haberdashery data. The Donegal is a good weave, I think. Sterling Hayden wears a Donegal jacket in Kubrick's "The Killing", which was on TCM the other night.
Good for you, getting hold of those heavier jackets. I have just sent...
Yes. Indians retain some quaint phrases but they are not so common among the new generation. And you are right. "Axe" was at one time the correct word.
Thanks for the guidance. I checked the link that Frankposted and saw the Stacy Adams shoes. They look very well but I am suspicious of the price. I did not know that you can buy any shoes for under USD 200. Also I am a little cagy about ordering shoes online. Have any forum members bought Adams...
I checked the link. I think the trouble with "retro" is that it seems to be a commercialization of vintage, which seems to mean the genuine article, reused. I have checked "retro" shops and they seem more about costumes, though it is good to see fleck fabric being made and used.
BTW that...
I checked, and it seems everyone sells to the running metre, which means a bit heavier to the yard. It would also appear that the running yard was the standard back in the day, though some refer to the square meter. I take it that when one reads about 16 and 17oz fabrics in old tailors' books...
Brendan, tweed would appear to be a life long study. I regret to admit that I used to regard tweed as clothes made out of old horse blankets. That has changed, obviously, in part on account of all you fellows on this forum. There are so many kinds, and it seems that only Harris has actually...
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