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  1. P

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Note to the above, even Harrisons of Edinburgh lists flannel as follows: Flannel Worsted (01-35) and Woollen (36-55) Flannels 150cm wide 11-13ozs 340-400gms 100% All Wool They do not specify the oz / grams are per square metre or running metre.
  2. P

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Not sure if this is the right thread, but I have been reading up on vintage cloth weights (seems to be about 15 to 17oz for suits). I checked with some of the ebay sellers, and they weigh by the running meter. Even accounting for the difference in meters and yards, this makes what they call a...
  3. P

    What to look for?

    Just my two cents: What I have found in London charity shops is almost all 80s onwards, and nearly not worth the discounted prices. I regret not buying more back in the 80s, when thrift shops in my home town even had old coats from the 1890s. But one can find vintage ties and in London, some old...
  4. P

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Gentlemen, thank you all. HBK, I intend to. Rabbit, you are right. Trouble is my old tailor retired to the Philippines and his protégé died, so I was cast adrift, you might say. Now on the next attempt, after two, one of which was not bad, and one of which was hopeless. So this is number...
  5. P

    The Vintage Tailoring Thread

    Gentlemen, a question here from a beginner: what do you tell the tailor in order to get the back of the suit to achieve a perfect shape (no creases, bulges, pulls) and yet not so tight that it prevents the arms from moving easily, and sits on the neck? Is it the size of the arm holes that does...
  6. P

    Show off the sports coats.

    Rabbit, I am getting into the habit of bowing to your knowledge. Good old rayon -- the types of wool have changed as well, haven't they. Seems a pity, as the atomic fleck is quite unique, and to my mind the most indicative of the US 50s style. I think a mill has to make 3,000 yards in a run, so...
  7. P

    Preshrinking before taking to the tailor?

    Thank very much for the advice. Much appreciated. I wouldn't wash a made suit, but thought of soaking the cloth to preshrink it. A friend brought me back a bolt of preshrunk gabardine from Bombay some years ago, sold by Raymond's which is quite a well known brand of fabric over there. It had and...
  8. P

    Show off the sports coats.

    Gentlemen, checking through the back posts on this thread, I am astounded at the 50s jackets and the radical atomic fleck and innovative pseudo tweed fabrics back then. I used to own some in the 80s, which I bought for very little as a student, but invariably traded them in for 20s and 30s...
  9. P

    Spectator Shoes

    Just joined last week, and noticed this interesting thread. What is the difference between two-tone saddle shoes and spectators? And which current spectator brands offer the best value for money? I have a pair of new Florsheim spectators in brown and light tan, but the shape of the shoe is...
  10. P

    Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

    Sorry Rabbit, Barleycorn pattern, twill weave. I checked that link that you provided, and emerged slightly punch drunk with information. Thanks for the advice about tweeds / jacketing. I have noticed what you wrote about stiffness in the cloth, and always thought that old fabrics were stiffened...
  11. P

    Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

    Thanks , I just found one similar, called Barleycorn weave. It was listed at Yorkshire Fabrics, I think, under "Jacketing". Now on a related note I saw that material sold as "Jacketing" is too soft for trousers as it bags easily. Any experience with that?
  12. P

    Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.

    I wonder if any members can identify the type of weave in the attached image. My grandfather had a jacket in that weave, and I have been looking for the material.
  13. P

    How much cloth is required to make a suit?

    Rabbit I once met a man in Jer icho on a hot July day must have been about 130F and he was wearing an undershirt, a kandoura (long cotton robe) a waistcoat and matching jacket in brown thick wool with a white pin stripe. It is not the cloth that heats you up but the motion. Sir in the shade and...
  14. P

    Preshrinking before taking to the tailor?

    Not sure if this is the right topic for a new thread, but seeing as there was not a thread already that seemed suitable, I took the liberty. I have read that before taking new fabric to a tailor, one should preshrink it by soaking it in cold water for a few hours. Does this sound like good...
  15. P

    "A Scent of History"

    I would have to agree with just about all the above: pipe smoke, leaded gasoline, kerosene from stoves in our rooms during the winter, and furniture polish -- that is one that I really haven't smelled for a long time. In Canada, bonfires, because in Victoria they are illegal now. Also old stone...
  16. P

    What is the Golden Era to you?

    Just my two cents worth, and pardon me, because I am new here. I happened on this thread, and I had never thought about the question hitherto. I would reckon the golden era could have been from about 1920 to 1960. I know the lady Lizzie reckons on a two year period in the 30s, and concerning...
  17. P

    Terms Which Have Disappeared

    Thanks Frank, sadly, the forum is addictive, and I sit here at work strolling through old posts. Never knew there were so many people out there with the same interests as me, and so much knowledge.
  18. P

    LizzieMaine on TV

    Just watched the video. I am new on this forum. An interesting investigation, and some rare knowledge there.
  19. P

    30's Gentlemen's Etiquette

    Good for you, Rue, nothing generational about it. Just the way things are supposed to be.
  20. P

    Terms Which Have Disappeared

    Hi Everyone, I am new on this thread. Must be my age, but I or my close relations and friends use just about all the quaint phrases all of you have been posting. Plus one or two more. I never thought about all the curious terms that we must be uttering daily, but may notice them more now. I get...

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