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  1. A

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Military sheepskins are Five Star's "sure thing", I think. The military jackets based on originals are their best patterns by a wide margin (not least because the pattern was already made, essentially), but the cow and horse hides seem to have a lot of inconsistency to them. The goatskin too...
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    Another Schott in Shinki, this one looks good!

    They can’t win lol. If this were made in Japan with 16” shoulders and a 44” waist, people here would be lining up to buy it, calling it a rare reproduction etc. It’s always “why can’t everything be a 613 or 141?” when those are just two of many models and even as someone who owns multiple 613s...
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    Another Schott in Shinki, this one looks good!

    Those models without the belt end up just having a ton of empty space. It’s the Instagram influencer fashion to show how tough and manly they are by cutting off the belts/epaulettes on their Perfectos; just ends up looking bad imo. To go beltless it needs to be a design that‘s build around it...
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    Another Schott in Shinki, this one looks good!

    Poor Schott. TFL: “Another missed opportunity. Why does Schott keep modernizing the jackets with special leathers? They should do a straight repro instead, then we’d buy it.” Schott: *does a straight repro of a 30s/40s aviator as the new collab, including the box pleat bi-swing* TFL: “Why...
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    RESOLVED - Identifying RMC J-24 BJ9111 vs BJ21101

    Why are you selling rather than just exchanging?
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    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Actually, at the height of TFL’s Aero-bashing phase (which lasted about three years, and led me to get an Aero as an act of rebellion), the sentiment was that 5* is better than Aero because stitch count or something, lol.
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    Five Star Leather Jackets

    Eh, I tend to reserve language like that for something like the $2000+ jackets with the tiny chests and giant flared hems, not for anything accessible.
  9. A

    Branded Garments questions (and answers) thread

    Is this the same type? https://www.ebay.com/itm/315003188885
  10. A

    Five Star Leather Jackets

    You’re misunderstanding. 3D in this case doesn’t refer to using a CAD tool for designing patterns in 3D. That’s completely unrelated to the discussion. It refers to taking into account the dimensions and contours of the wearer when designing and cutting the pattern. This is a crucial skill...
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    Another Schott in Shinki, this one looks good!

    The interesting thing about the Conmar use that so many of us are excited by: they use Conmars on everything! They just don’t use the Conmar marked pulls.
  13. A

    Another Schott in Shinki, this one looks good!

    IMO the sizing tool on their site is more useful than a measurement list.
  14. A

    Equus Leather has gone out of business

    They were mostly MTO weren’t they? I was happy to hear that another similar firm (Chester Jefferies) has survived, just as an OEM manufacturer of gloves rather than direct to consumer. I do want to write them asking if they’re allowed to disclose who can sell their gloves.
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    Another Schott in Shinki, this one looks good!

    The odd thing is their standard collection 1930s aviator has the side adjusters on the half-belt. I disagree actually. (Though I thought so too and paid the price.) I wish I’d gone longer on my aviator. They’re double breasted like motorcycle jackets but I think in every other respect they’re...
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    What do you look for in a Custom / Bespoke / MTO / MTM jacket?

    How come you didn't size up one? The PTP only goes up by 1" per size.
  17. A

    Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

    It's really beautiful. I took some photos of it at the factory earlier this year but haven't taken the stuff off my camera's memory card. I'm curious if the brown core version is just a different treatment of the same leather.
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    What do you look for in a Custom / Bespoke / MTO / MTM jacket?

    It's amazing how clearly the 618 blows the others out of the water there. The issue with the PER line is that the alpha sizing makes it impossible to dial in the sizing in most cases. The M is usually pretty close to (though not exactly) a 40 in the corresponding jacket, but the S is a bit...
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    Godzilla Minus One

    Really quite a stunning film, set in late 40s postwar Japan. Incredible performances and excellent, era- and character-appropriate costume design. A must watch. The US cinema run has been extended (originally planned for just a few days) and it comes out in the UK this weekend. Go see it!
  21. A

    A cheaper alternative to these leather pants?

    There are two factors. Lambskin, because it's so thin, can be sewn on a normal sewing machine like a fabric, so that's one big savings in capital and labor. And then Vanson goes above and beyond simply machining their leather into jeans; because they are a motorcycle safety equipment company...
  22. A

    Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

    Comp weight has a brown core now, it seems. At least some batches. New photos of the Chopper on Vanson's site show the grainy hide I saw earlier this year, but look at the belts; brown core instead of dyed-through black.
  23. A

    A cheaper alternative to these leather pants?

    I thought the other pair (the Traveler) would be more your style, given the Woodstock are boot cuts with a slight bell bottom. As for the leather, both are good. The Firenze is a thinner and thus perhaps drapier than the comp weight, however the comp weight is plenty supple and soft itself so I...

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